Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt
Wednesday 26th of June
05.54 After finishing the work of the spring term and having a number of days of peace and quiet with the parents in a Swedish summer environment, it is now time for this year's summer trip. Everything necessary is packed and within just over an hour I'm traveling south. In addition to the luggage, this year I also carry a catheter with me to ensure that I can both take in and empty fluids during the trip. This is because my enlarged prostate has complicated it for me. It is important to be on the safe side during a long journey.
06.55 The first transport from Skulnäs into Örnsköldsvik went well. I hope today's second transport continues in the same way.
07.16 Everything is going well. My train from SJ takes me and the rest of the passengers south.
08.19 I don't know if I'm awake or asleep. The truth is probably that I am sleeping my way to the south.
09.12 At the railway station in Sundsvall, Christer has joined the train with his backpack and a Piggelin ice cream that SJ offered outside on the platform. I too have been offered an ice cream with but have declined. We are now rolling out of Sundsvall.
11.11 Our train has stopped in Gävle. Various topics are discussed in the cart, everything from what level they are at, when they will arrive and other interesting things. In any case, it is interesting for those involved.
12.31 So we are back in the airport environment at Arlanda airport. This time we are sitting outside the entrance where you used to enter the practical Rest and Fly accommodation. We have some time to kill before we eat and check into our accommodation.
13.16 We are currently drinking coffee at Espresso House in SkyCity. We make purchase plans and tinker with little else. We're going to have some kind of breakfast early tomorrow morning.
13.39 During the coffee break, Christer struggled to log in, check in for tomorrow's flight with Norwegian. The problem was if there was a zero, 0 or an O in the check-in code. Once logged in and checked in, we were informed that a seat was not possible. We hope this applies to requests about where we want to sit. We don't want to stand all the way to Budapest.
14.04 After the coffee, Christer, while I am writing this, will now check the selection regarding breakfast at 7 Eleven.
14.50 We are back at the Barino restaurant in SkyCity. It's time again to eat pizza here. We also visited the restaurant before the flight to Athens in December. It's a bit simple and boring, but we need food. There are plenty of other people who eat here.
21.00 It is now time to see if Cristiano Ronaldo gets to score in this tournament. How long will Georgia hold out? Also, how is the second match between Turkey and the Czech Republic going?
Thursday 27th of June
Peter leaves Örnsköldsvik.
Christer walks through Sundsvall.
Peter has reached Arlanda.
Coffee break at Espresso House.
Beer and pizza at Barino.
Peter is waiting for the bus at stop 4.
Football night in room 212.
05.18 We experience yet another early morning at this hotel. The night has been long, at least it felt that way. How long will the coming day be? It is now time to freshen up and fix the purchased breakfasts.
06.05 Now we have hopefully packed everything and done what needs to be done. Soon we will return to the airport first on foot and then by bus. 06.27 The minutes flew by for us. All of a sudden there was almost no time left. Now we wait for the yellow free bus at the Flygskolan stop. Look, there it is! In fact, there are actually two in a row coming. 07.03 We are now inside the airport. It was not possible for us to print the luggage tags for the backpacks. However, this was arranged at the baggage drop/check-in instead. Now we aim and move towards gate C39. 07.32 Our gate was far away. Are we really still at Arlanda? When did the airport get this big? At least now we are on board Norwegian's Boeing B737, which will take us to Budapest, Hungary.
A simple breakfast at Forenom Aparthotel.
Forenom Aparthotel, next door to the Customs authority.
We fly over Lake Ekoln, north of Sigtuna.
Szentendrei-sziget, an island just north of Budapest.
A railway bridge across the Danube.
Our plane descends over a residential area in northern Budapest.
08.29 It's no luxury and no flair, but this flight works as a journey to another part of our world.
09.37 Flying has been smooth. Now we have started the approach towards Budapest. We have seen the Danube below us. Once down there, we will pick up the luggage and arrange to get into the city in a smooth manner. We flew here with Ryanair during Good Friday last year when we were on our way to Romania but then we settled for an overnight stay in a suburb. Today we are going into the city center.HUNGARY
10.13 Now we are on the ground again and have reached the first stop outside Sweden on this trip. We have landed at Budapest Liszt Ferenc Nemtzekozi Repülőtér (Budapest-Ferenc Liszt International Airport). As I said, shortly we will collect the luggage. The flight here went well.
10.46 With the luggage retrieved and next to us, we take a break to get something to eat at Camden Food Co. Here we have managed to take over one of the few free tables. After this, the next move will be to take us towards the center.
The first flight of the summer has ended.
Coffee time at Camden Food Co.
We take bus 100E towards the center of Budapest.
We're going to have lunch at Madhouse.
Christer has documented the lunch consisting of Mad Burger and Hazy Cocaine IPA.
Szent István Bazilika (Saint Stephen's Basilica).
11.05 We have some experience of going by bus from this airport because we did it just over a year ago. Then we went a shorter distance to the metro station Kőbánya-Kispest. Now we will take another bus line that will take us into the heart of the city.
11.12 Bus 100E is boarded. Tickets were bought on board. A woman assisted at a machine where you paid with your bank card. I'm sitting once again for a seat for disabled passengers, although maybe you're allowed to do that when you're traveling with a catheter? 12.05 We have visited Budapest on several occasions during our travels. During the interrail era, we visited here in 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004. We also completed an Easter trip in 2010 in the city. We got off bus 100E at the terminus at Deák Ferenc tér square and then walked down a side street where we found Madhouse Bistro & Craft Beer Bar (https://madhousebudapest.hu). Here we have sat down at their outdoor seating and ordered hamburgers (Mad Burger). To this we of course drink beer, an IPA called Hazy Cocaine. It is brewed by Mad Scientist, a brewery here in Budapest. 12.34 It was a wise and good lunch choice, a perfect start to the journey's meals. It wasn't cheap, but we were centrally located in the city and both the food and drinks were of high quality. During the meal, bicycle messengers from Wolt and Foodora pedaled past us. Budapest is the capital of Hungary and consists of Buda on the west side of the Danube and Pest on the east side. In total, the city has 1,780,391 inhabitants. 12.59 Satisfied and full, we take a bench break near the metro station Arany János utca. On the way to the bench, we passed Szent István Bazilika (Saint Stephen's Basilica). In an hour, check-in opens at the hotel, which is a quarter of an hour's walk away. We can probably check in earlier as well, but the easiest thing is to get there at the specified time. 13.47 The walk continued to the small back street Kresz Géza utca near the Nyugati railway station. It was just fine to check in early at Hotel Metro (https://hotelmetrobp.hu). In addition, they offered sweets at the reception. Now we're going to relax and rest in room 302.
Peter rests in room 302.
Hotel Metro, Budapest.
Boats along the east bank of the Danube.
We walk on Margit hid (Margareta bridge).
A map of Margitsziget (Margareta Island).
Christer films the boat traffic on the Danube.
16.03 Enough, we relax. This is vacation. We have rested for an hour or so and are listening to P4 Radio Jämtland via Christer's mobile. Not much is performed. It is not just laziness that is behind this behaviour. We were up early this morning and it's starting to show now.
17.14 We'll probably do a little more today, even though we have a full day here in Budapest tomorrow. There is a city to see and we will also buy breakfast as the only breakfast offered here at Hotel Metro is information about a cafe nearby. 17.30 We have left our hotel and tonight's plan is to get to the Danube, a walk of just over a kilometer from our hotel. 17.42 We have walked along the street Szent Istvan Körút and have now arrived at the bridge Margit hid. Here we have a fantastic view of the great river Danube. 17.54 After many years of break and absence, we are back on Margit-sziget (Margaret Island). It is 2,5 kilometers long and is beautifully located in the Danube. The island is a lovely oasis for the people of Budapest. Here there are beautiful parks, bathhouses and great opportunities to exercise through running and other activities. The island got its name from the saint Margaret of Hungary who lived in the 13th century. 18.46 We have walked around the island, photographed and rested on some benches. We just saw the fountain we saw here back in 2001. Out on the Danube, long barges and tourist boats pass us by.
Beautiful flowers in the park area of Margitsziget.
The Centenáriumi Emlékmű monument and various bicycle vehicles for rent.
View towards the Danube and the Parliament of Hungary.
The sculpture of Imre Nagy and tributes to him.
Christer has received his food from Tóth kocsma.
Peter eats the first Hungarian dinner.
19.20 Once back on the Pest side, we saw the sculpture by Imre Nagy among bouquets of flowers in a small park. We also saw it on our last visit in 2010. Imre Nagy was one of the leaders of the Communist Party in Hungary after World War II, but he criticized the Soviet Union's control of the country. In the Hungarian Revolt of 1956, the new pro-Soviet government tried to get him to resign as Prime Minister, but he refused. It led to his imprisonment and later execution in 1958.
19.38 We have now sat down at the Tóth Kocsma restaurant to eat the first Hungarian dinner on this trip. We sit at wooden tables down in a basement. Just now our ordered beer, Borsodi IPA, arrived. 21.07 Satisfied we walked through a light rain back to the hotel. On the way we stopped at the Spar supermarket. We have bought evening beer and morning breakfasts there. 22.08 Our or rather the room's kettle has arranged for us to have a traditional evening coffee. The trip has begun for real and we feel ready to experience as much as we can of Budapest tomorrow. 23.30 We taste one of our evening beers and take it easy in the room. Evening beer is an old tradition on our travels but has become more important since we started reviewing beer on the app Untappd. Christer plays music from 1974 from one of his playlists on Spotify and I try, without much success, to guess the artist. It was actually me who chose music from that particular year. It went well at first, but then it became difficult.
Tóth kocsma, tonight's dinner restaurant.
Friday 28th of June
08.53 We have slept the first night of two here at Hotel Metro. We are exhausted and soon ready for a full day in Budapest. Everything begins with a self-composed breakfast here in the room.
09.44 What makes you reluctant to leave the room? There is nothing dangerous or difficult out there. On the contrary, there is a fantastic European capital waiting for us out there. The room is not so fantastic that we want to stay here. No matter what. Now we finally go out. 10.07 On the way to the nearby Nyugati railway station, a cabin bag came rolling towards Christer on a flight of stairs. Once inside the station, we bought our 24-hour cards for public transport here in the city. 10.19 A little unexpectedly, we have seen a sculpture representing the American TV detective Columbo and his dog. The sculpture stands on the street Falk Miksa utca. The actor Peter Falk who played Columbo had a Hungarian background. 10.37 Now we are mostly just fine. We are so slowly making our way on foot through the Hungarian capital. 10.43 During our first small bench break, I took the opportunity to withdraw a small amount of forints from an ATM. In the meantime, Christer has downloaded MAV's train app. Now we don't need machines or ticket booths to buy train tickets. With all this done we are now ready to proceed. 10.54 I am now sitting in the shade of the beautiful Hungarian Parliament, Országház. A guide just passed us. I understood the year to be 1956. Presumably there was talk of the Hungarian Revolt. It was then that the Hungarians tried to throw off the Soviet yoke.
On Falk Miksa utca stands the TV policeman Columbo with his dog.
Equestrian statue of Prince Ferenc Rákóczi at Kossuth Lajos tér.
Országház, the Hungarian Parliament.
View towards the Danube and Buda.
Jewish shoes by the Danube, a memorial to the victims of World War II.
We took the metro to Széll Kálmán tér.
11.02 In the Hungarian heat (today +31°C) we have moved around the parliament building to photograph and admire the building. We have now sat down to rest and cool down a bit.
11.19 We left the parliament to make our way down to the Danube. In front of us on the quayside stand about forty pairs of metal shoes. It is not a Cinderella convention but a memorial to remember the Jews who were shot nearby during the war years of 1944 and 1945. In English, the memorial is called Shoes on the Danube Bank. It is a simple but beautiful tribute. Several murders on the Danube took place in December 1944 and January 1945 in the final stages of World War II and with the Red Army advancing on Budapest, after the German occupying power installed a Hungarian Arrow Cross regime in power. Members of the Arrow Cross police force Nyilas seized as many as 20,000 Jews from the newly established and nearby Budapest ghetto and executed them on the docks. 11.45 Now we have taken the metro two stations. We got on at the Kossuth Lajos tér station by the Parliament and continued to the Buda district on the other side of the river. We are at the Széll Kálmán tér station and according to a thermometer it is currently +30˚C here. It is time for us to revisit the castle hill in Buda. 12.02 It is foolish to burn our candles at more than one end. We have therefore taken a bench break on our climb up Buda's steep slopes. We are sitting outside the Bécsi kapu, a city gate also known as the Vienna Gate. 12.09 We witness drama from our bench. A white car drove into a crossing street and touched an orange car. A small thump was heard. The only damage we can perceive from our bench some distance from the accident site is that the white car has lost its front license plate. The two drivers are currently standing and discussing the whole thing with each other. 12.25 We got up and walked past the vehicles. A small amount of damage was noted to the orange car's right rear fender. Now we cool off near Matthias Church, which in Hungarian has a slightly more complicated name, Budavári Nagyboldogasszony-templom. The lunch cravings have started to set in and it's still hot. 12.55 We didn't go to the café we first intended to investigate. Instead, we are at Spíler Biergarten (https://spilerbiergarten.hu), a nice place that we suddenly found. We recently ordered pizzas of different flavors and draft beer of the same variety (Pécsi Pils). It's less hot here in the shade.
Outside the Bécsi kapu (Vienna Gate).
Fortuna utca, Buda.
Szentháromság tér outside Matthias Church.
Fisherman's Bastion (Halászbástya).
Peter visits Spíler Biergarten.
Statue of Szent István (Saint Stephen).
13.36 After a good lunch, we are now ready to see some more of the upper parts of Buda. Sure, there's more to see than this, but how much do we fit into a day? We opt out of the castle, which is significantly further away.
13.51 So we were back at the beautiful Fisherman's Bastion (Halászbástya), a 19th-century fortress with seven lookout towers. From here there is a fantastic view towards the Danube and Pest. I don't know if it's the heat or lunch but I'm lethargic. Maybe it's a lack of caffeine? 14.15 It's time to head home for a little afternoon siesta. First we will get to the metro at Batthyány tér, then change lines before continuing with the metro towards the hotel. 14.49 We are back at home in the lightly cleaned room at Hotel Metro. The garbage is gone and the sheets are stretched, In addition, we have received two new coffee tubes with mulatto coffee, our name for instant coffee with powdered milk. 16.06 According to the radio news, the health care strike at home is over. The parties must have reached a new agreement. We have not listened to Hungarian news but in Swedish via mobile. 17.04 There is little activity from us this afternoon as well. There are some plans for the evening. Things must be seen, goods must be purchased and other things must also be done. As I said before, we don't want to burn out the candles too quickly. After all, there are 44 days left to travel this summer. 17.25 It's time to go out for the evening's adventure. The plans include various activities and attractions here on the Pest side.
View towards Pest.
The stairs below the Fisherman's Bastion.
Christer in the Budapest metro.
Hősök tere (Heroes' Square).
An azeri gift at Hősök tere.
Pedal boat on Lake Városligeti-tó.
17.44 So we're on our way in the city's metro system again. There is plenty of heat and lots of people in motion.
18.05 The two metro journeys ended at the Keleti railway station. Here we have bought train tickets for tomorrow's journey east. Now the evening escapades continue. 18.37 Now we are here, Christer said. Yes we are, I confirmed. Here is on a bench near Hősök tere (Heroes' Square). It was tough to get here. The metro line M1 has cramped old carriages and stops frequently. It takes some time. 19.06 The main square, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was crossed. Here are statues of the chiefs of the seven tribes that founded Hungary. A little unexpectedly, we found a gift from Azerbaijan in front of one of the monuments. We have now sat down in Városliget (City Park) in front of a small lake (Városligeti-tó). Out in it is the name of the city and pedal boats go around. Behind us is the Vajdahunyad Castle, a beautiful building from 1896. A little further away, a larger balloon floats. Who rides around in it? 19.32 On the way to the metro, we have taken a shortcut in front of Széchenyi furdő, the famous bath where you can see pictures of men playing chess in the pools. 19.43 So we are back in the metro system. This time the train set is yellow. There are Swedes in the carriage, two different groups apart from the two of us. 19.55 After a line change to a more modern train on the M3 line, our journey towards food and home continues.
Vajdahunyad Castle in Városliget.
Summer evening in Városliget.
A balloon flies over Budapest.
Széchenyi spa, Budapest.
Christer's Slovak dinner.
Christer visits Szlovák Söröző.
20.19 Tonight we eat out in two ways. We are partly in a restaurant and we are sitting outside along the street at Szlovák Söröző, a Slovak restaurant on Bihari János utca near our hotel.
21.21 That was really good. We drank Czech beer and ate delicious Slovak dishes. I rounded it all off with an espresso. On the way home, like yesterday, there was a stop at the Spar store. Now we are back home and will take it easy. 22.04 It's time to start the kettle. The evening meal must be prepared. 23.07 After the good coffee, it's sör, the Hungarian word for beer. The Hungarian beers have gotten significantly better since we were last in the country. Long live small microbreweries. 23.51 A content-rich day in Budapest comes to an end. We have managed to see a lot today, but of course not managed to see everything this city can offer.
Saturday 29th of June
08.50 After another good night's sleep at Hotel Metro, we will start preparing for a further train journey through Hungary.
09.41 Are we really ready to travel on from Budapest? Are we able to move? We have to take it so slowly. It is early in the journey and the older we get, the longer it takes to get the seasoned travel machinery going. 10.06 The journey from Budapest has begun. With two newly bought metro tickets, we travel towards Keleti railway station. Unfortunately our 24 hour pass had just expired so we had to pay single tickets for this trip. There will be a change from line M3 to M2 along the road. The exchange takes place at Déak tér. 10.37 Arriving at Keleti pályaudvar (East station) we went to track 6 and boarded today's above ground transport. The Hungarian trains feel new and fresh, far from what we remember from our interrail years. Before we got on board, Christer went into a small kiosk to buy a drink. However, he was not welcome as they were receiving a delivery. Now from inside the train, we see that it is all right to shop there all of a sudden. 11.30 After rolling from Budapest through the Hungarian greenery and countryside, we have stopped at the station in Máriabesnyő. It was a short stop. We are already on our way. 12.31 We have stayed in Füzesabony. Here we turn off from the larger railway to the east and will continue for a while further north. 12.38 Fantastically beautiful sunflower fields pass outside our train window. This is something we remember from previous Hungarian train journeys.
Keleti pályaudvar (East station), Budapest.
Peter is ready for a Hungarian train journey.
The train stops in Kál-Kapolna.
Sunflower fields are a common sight in Hungary.
We have arrived in Eger in northern Hungary.
We take a shortcut through the Érsekkert park.
13.10 We arrive at the small railway station in Eger. It's time to find a place to have lunch, contact the accommodation about our arrival time and also get us there. We have to find a restaurant where we can pay by card because we don't have enough cash for two meals. We first went to a simple place by the station but we didn't understand what was offered there (our knowledge of Hungarian is limited) so we continue to look for food more centrally in the city. Eger is a popular tourist resort in Hungary and has 53,876 inhabitants. There is a castle and popular baths here.
13.25 The bench we are sitting on is red. The park (Érsekert) behind us is mostly dead. The hunt for a lunch spot continues. It is, as usual in Hungary in the summer, hot and humid. Today it is +33°C here. 13.38 There won't be a real lunch. Check-in time is approaching. Then it will probably be an earlier dinner instead. A certain thirst exists. 13.47 Christer texts the next accomodation and informs them that we will be there within half an hour. It gives us a quiet stroll and the opportunity for an easier purchase. 13.53 We have been to the Euro Csemege store and bought a drink and some snacks there. 14.10 We have reached the city center and the gate to Egri Vár, the castle in Eger. Here we have temporarily sat down to stop sweating before we walk the last stretch to the accommodation. To get there, we must first go through an underpass under the street above us. 14.24 We have had success. We now have a room with a fridge and a TV with a Hungarian sports channel. The room number is 6 and is one of the rooms at Apartmanház Orient. We received the check-in information via phone translation from our nice host who waved us in from the sidewalk as we looked for the right door. 15.06 After we shower one at a time, it's time to go out on the town to caffeinate, stroll, sightsee and more. Eventually, there will probably be a visit to a restaurant as well.
A break in the heat.
The Eger-patak flows through the city.
Below Egri Vár.
We have moved into room 6 at Apartmanház Orient.
We live next door to the castle in Eger.
Peter outside our accommodation, Apartmanház Orient.
15.24 We looked for a suitable cafe for a coffee stop along the Dobó István utca pedestrian street. However, we didn't find a perfect place. Maybe we go straight to dinner instead?
15.33 On a stage, in front of the Minorite Church (Saint Anthony of Padua Church) on Dobó István tér, children and young people dance and perform in folk costumes. Eager music with, among other things, the violin is played. It's folk music festival here in Eger. It is called the Szederinda International Folk Dance Festival and runs from June 28 to June 30. The church just mentioned is considered one of the finest baroque churches in Europe. 15.48 After trying to photograph the city name, we finally realized that coffee and the sights can wait. We need food and beer right now. This has been ordered from the Itt és Most restaurant. Today we drink German beer, Erdinger. We are at the other end of the square from the performing children. 16.30 It was hearty and delicious food. In addition, fresh and thirst-quenching weissbier. We also had music from the festival as accompaniment. What else is needed? 17.09 The meal was tied together with each a long coffee. It is, in pure Swedish, a large cup of coffee. Now we are sweating at the basilica Egri Bazilika. The sun shines behind the sacral building. I can't get a good picture because of this. 18.00 After shopping at the City SPAR grocery store, we are now back at home in room 6. We are just in time to see the first round of 16 in the football European Championship. The match is Italy vs Switzerland. 18.31 There are chances in both directions but no clear goalscoring chances, rather a bit of a wait-and-see game. 18.34 The chances of victory have been strengthened for Switzerland, who have just scored 1-0. Goal scorer is Remo Freuler.
The poet Sebestyén Tinódi Lantos sits on a lawn in Eger.
Dobó István utca, Eger.
Dobó István tér, Eger.
Egri Páduai Szent Antal-templom is also called the Minorite Church.
Dancing children during the folk music festival Szederinda.
Christer takes a selfie to make the city's letters not mirrored.
19.04 It's time for the second half. Will the reigning European champions turn this around or will the Swiss hold out?
19.08 Switzerland kicks into top gear straight away. After 28 seconds in the second half, Ruben Vargas made it 2-0. 19.55 The match is over. Italy have surprisingly been eliminated. I still thought it would be a more even match. 20.14 In the time span between the round of 16 finals, we put together a clear, final plan for tomorrow. Tomorrow morning we have breakfast here at the accommodation at 08.00 and check-in is from 14.00 at the next accommodation in Miskolc. 20.59 It is planned and ready for tomorrow. The match between Germany and Denmark will soon kick off. 21.05 The match has barely started when Germany nods in 1-0 but it seems as if the goal is ruled out. My Hungarian is weak but something wrong was done. 21.22 It's mostly games against a goal where a Danish goalkeeper stands in the way. 21.39 It's a break in the first half. A heavy thunderstorm moves in over the arena in Dortmund. 21.44 Rain and hail fall from the clouds. Players and referees have left the field. 22.01 The match has been restarted. The weather is better. 22.11 No rain, no goals but well we have a break now.
Peter hides behind beer.
Christer has dinner at Itt és Most.
Peter in front of the library in Eger.
Popular fountain Szökőkút on Dobó István tér.
Egri Bazilika is difficult to photograph today.
European Championship football dominates our evening. There were two matches.
22.29 Now the ball is rolling and now the players are running again. Second half has started.
22.33 Just now there was a Danish goal to be reviewed. Should they get a disallowed goal via VAR? 22.35 Of course. The case was dismissed. It's still 0-0. 22.37 Germany receive a penalty because the ball has touched a Danish finger. It will be a goal. Is it hands if the ball is stopped and changes direction? This verdict is just ridiculous. 22.52 Kai Havertz scores from the penalty and Germany then makes it 2-0 and the crowd is happy. Jamal Musiala scored the second goal. 23.21 Germany win the match and get to play at least one more match in this championship. We ourselves will get ready for the night.
You can see 13 photos from June 26 in this photoalbum.
You can see 68 photos from June 27 in this photoalbum.
You can see 82 photos from June 28 in this photoalbum.
You can see 54 photos from June 29 in this photoalbum.