Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt



Monday 11th of July

00.11 The coverage of the final of the Euro 2016 football continues here inside tent 6 at Bush Lodge, Queen Elizabeth National Park. I have managed to fall asleep from all the action on the radio. It meant that I missed the entire first fifteen minutes of the extra time. Now, however, I am awake again and will continue listening to the match. It is the BBC World Service via short way radio that helps us follow the drama.

00.19 Portugal has just taken the lead with 1-0. The goal was scored by Éder

00.33 The match is over. Twelve years ago we were in Taranto, in southern Italy. There we listened to Greek radio how Portugal lost the final against Greece. Now we have instead heard them win and become European Champions. Not much can be heard from outside the tent. Now it's finally time to get to sleep.

07.39 A new week is here. We have woken up and are now ready to travel further north here in Uganda.

08.10 Once again our day will start with breakfast. It is a luxury to just sit down and enjoy a breakfast among the twittering birds.

09.02 Now when we are full and also debt-free, the last things need to be taken care of. Possessions should be properly stowed down and nothing must be forgotten. We paid for the accommodation already at home in Sweden, but the bill for the food and drink consumed here has been paid. The cost matched with what we had estimated.

It is time to leave and move on.

The animals of the national park say good bye. Here you can see some waterbucks.

One of many birds we could see during our car trip north.

A lonely man out in the wild. Who is he?

09.53 Our car and the car's driver is here. It is Eddie who drove us yesterday during the trip to the Queen´s Pavilion. Now the car started and we set off from Bush Lodge. It has been a lovely stay here with the nature experiences that we will remember for a long time. We have, however, been quite isolated here without a private vehicle.

10.33 We have passed the equator monument and are back in the northern hemisphere. To the right of us is a shimmering from Lake George. It is a bit overcast today, a pleasant travel weather in other words.

10.51 The windows have been washed and the petrol has been filled. Now the car need a change of oil. We are in Kasese and Eddie has made a stop at a Total petrol station for necessary service on the car. We are in the immediate vicinity of the Jeliza Hotel and the police station. When we're done here we'll continue the journey north.

11.17 Easily and smoothly one of the employees at the petrol station pushed, heaved himself out of the grease pit. He just put his hands on the edges of the pit and lifted/pushed himself up. There are some strong guys that work here.

11.35 When we went over a bridge here in Kasese, Eddie told us about how it was here during the last rain period. Then the water flow was so high that the bridge was destroyed. Kasese is, unfortunately, a city on the decline. It has approximately 102 000 inhabitants. The mining industry has been shut down, and the railway here is also out of function. In the past there were some copper and cobalt mining in the area.

12.16 The trip has taken us through a lush, hilly landscape. Now it goes through the village of Kabale. It actually came a dash of rain a while ago.

12.25 Eddie has offered to continue to drive us to Kampala on Wednesday but we have declined the offer. Then there will be a bus. He has also talked on the phone with a friend who bought a new car in Kampala, and then it was stolen.

Big animals are blocking the road.

We have made a stop in Kasese.

Refilling oil in Uganda, one of many experiences this summer.

Toilet stop along the road.

12.47 Now we are approaching the final destination. It will be really nice to get there. It is always good to reach our destination, but after a few days in a tent, in the nature we are longing for a hotel, a city, and to get in touch with the outside world via internet again. This with a private driver is definitely preferred. However, we do not use it on every leg. It simply becomes too expensive.

13.17 Room 201 at Raja Excelsior Hotel in Fort Portal is our new home now and two days forward. Fort Portal has about 55 000 inhabitants, and takes its name from Sir Gerald Herbert Portal. At the end of the 1800´s, he visited Uganda and recommended that it would become a British protectorate. There is a statue of him in the city.

13.27 It is nice to have a real room. However, we are slightly confused as to where we are. The hotel was misplaced on the map we looked at when we booked on the internet. We are in a completely different part of the city but still in the centre. From the window we can see a large intersection with a petrol station, a few side streets and a messy bus station for minibuses. Occasions such as these, the internet is a great help and internet (Wi-Fi) is available here, thank you for that. With the help of Google Maps we will probably be able to locate ourselves.

13.51 We have ordered lunch here in the hotel's own restaurant. The waitress keeps a low, quiet sound level. This seem to be common in Uganda. The ones from the United States might be the people who fear the silence but the people of Uganda are the opposite.

14.33 We are slightly bored and are waiting. After that the TV channel Supersport have shown four summaries of yesterday's match in the Euro 2016 they now have decided to show the whole match. We have not seen any lunch yet.

15.25 Lunch was served late. The kitchen staff can not suffer from stress related ailments. It was rice, boiled potatoes and beef stew. Now we back in the room for a moment.

Raja Excelsior Hotel, Fort Portal.

The hotel on the inside.

Peter is connecting to the outside world again.

We are looking out at Fort Portal.

A late lunch is over.

16.23 Showering is nice. Showering hot is even more comfortable. Here at the hotel, however, there was no particular hot shower.

17.49 We are more than lazy. This we must do something about!

18.31 A quick walk in the immediate home area has given us the following results. We have bought beverages in a small shop and also have the knowledge that the central parts are bumpy and hilly, a lot of obstacles and people on the go. I do not want to walk around in the dark. It is easy to make a bad step or fall down in a hole.

19.01 We're back in our room and gaze out from the balcony. A dressed up man in a red jacket and with a black bow tie went right past on the street below. He was carrying a bucket of paint. He was most likely on his way home from his job.

19.34 Now we shall see what is offered when it comes to this evening's meals. Once again we will eat here in the hotel restaurant. We have no other sensible options in easy walking distance from the hotel.

20.41 There were big portions for dinner in the evening. There was no great speed in the kitchen this time either, but the food is good. Now tomorrow is planned and structured.

22.56 We debate and discuss small and big problems. We continue to marvel at all the idiocy that people publish on Facebook. Has there always been so many stupid people, and have they come out in full bloom through the social media? One may wonder. Now it is in all cases time to leave the internet and pull down the mosquito nets.

The sun is going to sleep in Fort Portal.


Tuesday 12th of July

08.48 A happy rooster is crowing somewhere out there. A truck honks a little sad. We slept well here under the mosquito nets at Raja Excelsior and now will head for breakfast.

09.31 It may seem tedious to start each morning with a breakfast, but it is needed. No matter how much you ate the day before, the night take care of what you have eaten and the hunger, the craving, the appetite is back again in the beginning of the new day. Breakfast meant a third visit in a short time to the hotel restaurant.

10.28 The morning slowly moves towards mid day. Soon, we will head out from the hotel and do something this day as well. We want something to happen each day. On the program today we have sightseeing in the city, lunch, dinner, and a purchase of the bus ticket for tomorrow's journey.

10.46 We have walked to the small square where the buses from the company Link are parked. It is just a stone throw from our hotel. However, we have not seen any offices where we can buy tickets. They may be purchased on board the bus. Tomorrow we will know. In any case we asked at the hotel about the bus times so hopefully that clears everything tomorrow when we'll travel to the capital.

11.06 We are now on the sidewalk and looking at a lion in a roundabout. We have begun our walk through the central parts of Fort Portal.

11.29 It is raining and is quite cool today. We have now gone through our little town and found the recommended restaurant Dutchess (https://www.dutchessuganda.com) where we sat down by a table outdoors. First we ordered the crocodile burger for lunch but they were unfortunately sold out. It became the Royal Cheese burger instead. The restaurant will apparently be one of the very best in the whole of Uganda.

12.42 The lunch was delicious. To think that something as simple as a burger can be so good. There was a touch of the Netherlands here and there in the restaurant. It is not surprising, since the owners are of Dutch origin. In addition to dine in the acclaimed restaurant, you can buy home baked bread here and surf on the internet. They also have hotel rooms.

We walked here just after eleven.

We have walked to the restaurant/hotel Dutchess.

Peter is going through the menu at Dutchess.

We had an early burger lunch this Tuesday.

13.14 On the way home, we looked, without success, for a working ATM. It was, however, much easier to find a Chinese owned store, Ji Chang Supermarket. In there we bought the snack for tomorrow's bus trip, beverages to the room and a little Uganda spirits.

15.07 Since we came home to the Raja Excelsior, we have washed some clothes. Now, awaits siesta with reading and relaxation.

16.03 Reading is a great alternative to make time fly. Make sure to stock up with good literature, preferably detective stories, before you set off out into the world. Above all, it is nice to move the thoughts to an alternate reality for a while and let your brain rest from the everyday life with all what it means.

16.46 It has started to become time to leave the hotel room and return to reality. We'll do one last walk here in the city. A few chores remain. We are going out on new hunt for an ATM and will eat an early dinner before darkness falls.

17.11 Yet no success with finding a working ATM. We find only a few from small unknown banks, and it is foolish to take a chance, having Christer's fate in Rwanda in mind. Before we continue to look we'll eat an early dinner at a charming little Cafe Linah.

Fort Portal

Peter is visiting Café Linah.

Christer is having a dinner during daylight, unusual when we travel in Africa.

Christer´s meal.

18.26 It was good food but it was unnecessarily hot inside the restaurant. The service was excellent. We felt really welcome at Café Linah. The ATM issue was resolved on the way home, when a guard showed us where the Barclay Bank had hidden their ATM. Now we are home again in the room. The windows are open. We are now letting in the fresh air and sounds from outside.

20.13 Fresh air in the room is a splendid solution and thought. The room receives as more life and energy and it applies to us also. We are still at a relatively high altitude, 1480 meters above sea level, so we can do even without the really annoying tropical heat.

21.46 Slow time is nice sometimes. Brains and mobiles loaded with the necessary information. There is also a plan for tomorrow. We eat breakfast, check out and trying to come up with the bus, which allegedly goes to 10.00 am from the square/parking lot just behind our hotel.


Wednesday 13th of July

08.01 It is a chilly morning here in Fort Portal. Today we say goodbye to yet another place. We will also make a journey towards and hopefully also get to see a new capital city, this time the Ugandan capital, Kampala. Today it is the 13th of July, a classic bad day for our part. Actually, we should do as little as possible on this day. We know since before what can happen. The 13th of July 2001, 2002, 2003, 2005, 2007 and 2015 have in different ways been hard days with hardships and bad luck.

08.58 Breakfast here at the hotel is completed. It seems as if we will bring all the belongings with us this time also. The last stuff are packed in the two backpacks.

09.17 We have now checked out from our hotel and will now take aim for the bus station. Well, bus station and bus station, it is more a place where the bus can park. We are going with a bus company called Link (http://www.link.co.ug)

09.33 We reached on foot the green the yellow bus and bought tickets from a woman who stood by the bus door. It could have been cooler in the bus. We are sitting on a seat with room for three with our backpacks between us. It is still some time before departure.

10.05 The almost full bus has begun its journey towards the Ugandan capital. Because of the congestion another passenger has squeezed himself in between me and Christer. The backpacks have been loaded out in the aisle.

11.07 After an hour of bumping along the main road, we have now stopped in Kyenjojo. The other passengers read in the newspapers or are looking at their mobiles. It cools as we travel forward. Now when we are standing still the heat is back.

We have entered our green bus.

Peter is killing some time, escaping into a book.

The bus took us here but not any longer. What happens now?

11.54 After nearly an hour we still remain on the same spot. Passengers come and go, in and out of the bus. The backpacks are left in the aisle. Sometimes I have Christer's backpack in my lap, so that the passengers will get past. New information reaches us. There may be something wrong with the bus. Three cheers for the 13th of July! We have nothing against the small town of Kyenjojo but we bought a ticket to Kampala and it is Kampala that we want to get to.

12.24 A new empty and functioning bus should according to rumours be on the way here. It is the bus that we should go ahead with. Now all that remains is that the bus will get here and that we board it. We have been talking with a young guy who told us that this should be the most reliable bus company in Uganda. Wonder what would have happened if we have chosen another? We stand among the other passengers in the sun and wait. Some local gentlemen go around with a car and hope to drive someone and earn money. No one has joined them yet.

13.16 The extra bus is here and we are on board. Now, there's nothing stopping us from going further.

13.30 Finally, we are moving again. It took a further quarter of an hour before we could start. Though I guess they wanted to have more passengers than the two of us and a few more.

14.11 We have reached Kyegegwa. Along the way there has been some eating. I have eaten an apple and my seat neighbour, breast milk. I don't have Christer next to me but an infant.

14.49 Mubende is the name of the current town, the latest stop. Here the passengers are offered something chewable. Vendors outside the bus offers fruits, breads and grilled meats. They also sell soft drinks and water. I content myself with what I have already consumed. My neighbour seems satisfied and happy also.

16.11 We would have been in Kampala by now had it not been for the bus breakdown. Instead, we are left on the bus. There is nothing wrong with the actual bus but I want to get to Kampala, I don't want to ride the bus!

17.28 Finally we are in Kampala. The trip into the city went past a road construction and various narrow streets through various neighbourhoods. The bus stopped in a veritable chaos. An ocean of minivans and people on foot moving in a relatively confined area. There was barely place to put your feet down. We were quickly caught by a taxi driver. The cost for the drive is way too high. We do not care about it. The only thing we want is that he takes us to our next home and that they are willing to house us.

17.40 A Swedish singer, Dr Alban sings on the radio in our taxi, which slowly moves through the traffic in congestions of Kampala city centre. Our driver pointed out some of the big hotels and official buildings.

18.04 There are a lot of vehicles around in the evening. Now the driver asks one of the locals where our hotel is located. Christer assists with a map.

Hotel Acacia City, Kampala.

Christer´s room, K14.

Going out in the dark, looking for food.

18.44 Hotel Acacia City (http://www.acaciacitykampala.com) is our new home. Here we have separate rooms, number K14 and K18, each with their own staircase. We took two single rooms because there was no double room with two beds. Within a quarter of an hour, we will be reunited. It's nice to shower after a very long bus trip.

19.10 I walked down my stairs, past the lobby and up the stairs to Christer's door. After a light knocking I stepped in. Now we are going to leave our hotel to find a suitable dinner restaurant.

19.32 It shows that we are in a big city. We hadn't made many steps before the taxi vultures began to cry out to us. Now we have fled the city noise. It will be dinner at La Fontaine (http://www.lafontaine-kampala.com), a restaurant in the immediate vicinity of the shopping mall, Acacia Mall.

20.42 It was very good, good service and good prices. On the way back, we waited at the intersections. It is not easy to cross the street when traffic is dense. We bought some drinks at a petrol station with a very nice expediter. Now we will have evening coffee here at the hotel.

20.50 Now we were served coffee in a very beautiful pitcher and popcorn in a small bowl of plaited wood. The restaurant at our hotel serves Ethiopian food and also the coffee is of the Ethiopian kind.

21.42 We have separated, gone to different rooms. Of course it is oh-so-pleasantly with travel company but sometimes it's good to be all alone.

22.26 Just as I lie here in my room and read some things strike me. One a more simple thing, what a great book it is. The more far-fetched thing, this is the 97th capital that I write a journal in. I have during the journal years not had the time to sleep in all of the 97 cities, but a lot of it is anyway. It is to sleep on it and give an answer tomorrow, how many is it?

This evening´s dinner place, La Fontaine.

After a long day it feels good with a tasty dinner.

Internet connection, popcorn and Ethiopian coffee, not a bad combination.


VIDEOS


You can see 28 photos from July 11 in this photoalbum.
You can see 19 photos from July 12 in this photoalbum.
You can see 14 photos from July 13 in this photoalbum.


CONTINUE


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