Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt
07.37 The sky is not blue at least not what we can see through our window. It is possible that it is so behind the clouds. We are still here at the Hotel El Sol in Panajachel, Guatemala.
08.59 The breakfast options offered today were similar to yesterday´s. One difference was that the bananas returned, both fried and raw. Now we will get rid of some waste products before going out. Our sandals are still wet from yesterday’s rain.
09.39 Yesterday's plans were partly cancelled due to rain. Today we have many exciting activities planned. We hope that the weather allows the plans to be accomplished. We did not go far from our hotel before tuk-tuk number 118 picked us up. Now we jump and shake up the road with potholes and cobblestones. Why are there speed bumps here? Something stings my knee.
Going into town.
09.55 It was a red-black insect that was sitting biting me on my knee. How had it got there? We were not exactly standing still. We have now gone with the tuk-tuk through the Panajachel, up a steep hill, down to the lake side, past a plush hotel area and finally we reached the first goal. Now we are by a waterfall, a stream in the nature reserve Reserva Natural Atitlán (http://www.atitlanreserva.com). We have hopes of seeing animals and beautiful scenery here. Our tuk-tuk driver wanted to book a return trip with us but we declined it since we don’t know when we will go back.
10.06 The hopes have come true. We have seen beautiful views and cool two spider monkeys up in the treetops. There is a wooden platform here to ease the observation of the monkey business. Here in the nature reserve it is possible to whiz through the treetops on the cables ("ziplines"). We are almost the only tourists here who just want to walk around in the forest at ground level. The others are dressed in helmets and miscellaneous equipment for the treetop travel.
10.17 Some mysterious sounds in the greenery were no exciting animals; it was just a man who cut the grass with a machete.
Peter found the tree of his life.
The sunlight makes Christer look bald.
A spider monkey in the treetops.
10.49 After having crossed some long swaying suspension bridges over a river we have reached a waterfall. The trail was closed, blocked on the further side of the last bridge. On the way back we met the man who was in the same restaurant as us last night. He had brought his family with him.
11.16 We have seen a flock of coati which walked up in the trees and people have slipped past on a steel cable. It's the zipline gang that rushes through the tree tops, screaming and disturbing the wildlife. Now the path is broken by a rushing river. Now we will have to balance on the wet stones to get over to the other side.
11.27 Incredibly, we crossed over both dry and unscathed. Now we have a lovely view of Lake Atitlán. However some high green hotels disturb the stunning views.
One of many bridges to cross in Reserva Natural Atitlán.
Christer is taking photos near a waterfall.
View towards Lake Atitlán.
A tourist trying the ziplines.
11.56 So, we finally got back to the starting point. Here we have seen some beautiful butterflies and done some photographing of them. Now we have sat down and ordered some for the stomachs. It's time for a snack.
12.33 We brought coffee and fruit salad to our stomachs. We left the area and boarded the tuk-tuk 131 just outside. It takes us to the mooring site of the next vehicle. Christer has the opportunity to practice Spanish with the driver who is asking him about the Swedish winter and if there are tuk-tuk taxis in Sweden?
12.46 The friendly driver took us back to Panajachel and the lake shore. It is time to go boating again. Once again, we shall go out on a lake. We were asked to sit down on the main thwart. The boat trip to San Pedro La Laguna cost 25 quetzals.
Christer is looking small.
One of many beautiful flowers in the forest.
One of the residents in the butterfly garden.
We finished our nature adventure with coffee and fruit.
13.07 We have left the beach and are out on the lake. The engine has stopped and we bob around. Something has got stuck in the propeller. Relax, it's all right. The problem is solved.
13.41 "Born to Be Alive" is played, the waves are lapping and a boat bows away. We have set ourselves at the restaurant Nick's Place in San Pedro La Laguna, one of the small towns around Lake Atitlán. Another of the restaurants here in town has a menu in Hebrew. We also had an Israeli tourist with us in the boat here.
13.53 We have supported the local school system, or in all cases, the education of a girl. Her mother came and sold home-baked bread to get money for her daughter's education. Soon we will have lunch. Speaking of eating they are playing "I Eat Cannibals" in the speakers.
Christer (who you can see in the mirror) is practising his Spanish with our tuk-tuk driver.
Going by boat across the Atitlán lake.
Santa Cruz La Laguna
15.04 The food came, but not simultaneously. I was halfway through my meal when Christer got his food. After the lunch we walked around in the small town. There is almost no flat surface here. It is up hills in all directions. Luckily, it is downhill if you go the other way. On our walk we met two girls/women whose paths we crossed before, both on the Ticabus and at the Mayan ruins of Copán. It was the two Polish girls who were upset over a dog's fate on the border with Honduras. What are the odds, the probability that we run into each other several times? Will we ever see them again? Now, as the rain has slowly started to fall, we are waiting for a boat from here. One of the moored boats is called Titanic. Hope we will not go with it. A few more Israelis have passed.
15.20 The rain has passed and we have embarked. We are not on the Titanic. Behind us is a picture of what is probably the world history's most depicted Jewish woman, the Virgin Mary. Now we are waiting for more passengers. San Pedro La Laguna is a nice town. It's fun to visit and see. I do not know if I could spend the night here. It feels as if most is seen and done. The city is primarily a place to relax and enjoy life and views of the lake. However, we have never been further west on our travels. The city's coordinates, 14 ° 41 '25''N 91 ° 16' 21''W
16.09 It was bouncing a return trip. The boat just did not level off and made a hearty cord in the middle of the lake. Once in port we were offered transportation to Guatemala City. It does not feel like something you want to do spontaneously with only a small backpack. Tuk-tuk number 11 came and drove us back to the hotel. Here it is cleaned and my towel which I hang to dry has been folded and the sandals are almost dry.
16.18 The U.S. House of Representatives is voting on the budget plan. Yes 216 are needed for it to pass. 212 have said yes and 18 have not vote.
16.21 The House of Representatives have said yes for the speaker’s proposal.
Lots of Tuk-tuk taxis in San Pedro La Laguna.
San Pedro La Laguna.
Enjoying life in Guatemala.
16.36 A cheerful melody led us to look out and we saw a biking ice cream seller move around in the neighborhood. Even Guatemala has ice cream vans.
17.33 BBC World shows a television documentary about the founder and chairman of the WTO. World Toilet Organization, Jack Sim. (http://www.worldtoilet.org/wto) The documentary is about his job and deed. The program is called Pestchardt's People Asia. We have been told that 2.6 billion people have no functioning toilets.
17.57 It was an interesting and mind-blowing program. We have been told that the lack or total absences of toilets where you can be alone at school are leading to girls dropping out of school due to menstruation. First they are home for a week each month and then when they drop out as they missed too much. Sim was on a visit to Indonesia and graded the different families’ toilet facilities. Now the BBC reports on memory moments and funerals linked to last week's tragedy in Norway.
Maya woman in San Pedro La Laguna.
19.29 We left the room 301 and went for some surfing experience. Now we are at Restaurante José Pingüinos for some barbecue food and a rooster. It becomes a Gallo, the country's beer, which means rooster. They offer live music. Three women are playing marimba and maracas. They and also the restaurant's chairs are dressed in Mayan clothing.
20.29 We had really good grilled food. It was a piece of meat for Christer and a skewer of me. For starters, we had a tasty soup. We were served boiled vegetables, rice, lettuce, guacamole and tortilla/nacho chips to our grilled meat. The musical entertainment was great. Unfortunately it has started to rain. We have just asked for the bill.
21.05 It all went to 159 quetzal or $20 for both of us. Now we and what we had with us is going to dry. Well some of the clothes will get wet. It's laundry day.
22.47 My shirt and my shorts hanging out to dry. We have eaten the cakes which we bought from the Indian woman earlier today. It is a large, flat, high-fiber biscuit.
23.01 Now weird stuff has happened. First, the TV was turned off and then a rooster began to crow.
Perfect marimba music during the dinner at Restaurante José Pingüinos.
07.04 COCK-A-DOODLE-DOO can be heard from a rooster. We also hear; voices, engine sounds and something that sounds like a bell. Now we have two hours to get everything ready before the departure from Panajachel.
08.24 Before we went down for breakfast we saw a feature on BBC World. It was the seven natural wonders of the world. One of the candidates was an old acquaintance from last year's trip, Iguaçu Falls. At breakfast, three plates were already set. Had they prepared breakfast for us or did we get someone else's breakfast? Now we begrudge us a little breakfast boost. We eat more of what we bought yesterday.
09.13 We paid for the stay in the reception, accommodation and meals were at U.S. $ 48. We went outside to wait for our transport. Pretty soon a black minivan came. Someone said "Christer?", We confirmed it and bags and men came in the right places. The bus started and now it stopped again. One of the staff stepped out. Was he with us for just a little bit?
09.25 We have made one to stop and people enter. At the back of transport are three loud-speaking Americans. Do the have some hearing problems in that country? It is due to loud sounds? Now we were passed by a tuk-tuk. They are similar to those we saw in Southeast Asia. Where are they made? The brand seems to be Bajaj.
09.42 The minibus continues around in Panajachel and has picked up people at various hotels and guest houses.
10.22 Travel is going just fine. We now pass a coach who leans precariously to the right. What is less well is that although is that journey is heading for some rain clouds. Is the gasket covered enough?
11.28 The journey continues and we have not yet encountered any rain clouds. Right now we have stopped at a PDV gas station. It is time to refuel. I've been scratching an old insect bite and it led to some bloodshed. I have stopped on it.
12.10 We have, after a smooth journey with the good service, arrived in Antigua and at the Hotel Casa Rustica. Here we were welcomed by a cool dog. It seems to be a problem with the reservation. The young ladies in the reception can’t find us not in the papers or on the computer. The city of Antigua is by the way on UNESCO World Heritage Site.
12.21 It was evidently not the intention that we should live there. We have been shown to another place which has the same owners, Hotel Casa Antigua. Is it I who misunderstood, Hostelworld who have done wrong or is it all du to the personnel’s hassle? We are now waiting to check in and Christer fits the book on the minibus to collect us at the Hotel Casa Rustica on Monday. It is supposed to pick us up at the housing and then it's good that they know where we actually live.
13.03 I do not know where everything went wrong and I do not care about it. Now we are in room 6 at the Hotel Casa Antigua (http://hotelcasa-antigua.com). We are actually in a more expensive hotel than what we booked but the price hasn’t been raised. The TV shows the drawing for the qualifiers for the World Cup 2014. We arrived just in time for the draw for the European zone.
Swans were waiting on our beds.
13.38 Now we turn our attention to the European teams. What will happen to Sweden? Which group will it be for us?
13.53 Ireland, Kazakhstan, Faroe Islands, Austria and Germany play with Sweden in Group C.
14.33 Enough is enough. Now we have to go out.
14.55 We have, after watching some street performance, there was dancing and music was played, sat down at the restaurant La Deli across from our hotel. We have ordered a cheeseburger each.
Dancers on the streets of Antigua.
15.53 We got plenty of food. After that we have familiarized ourselves with our home block. We have looked for possible breakfast places and a small shop where Christer bought a drink. I missed to have notes of low denomination and was forced to put back my drink because there was no change for my big bill. I have to plan and think before I act. I had planned to grab some coffee from a machine here at the accommodation. All I succeeded in doing was making mistakes. I didn’t get any coffee.
16.41 Enough of doing nothing. We've though made a budget for the remainder of our stay in Guatemala. Now we are sitting on the patio and are about to write postcards. Christer arranged so that we can have coffee. It was just to put the plug of the machine into the wall, something I had not thought of.
18.24 We're back in the room and are watching a program about strange and tragic accidents. During the advertising various presidential candidates here in Guatemala promises both this and that. We hear bangs and explosions from outside. It is from the rockets which detonate in the sky.
19.42 I have washed away the blood that poured down my left leg. It's the wound which I tore up earlier today that have begun to bleed again. I did clean the wound with hand antiseptic and put on a home-made patch, a piece of toilet paper on a piece of insulation tape.
Peter is sitting in the garden at Hotel Casa Antigua.
Hotel Casa Antigua.
19.59 We had earlier seen the restaurant next door to the living and so had others as well. It was crowded and we were asked to come back later. We haven’t returned. Instead, we went to Restaurante De Don Jose. Here we have ordered a daily special and a beer. The restaurant we first chose, La Fonda de la Calle Real caon go on waiting for us. We do not want it. Is it so difficult to arrange with an extra table? It went well in Managua.
20.56 There was no giant portions but not expensive either, 55 quetzal around 7.50 dollars. Now as we have come home we have taken the first malaria pill. We have also bought pastries and evening beer. Now, tomorrow is being planned.
21.42 All is planned. We have heard different sounds, marimba playing, the sounds of gymnastics people, Pilates? and now rain. However, we hear no smacking geckos. It feels weird. They have been with us earlier on the trip.
08.43 A splashing sound can be heard from the other side of the wall. It is not rain, but Christer who is taking a shower. The day is planned. Now we will see how much of what we planned will be done.
09.30 We're back at Don José, yesterday's dinner restaurant. It is time for July's last breakfast. We sit and reflect on the effects on the own language to reside in a country where another language is spoken.
10.17 Don José offered three pancakes, a watermelon slice, coffee, butter and honey. We also got four little bread, but they were returned by the waiter. I guess it never was meant for us to have it. Now we are back inside the room where yesterday's laundry slowly dries. No more bloodshed during the night all thanks to the homemade patch.
10.43 We have been up on the roof here at Casa Antigua. Sure there was a view from there, but nothing extraordinary. Not surprisingly, we saw lot of rooftops. Now we are waiting for the computer here at the hotel to become vacant. Christer want to check if he has received answers to the amendment of our transportation out of here tomorrow.
Arco Santa Catalina.
We bought CDs from the group Maya Kaqchikel.
11.01 While we wait for the computer so we are thinking a bit. According to a note in our bathroom, we are liable if we have broken something. This also applies to the bedding and if towels are spotted. How will this go? A towel that we put on the bathroom floor is dirty and my towel has blood stains from yesterday.
11.31 We got tired of waiting for the computer and headed out on the streets. There have been short on a little yellow arch, Arco Santa Catalina. It was previously used as a bridge for the nuns at the convent that was here. Nowadays it is part of a luxury hotel. Furthermore, we looked at, listened to and bought music by a small Mayan-band, family Mux. A man and his sons played marimba, flute and other instruments. Now we are sitting in front of the big yellow church Iglesia La Merced. It has just been the fruit while. We had bought a bag of pineapple slices was a salesman here. It was good but now my fingers sticky.
11.48 We have paid a modest entrance fee and entered the courtyard of the La Merced. This used to be a convent and here is a giant fountain, 27 meters in diameter. It has the shape of the Mayan ancient symbol of power, water lily.
12.31 The courtyard was submitted and we have strolled around in the city. Now we are on a small square near the Templo de Santa Rosa. There are tourists here and also people from the local population. Some young people talking and laughing. A youth do neither. The appropriate is resting, sleeping in the grass.
Iglesia La Merced.
The beautiful fountain in the Iglesia La Merced courtyard is said to be Latin America's largest.
Christer in front of the old convent at Iglesia La Merced.
13.15 "Take My Breath Away" is being played here at the restaurant Mart Dino. We ordered spaghetti and ravioli. We will have lunch and also drink beer and wine.
13.57 It was great with pasta and wine. Now I sit here with the key in my hand. Do I dare to go into the room? Do we have to pay for the towels? Christer has not received an email reply and outside the housing, is a Volvo Amazon.
14.28 Everything is as it uses to be in the room. We have clean towels on the beds and no bill for the blood-stained and soiled. The TV is playing old film music hits, Staying Alive from Saturday Night Fever, Summertime from Grease and now Circle of Life from Lion King.
Peter looks unhappy despite the beautiful surroundings.
The handicraft market in front of the ruins of Iglesia del Carmen, which was destroyed by three earthquakes in the 1700´s.
14.47 We are on another bench in yet another Parque Central. I was just offered some shoe shine. One thing that just struck me is that we despite all the tourists haven’t seen a single exchange man. It is because due to the fact that the U.S. dollar works everywhere.
15.16 Children scream and a silver-tuk-tuk passes in front of us. We sit in the park Plaza La Unión between San Pedro Hospital and Church of Santa Clara. Pedro was active here in the 1600s. He started the hospital here and helped the plague affected Maya Indians. He became San Pedro, where John Paul II canonized him 2002.
16.08 We went to San Francisco Church and saw San Pedro's grave. We also listened to music outside the church. Now we are back in the Parque Central and feel the unusual stench of cigarette smoke and the familiar rain splashes, which tend to come every afternoon.
Guatemala´s flag on Palacio de los Capitanes.
Christer wonders why there is an old Volvo Amazon outside our hotel.
Hospital de San Pedro.
16.40 Now we sit down again. We are at the Café Condesa. We have ordered black coffee and pastries. Outside of here a young woman glanced at us. She seemed to recognize us. We thought it was something familiar about her. Was it Australian wonab that we met at the accommodation in Santa Ana in El Salvador?
17.10 Such pastries! Christer's pie was probably 15 centimeters tall and my tiramisu was a clear calorie bomb. Really good it was and this café is recommended.
18.52 We have been effective. Money has been withdrawn, we have bought gifts for nieces and nephews and been out on the web. When surfing, it appeared that the transportation email had not been sent. Now it has. Finally, we checked in on the Ryanair flight back to Sweden and printed out our boarding cards. Now the question remains: if we do not get answers about transportation, where will we be tomorrow? Shall we stand by the old place or here at the new? As for the dinner the question is, do we want any and do we manage to eat something?
Antigua (which means ancient/old) is the old capital in Guatemala.
Great coffee and pastries at Café Condesa.
20.07 It leaning towards a solution to America's economic problems. How we do with the food remains to be seen. It inclines to something simple.
20.27 Today, there is not much of a dinner for me. It is just a small hamburger with fries and a Pepsi. Christer is having a medium pizza with pineapple and ham. We are at Al Macaron, a chain founded in 1977 by Paul Perini (1948-1985). We have thought for a moment about why Mr. Perini died so young.
22.46 We ate and went home. Here in the room we have been conducted plans and studies for tomorrow. Christer has sent another email, now at another address. On the TV show Fox Sports shows the friendly match between Leicester City and Real Madrid.
23.25 Thirteen minutes have been played by the second half and Real Madrid a 1-0 lead. The half time Leicester changed from black to white shirts and Real did the opposite.
08.13 Today we were, as usual, awakened by Christer's phone. Only this time it was not the wake up signal but a caller. We do not know who. The conversation ended as quickly as it came. Today's big question is when will our vehicle come and get us? Another question is where do we board it?
09.03 We have begrudged us a quick snack, mini-breakfast just outside the room. It became a cinnamon bun with coffee / water. Now we are heading out a short stroll. We know nothing more about the transportation answer. There is no Internet connection at the moment.
09.26 What, uh, sorry. We are now at Rainbow Cafe for breakfast. We have just discovered that we have poor hearing. This is not just a café; you can also buy and switch books here. I suggested in jest that I would have changed some old handwritten diary. Then Christer said huh? and I answered what?.
10.47 We ate our breakfasts and I bought a used book. For payment, I submitted a Nesbø book and got 10 quetzals in discount. After that we went on the post office before we went home. Here I am in the room that smells anything but summer meadow and Christer is by the computer to check information about our transportation.
Rainbow Café, Antigua.
11.08 We have received a positive answer. Our transport will pick us here at the accommodation at 14.00. Now we are thinking about the order in which to do what needs to be done. We are thinking about the final sightseeing here in Antigua, reading, check-out and lunch. All we know is that lunch will not be the first one. We want to make sure to eat as close to departure as possible. We have a long journey ahead of us today.
11.59 It all began with a final sightseeing. We have walked pass the Iglesia La Merced, and now sits on a park bench in a park next to the San Sebastian Church. It is overcast today. When will the rain? How wet will the packing get?
12.21 We and the hearty rain reached the lodging at the same moment. How on earth are we going to pack to limit the wetness of the backpacks?
A mobile library (book bus) in Antigua.
13.07 The backpacks are prepared as best as possible. We left them at the front desk when we checked out. Now we are having lunch at Burger King. This is the fourth meal of the third country that Burger King offers. Is this the last meal there? Within an hour we will be sitting our transport. It will be a long journey today. Sometimes you need those. Thankfully, it didn’t rain on our way here. Burger King is well-guarded. At the counter is a guard with a machine gun. You would think that they are selling gold instead of hamburgers.
13.30 We have jumped, crossed back to the hotel. It's raining again and the pavements are wet. It is idiocy to soak the sandals.
14.10 All of our preparation to avoid the backpacks getting wet was in vain. They are located inside the minibus. OK, nothing lasts forever. They just lifted my backpack up on the roof. Now the same happened to Christer's backpack. I hope the two backpacks will be properly covered. We seem to going with another company than the one we booked with. Has there been a change? Doesn’t our company drive today? We were called to the bus of a little boy who bowed to us on a list, took our money and then left. Let's hope that everything went well.
15.16 There has been a short stop in Guatemala City. One person has boarded.
15.56 Just as the traffic finally started to flow as the rain came. It is once again slow ahead.
17.39 We have made a fifteen-minute stop in Puerta a las Verpaces. It feels good to stretch the legs. Well stretch and stretch I sit down. The covering of the backpacks seems just fine.
A short break during a long trip.
18.10 It was a long quarter. There was no panic as the people were asked to get on board. At the break we saw a bus from Coban Travels, the company we booked with. This just gets weirder.
19.21 We have listened at and talked to a few other passengers. We have been told that Israelis have a problem to get into Belize. There is no conflict between the two countries. It is due to the fact that an Israeli tourist shall have punched out a passport or customs official recently. In the mini bus is a group of Israelis who are out on a long trip to celebrate that their military service is over. We also talked to some German ladies about different languages and their differences and similarities.
20.40 After lots of rain in the dark on winding roads, we reached our goal. The carriage rolled into Coban and one person got out. The question from the staff was, any more in Cobán? Yes, we said. We are going to Casa Luna. They drove us there and then there was chaos. There was no order in what was packed to the roof. It was dark and raining. It took a while before we got our backpacks. Once inside we got the feeling that they have not received our booking here either. Now a whole bunch got in here at the accommodation. They went with the Cobán Travels bus we saw at the diner in the Puerta a las Verpaces. Why didn’t it drove us? Had taken it taken us if we had not changed accommodation in Antigua? We are staying in room 2.
21.11 The feeling we had was correct. We are not pre-booked here at the hostel Casa Luna. We booked two nights, paid for the room and checked if our minibus booked from here would cost. We have not been booked either. It was arranged and we asked about a restaurant. We had one in store and got tips on that particular, El Penascal. Just as we came out of the housing Christer got a question about the restaurant by a man. He did not tell us about but wondered where it was. Now it's time for soup.
21.55 The food was served very quickly and it was good. Now we're back in your room and think about and how to wash. Our clothes do not smell good.
23.13 The rain keeps up and our shoes are if not banished, at least pledged outside the room. Tomorrow morning we might use the washing machine. We are pleased to be here, but nuts over all that have not worked. Christer had by mail booked minibuses and accommodation in good time and got everything confirmed yet, all this is unknown here as we arrived.
We finally reached Cobán.
VIDEOS
You can see 103 photos from July 29 in this photoalbum.
You can see 20 photos from July 30 in this photoalbum.
You can see 71 photos from July 31 in this photoalbum.
You can see 10 photos from August 1 in this photoalbum.