07.15 We might not use the washing machine after all. It is not good drying weather today. The reason for the early hour is that there is only hot water until half past seven here; here that is hostel Casa Luna in Cobán, Guatemala. However, there may be some hand washing in a washbasin later.

08.50 Today, we feel dull and worn. Why is it so? Is it the more than forty days' travel that has begun to take its toll? We have at least managed to have a shower in the common shower a bit away from our room. It is simple but effective.

09.05 Outside our window a girl been have served coffee. We went out and asked for breakfast. They referred us to a nearby restaurant. Mysterious!

Peter is having breakfast at Café Fantasia.

09.31 In the absence of an accommodation breakfast we went out to find a cafe. We took aim at the Café Fantasia. We were not the only ones the move. It is a festival in the city, a festival called Rabin Ajau. Rabin Ajau is Maya for the king's daughter. The street outside here is filled with a parade and the sidewalks are packed with spectators. It took some meandering and pushing to get to our goal. Now we wait for coffee and pancakes.

10.04 The breakfast was good. We were virtually the only guests. We also took the opportunity to photograph and film the excited school children who went through the town in the big parade.

10.20 Now we have brought in what we had hung out to dry. It is not because it is dry. It is for it not to get wet if it will rain. We are about to go out again.

A parade in Cobán. Here we see school children who want to save the environment and protecting nature.

Cobán

Hostal Casa Luna.

10.55 It is time for some hiking. We have walked a few streets away from our home and are now at Parque Nacional Las Victorias. Will there be more and / or new animals, adventures and escapades? The national park is situated just adjacent to the city. We've talked with a ranger, got some information about different paths and are now ready for the woods.

11.25 Nothing seen so far. We go around in circles and do not come out in the woods. We have not found the correct paths/trails. The only thing that happened is that we started to get thirsty. Unfortunately we have no liquid with us with not even a mosquito repellent. But we have at least found a nice little pond.

11.45 Christer finally found a good usable trail. However, we do not know where it is heading and have turned back. It's definitely no mammals here. The forest is filled with beautiful greenery and various insects.

12.27 Along the path were small flyers with pictures of UCN's president and vice president candidates. Do this make UCN a part(y) of the forest? We have also been overtaken by a jogger twice. Are we going slowly, or is the loop short? Eventually we left the forest and the trail and have reached the Club Coban Imperial home stadium Estadio Verapaz José Angel Rossi. The team became the nation´s football champions on 6th of June 2004.

Peter makes a note before entering the national park.

A nice pond in the natonal park Las Victorias.

Christer climbing an uphill slope.

A forest path in the national park Las Victorias.

Club Cobán Imperial was actually the best Guatemalan football team 2004.

13.14 Outside the sun is a shiner our curtains couldn’t be thinner and our freshly washed laundry hanging on the liner. Hey that was bad poetry. We are back in our room for a little break.

13.52 On the table are some white linen (?) napkins. Salad?, asked the waiter as he put two Gallo-beer on the table. We hear an instrumental version of My Way from the speakers. It's time for lunch at the restaurant El Bistro. The restaurant belongs to a hotel called Casa D'Acuña. We wish that we had chosen this property instead. We got here by going down a steep hill from the main square.

15.10 We were visited by flies during the meal. After dinner we saw the square with some strange concrete art and a church. This was followed by a successful hunt for an internet cafe. Now we will get updates from the internet.

Christer is eating lunch at El Bistro.

15.52 We have, after our internet session, treated us some afternoon snack at the Maya café Xkape Kob'an. We were given menus and a maraca. The menu is for us to see what we can order. We shook the maraca when we wanted to order. Ok, Christer's snacks have unfortunately run out. He has ordered molletes instead. We sit in a beautiful garden.

17.21 We went for some shopping before returning home. Some fireworks just exploded outside. The snack was great but Christer’s molletes looked strange, a little flimsy.

18.02 We have made a budget for the time we have left the country. The grim fact is that we have too little quetzal for the remaining time. Now we will go outside and to read.

In this café you have to play maracas to get service.

19.19 A drama took part during the reading. A large black insect, moth? had strayed into our neighbor room. It sat on the inside of a window and tried to escape. I opened up a small window more, lifted the curtain and the insect able to fly out. My mattress is wrapped in plastic and it sounds weird when I sit or lie in bed.

20.16 We are watching the U-20 World Cup and the match Colombia - Mali. The score is 1-0. We have also predicted who will be world champion. I believe in France and Christer in Spain.

20.49 We have just seen Colombia win, 2-0. We saw the last goal and heard the final whistle at El Penascal, the restaurant we also visited yesterday. We are waiting for today’s first and last dinner.

21.24 We have just returned to our room. Now we will prepare ourselves and the backpacks for tomorrow. Tonight's big question is will we board the minibus at 10.00 in the morning?

Wednesday 3rd of August

07.16 A man sits by a small table outside of our room. He's looking in a guide book and seems to be waiting for something. Surely it can not be breakfast? We know from yesterday that they do not offer breakfast. Our morning is planned. We are going back to Café Fantasia for coffee and pancakes. There is no panic. Our transport departs at 10:00. It always feels good to have things planned.

07.43 There are persons having breakfast out here after all. Is it so that it is offered today? Is it only for certain rooms? Is it valid only until a certain time? Whatever it is, why wasn’t it said when we asked for breakfast yesterday.

08.44 The pleasant and well-planned morning has come to an abrupt end. We went out for breakfast at the Café Fantasia fifteen minutes ago. We saw a minibus as we got out from the housing and were told that it leaves at 09.00 instead of 10.00. We had to rush out, buy a few pieces of bread and hastily consume them. We are about to pack it last things. Damn .. damn .. damn .. Why has no one told us about this before? We are planning to punish, to hang our young host. It has been generally sloppy in this place, although Christer had arranged with everything through email. It feels as if some substitute staff jumped in and no one knows.

09.06 The minibus came and our young host had a discussion on why it came now and not at the promised 10.00. He may not be hung after all. However, it is a real lack of communication somewhere. The transport and accommodation is after all in the same group, Cobán Travels. Now we're leaving.

09.14 We have stopped at the next pick up location, Pensión Monja Blanca. The two Spanish ladies who want to go from here are as surprised as we were just now. They're packing right now. Outside the open side door stands two men, they are smoking. The smoke is entering into the bus. Oh what a terrible morning.

10.28 Now we stopped in a village. Around us is a market. Everything possible is offered. We are in. .. well the thing is, I do not know where we are. I have no idea.

Our mini-bus has stopped for a refreshment break.

11.50 It is time for a fifteen minutes stop near a small kiosk where two roads meet. The kiosk is under a huge rock. It is sunny and warm here. We have come down to the lowlands and the sun really shines.

13.17 The fifteen minutes stoppage took twenty-five minutes. We just passed a sign saying Las Pozas. The place we stopped at was near the town of San Antonio Las Cuevas. The landscape is flatter, more agrarian and clearly deficient in conifers. I would think that about half the trip is made. We go dead straight north.

13.32 There has been a new stop. We are in Las Olivas. We seem to be a quarantine zone. There is a limit to the province of Petén. The passenger cabin has been checked. They seem to want to avoid, Mosca del Mediteranio. It is a fruit fly that can cause serious problems. All fruit must be presented and verified by the police.

A river has temporarily halted our northern trip.

Time to travel by ferry. Time to step into a hot minibus again. Note the girl with a coconut and a machete.

13.58 A new stop has been made. We have stopped in the community Sayaxché and by the river Rio de la Pasión. We, our transport and other vehicles are waiting for a transport across the river. It is not long distance, but long enough to avoid a skip. Some enthusiastic salesmen open coconuts and sell refreshing coconut milk in the heat.

14.15 Suddenly it was our turn. Christer, I, a few Spaniards and a bunch of Asians, that is who are traveling together today. We now travel on a small barge/ferry across the river. It's hot in the bus today. The driver has been wondering where we're going. We gave him the name of the place and he recognized it.

15.33 Now we rest by the Hotel Jaguar Inn Santa Elena. Some Spanish tourists stand outside and smoke. The driver has once again asked where we're going. OK, now, those who got off got back. They do not like the place and want to find another hotel.

16.16 We went across the bridge, under the portal and came to Hospedaje Yaxha (http://www.cafeyaxha.com/go/) in Flores, today's final destination for us. The city is situated on an island in Lake Petén Itza. The mainland part which is attached to Flores is called Santa Elena. Here at Yaxha, a German-owned archaeological cafe, we were shown to room 24 and now we have showered. Strangely enough I just started to sweat. Soon we'll go out to fix a few things.

16.49 Right now we were handed some written tickets for tomorrow's tour. These were bought in a small agency 100 meters from our accommodation.

17.03 Now we are having a bench break. The tickets which we got earlier takes us on a round trip to the Mayan city of Tikal.

A street in Flores.

This bus likes Sandra, one of the presidential candidates.

17.36 We have started to wander around our island home. In the water behind me the sun is setting. Inside the Café Raices Bob Marley sings "Buffalo Soldier". A couple of tuk-tuks passes and German is spoken not far from here.

17.58 On the wall behind me hangs Guernica. It is not the only work of Picasso here. We are on the Italian-owned Pizzeria Piccasso for dinner.

19.12 Now I've managed to mess things up again. I sat and watched wondering around the restaurant. The good-natured waiter obviously thought that something was wrong and that I wanted something. He immediately came rushing. Once again, I have to think before I act. The waiter responded perfectly logical and normal.

This portal welcomes visitors to Flores.

A man rests on a pier.

18.45 The bill said 109 quetzals and it was corrected by Christer to the correct 112 quetzals. The waiter first looked surprised and then smiled and said "Thank You". We can again hear lizard chat. It feels good that they are back, our gecko friends.

18.52 I took 50 quetzals from the change and Christer took 30 quetzals the remaining and the rest was tip. I promised to balance the difference by buying Christer's drinks. Now we leave the restaurant to make some purchases.

19.32 At the time of the purchase, I had completely forgotten what I promised. I bought my drink and left the store. This had the effect that Christer could not buy anything. One should not leave the store before you know if your friend can do business. It was a double mistake by me. Outside the store, I gave two five quetzals bills to Christer. One of them disappeared without trace from his wallet. It was just not there then he should buy his drinks later. The note, however, turned up as suddenly as it disappeared. It was found along with another five bill in Christer's pocket. We are now temporarily home. It's hot in the room and the ceiling fan does not do much good.

Some people have taken an afternoon dip in the Petén Itza Lake.

20.40 We have been at an internet cafe. Now we are sitting down by the lake promenade. We hope that the room will cool down while we are out.

21.28 It was just a hope. The room didn’t get any cooler. There is not much to do about it. It is time to study about Tikal. Tomorrow much will be seen and done.

22.40 We are waiting for Christer's mobile to be charged. We want to see today's films. It will not get cool in the room last night. All we can is to break down and come back.

The sun is going down in Flores.

Thursday 4th of August

07.05 The night that has passed has been warm. Somehow we have managed to sleep. Today another adventure awaits us. We will go and look at more Mayan ruins.

07.36 The wind fans in from the open door, gate. We are downstairs at Café Yaxha which is involved in housing. We have ordered Maya pancakes and coffee. Coffee in Spanish is masculine and not feminine as I just said.

08.37 It took some time to get the so-called Ramon pancakes. It was well worth the wait. I messed things up for the waitress at the payment. The cost was 66 quetzals and I left 101 quetzals and she had no change, not so smart move by me. Christer stepped in and saved the day. He paid parts of the sum and I just had to leave the remaining amount. We left and went on a hopeless quest for a post office here in Flores. We gave it all up and purchased water. We brought the water home and now we are waiting for the transportation and excursion.

Café Arqueológico Yaxha. Our room is on the second floor.

09.04 We are standing outside, waiting for the transportation which we booked yesterday.

09.10 Our ride arrived and we stepped into a passenger-free vehicle. Now we have made a stop at La Hacienda de Rey. Here, two passengers just joined. Will there be more?

09.23 There were no more. Our fellow passengers are from India and Israel. We have met some from the Holy Land this year.

10.30 The Indian, a guy who lives in Canada and the Israeli, a woman in her 60´s are nice and we talked to them for most of the trip. The Indian guy was irritated by people who are lazy and doesn’t bother to learn although it is so easy to gain information from the internet. The Israeli woman was tired that everyone associated Israel with bombs and riots. She had other experiences. Just now we came to a huge gate and a man jumped on board and offered guidance, which we turned down but the Israeli woman accepted. She did, however, wanted to check with friends that she was going to meet as we arrive. The guide also showed some spice which the Indian knew about. Well the Indians sure know a lot about spices.

Warning of a crocodile, we never saw.

Peter in front of a tree of considerable size.

Information board in Tikal.

10.57 Now we have paid the entrance fee to the temple area Tikal. We looked at the crocodile pond at the entrance but saw no life in it. The sweat runs like rapids. We are heading for the big area. Oops! An aguti just ran past.

11.25 The shadow is cooler than the sunny areas. Behind me is Temple I which has just been photographed. Temple I is also known as the Great Jaguar, and it is 47 meters high. It was built as a funerary temple for Jasaw Chan K'awiil I. He ruled over the area between 682 and 734. We can hear the birds and mosquitos. From the bottom of a tree we hear a buzzing sound. The temple and the whole area is a familiar list. I am mightily impressed by these works.

11.58 We sit and drink near the foot of the Temple II. A short distance away is the Grand Plaza and Temple I. Now we are thinking of climbing up the stairs of Temple II. We are far from being the only tourists here. There are people from all over the world here. Right now we stand next to a Danish family and are watching a bird in a tree.

One of the many forest trails in Tikal.

The Maya´s mighty pyramids hidden in the rainforest.

A view from the top of Temple II.

We investigated the local insect life.

Christer looks small in the company of Temple V.

12.12 The sodas gave us exactly what we needed. They were refreshing, sugary and cool. Now we have climbed three steep wooden stairs and reached the top of Temple II. It is a brisk air up here. Temple II is 38 meters high and built by Jasaw Chan K'awiil I, in memory of his wife Kalajuun Une 'Mo', or if you wish "Mrs. twelve macaw tails".

12.40 Around us is the forest and animals. There are monkeys and insects all over the place. We are a short distance from Temple V. The heat is obvious. The temple was built in the 7th Century, when the king was called "animal head". For a long time, we have studied wildlife in a treetop. What we first thought was a sloth is probably just spider monkeys.

13.03 We have heard strange noises from the forest. It sounded like a saw blade that was working its way through a rough stock. There should be some kind of insect or bird that causes this. We have reached the so-called Seven Temples. Here are seven temples built between 7th and 9th Century.

13.27 A gray fox appeared close to us and the insects remain. We are at The Lost World. Inside one of the buildings here are the remains of a building that was built around 700 BC.

Christer managed to take a photo of this huge insect.

A beautiful beetle taking a walk in Tikal.

Ancient buildings are hiding in the rainforest greenery.

13.53 Some people; including us, some British birdwatchers and some Swiss, have settled along the road between The Lost World and Temple IV. We're here because we need liquids. Imagine how little is needed for developing a sense of wellbeing. Everything would be on top is the insects stayed away or at least bet others.

14.10 Temple IV was not much to see. Sure it is with its 64.6 meters the highest of pre-Columbian preserved building but there was a renovation and the lower parts were overgrown.

15.24 We left it overgrown temple and followed a nice trail and saw a flock of spider monkeys. When the trail suddenly ended so we turned toward the exit of the area. On the way we saw Temple III. In the case of animals we saw coatis and an ocellated turkey, Meleagris ocellata. The big happening as it comes to animals was the bone chilling roar we heard from a tree. We suspect that it was a howler monkey.

15.52 We have left the temple grounds and are now at the complex at the entrance. We sat down at the restaurant here for a late panic lunch before the bus returns. We had strips with cheeseburger for lunch. Now we are back in a mini bus. It's time to go home. More remains to be done today.

Left or right? That´s the question!

We met a fearless turkey.

We managed to eat a late lunch before the return journey.

17.17 The return journey went smoothly. Once back we went to the same travel agency as yesterday. There, we checked about a transport to Belize tomorrow. Sure, there was one but not where and when we wanted. Now we have arranged for a transport to the border and it will pick us up at the hotel at 05:00. We left the office and the polite Oscar to buy something to drink. Now that it's done and we are back in twenty four.

18.33 Our bodies were covered by the first water and than clothing. When this was done we left the room and cleared things regarding the checkout in the morning. Now we have seen more of the city. Next we want to buy drinks and food for tomorrow.

19.03 We bought a little drink to refresh ourselves with. Christer has also bought some travel drinks to bring with him tomorrow and I bought a little adult beverage to take home. Then we had our sodas a woman asked for money for milk for her child. I gave her a five note. It was not smart of me. It is probably not the milk and the five note would be handy when we surf the net later. The stone bench which we sit on is hot even though the sun has set. Two people just got into the lake below us. Earlier in the evening we were offered a taxi. When we refused he added, taxi to Tikal? Who wants to go to Tikal when it is dark? Not us anyway.

19.36 We have found drinks and even something to nibble on. But we have no small bills for the internet. That is something we would have had if I had not given away money.

The church in Flores is located on the island's highest point.

Another beautiful sunset in Flores.

19.43 We're sitting on a bench along the promenade. A mother just called just called for her son, around 4-5 years old. Sure, there's nothing mysterious about it. The odd thing was that it was called Eriksson. We thought about why anyone in Guatemala, giving his son the Swedish name Eriksson.

19.58 It's time for dinner at the accommodation. We have ordered meat to chew on, and when it comes to drinks, smoothies with: orange, pineapple and Chaya, I do not know the English name. Our entire dinner is based on traditional Mayan cuisine. It will be exciting.

21.32 The food and drink was good. There was also some net surfing to. Not much new has happened in the world. However, we have found the English name of Chaya, it might be tree spinach.

Friday 5th of August

04.34 The wake up signal has sounded. However, I do not know how awake I am. I have, with some difficulty, eaten the light breakfast. Now, clothes and backpacks will be put on before we can go.

04.48 We have walked out from the gloom inside the house. I hope that nothing important was left in there. We managed, with help from the instructions we got yesterday, to get out of the cafe and into the street. Now we are waiting for the bus on the little road outside the housing.

05.00 The bus stopped on the main road along the lake near our accommodation. A man came and picked us up so everything is worked out. We went there and boarded the bus. Now we are off. In the east the sun is slowly reaching for the horizon. I will however try to get some sleep. It is at least an hour before we reach the border of Belize.

BELIZE

07.25 It was a dull and partly bouncy bus ride. Eventually we reached the border in the sleepy little village of Melchor de Mencos. The exit and entry stamp went just fine. At customs, there were two paths to choose from, both were red and had the text, Something to declare. A nice customs officer showed me the way. It was simple, I just had to go. Now we are going in a taxi in Christer's 84th and my 90th country, Belize. Now stop the taxi, it's time to refuel. In addition to the driver, we have an elderly gentleman in the car. The driver wanted to drive us all the way to today's final destination but we have for economic reasons asked him to take us to San Ignacio, also known as Cayo. Belize is a country where Spanish and English coexist. The closer to the sea you get, the more English and Caribbean it will be.

07.51 We're sitting on a small apricot-coloured wall in front of Savannah Taxi Drivers Co-Op and Omega Fast Food in San Ignacio. We are waiting for the next bus. During the journey here, we have seen a few people belonging to a religious group who live and dress as in the 1800s. They are called Mennonites and are of German origin. The men we have seen have been blonde, had straw hats and green shirts with suspenders.

08.08 A bus finally arrived. It was, as usual, an old American school bus. We climbed in through the emergency exit at the back. We had to stand at first but now we have sat ourselves down. The bus will take us to the capital, Belmopan, and has a lot of school children on board.

09.16 More Mennonites were seen along the road and one climbed into the bus. Now we have treated ourselves a little snack here on the bus station in Belmopan. We are in the capital, waiting for the next bus. I have also managed to catch a cold.

09.32 On our short time on the bus station, I managed to walk away without telling to Christer first. This made Christer confused and baffled. Christer who is more organized has managed to find out which bus we are going ahead with later.

10.10 We are on track again. Our bus will take us south through our last country on the trip.

10.22 We saw a menonit couple with their child standing by the roadside as we entered the village of Armenia. It was like an image taken from the 1800's. The man, his wife and child were all blond and dressed in clothes which were outdated in Sweden long before grandpa was young.

10.35 It's a good atmosphere on the bus. The driver and the ticket guy jokes, helps passengers on board and from the bus. It is not OK to stand in these buses. The bus didn’t stop to pick up new passengers when all the seats were occupied. It's unusual compared to our experiences from the Caribbean, Vietnam and Honduras, where people are forced into the vehicles.

Chaleanor Hotel, Dangriga

It is stifling hot in Dangriga on this day.

11.48 We are here! The bus stopped outside the city. It could not drive in the town since the Havana Bridge is under reconstruction. We walked over a footbridge and walked to Chaleanor Hotel here in Dangriga. Today's room number is 9. We have beds, toilet and praise, so who knows who, AC. Dangriga, which used to be called Stann Creek has a sense of the Caribbean. The people here remind us of those we saw in the Caribbean islands and even wooden houses here are similar to those we saw during the trip in 2007. The hotel room has a sea view. We can look out over the Bay of Honduras. The bananas are free for the guests. Now, let's have a nap.

13.45 I can not say that we are rested. I know we are hungry. We are at the Riverside Cafe. At first I was going to take a cheeseburger before the clear-sighted Christer informed me that it most likely will be hamburgers for dinner. We have ordered beans, rice and pork/beef and we are drinking Belikin. We have tried beers from all Central American countries. This is probably the best of them all.

14.40 What's done is done. What is done is that we ate the food, withdrew money and bought sodas. One half liter of each of the purchased ran straight right down our throats. It is beautiful weather out there but we do not want to be there. It's too sunny, the blue sky and therefore too hot. You become enormously thirsty and want to refresh.

Christer is in search of an ATM in Dangriga.

15.15 We've been sitting on the balcony and read in our books. I am about to fall asleep. I still need a nap.

16.34 That siesta, nap was just what I needed. It was nice to sleep in our cool room.

17.41 The liquid splashes in the sea before us. We are sitting on a log by the beach. It is high tide. The wind fans nicely and some persons are swimming.

18.03 We left the log and the sea. Now we are sitting on a black stone bench at a patch of grass. Is says Alejo Beni Park on a yellow stone building. Some guys are kicking a football in the distance. The sun is setting while an animal can be heard in the distance.

A quiet moment by the sea.

19.00 We went for some shopping. I just got the sad news that the pig is no more. Instead I have ordered sweet and sour chicken. Christer has ordered chicken with pineapple. The restaurant Xiang Dang Dang Restaurant offers small and large portion. A large portion feeds two people. It's always hard to know where the size of the portion. Now we have to remember to take our malaria tablets when we return.

19.57 Chinese food is good. I did, however get strips to my fried chicken pieces. Now we have paid the bill and the mutual debts are cleared. Some insect bites from earlier days itches like crazy.

21.05 We are zapping around the different channels on room TV. There are over 100 channels from around the world.

21.56 The day ended with a balcony beer. We are wondering why the blacks in this part of the world either listens to rasta-/ska music or rap music. Why do they not listen to synth, hard rock or music from the 50s? Is it due to the fact that no one dares to stand out?

22.54 The National Programme 7 NEWS reports about various crimes that has been committed in the country. They go out with your name, image and crimes of those behind the deeds. There are reports of drug offenses, poaching and illegal logging. They have also told about the names of the victims of crime. Right now it is a national music contest

This evening´s dining place.