25th of July - 31th of July: Košice - Dubrovnik

Sunday 25th of July

06.30 Breakfast eaten. From outside we can hear; a dark voiced man roar, cars, trams and unfortunately rain.

08.00 As it was time to leave, it stopped raining. I put some money in the coffee machine at the station. It accepted the money but didn’t return any coffee. I tried another one with the same poor result. I had to enter the train without any coffee. Here on the train we have (I am sorry to say?) met the American lady we saw in Trenčin. It is a small world! She had without any luck searched for someone to guide her in the mountains. Why need a guide there, it is just to walk?

08.21 By a border again. Once again just a quick glance in the passports. Fact is that the Slovak and Hungarian passport police both looked at the same time at Christers passport. It is cloudy today.

HUNGARY

09.36 The clouds are getting away. It seems to be the all so familiar Hungarian weather.

10.24 I finally got my coffee. A young lady came around with a small trolley. She wanted 36 Slovak koruna but accepted my 35.50. If the machine hadn’t took my money I would be able to pay her, but had I bought coffee then?

10.47 We will reach Budapest in the next ten minutes. What will happen there? Well we will exchange and withdraw money, buy a Budapestcard, travel to our accommodation and check in. After that well we will see.

12.12 This sure had a smooth start. First our metro didn’t go because of renovation of the tracks. A renovation of the tram net forced us to walk two years ago. (6/7 2002) Next little surprise, we had to walk this year as well. It took at least a half eternity before we found an ATM. Now we got money in our pockets and will soon head on. We have to find a subway line that isn’t being renovated.

12.50 This time we had more luck with the metro. Now we are sitting on the tram watching Donau and the parliament. We are supposed to go with this tram for some time before we get off it. Now the driver got off, locked the door and walked away. What is happening? Haven’t we had our share of bad luck today? Wait, he is going to the other end of the tram, to drive the other way, the way we are supposed to go.

13.45 Once again checked in at Vásárhelyi (27/7 2000, 15/7 2001, 6/7 2002). We are living on the eighth floor, room 812. No Donau-view this time but we got a view facing the Gellertmountain and the Citadel. Next, a shower. We have a shower and washing basin in the room but if we need to use the toilet we are forced to get out in the public toilet out in the corridor. We may have returned to an old accommodation but we will try to avoid to go and shop in the same store we been in earlier years. It is open 24 hours a day but a bit expensive.

15.25 We searched without any luck for a place to have lunch near the Youth Hostel. We have climbed a tram to go to the Pest side. Hoping for better luck there.

Map of Pest

15.56 The trip across Donau was prosperous; we walked a little and found a place. We had barely found/looked at it as the owner came out with a smile on his face and invited us. He led us to a table with plates, knives, forks and napkins. Were we expected? Expected or not, we ordered today’s speciality/offer. Bean soup, goulash, salad and capuccino. Total cost of this 1000 forint ($ 5). Why is the small table behind me reserved? Who reserves a table in a small Hungarian restaurant called Sörpatika Gösser at Regi pasta utca 4

17.21 Our host wondered if we cared for schnapps, we said yes please and all of a sudden our meal cost 2000 forint. The schnapps sure was strong. It was some kind of "Grappa". We are now on the tram on the way to Deli Pu. It is the railway station that we will depart from in two days. We will check out the Sarajevo train. We will if it is to bad go to Zagreb instead and go from there by bus to Sarajevo.

19.11 The train has no sleeping car or couchette car. After train checks it was time to find out what the ticket cost. After some waiting in line, the lady before me seemed to talk about all but trains but what to do, I got the information I came for. The trip will cost 13,000 forint. We decided to get to Sarajevo by train.

19.11 The train has no sleeping car or couchette car. After train checks it was time to find out what the ticket cost. After some waiting in line, the lady before me seemed to talk about all but trains but what to do, I got the information I came for. The trip will cost 13,000 forint. We decided to get to Sarajevo by train.

After this it was time to go back home first by metro to the tram station at Batthyány tér. Before we got onboard the tram we saw a man that ran to catch his tram. He suddenly tripped and fell flat to the ground landing on his front. He was quick back on his feet again unharmed, as it seemed. He and we got on the tram in time. By hotel Gellert a Swedish couple got on. They were trying to find the way home to their hotel. I wonder if they were going in the wrong direction. I wished them a happy evening as we got off. One can’t break a tradition this year. We once again ended up in our 24-hours store. (6/7 2002). I think we been here every year we´ve been in town.

23.28 After a fridge cooled beer each has it become time to go to sleep.

Monday 26th of July

08.06 The night has gone away. Rising is another travel day.

09.10 The day is saved. I went down to the reception level to buy morning coffee. The machine was broken. Up away in the distance, I saw a shimmering light. There in the far corner was a café; I had won my coffee thirst fight.

10.54 We were just about to go out on the town to run some errands. Then it began to rain. We will stay in the room until it stops.

12.01 Time to go out and have some things done. Not the best weather but what should one do?

13.12 We visited the Mall. It is magnificent both from outside and inside. Walking around among all the groceries made us hungry so we looked up another favourite place (16/7 2001) in town, Mesterek-Konyhaja at Pipa utca 2/B.

14.00 Delicious food, for me wild boar meat with fried potatoes. Food for both of us cost 3020 forint ($ 16-17).

Szabadság hid (Liberty bridge) in Budapest

15.10 We have been hunting souvenirs. I found a Hungarian ice hockey jersey but it was unfortunately too big. Instead I bought pepper vodka and a T-shirt with the Hungarian national anthem. Christer bought pepper vodka and a MTK Budapest soccer shirt. The pepper vodka is vodka that they put a strong pepper in.

17.43 Rested after some time back in the room. Next a new trip to Deli Pu. This time to buy tickets for the train we must be sitting on in a day.

19.43 All went well with the trip to Deli Pu. All went well there and we got our tickets. All tickets and reservation cost us 13.107 forint.

20.48 It is raining on all the city’s streets, buildings and bridges. This doesn’t bother us at all. We are sitting at Wang´s Restaurant, our "own" Chinese restaurant. We are here for the forth year in a row (16/7 2001, 6/7 2002, 21/6 2003)

22.24 It was more satisfying then tasty. The price of the rice and the main course was OK. I had exotic duck, Christer sweet and sour pork. Time ones again to gather what we own. Tomorrow we will head south.

Tuesday 27th of July

07.41 It just keeps raining. What has happened to heat we are used to in Hungary? We must check out before nine, at 17.45 the train will leave. What shall we do during that time?

09.23 Sitting without a room in the hostels café. It is raining less now. But is still too early to go to the station. Our plans are to hand in our backpacks at the luggage office. Their price is 130 forint for six hours. The idea is to retrieve them around 16.30-17.00, so no handing in before 10.30. Until then, well I don’t know what to do. Right now I am eating breakfast. Well eating and eating, I am drinking coffee.

10.09 After a long wait with lots of trams with Astoria as turning point it finally came, tram number 19 that will take us to Batthyány tér.

The parliament building in Budapest on a rainy day.

10.34 We reached Deli Pu. Next some relaxing for us and time to unhook my small backpack from the big one. After that will we hand in the backpack and have five to six hours free time.

11.25 Backpack handed in. Next to the luggage office was a train wagon that had Police printed on it. We are now going back in to town to stroll along Donau.

12.00 On a bench on the Buda side by the Margaret Bridge end/start we are now. Right now time for short break before we walk up the bridge and to the Margaret Island.

12.46 Back at the Margaret Island. We are watching a playing fountain/ water organ. It is playing classical music.

The fountain on Margaret Island.

14.02 We remained a while on the island. It is hardly any panic today. After that we have strolled along Donau and seen the parliament at close range. Now it is time to have something to eat. I guess it is time to return to another classical place.

15.36 I guess it all was going too well. Batka our classic pizzeria/oasis during the last years (17/7 2001, 7/7 2002 and 21/6 2003) is gone/under renovating. We went back over the river. Got off and walked a little before we reached $tex Alfred. Pizzas ordered.

16.20 Pizzas paid for. Total cost 2650 forint. Now we must go back to the Buda side to buy travel snacks and breakfast before we head back to Deli Pu and leave with the train that departs at 17.45.

17.02 OK we got what we came for, got out and also onboard number 4 tram. Can it just begin to move so that we can get where we want and preferably in time?

17.18 We are slowly moving through the city. We are running out of time.

17.31 We got to the subway station Moszkva tér just to see the subway leave, caught the next one and now we are heading for Deli Pu.

17.43 Got to Deli Pu, strolled well RAN to the luggage-office, got the backpacks, straight to the train, passing wagons 20, 21 and 22, into wagon 424, (I am happy they didn’t go on one number at a time) and down on seats 85 and 86. Now it is time to just relax before the train leaves no panic here.

17.45 The train is leaving.

18.51 The ticket controller just wrote on our tickets. Looking out one can see the sun. Where has it been the last couple of days?

19.28 I walked through three wagons to get me some coffee. For 200 forint I got me an espresso. I went back ever so happy, drank my espresso and then the train stopped and here we are. People are talking in the compartments around ours.

19.46 Back in Dombovar (15/7 2001). Last time we were here, 2001, it was HOT and people screamed about Rock´n´roll, now cooler and more quiet.

20.13 A blood red sun is setting. It is incredible beautiful.

20.31 We reached Pecs. In 2001 we staid in town at Judit Papp (14/7 2001). A hectic activity is going on outside. Are they changing wagons? We got several travel companions. A Hungarian couple, a German speaking man with an Asian travel companion. But the winner is a man dressed in leather, drinking beer and looking straight ahead.

21.27 Stop at the Croatian border. Three Hungarian passport policemen peaked in. The first one took our passports, said "two Swedes" and passed the passports to one of the colleagues. He looked at them and returned them. The third one just followed along, an apprentice? None of the gentlemen stamped our passports. Our hope stands to the Croatians.

CROATIA

21.58 They stamped the passports. Hurrah! But say the joy that last forever. Shortly after a lady looked in to us, we looked back and she got mad and said with an angry face ”Police control”. She pointed at some sign on her arm, I guess she was a customs officer. We had to lift down our backpacks so that she could take a look.

22.12 Time sure moves slow as the train stands still.

22.42 Returned to Osijek (13/7 2001). We were the best guests at a hotel in town three years ago. We were also the only guests. But we got a visit from a bat. All is calm for now. Outside man is shining with a flashlight under the train. What is he looking for?

Wednesday 28th of July

00.08 The only sound in the night, is the sound of a locomotive leaving. I am afraid it is our locomotive. What will happen next?

00.11 A locomotive just passed outside the window and I hear people walking in the corridor and the sound of passports being stamped.

00.14 We just left Croatia. A short stop this time.

00.37 Another locomotive has taken us to another border. We are on the threshold of Bosnia-Herzegovina.

BOSNIA HERZEGOVINA

01.11 It just went fine with the passports, no stamps though. The customs officer seemed pleased. Someone is buying a visa in a neighbouring compartment. Something must remain because we won’t leave from here. The German speaking man and his Asian friend were a bit tired as they asked the customs officer if we were in Bosnia.

01.21 We are moving. I hope the ticket controller will come soon because I want to sleep.

05.30 The ticket controller came at 01.50, turned on the light, checked the ticket and left. I turned off the light and went back to sleep. I am using a rolled bath towel as a pillow. Christer choose four rolls of toilet paper. The landscape is hilly and rain-soaked. Small villages, large villages and other things are passing by. Here and there we can see a mosque. Rain has come in through the window and it is all but warm in the compartment.

07.05 Some things have happened since we got to Sarajevo. The man in the leather suit asked us in perfect English if this was Sarajevo? A gentleman on the platform offered us a place to stay. His knowledge in English was far from good. All he knew was "accommodation", a word he happily repeated again and again during some pointing and humming. I couldn’t understand a word of what he was saying and I wonder if anyone can? We followed him and got into a taxi. The taxi driver took us to Hotel Holiday Inn; we needed to withdraw money. After that to the accommodation centre there he wanted money. A little more then he had said earlier but what the heck. We got Bosnian coffee at the centre. It was served from a small brass pot in a cup without a handle. We also got a room and that’s where we are now. We got access to kitchen and bathroom. All I want to do now is sleep.

11.32 I slept until 11.00. After that I had bath and packed down what we might need on a trip in the town. Here it is all but warm, 16°.

Vecna Vatra - the eternal flame, a monument from World War II, remembering the liberation of Sarajevo.

14.00 We walked around in Baščaršija, the old, Turkish part of Sarajevo. There is a lot to see here. Cosy streets, beautiful churches and mosques. Now we are back in the room having a little snack before we buy postcards and go to the post office. Earlier during today's walk we saw a wedding couple and heard a man call out from one of the mosques.

17.28 Just as we had decided to go to the post office and then dinner it started to rain.

Careva Dzamija (Emperor´s mosque) in Sarajevo

18.43 We finally found a restaurant. "Nacionalni Restoran Kod Keme" is this evening’s choice. We got ourselves a Bosnian beer Sarajevsko Pivo each. Pljeskavica with cheese is ordered.

20.25 Delicious and satisfying dinner. To the pljeskavica it was served French fries and a large bread. Now we are back in the room having our, on Malta bought, instant coffee.

22.45 It has begun to call it a night. It will be nice to sleep in a bed that is soft and stands still.

Sarajevsko, Sarajevo beer.

Thursday 29th of July

09.20 My hopes for a sunny are just hopes. Rain drops keeps falling on our roof. It is all but fun.

10.05 I didn’t win anything on the nameday ticket I had with me. Rain keeps falling at it is 14 ° outside.

11.33 We rushed out in the pouring rain to get us some bread. I got one with sausage. In Christer´s it was jam/marmalade. We are awaiting the end of raining while Christer is sewing the button in his new pants.

13.57 We bought the bus ticket to Dubrovnik, posted our postcards and took photos of the place there the ”Assassination in Sarajevo” took place and some other city views. Now we returned home to check our economy.

The place where it happened, Gavrilo Princip killed the Austrian prince
Franz Ferdinand and his wife, the event that started World War I.

18.53 The planned errands are taken care of. We got tickets for our backpacks and us. Souvenirs and travel buns are also bought.

Baščaršija, the old Turkish quarter in central Sarajevo.

20.08 Back where we ate yesterday. We have, on the waiter’s recommendations, ordered grilled lamb.

21.29 The lamb, grilled or not, was delicious. I said the beer and food was better then in Sweden. Are you Swedes? Asked the waiter. That man he said, pointing at a man in the corner is from Finland. We spoke for a while with the Finnish man before we went to buy the last things and returned home. Next time to pack. Not very funny.

A "Sarajevo rose", a memory from the war.

Friday 30th of July

05.50 We have been here for two days but now it is time to leave. A little left to pack. In eighty-five minutes the bus will roll to Dubrovnik.

06.39 Just reached the bus station. The trip here went fine, but we weren’t able to stamp the ticket in the machine on the tram. Waiting for the bus to arrive. On a digital thermometer it said 12°, all but warm to say the least.

07.11 We watched the bus arrive. They packed in our backpacks and we got onboard. Soon we´ll leave for Dubrovnik.

07.18 We just started our trip. In front of me there are other passengers from different countries. Behind me the clouds are parting.

07.55 Rolling through Terćia. The view from the bus is extra ordinary. Forested hills and picturesque small houses.

08.36 The mountains run steep down towards a river. A feeling of Norwegian fjords and we just entered a tunnel.

08.54 Pause outside Jablonica. We stopped at restaurant Zdrava voda. A cosy place with running water in a small fall, a little creak, revolving two meter high waterwheel and a pond where the water ends up. I don’t know if the water then is pumped back to the fall or. Anyhow here I got me a cup of coffee.

09.07 The water is pumped back and fishes swim in the pond. The waterwheels revolve, with some cogwheels and chains, some sheep on a spit. They revolve over coal

09.34 A car just passed us in high speed. It passed us in front of some policemen that stood on the other side of the road. They checked the speed and waved to the car that stopped.

10.17 Just passed through Mostar. Didn’t see the new “Old Bridge”

11.03 Just reached the Croatian border and we are not alone here. Many cars in line, waiting. We will step out for a short break.

11.22 Break is over, out in the line again. The staffs at the place of the break were all but nice. You just had to step inside the restaurant and they looked all but pleased.

11.36 Passports are fetched. This after that the Bosnian passport police just took a short glance.

11.44 Passports returned. They read the name of the owner before handing it out. I didn’t get any stamp in my passport but I got a passport from New Zealand instead. I gave it back to its rightful owner.

CROATIA

12.24 No lack of nice things to see here in Croatia. High mountains steeping into the ocean.

12.31 Back in Bosnia. Passing the town Neum by the Adriatic Sea. Bosnia’s only connection to the ocean.

12.44 Good bye Bosnia. The second stop was shorter.

14.53 We have after a smooth arrival; gracious navigating past people offering rooms and a spot on finding and use of an ATM in vain looked for our pre booked room in Dubrovnik. I just sat down on a park bench while Christer has gone to the tourist information.

15.14 The tourist information knew where we should go. Our map didn’t match the truth. We reached our new home. Our hostess Diana has asked if wanted a little to drink, Christer asked for mineral water and I wanted beer. I wonder if she heard me cause she just brought, mineral water. According our problems of finding this place. What I consider stairs are here called a street. Our ”street” is just big steps.

The street/stairs? to our accomodation in Dubrovnik.

15.50 Our new room is called Rooms Corak. It can be found at Mljetska 1 in Dubrovnik. Soon time for a shower, shaving and clothes washing. After that it is time to see the city.

17.38 At Pizzeria Leut at Put Republike 3. I ordered Mixed grill with French fries and Christer has ordered Čevapi with French fries. Čevapi is a kind of long, spice meatballs.

19.15 Sitting on a bench in Dubrovnik’s Old Town. Just digesting the tasty dinner. In front of us the sea, the city wall and a mountain. They play card a bench away.

The Adriatic Sea

21.30 Got home via an Internet café and the supermarket ”Tommy”. I will see what I do next, honestly speaking, I am tired. On the way home a “sneezing” car passed us. I guess it had some air in its systems.

Saturday 31st of July

08.50 Just woke out and realised two things. A yellow elephant is looking down at me and my underwear is lying on the paved ground below the window. The landing area, 1-metre away and about seventy centimetres down might be on an area belonging to the neighbours. I had thoughts of climbing down but called it of. The underwear is hanging from the coat hanger I attached them to. They must have blown down during the night.

09.40 Success. The underwear is saved. I hooked, with the help of the buckle on my waistband, on to the hanger of the coat hanger and retrieved the lost item.

11.33 Short stop by the Old Town gate ”Pilegate”. Soon we will enter the town with all its tourists and look at all the great buildings.

11.50 Lots of people between my camera and the views. I think I just have people on my pictures.

Old town in Dubrovnik.

12.07 Time for lunch at Domino. I decided to have grilled squid/octopus. A new animal this year, I am gathering to a minor zoo. Christer chose Spaghetti Bolognese. We got home made fish pate to the bread. Not much joy for me since I am allergic to fish. Now the vegetable soup arrived. It is a part of the lunch we ordered.

13.07 Mouth watering food, to eat to it some ripe salad. We left Old Town again and plan the afternoon.

The entrance to the old town in Dubrovnik.

14.20 With a half litre more fluids in the body we are resting our bodies in the hunt for a place to take a bath. Soon we march on.

15.14 Just got to Copacabana. Seems to be a nice place to swim at but few places to sit down. No great beach but still, ocean, swimming areas.

16.44 No bath today. We decided to go back home and here we are. One get thirsty here despite it isn’t that hot. Could it be that it actually is hot but the sea breeze cools it down?

19.15 The ferry ticket for Monday’s trip to Korcula is bought. Now the evening is being planned.

20.25 Sitting at a pizzeria inside Old Town. Pizzas ordered.

22.26 The name of the pizzeria will remain unknown. I confused the name of the place with the Croatian word for menu. Both were written on the front of the menu. After the pizza began a chase for a cup up coffee for me. We went home after this was done. Almost home was it time to write a new chapter in the history about Christer and the animals (23/6, 30/6, 8/7 2001). A, one decimetre LARGE cricket/cicada jumped and landed on Christers leg. This made him jump to get rid of it.

Christer and a yellow elephant we found in our room in Dubrovnik.