Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson


1st of August - 7th of August: Dubrovnik - Sweden


Sunday 1st of August

09.35 We are awoken after a good night´s sleep. The last week of travel is here. I will be back home come next Sunday. The sun is shining from a clear blue sky. There are no big plans for today.

12.00 Resting on our way in a slow pace towards the Old Town. It is hot today but it is time to start walking again. We passed the fruit market on the way here. Some fruits were crowded with insects, most likely wasps.

On the road to Babin Kuk and the beach "Copacabana" in Dubrovnik.

13.06 Just walked through the Old Town and reached it furthermost point. We are standing, watching the sea, the islands, the people bathing and the boats. The wind is refreshing.

13.34 Sitting on a cliff just below from where I last reported. I am here to get some tan. The waves cluck against the rocks and everything feels so far away.

14.31 Just got out from the town’s aquarium. We seen and got amazed by fishes, eels sea urchins, starfishes, a turtle and an octopus. The turtle seemed to be bored a depressing figure to say the least. I wonder when I will see sea urchins again. Enough about the aquarium, it is time to return to the sunlight.

15.47 Not much walking today. Sitting down filling up with liquids. Everything is just great. We are sitting just outside the aquarium; we didn’t go any further.

16.43 Back by the Pile gate. Just tried to take a picture of the Croatian flag that waves majestically above the gate in the wall that runs around the towns oldest parts.

17.15 Hey, we are getting hungry. We have plans to return to the place we dined at the first day here.

18.00 There will be no return. They are closed on Sundays. But we seen a restaurant not far from there we take the stairs/road up to our place.

18.24 Time for dinner at Porut. If one thing is certain it is the fact that I am hungry.

20.12 Grilled pork chop with French fries for me. Christer choose Cevapi with the same side dish. To drink to tonight’s dinner, as usual, beer. They didn’t charge us for the fries on the bill.

21.43 We are sitting/waiting and await our hostess return and visit to our place. She happens to have our passports. For some reasons the ones renting a room in this country keep the passports. Last time this happened to us was three years ago. (13/7 2001)

23.30 Not a trace of our hostess. We have to solve it tomorrow morning instead. Since we can’t sleep for long tomorrow it is time to say, Good Night.


Monday 2nd of August

07.02 Last morning in Dubrovnik. I am sitting with wet hair looking out of the window. I can’t help wondering what will happen today. Will it be warm and sunny on boat deck, and most of all, will we get our passports back?

07.57 It went OK to get the passports back. Our hostess were sleeping but was asked by her mother/mother in law and soon the passports were back. Now we are in the shadow of the park trees just by the harbour.

08.17 Standing in line at the gate to the harbour area. Inside the gate, well in the sea that is, is the boat we will be going with today. It will take us to Korcula.

08.41 In front of me, a gunwale, an ocean and land, below me the boat Liburnija. Here onboard we will stay for the next hours. We are going with the company Jadrolinija.

09.44 Just been inspecting the boat. Here are many things. They are selling coffee on the deck astern. I took advantage of this and bought me a cup that I drank sitting down in the sun.

10.34 We are moving over an almost calm sea. All is so peaceful. Our fellow passengers are sunbathing, talking, sleeping etc.

11.22 The island Korcula can be seen in the horizon in front. There is still some time before we reach port. I am feeling a bit tired, perhaps because of the sea air, perhaps because of the heat.

12.25 Our ferry is about to reach Korcula town. It is a beautiful view. The town is by the sea with a hill with trees in the background. We will, as soon as we reach land, try to find our pre booked place. Would be great to have an address.

Korcula town, on the island Korcula.

13.31 We began with walking in the wrong direction. But the town ended and we went back. After that it was easy to find our place. The last guests had just checked out and our hostess needed to clean the room. We just had a short glance of the room as we put down our backpacks. We went out on the town and have landed on the restaurant Briskula. I am waiting for grilled chicken fillet and Christer for Cevapcici. Korcula is claimed to be the birthplace of Marco Polo.

14.09 During out meal a big male cat came walking down the street. He looked like he owned at least half the town. A cat that came the other way decided to turn back and run away. The food is delicious and as soon as we paid for it we will return back to our place. I wonder how it is?

15.15 Home in our incredible room. Balcony, air condition, private bathroom, access to a refrigerator, plenty of space, large bed and a line with clothes pines. HIGHEST points. The name of this paradise, Villa Depolo.

16.10 We are feeling like new persons after we had a shower. The new persons feel ready to explore our new hometown. I have plans to exchange my Hungarian and Slovenian money for a, in this country, more useful currency.

16.20 I just was inches from falling down the stairs up to our home. I missed a step but got a hold on Christer.

17.22 I finally got to exchange my money. The guy at the post office counted the money I wanted to exchange five, six times, wrote down all serial numbers, counted the money again and then gave my the Croat money. During this an old lady next to me tried to send a letter to USA as fast as possible. The girl at the counter said she could send it Express and that it would take one week. The lady kindly but firm mentioned that one week can’t be Express. The second alternative that is two to three days couldn’t be taken care of before the next morning. This because that the lady that took care of this kind of letters wouldn’t be there until then. They also needed the phone number of the sender and receiver. To really complicate it all said the girl that the old lady had to come there in the morning to fix it. The lady replied with that if you are 85 you don’t bounce out of bed in the morning. She asked if it was possible to send a younger relative instead. This was possible. I returned to the daylight there Christer was waiting. He had during my time inside the post office seen a religious procession with a priest, a golden shrine and a couple of nuns.

The gate to Korcula´s old town.

18.37 After our adventures in and around the post office was it time to see the Old Town. We walked through alleys and over squares. We saw among others the Markus Church and what’s claimed to be the house there Marco Polo was born. We are now back to rest.

19.00 We just heard a strange sound outside the door. Could it be from some other living in the house?

20.14 Back out on the town to find places for dinner and bathing, not necessary combined. We got an answer to what we heard, as we were about to leave. Our hostess had also missed a step; she didn’t have the same luck as I did. She had fallen down the stairs and was about to "talk" to her husband that hadn’t fixed the lights. We just seen a wonderful sunset and later the same procession that Christer seen earlier. It might have been a relic from some saint that they carried. What ever it was, it came in a boat covered in leaves. Right now it is time for a little pause in a park.

Sun going down on Korcula.

20.43 Pizza is the dinner choice. Christer choose a Hawaii and I a 07.30, YES, it is its name.

22.00 This meal was just what we needed. Next time to relax with an evening beer and then sleep. Christer has bought some green jelly, fruit shaped, candy. I suspect they are not ripe because they taste strange.


Tuesday 3rd of August

09.20 One sure sleeps well here. A perfect and excellent place to stay. Next some breakfast I bought, juice, milk, bread and cheese.

10.30 The view from our doorstep is breathtaking. A beach, the sea and a bit further away main land with a mighty mountain.

Morning view from Villa Depolo.

12.00 Just been out and took some photos. Next some bath and tanning. We bought something to eat on the beach. We also bought tickets for Thursday journey to Split.

13.05 Lying down on a rocky beach. The sunrays reach us through hays. The clucking waves are almost soothing.

13.46 I had almost fallen asleep then Christer invited me to pat some sea urchins. It is nice to see them in the wild as well. Hard and sharp pricks on the small fellows. Christer just bumped his foot into one of them and got a prick in his heel.

15.16 We found a crab since I last reported. It is living in a small well just below our feet. We also heard and seen an ice cream truck. Christer has with help of a nail cutter tried to operate the part from his heel.

15.55 This is too much tanning for one day. Time to wash the salt from the body.

17.44 Lots of tanning makes the body weak. But no rush here. We just have to find a new place to swim, preferably without sea urchins, have dinner and buy breakfast. The operation has carried on without any luck.

19.31 After passing barbecue places and restaurants serving spaghetti our trip ended up at a pizzeria. We just sat down at Pizzeria Fortuna. Sitting by a table with sea view.

20.47 What is there to say about our dinner? Stomach filling, YES, tasty sensation, NO WAY. But they offered me coffee to sip on. In other words not bad at all. Right now Christer started the air-condition. We are at home as you understand.

21.10 There is a success in the removing of the sea urchin part. The last piece was cut in half and removed.

22.27 A lazy night tonight. Lying and listen to the radio feeling the heat from our tanned bodies. My skin is slightly red.


Wednesday 4th of August

09.30 There is still some heat in my skin. I guess I better keep a low profile with the tanning today.

11.00 It has become time to pay for the say before we go out for sightseeing.

12.18 We didn’t get the chance to pay. So we decided to just walk around and play it cool. We are currently in the same park as the other night. I can still feel the tan, besides from that all calm.

13.46 Two foaming Ozujsko just arrived. I guess the spaghetti will follow soon. From the loud speakers we can hear ”It’s now or never” with Elvis Presley. The luncheria is called Luna.

14.33 The music at Luna has raised some questions. Who was the first to record ”Killing me softly”? Who made a cover on ”The tide is high”? By the way Spaghetti Bolognese was jummy.

16.00 In our home and room we are now. Gathering powers to go and swim

The yellow house on the picture is "Villa Depolo".

17.29 We both went for a swim. Today it was my turn to place my foot on a sea urchin. A small prick/thorn stuck in a toe on my right foot. Whatever it’s called the evil black one is removed with just some small bleeding.

19.16 Our hostess came by and money has switched owners. She got 321 kuna from each of us.

19.39 We are sitting at Planjak awaiting our dinner beer and food. The scent of grilled meat reaches me. I choose Dalmatian steak and Christer pork chop with cheese. I have to end here, our beers arrived.

21.51 Walked around in the Old Town after dinner before we sat down on a bench by the sea and talked about earlier trips. Now we are back home having some sweets.

23.14 It is time to go to bed for the last time in/on Korcula. This place is one of the best this year, perhaps THE best.


Thursday 5th of August

09.55 Most things are packed. Think how many times and on how many places one has packed this year. Now just one place to pack on remains this year. In two hours are we supposed to be on/by the ferry.

11.31 We left the key in the door and our latest home behind us. It sure is tough to carry a backpack with tanned shoulders. We are sitting in our old park awaiting the arrival of the ferry Marco Polo.

11.38 A tooting was heard and Marco Polo arrived at the port. It, according to us, arrived from the wrong direction or does it run on the route Split- Korcula- Split?

12.24 We found a place to sit at. Here we will, with some exceptions, remain until we reach Split. The anchor is still down. There are instructions on car deck on how a driver shall act. They are written in English and SWEDISH. Has our boat ran in Swedish waters or?

14.27 We are slowly travelling over the Adriatic Sea. The sunshine, the sound from the waves and the throbbing from the engines make me sleepy.

14.52 There is no doubt there we are now. Hvar is passing us on starboard side. Unfortunately we are seated on the port side.

Going in to Stari Grad harbour on the island Hvar.

15.05 The positive thing. There are both a restaurant and a self-catering part in a café. The negative. Non of them are open. We are hoping for an opening in this question.

15.55 As I was filling up on my caffeine supply the boat took the chance and anchored on northern Hvar. It is a forested part of the island that I see from there I am sitting. From the forest one can hear a humming sound. I think it is crickets/cicadas. Just near us is Stari Grad, one of the towns on the island.

17.00 We left Hvar a bit after schedule. I left my place in the sun and asked when the self-catering and/or restaurant opened. The answer I got was cryptic to say the least. They open for dinner if there are anyone that want to eat.

17.22 Forget grilled food for dinner. We bought a ham and cheese sandwich with soda each. I can see our destination. Yet some evidence that the boat has Swedish connections. There is a sign in Swedish saying that the Ferry Company has no responsibility if the clothes get dirty from the chimney.

Views from a Croatian ferry-trip.

17.46 Land is getting closer. There are some questions to be answered. Where shall we sleep to night? Will we arrange with a private room in the harbour? Will we go to the tourist information? Whatever the choice, our new home must be central located. On Saturday it is time to go to the airport and it is good to be near the airport bus station.

18.49 We reached Split. We hadn’t even reached car deck before a kid offered us a room. He showed us off the ferry and to his father. The father took us to his parents’ place at Kneza Viseslava 17. Cost for the room, 140 kuna per night and traveller. Next time to change clothes before we take a walk on the town. What happens there? Well I guess we find out. Outside our window is a man sitting on a chair, staring. Since we are staying on the top floor it must mean that this man with a long beard is sitting on his roof. Is he a brother to the prophet in Ancona?

22.08 After paying it was time to walk the streets of Split. Pretty soon we found an ATM. After that a short in the older parts of town before we, hungry, went to restaurant Nautilus. Christer kept on with his Cevapi. I decided to increase my little ”zoo”. The latest animal is turkey. After that we went buying some food for evening and breakfast. Speaking of that, why is it that bottles in plastic bag refuses to stand up? I been out on the terrace and washed my clothes.


Friday 6th of August

07.36 Just woke up and been out on the terrace. The clothes I washed yesterday are drying up. The sky is cloudy today. That is good if you want to stroll in the town. It is bad if one is up for a bath. Whatever the weather and whatever happens today, I slept well. I see if I go back to sleep or do something else.

11.07 We were just about to go out as our hostess offered us coffee .Who can say no to an old lady? Who can refuse coffee? I can’t at least. In the kitchen are beer- and soda cans from different countries and eras. Our coffee was boiled on a gas stove. The lady talked to us in a mix of English, German, Italian and Croatian.

12.36 After the coffee we walked through Diocletsianus old palace area. I doubt that the old emperor would recognise this place. Here they all kinds of tourist things. We are currently in the harbour. Above us lots of clouds. A man just passed a man with a T-shirt from the Bus Company at Malta. Are we back on square one? Is the circle completed?

Water coming from a "hand" in the wall. This strange fountain is found in Split.

14.02 We just ended our pizzalunch at Maslina. The pizza was just enough. The sun is peaking out from the clouds. Time to buy souvenirs and gifts. The waiter just got paid.

15.25 Back on a bench by the sea. We saw, just before sitting down, one of the many ladies that rent out parts of their homes to tourists. Right now we are looking over our budget. How much money will be spent before we head home tomorrow? We also been at the tourist information and asked from there the buses to the airport depart. They depart not far from here. Perfect! The sea sure smells bad!

Marmontova, pedestrian street in Split.

17.27 A park appeared on our way home and we decided to be seated. We have been shopping for the last time, breakfast and a little to bring home to ourselves and near and dear ones. Not far from here is the statue of Gregorius from Nin, a 10th century bishop that fought for using ancient Croatian in the liturgy. To touch his large toe is believed to bring you luck and prosperity. It sure was polished! I guess that we in a short while most likely perhaps will be heading home.

Gregorius from Nin

18.51 Here we are packing furiously. What shall be packed and where? Questions are raised. What can one pack in the cabin luggage? What can I pack in the bottom of the backpack? The next time I see these things will be in another country. A country there I don’t have to look for, transportation, places to stay, places to eat and other stuff. One of the best things with this place is “our” terrace. Just perfect to out on and lines to hang the washed clothes.

20.28 Seated at restaurant Grgur not far from the gate where the old bishop’s statue is. Rump roast ordered to me. Christer choose pizza.

Peter standing in the street in Split. The last photo from this year.

21.00 The food arrived recently and I ma enjoying it full time. A large portion that’s tasty, just what I wanted.

22.34 My rump roast with French Fries and beer plus coffee and Croatian brandy was a perfect final. Merry as ever we began to walk to the airport bus station. Here the fun ended. You can go with the bus to the airport. But only if you fly with Croatian Airlines. We who are flying with SAS must use the local buses. We navigated us to the towns’ bus station. From there we tried to find an easy way home and also to remember it until tomorrow. Can be nice to know it tomorrow morning as we leave for the airport around half past eight. At least I hope so.

23.37 We will in the next twelve hours be, if all goes well, on the plane to Stockholm. It is time for the last night on the trip. Lights out and head for bed. We have plans to wake up in seven hours. One must fall asleep to be able to wake up. To go to sleep will be tough it is warm in the room. I will go out on the terrace to cool down.


Saturday 7th of August

06.40 First phase, link of the journey home is here. We are awakening. Although tired I must have breakfast before I pack the last things.

07.20 Just adding the final touch to the last details. Most things are packed, finished, eaten. I just need to rest awhile before we leave our last home.

08.05 It happened just as we were about to leave our last home. Our hostess began to offer us coffee. We tried to say no to it but she wouldn’t take no for an answer. I used a white lie saying that Christer had a bad stomach but I could have a cup. I quickly drank it all and I am glad that it was far from warm. After that followed good bye and wishes from her and lots of thanks from us. As this was over our walk to the bus station began and here we are now after a slow walk. The end is near.

08.45 We have travelled with the bus for a while. We are far from alone on this ride. The backpacks are a bit away and they are not lonely either. The other passengers’ belongings, bags, suitcases and luggage accompany them. The trip cost 14 kuna for me and 28 kuna for Christer. I think the reason for the different sums is this that Christer has paid for himself and his backpack. I just paid for little old me.

09.25 We got to the airport in good time. The backpacks are prepared for the flight and I guess that so are we. However things might be, all we can do is wait to check in.

09.58 Next time we see our backpacks is this afternoon. The place for the reunion is hopefully Arlanda airport. There was a sign next to the counter where we checked in. The sign asked the passengers to kindly remove their batteries from their machines in the luggage. Why? How? They might already be packed down real deep.

10.19 We are standing by a railing one floor above there we got entered. Overlooking the entrance. There are no empty seats here. I just had to stand up as I drank my coffee. We have plans to pass the customs office and find a seat by the gate.

10.45 We are ready to leave the country. I have to leave my old pocketknife behind. I bought it on our first trip in 2000. I had forgot to put it in the luggage that I checked in earlier. I had instead placed it in my dressing-case in the cabin luggage. But what have I lost; a blunt knife, a useless screwdriver and a crappy beer opener. I could have lost something more valuable. I am really impressed at the security system at the airport. The security man saw my small knife as he x-raid my luggage. Soon it is time to board the plane.

11.21 Looking out the window of Blenda Viking. Seat 24C for Christer and 24A for me. Soon time for take-off.

11.47 We are still on the ground. The aeroplane is having technical problem. They are talking to some technicians in Copenhagen. I hope they can solve it this way. I don’t want to sit and wait from the technicians to get down here. I wonder what’s the problem? Well it can’t be my knife it is still at the airport. Can it be our batteries? There is always something wrong as I am supposed to fly home with Snowflake. Last year it was a suitcase without an owner (17/7 2003). We are waiting. But we can’t wait for so long. There are a train and a bus to catch in Stockholm. Would be nice to have a little to eat before we embark them. The food on the aeroplane can only be paid with Swedish, Norwegian and Danish crowns, British pound, euro or dollar all according to the pamphlet in the seat pocket in front of me. We can’t pay with the Croatian currency kuna so I hope I can use the dollars I got left.

11.57 Problem is solved. We are just awaiting a new permit to start.

12.05 Ok, new take-off time around 12.20 is lift off. The captain has, perhaps to please us, allowed calling home until then. We are running out of time when it comes to dinner, but who knows they might let us have dinner for free on the plane. Well I sure don’t think so; they didn’t give anything to us on the way to Malta.

12.36 We left Split behind, below us, one hour after schedule. Below us sea and land and left of us, clouds. In here, passengers that read and rest. Right now information about food, beverage and things they sell. They say the weather in Sweden is great.

12.59 One can’t buy food and/or beverage for dollars. I guess we have to wait with the eating until we are back on the ground. We are supposed to land around 15.15. When follows, leaving the plane, pass the passport control, luggage trail and customs office. I sure like to get to Stockholm in time before the bus ride home. Christer has less time. His train departs at 16.50. He must before that withdraw money and claim his ticket.

14.15 As I look out I can see the south of Sweden. Wherever I see I can see a tree.

14.51 Twenty minutes before landing. What events, surprises await us there?

SWEDEN

15.09 We landed and rolled to the gate. But there is no one there to open up and let us in. What will happen next?

16.34 They let us out of the plane; we waited for our luggage, passed the customs office and went to Sky City. Here we withdraw money, phoned home, Christer got his ticket and we went for dinner at Alfredos. Our dinner didn’t start that good. We sat down in the wrong restaurant. We solved this little problem really easy. After dinner was it time to say thanks and bye for this time and I am now on the Arlanda Express to Stockholm. Had no time to buy a ticket so I do it here onboard.

16.52 Christer caught his train and went to Östersund to rest for some days and get rid of his shoes. We know what happened as Saddam got a hold on weapons of mass destruction. Better play it safe.

17.07 The ticket was 180 kronor. I am currently by gate 28 at the bus station City terminal. Outside the gate is the Y-bus that will take me to Härnösand.

17.16 Sitting on the bus with my backpack in the bus trunk. Will leave from here in fifteen minutes.

17.52 The bus rolls northbound. Not as many passengers as I expected.

20.00 Time for a ticket control. How will it go, am I on their list?

20.02 After some looking on my list the lady found me there. I can travel on. Three and half-hours left.

23.12 31 kilometres left to Härnösand. All is over for now. Last year I got home worn and wasted. Now I return thrilled and excited.


You can find 7 photos from August 1 in this photoalbum.
You can find 7 photos from August 2 in this photoalbum.
You can find 5 photos from August 3 in this photoalbum.
You can find 4 photos from August 4 in this photoalbum.
You can find 6 photos from August 5 in this photoalbum.
You can find 16 photos from August 6 in this photoalbum.


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