Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson


4th of July - 10th of July: Messina - San Marino


Sunday 4th of July

08.30 It has been a warm night. Filled with sounds from outside and blood sucking flying bugs in here. Time for liquids and yoghurt.

09.51 To buy a ferry ticket was easy, we just had to pay 1 euro each. The tricky part was to find a machine to validate the tickets. We are now resting before boarding. Two Italians are singing lovesongs a bit from here.

10.12 Just boarded the car ferry that will take us over the Messina straight and to the Italian mainland. We are sitting on a bench and enjoying the sunshine. Leaving Sicily behind us to travel up through the Italian "boot".

On the ferry leaving Messina.

11.02 Just got off the boat and walked a short walk to the station in Villa San Giovanni. Next about an hours waiting.

11.50 I got myself an espresso. The man before me got a drink with one big amount of gin. Well it actually was two big amounts, the bartender added some more. The man’s friend used one of the cafe chairs as a “driver´s wheel” and got the comment ”Calma”.

14.06 A magnificent landscape is passing by. On one side the Mediterranean Sea on the other soft rounded hills and mountains with trees.

14.11 Arriving at the station in Paola. About three hours left.

14.50 We entered one the longest tunnels I ever been in just after we left Paola. It is on the line between Paola-Cosenza and it took at least 20 minutes to travel through it. It is the 24th longest in the world and is about 15 kilometres long. We got this fact after we got home. We are no longer following the coast. We are instead going Northeast.

16.10 I can sea again, sorry see the sea again, this time in the south. We reached the arch of the Italian boot.

18.11 In the room in our new palace. Ok that went wrong. New hotel should it be. This time Hotel Sorrentino in Taranto. Our tap ”screams” as we turn on the water in the washing basin. Our hostess has warned us about the dog outside the hotel. It is supposed to bite. The ocean is just under our window and we got a view over the railway station and also some industry there flames can be seen now and then. Most probably burning gas.

View from our window at Hotel Sorrentino.

19.45 We paid for the room. 14 euro/night/man. Next to find is a grocery store, so that we can buy breakfast, a restaurant so that we can have dinner and a place with a TV so that we can watch the final of the European Championship of soccer.

21.35 No grocery store, No TV-place. We have to listen at the small radio again. We did though find a place for dinner, tagliatelli and tortellini was served. We had our dinner at "Amstel Birreria" which is at the pedestrian street. Close to the entrance sat a man with a grim expression, it seemed like the waiters showed him something. Did the local Godfather send him or is he just a bookkeeper? Christer got fooled as he ordered mineral water to the pasta. He was brought a 2-litre bottle. Here at our place, things are far from calm. Our hostess is yelling at the host/husband. Why one might ask? Well we don’t know.

22.06 Covering second half on the final. Listening to partly an Italian partly a Greek sports commentator depending on the quality of the transmission. The Greek reached falsetto after Greece scored 1-0 and then speeded up.

22.35 Greece won.


Monday 5th of July

09.30 Woke up from a good and needed sleep. We will walk to a café to get us some breakfast. After that will the traditional photos be taken, not of us, but of the town.

11.28 We just bought an ice cream each, it is also a breakfast. We are sitting with the sun in our back, the sea to the right and the old to the left.

13.01 At last, we found a useful grocery store in this town, a nice little store with an elephant as their logo. We are eating lunch on a bench. I am having Cola and apple and Christer is having melon, yoghurt and Fanta.

Via d´Aquino, the street through central Taranto.

15.10 The siesta drained the town on people and life. The shops closed at 13.00 and left us more or less alone in the city centre. We took some pictures of views and chose to retiree inside our cool hotel room. It is 33-34° outside. We bought something to drink and will remain here until the sun has settled down.

19.00 One can´t lie here all day, evening, time to go out for dinner. I must confess that the heat here holds down the appetite.

21.52 After visiting an Internet café, it was time to revisit last evening´s dining place, Amstel Birreria. Tonight´s choice was pizza and beer. Next mission will be to make it cool in our room. Window and door is open, wide open.


Tuesday 6th of July

09.06 Sitting by the side of the bed, I will soon prepare for today's adventures. It is tonight that the ferry to Albania will leave with us onboard.

09.46 Below our window an old man has prepared himself to dive. He has started an old kind of air pump, strapped on a led belt and gone under the surface connected to a blue air hose. I guess he is looking for some shellfish at the bottom.

The diving man below our window in Taranto.

11.49 Just before we left the motor stopped for the man and he surfaced. He wasn’t able to make it start again and left, giving up his search. We on the other hand managed to the get to the station. Here we are with fresh tickets to Bari. We also used vending machines to buy things. I bought coffee and Christer bought an ice cream.

14.46 At the station in Bari, it is time to hand in the backpacks at the left-luggage office. We will from now on be living in ”Littleman”. That is what we call the small backpack that I own. It is usually attached to the big backpack. We are also taking two plastic bags with us on our trip to Albania.

15.32 The backpacks are handed in and we are at the post office. It is far from easy to send postcards from this country. Which counter is for which purpose?

18.30 We have finally after passing several clothes- shoes- perfumeshops found a supermarket. Later we will have dinner before we embark the ferry.

19.07 Sitting by a square and hope for a nearby pizzeria to open soon. Are both tired and sweaty. We sure walked today.

19.30 We just looked at some kids that seemed to have declared war with the pigeons of the town. The kids did their best to scare away the birds. The troops of children were ordered to fall back by their commanders/mothers. The pigeons won the battle but will they win the war? Time for dinner.

20.30 We had an excellent dinner at pizzeria Si. I was so hungry, eager, that I managed to break my fork in the pizza, it was made of plastic, the fork that is. We are now sitting outside the terminal checked in and waiting. Soon we will get on the ferry and find our cabin. In front of us some Albanian kids are playing soccer and we´ve seen a car from France. We are not the only ones with plans to go to Albania.

21.12 We passed the customs office and entered the boat. We located the reception and were guided to cabin 124. Will we be alone here? Four beds but two towels here. That is positive. The lady in the reception wondered if we were from Kosovo or Albania. Isn’t it common with Swedes on this ferry line?

23.00 Soon time to leave all so light and we will go to sleep all night. For a sleeping place we won´t be forced to fight.


Wednesday 7th of July

06.05 Looking out of the window, seeing the sea. Towards Albania are going we. I wonder what we there will see?

07.15 I think we will reach port around 08.00. I asked the man in the reception if we were to keep cabin and key for the return journey. He began with offering me the key that unlocks the toilet door from outside, and then he didn't understand a thing. Suddenly he got it. Key and cabin are to be kept. He also told me that we would reach Durrës in an hour.

07.38 The key was just collected. We can’t keep it after all. It looks like we will have to carry our stuff today. Would have been better if we could have left it in the cabin.

08.05 Just reached Durrës. We filled in cards for our in and out journey to Albania and left our passports in the reception. When will we see them again?

08.31 I think the passports just left the ferry. But we are still onboard.

ALBANIA

09.38 Got off the ferry ever so slowly and walked into town. We began with passing a dock area walking by a wall there some kids sat and looked at us with curious eyes. One of the first things we saw as we reached the more central parts was a man that sat on the pavement. He had a BIG pile of money in his hand and offered us to exchange. We didn't fully trust him and went to an exchange office instead. We used some of that money to buy us something to drink. Right now are we drinking the sodas and looking at a map of Durrës.

Durrës, Albania.

11.11 Sitting on a square/open area by the sea. Facing a monument from the communist days. Today is yet another day with temperatures over 30°. I suspect that we will freeze if it drops below 20°. I can, if I look up to my right see king Zogs summer palace.

Near the sea in Durrës, 38°, hot!

Christer resting in the Albanian sun.

13.04 Sitting outside a small restaurant and having a beer. All is great. Time to write some postcards. We are sitting secluded from the street, around us trees and behind us a little pond. I feel that we can remain here for some time. We are having German beer. The towns mosque have been renovated mostly thanks to Yusuf Islam or as he was formerly known, Cat Stevens. He donated £ 160,000 or $ 288,000.

15.35 I think it is between 36° and 38° in the shadow. We are drinking soda and sits in the cool wind. You can feel the burning heat as the winds calm down. We just have been to the post office it was guarded by a man with a machine gun.

16.37 Sitting at Bar Torro sipping on our just arrived beers. We couldn’t have Shish Kebab so we ordered beef. The beer, which is Albanian, sure beat the thirst.

17.35 The food was tasty. We got three big slices of meat plus ½ lemon, just what we needed. My search for a toilet might have rended out waiter a good laugh. A lady passed us out in the street during the meal. She was really mad about something. Screamed and yelled at something that we couldn’t see and also spoke to herself. She didn't pass the area unnoticed.

18.47 Sitting outside the terminal waiting for them to let us check in. We bought water and Fanta to conquer our thirst. The man I bought water from offered my bottles from a big fridge.

19.29 We are welcome to check in around 20.00. During our time here has a lot of Mercedes passed. It seems to be the most popular car here. Popular isn’t enough, every second car is a Mercedes. I think it is because they run on diesel. I want a cabin, have a long cold shower and change clothes.

View from Durrës, near the ferry terminal.

20.05 The tickets been looked at and we have checked in.

20.10 In line to have our passports checked. The couple before us got by, then the light went out in the passport-checking house. Everything stopped and an alarm is sounding. The guys that look at the passports seems to be familiar with this, they look relaxed, no panic here.

20.30 Lights came back and another couple passed before it got dark again. This time no long waiting time and we got checked as soon as the light came back.

20.40 Standing outside the ferry, waiting to board. The lights went out again in and around the passport-checking house. I feel sorry for those who are inside.

21.25 They let us in/on ten minutes ago. Passports double-checked on car deck. We went to the reception and then to cabin 121. Sweat mixed with sun block and who knows what has given me an extra skin. I need to shower. Christer bathes his now red arms with water.

21.46 ”Gillette the best a man can get” That might be true but one thing is certain a refreshing shower sure is great. I am out off here to buy me some coffee for my last Albanian money.

22.53 They didn't let me buy coffee for Albanian money they wanted euro. It is time to sleep. Today sure has been special. Durrës is a warm town. The Albanians we met were nice and serviceminded. I just wish we had left port at 22.00 as scheduled.


Thursday 8th of July

06.40 A new morning on a ferry. Italy and Bari are the first goals of today.

ITALY

09.16 Back in Bari and on a bench under a palm tree. Next breakfast and then the station to get our backpacks and buy tickets.

10.00 Christer just came back from buying tickets. The security guards by the ticket office had a hard work with some Americans in the queue. They liked to cut corners, climb over ropes and other stupid things.

Eurostar-train in Italy.

15.56 We just arrived at Ancona after a long trip in a modern Eurostar-train. We went straight to the youth Hostel but just had to turn back. They had siesta. We went to restaurant Pizzy instead and bought one of their offers, Pizza, fries and Coca-Cola. The guy behind the counter asked if we liked Coke and I said yes. That joker of a man smiled and said that they don’t sell drugs.

17.38 A slightly confused man has booked us in at Hostel Ancona. Our room key is also for the bathroom. I am in the need of new pens, the old ones have dried out.

19.32 Christer has borrowed me his pen. I am able to carry on writing. Breakfast and evening beer is bought. We are right now relaxing under some trees. One of the passing ladies just looked at us and crossed her.

21.49 Home again after having a soda and visited an Internetkafé that also offered makeup. Together with the computers were also lipsticks and other stuff.

22.56 Here at the Hostel is a man with an odd stare goatee. We wonder if he might be a prophet.

23.59 It is time to go to sleep. I wanted to brush my teeth but used sun block instead of toothpaste. I managed to see it in time. I wonder if sun block stops the teeth from getting brown.


Friday 9th of July

08.25 My cell phone just rang. Its mission was to wake us up. It has nearly done it. We are slowly waking up. Today's big plan is to reach a beach. It is going to be nice to swim in the sea.

09.23 I´ve been and prolonged our stay here. The man in the reception, the confused one, finally managed to find us in the papers. I said I wanted to pay for the room and he just pointed at a sign saying that they open in the afternoon. I understood, I guess, that that is paying time.

09.40 I just left the room and went down the stairs, totally incapable of hearing Christer calling me. I was craving for coffee. I needed my dose of coffee before things went back to normal. Another proof for the prophet, he speaks unclear and impossible to understand has both a T-shirt and a postcard with a Madonna.

11.16 Back at Pizzy this time for lunch. It is lunchtime for us but is it that for Italians? I got two slices of pizza and Christer got one. His other slice and out fries are supposed to arrive in three minutes. I gave up after the doubled time and fetched the pizza. The fries will need another minute. Fast food?

Ancona

12.37 We got our fries, at then and went into town. We studied the Italian way of advertisement to the households. It is not delivered to people. They can instead pick it up from a box near the entrance. This system makes sure that only the ones that want it get it.

13.18 Pause to clear out where we go for the swim. It is hard to find out where to buy the bus tickets, not a ticket office in sight. Can we buy them on the bus? We have also been at the post office. Stood a long while in queue just to find out that the stamps are sold in another place in the office. We posted the cards in a hole in wall. Hoping that they reach their destiny.

13.56 The ticket problem is solved. We bought it onboard the bus, at I suppose higher rate then if we bought in some ticket office or similar. On the way to sun, sea and salt swim. I hope we can stay there long and that we will get some sun.

15.38 Our ticket was to Sirolo but we got off to late and ended up in Numana. The trip here went through a hilly, beautiful landscape. We saw among others Anconas football ground. We are now lying, frying in a sun chair each. Next to us the waves are rolling in. The chairs were expensive but who cares when we will get a tan?

16.07 African salesmen have visited us. One asked if Christer spoke English, Italian, German or French. He left after he got the answers, without giving Christer any offer. Another one did his best to sell me something. I said ”No” again and again and shook my head just as many times before he finally left. Christer has also left, to the sea.

On the beach in Numana.

17.44 We swam in the sea and happy are we. We are waiting for the bus home to Ancona.

19.20 At home, and paid for next night, had a shower and will also buy tickets and breakfast. There will also be dinner.

21.47 We had dinner at Pizzy, third time in a row if I am not mistaken. We are now slowly walking around and has just passed a small market. It is just 26 degrees now. A big discovery was made at the train station. We can buy tickets in wendingmachines. An excellent way of buying tickets with out standing in line at some ticket office. This shall from now be our way of buying tickets.

22.55 We have got a roommate. Hard to understand what he is saying and harder to understand where he is from. It seems like he wanted to sleep and we took our sodas and candy and went down to the TV-room. It is soon time to hit the sacks, final packing tomorrow.


Saturday 10th of July

07.18 It has been fifteen minutes since our alarm clock rang. Our roommate left at around 06.00 and has been gone since. Next packing before we walk to the station.

07.48 The roommate returned and said hello. After that he had to go. We left as well and have just finished our breakfast at the station. It wasn’t bad at all, the breakfast that is. Nothing wrong with the station either.

09.30 Sitting by the side of a large concrete flowerpot outside Rimini station. We are planing the trip to San Marino.

10.14 The bus tickets to San Marino have just been bought. This will be our fourth country this year. We will as soon as we get there find a place to stay. Would be nice with a place of our own. Currently waiting for "Bonelli Bus" to appear.

SAN MARINO

11.52 We reached San Marino town in San Marino after a wonderful bus trip. The end of the trip was a climbing up the mountain that the town rests on. Making up plans from a bench. Having a breathtaking view.

12.55 Checked in at Hotel La Rocca. The view might have been breathtaking an hour ago, but it is nothing compared to what we have from our balcony. You can see really far. Staying above a restaurant in the middle of the town. It is windy! Christers shirt just tried to fly away over the republic. The escape-attempt failed. The clothes hanger hooked onto the balcony railing and the fugitive got caught. We are now holding on to our clothes and relax on the balcony.

A wonderful view from the balcony at Hotel La Rocca.

Palazzo Pubblico in central San Marino.

16.20 We strolled around the town. Took some pictures and bought some postcards. We found a small shop that sold postcards with the stamps put on. As of now we are digesting the late lunch, sitting on a wall. It is a cool and windy day our first day this year below 30°.

17.55 This is the peak. Or close to it. The countries highest peak is just close to hear. This is the first country where we climbed the highest areas. Here and there are signs in many languages, Polish, Finnish, Swedish, Czech, all a tourist need to feel at home. They even offered "Swedish coffee". From the lookoutpoint one can see many miles all the way to the coast and Rimini.

Monte Titano, highest peak in San Marino.

19.43 Just tasted the country wine in a shop. White, sweet and delicious. We also bought a bottle of local beer, Amarcord. I am looking forward to taste it. Next thing we will do is having dinner, unless we fell asleep before.

21.56 Walked around in an empty, deserted, tourist free San Marino town and at last found Il Beccafico there we had dinner. I choose ”Gnocchi with crazy sauce”. That is gnocchi with mushrooms, tomato sauce and basil. Christer choose ”Tagliatelle con Ragu”. Or in other words Tagliatelli with meat sauce. It sure was really good to eat. We are back in the room for beer and sleep. San Marino is filled with tourists in the daytime but we are one of few that stay the night. Must of them come on a short hike, excursion from some of the beachresorts by the Italian coastline. The wind blows more and more, it is chilly outside.

22.30 The beer, that’s called Amarcord La Tabachéra is strong to say the least. It reaches as far as 10%. We almost had to force it down. Time to sleep.


Sun going down in San Marino.

San Marino´s flag.

Amarcord, San Marino beer.


You can find 6 photos from July 4 in this photoalbum.
You can find 9 photos from July 5 in this photoalbum.
You can find 5 photos from July 6 in this photoalbum.
You can find 14 photos from July 7 in this photoalbum.
You can find 2 photos from July 8 in this photoalbum.
You can find 3 photos from July 9 in this photoalbum.
You can find 16 photos from July 10 in this photoalbum.


CONTINUE


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