25th of June - 3rd of July: Sundsvall - Messina

Saturday 26th of June

00.28 We can’t sleep. We will surf the Internet and find some facts about Malta. PS: Greece won 1-0. Outside it´s rain and wind, almost like autumn.

01.49 Time to get some sleep, on some couches.

03.00 One sleep a little at the time, but you do sleep, or? We constantly get disturbed by some cleaning vehicles which are driven around us.

05.05 Time for breakfast. We just went and released the backpacks.

05.32 Soon it will be time to check in.

06.20 Just checked in, packs sent as special. We been checked by security- and passports men and are currently at gate f 69, the furthermost gate. We will fly with SAS Snowflake.

08.41 We took off, a bit late, around 07.25. Not so cloudy outside anymore. Breakfast number II served and all is well. The downside is that we have to pay for the breakfast. The reason might be that the ticket just cost 595 kronor (crowns) or $ 80.

09.17 Over the, snowy, hills and far away.

MALTA

10.47 Touchdown! Just before we landed it was possible to see the whole country from the window

11.35 Backpacks retrieved, money changed and we are right now at a bus of an old model.

Valletta bus station

12.06 Seated by a beautiful fountain at the bus station. The trip here went through narrow alleys. The only thing that stopped us were people boarding and a car that was badly parked. Next a bus to Sliema.

12.18 At the bus, a bit more modern this time, heading for Sliema. We got information about the correct bus in Swedish by a merry bus driver. He also had the Swedish flag on the side of the bus. I guess the flag and the language knowledge have some connection. One wonders how this country might be? Is it influenced by the British, the Italians or?

13.23 We got off too soon and had to walk a lot but we reached the room. We left the bus in the wrong town, Gzira instead of Sliema, but the good news are that the towns are next to each other. We are staying at Soleado Guest House. Feels great to get inside from +31° and high humidity.

16.10 No help with a shower, neither some washing of the clothes so we took siesta in an hour to gain some power. Hard to say how well it went. Our shower water comes little by little and it is nearly impossible to fill the tub.

18.38 Sitting by a bay in the sunlight. Just had dinner at Army and Navy Restaurant. We had spaghetti and local beer.

View of Valletta from Sliema.

St Ann´s Square in Sliema

19.50 Just walked around, bought beverage and returned. Time to prepare for the match Sweden and Holland. During the walk we did, all according to tradition, see some newly wed.

22.35 There will be extra time. Will we make it? When can we have a balcony beer?

22.55 Still no goal 15 minutes left. After that it will be beer, or.

23.15 There won’t be beer; there will be penalties.

23.26 Sweden lost. Shit happens, time for beer. We will cheer for the Czechs tomorrow.

Sunday 27th of June

08.40 Just got out of bed. I slept well and in half and hour we will know if the breakfast is good. The night has, thanks to the air-condition, been cool.

09.55 Nothing wrong with breakfast, juice, bread, butter, soft cheese, marmalade and coffee. We are currently planing the day. There will be strolling in Valletta and finding the ferry terminal to check about Wednesday´s trip to Sicily.

11.54 Just paid for the room, 24 lira each, bought sun cream and will next go by ferry across the bay to Valletta.

The ferry from Sliema to Valletta.

12.28 Onboard the ferry to Valletta. Soon time to leave.

12.59 After ferry ride, ice cream and some rest are we wondering where we shall see to nights match, in the room or in the pub?

14.12 Just strolled through Valletta. Lots of things to see in it. Some things are beautiful but nothing too impressing and breathtaking. Behind me Grand Harbour. I sure wish I had a beer now.

15.57 The ferry terminal is found. We were far from alone there. I guess we buy the ticket another day. We saw an American ship with old aeroplanes on it and also had a Coca-Cola at a small diner/pub in the harbour on the way to the terminal. Next it´s time for food.

Valletta

16.20 Time for a late lunch, pizza for me and for Christer spaghetti. We are sitting at an outdoor restaurant at the Republic Square. We will take the ferry home after lunch. We walked through three cities today, Sliema, Valletta and Floriana. Not any great distance though. We met an old lady on the way here she pointed at here swollen knees and wanted money.

17.10 The last ferry to Sliema had already left. We were informed of this by some Swedes who told it to us in poor English. We will have to take the bus home. I hope we will get off at the right place.

18.00 Back in the room, thinking of the day and plan the evening. We also bought mineral water.

21.20 Just returned to the room after a late dinner with sea view at Pizzeria Fortizza. Time to watch the game between Denmark and Czech Republic. It is hot and the only help is drinking lots of beverage. Hey we got air-condition!

23.00 As the referee blew his whistle the Czechs had scored more then the Danes. We decided to celebrate this with a beer on the balcony. In the same moment we opened the beers was the hotel sign lit and shine like a spotlight on us. We went inside.

Monday 28th of June

08.00 I slept well. Outside it´s sun and clear sky. Soon time for the day’s first meal.

09.15 Back from breakfast. Nothing new today. Time to plan our remaining time here. How much more exploring can we stand in this heat?

10.27 Just arranged with transport to the ferry and also with the ferry to Sicily. Total cost 32.75 lira per person. It seems like we got the last places. At this very moment some jetplanes flew over us, wonder if they are from the ship that we saw yesterday?

12.51 On the bus to Mdina, time to see the old capital. There are only two questions, where and when do we get off?

14.02 We got off in the right place. Stepped off in the twin-city Rabat and walked to Mdina. The bus sounded worn out in the last hills. The view from this wall in Mdina is breathtaking. The city itself is so quiet. The only thing that disturbed the silence was an American guy that cried out “Cool” about an alley.

View from Mdina.

14.38 Just ordered and paid for a beer and a burger. Sitting at Caffé Medina.

16.35 Back from Mdina back in the room.

19.37 Just walked around in "hometown" Sliema. We looked for a place to swim during our walk. We also bought some cookies to have to our upcoming coffee

Sliema

22.36 The coffee, though instant, was tasty. It together with some rest and some radio listening made us wanna go for a stroll. This stroll brought us to an Internet café and also the area near the beach. Next some cleaning of clothes.

23.59 Cleaning of clothes and myself done. This day is coming to an end. Tomorrow is the last whole day here. Early on Wednesday morning the trip to Sicily begins. I guess that tomorrow will be just like today, warm, around 31°. We just tried the local soda Kinnie, strange but refreshing taste.

Tuesday 29th of June

09.10 I am tired. But what the heck nameday today and good friend and old travel-companion Roger has become a father.

10.25 Breakfast eaten time to talk about the budget, is what we got enough for what we wanna do? We spoke with our host Joe and a Sicilian during breakfast about our future plans. We got some tips about Syracuse.

On the bus, travelling to Hagar Qim.

11.43 On the way to the temple area Hagar Qim on the south of Malta. We just got our tickets checked. We bought a card to Roger and son before getting on the bus.

12.27 Sitting inside the temple area, behind me the ocean and beyond the horizon, Libya. The temple is over 5000 years old; they knew how to build in those days. One of the stones weighs 20 tons.

Hagar Qim

13.14 Time for lunch at Restaurant Hagar Qim. Aiming for spaghetti with rabbit sauce. Rabbit is a Maltese speciality. To drink a cold draft beer. We are sitting outside the restaurant.

14.19 Rabbitspaghetti was delicious. Next head for home with the same bus and personal as on the journey here. A driver with a billiard ball at the top of the gear stick and a ticket-tarring sidekick. The bus door is open and the road is like a broken washboard.

14.25 Time for a short stop in Qrendi. I wonder if I been in a place starting with Q before?

15.41 Just looked at the map. We passed Qrendi on the way to Hagar Qim. The stop was in Zurrieq. I got Q in the end instead of the start.

16.45 Time for a swim in the ocean! Sitting on a rocky beach by the Mediterranean Sea. The waves wash the cliffs and we get a tan.

17.38 A dip in the sea was just what I needed. Cooling for mind and body. Time to return home and wash away all the salt. Together with us swam a man with his cap on. The rocks at the bottom had some algae so it felt like walking on a rug. Nice.

Christers´s foot and the Mediterranean.

18.55 Salt away and we are getting ready for the last evening in the country. We have done and seen so many things. Some of them really beautiful but it is time to travel on.

20.13 Back at Pizzeria Fortizza there we ate the other evening. Time for Last Supper on the island.

20.17 The beer, Farsons Shandy, just got here. It has a taste that’s mixed between sweet and bitter. One can feel a taste of Kinnie.

21.25 Home again, time to sum our stay here. Nice hotel, pretty cities, lots to see, some heat and more. About the influences, well not so British as I would guess. Many speak Maltese. A language related to Hebrew and Arabic.

Wednesday 30th of June

04.40 Just awaken. Time for breakfast before we walk to our ride to the ferry. I SURE need more sleep.

05.08 All checked all packed, hopefully. Would be a bad start to already begin to leave things behind. So head for the hills or down them.

05.30 First some joggers passed us, then out from a room by the hotel came two muslims. One of them looked like Usama bin Laden. Were they hiding, are they wanted by USA? No time for thoughts, our ride just got here and of we are.

07.05 We had to leave our backpacks on car-deck and place ourselves in a wonderful lounge. I was able to get some coffee just before the ferry left the port. We are travelling with VirtuFerries.

ITALY

09.20 We had to walk over a big, open area after arriving to Sicily. Among the other passengers were people with sweaters, trunks and other things from Eros Ramazottis tour. We showed our passports before leaving the area. After that followed a walk into the town of Pozzallo. We sat down on a stone bench as we got inside and here we are.

09.46 New bench break, this time on an iron bench. We have seen cars and buses backing here from a side street. A policewoman is watching it all and she just let the cars back.

10.39 A bench of wood is just as good. Soon time to find a place to eat.

11.00 We found an ATM and the railway station. We will have to buy the ticket from a machine. Not a place where we can eat in sight.

11.39 Back on the same bench we sat on two hours ago. Not any open restaurant found. Do they eat lunch in this country and if, then do they do it?

12.18 I went to a small shop, got myself a chocolate bar and a soda. It wasn’t OK to pay with my 50 euro bill and I had to put it back and leave empty handed. When will this town allow me to eat?

13.27 We found another store and they let me shop. I bought an apple and a soda. We just returned to the station and bought and stamped our tickets. I hope we got it right.

13.48 We are on the train. In the mood. On the move.

View from our room at Hotel Aretusa.

15.08 Checked in at Hotel Aretusa in Syracuse. We are living close the station and are tired.

15.35 Nice room, the cars project in our ceiling as they pass. Next clothes washing before we pay for the room and go out on town.

18.34 We walked around the island Ortygia and have seen the cathedral at Dome Square, a mighty cathedral on which stairs we are seated. We also have seen the Aretusa fountain which is a thousand years old. Happy to seen it made us head for the Archimedes Square. Not much to see there. Next dinner and later we will buy something to drink to have on tomorrow´s trip and also watch the semi-final between Holland and Portugal. Some newly wed just left the Square in an open car.

Piazza del Duomo in Siracusa.

19.06 We found a restaurant on the other side of the Dome Square. We had barely sat down before they told us that they open at 19.30. We are back by the Aretusa fountain, waiting, hungry. It sure is a different country with different food tradition.

21.30 Back home from a tasty but complicated dinner. Each moment took some time. One guy to order beverage from, another one to order the food. After the dinner it took time to let them know we liked to pay. It took time to leave the bill and fetch the money. But they were quick to return the change. We didn’t tip them. We bought beverage for the change and are currently drinking it up. Christer spotted our neighbour climbing the wall just before we got inside the room. He/she is a lizard.

22.13 Its been hard to follow the game Holland - Portugal. We began with watching the game on the balcony looking in the apartment across the street. It went well until they changed channel and bye bye soccer. We are currently listening at the game on our radio. We think it is 1-1. Hard to tell, it is commentated in Greek.

Thursday 1st of July

08.10 Just got out of bed after I slept well. Soon breakfast time and then start packing. After that leave the place and head for the station.

09.54 returned from breakfast, bread, marmalade, orange juice and coffee. What a coffee, a taste of ,, well,, some cleaning liquid . The waitress had a T-shirt with an elk and ”Sweden” printed on it.

10.46 We finally got to buy our tickets to Catania after a long time in the queue. They cost us 6.04 euro each. Christer payed 20 euro and I 2.10 and we got our tickets. We just realised that he didn’t give us any change. 6.04 all of a sudden become 11.04, a slight increase. We can go in and complain but that will only lead to that we will miss the soon leaving train.

11.22 Our journey goes through a dry and hilly landscape. On the trains right side and our left one can see the sea. Here and there can we see lemon trees. But right now all we can see are the walls of a tunnel.

11.55 The landscape is getting flatter. On my right side fields and bales of hay.

13.02 At Youth hostel Agora in Catania, staying-price 20 euro/night/person. Currently at the reception waiting for the room to get cleaned so that we can get our key.

13.11 In our room, a room that cant took that long to clean. It is between four and five square metres.

15.14 Out on the town. It is hot! We took pictures at the Dome Square. Right now by a fountain looking at a green elephant. I washed my clothes in a blue bucket and informed a man lying in a bed about time before we left.

Catania, Sicily. So hot we saw green elephants.

17.05 We walked the town, bought train tickets out of here and bought something to drink. Here you don’t have to work hard to sweat or lose money.

19.40 Just had a cooling and refreshing shower. Our room might be small but it sure can get hot inside, around 32°. We are in for a rough night.

22.57 Home after an excellent dinner here at the hostel, chicken, spicy sausages of minced meat, olives and mixed vegetables. Christer choose Pennette, fresh tomatoes, cheese and basil. A replica of one of Jesus disciples served our meal. After that have we seen Greece win on extra time against Czech republic. Next to us during the game sat the man in the reception, a copy of the referee Collina who by the way refereed the match.

23.15 The man I told about the time earlier today is still in his bed. I think he has been there all day. He has at least been there each time we passed. It is ”just” 29° in the room.

Friday 2nd of July

08.15 Just woke up. I think I will remain in bed until the alarm clock rings. Not a cloud and plenty of birds singing outside.

08.35 The clock has rang and I been and washed myself. Next breakfast whenever we are ready.

10.05 Today’s morning meal consisted of two kinds of marmalade, juice, bread and hot, strong coffee. Two persons have opened and closed our door during the last minutes. They looked inside, said they are sorry and left. Christer just left to wash in the same bucket that I used yesterday. The plan of the day is to go by train to the volcano Etna.

11.58 Leaving our home took us by the fish market. The sound level was close to the one during a soccer game. Right now pause in a park. One can´t bare to walk any great distance in this heat. Next the post office and then probably fluid filling. This is Peter live from the Giardini Bellini park.

12.39 We reached Piazza Roma. We saw a book by the Swedish author Henning Mankell in a bookstore before we got here. No big plans as of now, sure we want have something to drink and also to see Etna. How make it, fix it, well we have to see.

13.25 Finally bought something to drink. Haven't found the station yet. The search goes on.

15.15 We didn't find any station. It is anyhow too hot for any major excursions. Next shower, washing and siesta.

The old roman theatre in central Catania.

17.30 We fled the heat of the room and sat down on the balcony. Watching passing peoples and birds.

21.00 Our recently bought yoghurts and we are on our way down the stairs. We will go and have dinner the yoghurts are on their way to the fridge. We will eat at the same place as yesterday. The staffs of this restaurant have been bust lately, carrying chairs and tables.

21.34 The beer is here. We are waiting for something with ham. I am excited to see what it might be.

22.03 It was veal with ham. Served with fresh slices of tomatoes and some tasty, green leaves. After that I had an espresso. Delicious from first bite to last sip.

23.37 We visited the bar in the basement before we went back to the room. The bar has a small creak flowing by. The carrying of furniture paid of. Lots of people below us. Time for Christer to climb up to his place and for me to switch of the light and fall asleep.

Saturday 3rd of July

07.30 Just woke up. Wonder how long people staid up outside? I also wonder who closed the shutters? It is a good thing that Christer woke up and took care of things. It would have been hot otherwise. I managed to cry out Hello in my sleep on top of all.

09.02 Time to pack before we stroll to the station. Breakfast was just like yesterday the only thing added was our yoghurts.

09.38 At the station. Christer has gone to stamp, validate our tickets. I am guarding the back packs and watch people and three-legged dog.

10.17 On the train to Messina, some men are playing accordion, and the three-legged dog is howling. Behind Christer is a man trying to shut a window. The dog, its owner and the window shutting man just gave up. Outside one can see the mocking Etna with its smoking snow covered top.

10.44 The accordion players suddenly decided to give it another try. Outside passes a wild, beautiful, hilly landscape. The accordion players are silent again.

11.29 We are, after a week on islands, able to see main land on the other side of the Messina straight. We will soon reach today's goal Messina. No booked room there.

12.13 Staying at Hotel Touring. Room for 20 euro/head/night. We can crawl to the station from here. The light in the hallway is lit with a switch situated under a painting. If you drop the painting to fast, the light goes out.

12.55 I looked for a wall plug as I got back from the shower. I needed one to recharge my cell phone. I finally found one, 1.80 metres above the floor hidden in a corner. I plugged in ever so happy. End of the fun, no power in the plug.

14.24 We walked around in Messina, not much activity, few people, cars, scooters and open stores. I am thirsty.

Messina

The cathedral at Piazza del Duomo in Messina.

16.00 We found a store and have filled up the supplies, fluid level on the plus side as of now. We also bought Ava. It is washing powder.

18.30 Time to go out, buy tickets and also some evening beer.

20.25 Tickets bought from Villa San Giovanni in the mainland. Time to figure out where the boat cross the straight departs.

22.59 We found where the boat leaves tomorrow. We had dinner at Shanghai 2. We were barely seated as we could place our orders. The waitress got surprised, as we both wanted a 0,66 litre of beer. We got served really fast but as it got to paying, well back in the old, slow way. Lots of guests few in the staff. The city woke up, people, cars, scooters and open stores and restaurants everywhere.