Wednesday July 17th

08.04 The alarm clock just rang. I put it forward half an hour, time for more sleep.

08.31 It rang again, time to get out of bed.

10.20 What a morning, Christer just realised that he has some problems to screw on the cork on his bottle of lens fluid.

10.37 Brunch ordered. For me, chicken kavarma omelette. For Christer chicken kavarma with potatoes. He will drink mineral water and I ordered milk. As I did so the waitress asked me –“Toplo?” I confirmed. I wonder what it will be.

10.40 Toplo or what ever it’s called is…. warm, whipped milk served in a cup.

11.02 It is 31 (87.8) degrees in the shadow and still no food, except Christer’s potatoes. The menu said a la minute. Is that preparing time or eating time.

Our huge door in Plovdiv.

11.15 The food got here at 11.03 and was worth waiting for. Chicken casserole wrapped in an omelette. I have no other words but delicious, the cost for this around $2. No high food prices in this country. We didn’t eat alone, as usual some flies and wasps joined us.

12.04 At the station again. We met a lady that asked where we came from. We told her that we were from Sweden and she told us she had a daughter in Finland. After we bought a ticket, a common one this time.

13.11 As the guard arrived I did handed our ticket and pointed at Christer and I. The guard shook his head, punched the ticket and left. We were confused for a while and then realised to shake your head means yes here in Bulgaria.

14.10 Ten minutes left of the trip. We are standing still and the Firedays carries on.

15.02 We got to Stara Zagora at 14.30 and now we got a place to stay. The first impression of the hotel was all but nice. A wall with square holes in stead of windows. The other side of the hotel had windows and inside one of them in a room we are now.

Halfbuilt hotel in Stara Zagora

19.05 Dinner. We ordered different prices on the menu and on the bill. Christer’s food got 50 cents cheaper.

20.25 The food was great and the company as usual flies and wasps. We have decided that after these hot days we do deserve to have a bath in the sea. We have just bought a ticket to Varna at the Black Sea coast. Next adding liquids to the body and a shower. The good news, there was nothing wrong with Christer’s cork. The bad news the neck of the bottle is broken.

22.38 Outside lightning’s are moving between the clouds and sure is windy. Two branches snapped of and fell to the ground.

23.35 The storm is over. I wonder if it has blocked the railroad track. I hope there will not be any rain by the coast but I don’t think it will.

Thursday July 18th

06.55 Awake and just got out of the shower. It is a cloudy but not windy day. We will soon travel east to the coast.

07.40 Thunder and lightning are back and soon we will walk to the station.

08.05 Just 25 (77) degrees outside this will be a cold day.

11.34 We are standing still about an hour left of the ride.

14.31 We have a place to stay at, a couple of minutes from the station and close to the beach. We are staying at an old lady’s place. Price $7.5 per night and person.

Beautiful cathedral in Varna.

16.20 Sitting at Paraklisa, time for some food. On the other side of the fence some dogs with earrings, or to be exact white plastic pieces, passes by.

18.35 The food was excellent. We are now on the bus to Golden Sands. There we will visit Christer’s sister that is there on a holiday trip.

19.43 We did, for once in a while get of the bus too early. This forced us to walk to Golden Sands. I wonder what will happen next.

20.38 Time for dinner at La Bamba. On our way here a man from a nearby place asked us what we wished to order. We said we didn’t want to order and he got upset.

23.13 Home sweet home. After dinner we took the bus back to Varna. There we started to search for a place to buy something to drink. This wasn’t as easy at it sounds. We did manage though and now its time to sleep.

Friday July 19th

09.09 Just got out of bed. Today is the B-day, bathing day.

12.24 Sit and wait for lunch. We are close to the beach. Today it will be pork chop, chips and beer, after that probably coffee.

13.15 The food was as good as it can be, soon time for the sea.

Near the seafront in Varna.

14.18 Back in our room, time for a little sleep. We will have our bath later. Postcards and souvenirs bought and I have manage to step on Christer’s sandal and make the sole came loose.

18.15 Back home after a Black Sea bath. It was great but filthy. The sun got blocked by clouds and we here a distant thunder. Tomorrow we will head for Golden Sands and a real bath.

20.15 Just back after a short trip to the other side of the town and a supermarket. Among the stuff I bought was a bottle of wine for just under $1.

23.10 Home after dinner. It was as usual tasty. The only error was that the waitress misunderstood me or perhaps I was to vague. Anyhow I got a small beer.

23.58 Our wine “Sophia” made from Cabarnet Sauvignon grapes is really good.

Saturday July 20th

10.00 Awake and wet in my hair from the morning shower. Outside the seagulls are crying out and in here is it calm.

We rented a room in Mrs Saveshtova´s flat in Varna.

12.25 Just as we were about to travel to Golden Sands I realised that I had forgot my towel. On top of this it started to rain. But we have got a ticket for tomorrow.

12.52 It has stopped to rain and began to pour down. Here we had plans to bath, instead a reminder that we like that Roman emperor one day will die.

14.42 The rain suddenly stopped, we got ready to head out and BANG it all started again.

17.08 Back home. We´ve been out for a late lunch, exchanged money and bought breakfast. As we got back it all began. The three keys on the bunch of keys suddenly became one. One was found in the little leather purse they lay in. The other one was gone. We searched the floor, the stairs and the floor below, nothing. As I opened the door into the flat the key appeared. It had been trapped between the door and the threshold.

19.06 Lying on my bed. Far from amused. We were supposed after days of Fire to have sun and bath. From the moment we decided to go here has the sky been pouring down rain.

23.44 Back after dinner at the same place as yesterday, satisfying but not so tasty. Now its time to pack.

Sunday July 21st

06.45 Tired. Far from ready to travel on. But we have no choice. Our tickets are for the 8.20 train.

11.44 So this ride is coming to its end. In half and hour have we reached Ruse and got a hold on Elena who will provide with a place to sleep.

12.16 At the station, we reached here but haven’t been able to reach Elena. I tried to phone but no luck. Sitting in a waiting room, sharing with a man that sleeps.

12.31 There are lights in the end of the tunnel. I just hope it isn’t a train coming towards us. Elena finally answered and she will be here in less then an hour.

12.44 Say the joy that last forever. Another bottleneck of Christer’s lens fluids is broken.

13.35 At Elenas office/apartment, we came here in a taxi that almost drove away with our backpacks.

Elena, a student at Umeå University in the 1990´s.

18.00 Home after a walk on the town. We were guided by Elena and had lunch in a park. We walked around, seen Donau and Romania on the other bank, been down in a church and up in a TV-tower. In the tower it was time for coffee. As the bill arrived we did realise it had cost us to use the elevator up in the tower. The trip down was free. Now we will shower before its time for dinner at Elena’s parents’ place.

Monday July 22nd

01.47 What an evening! We had a wonderful time with Elena and her parents. We showered as we got there and then it was time for dinner. First homemade spirits made from plum, then shopska salad, chopped tomatoes, cucumber, onion and peppers covered with feta cheese. Main course moussaka filled peppers and scrambled eggplant.

08.10 Just woke up and somewhere is a rooster crying out. Next packing and breakfast with Elena’s parents. After that time to head for the station and a trip to Romania.

10.37 Back in the flat after a splendid breakfast. Coffee, bread and home made yoghurt. On the way here a man tried to sell me some electric equipment.

13.14 Back in the waiting room. Here are other persons, sleeping and awake. Our train is late but we got tickets for it, next the Last Supper.

Railway station in Ruse.

14.51 On restaurant Viva by the train station. WE need a little to feast on before we cross a new border. We confused the waitress as we asked about the price. She went to get a colleague, a colleague that new English and was able to go and someone.

15.24 The food was delicious. Next on the trip, back to the station.

16.02 On the train to Bucharest. I wonder if we might add some stamps in our passports.

16.42 Our passport numbers just was reported over the telephone.

16.45 All is OK, the first stamp of the day is here.

17.19 The passports collected by Romanians and our compartment partner has been closely checked. They have checked his bag and asked him about occupation and travel plans.

ROMANIA

17.24 It has happened again. Sometimes the strangest things happen and more than often they happen to me. Here I am travelling nice and quiet with the train..then suddenly, water come in through the window and into my face and all over me. But what the hell, it cooled me down.

17.40 We are standing still, waiting for our passports, I wonder how long the stop will be?

18.07 Passports back, no guard and we are standing still. But we got another stamps, jackpot today. Now the train whistled and we are on our way.

19.00 Sunflower fields outside, ovens hot inside. The fields are flat and we see a town by the horizon.

19.26 I left to powder my nose. The toilet in our wagon was occupied so I went to the one in the next wagon, a sleeping car by the way. On my way back I did found the door between the sleeping car and our wagon locked. Plans were set. Wait to be let in/out or jump of the wagon and change as the train stops. It became plan one, a man from the staff let me out. Soon we will reach Bucharest.

21.43 There are evenings then nothing works and everything fails. This is such an evening. All was fine until we reached the station. After that all hell broke loose. We had read in the guidebooks that it was wise to avoid the train station. As we got outside and thought all was well we soon were convinced about the opposite. We looked for an exchange office but found none. We walk on, met annoying citizens and saw a cook on some stairs. As we finally got back to the station and had planes to enter some female guards stopped us. They wanted to see our tickets, we sad we just arrived and wanted to exchange, they let us in after a while. Christer was allowed to exchange but no I. My bill ($ 100) was too big. I took up the same amount in smaller bills and all was OK. This was nice in to ways, I got my money and became a millionaire. $1 is around 33,000 lei so $100 is 3,3 millions. Next we had to fine a place to stay. The first hotel was full. In next we first met a man with a cartridge belt and ahead of in the queue were four gentlemen that seem to belong to the Corleone family. The lady in the reception told us the hotel was full. As we got outside again we did meet two ladies (mother and daughter?). They told us they had a room and away we went walking down the street. We came to the flat, passed a refrigerator and were in our new room. Now one might think all was peace and quiet but NO. It was a room with one bed; one of us had to sleep on the floor. It went easy to convert dollars into lei as we were supposed to pay for the room. As we asked for a key of our own, the daughter (that called herself Dorina) wrote 50,000 ($2) on a note and left the room. She got back and added a zero to the sum. I shook my head and took the key. She left but soon returned with her mother, told some story about how poor her mother were and that she just had become a widow (happy husband), asked us if we wanted coffee and left. She got back with the coffee and played her final card. She pointed at herself and said – “Five dollars for me, a good Christian”. Did she beg for money or sold her body? Anyhow this was IT. I told her good bye in several languages, as I got to –Arrivederci all hell broke loose. She told us it wasn’t a good word for her but she left. I locked the door and we wondered if we dared to drink the coffee. Now nothing else can go wrong, or? Is this AC/DC: s “Highway to hell” I just hope it ain’t Eagles “Hotel California”

11.58 We had our coffee and we are alive. The poor lady has over 30 channels on her TV. We hope the strange things here are over after what just happened, we seen lightning but haven’t heard any thunder, is it the trams, power failure or something yet unknown? What we hope is the true final is the strange roar we just heard outside. We expect to have come from an animal but what kind? It was a mix of a donkey sound and bear roar. Now we will sleep.

Tuesday July 23rd

09.10 It’s the dawn of a new day. The day of the Great Escape. Nothing can be worse then this.

09.57 Out bathroom is worth a story. You barely lock the door with a bent nail, the sink is covered with half used soaps and the tub is worn. Our hostess or as Dorina calls her Mama or Madam sits and talk to a man behind a red curtain. Time to gather strength and flee.

11.17 The escape was successful and we found Marna a place to stay for two nights. The last obstacle was the door into this room. It refused to open, but as Christer tackled it we came in. I just had shower and next will it be breakfast.

View from Hotel Marna in Bucharest.

13.01 Breakfast bought and eaten. Now we will have a siesta before we see more of this town.

17.18 After siesta we walked the town and took some pictures. Among them a picture of the balcony there Ceausescu had his final speech. Now we are sitting in Cismigiu park and drinking lemon soda. Here it’s calm, an oasis in a city with plenty of houses but nothing really special. We are looking at people rowing boats and a dog that run along the pond.

The balcony where Nicolae Ceausescu held his last speach.

20.26 Back on the third floor and room 306. Our elevator has a mirror and a painting, but it seems unreliable so we took the stairs. Before we got home we had dinner for 384,000 Lei ($11) for the two of us. I bought a beer and a soda before we went up. The young lady in the store knew little English but sold stuff from baby clothes to vodka.

20.55 All was quiet, until now. A lady down at the pavement on our side suddenly started to scream hysterically. She is being watched by the ones in the house opposite to ours and by the persons next to her. The might know what we don’t, why she screams.

BEER = BERE CHEERS = NOROC

Wednesday July 24th

08.35 Just got out of bed.

10.20 We just had breakfast, fried eggs, bread, marmalade and tea. Next a walk cross the town for buying and a look at the wiev.

10.39 On the other side of a the street is a man, on a ladder, smashing a window with a shovel. It has been time to leave the room.

12.09 Break on a bench near the boulevard through the town. We just saw Ceausescus enormous building, palace, parliament on Calea 13 September 1. A huge part of the old parts of the city were destroyed as they built this and the boulevard. The place there we were supposed to buy train tickets have seized to exist or been moved. Today only 29(84.2) a cool day.

13.55 Pizza and Ale break in the shadow. The beer, Ciuc, is excellent. Next stop, the parliament.

The gigantic parliament building in Bucharest.

18.13 We didn’t enter the parliament, the fee were too expensive. Instead a walk on the town with different things bought. A train ticket to Brasov, some washing material and soda. We saw a car outside the store there Christer bought a sweater from Steaua Bucharest. The seats of the car were draped with sweaters of players from the national team in soccer. Players like Hagi and Lacatus.

Thursday July 25th

08.40 Awake after an all but calm night. I woke up several times because of the traffic outside and of the heat in the room. Next wash our faces, dress, eat breakfast and gather our belongings.

11.35 On place at the platform. There are many waiting so we are glad we booked our seats. Next rest and buy something to drink before we leave. Pockets full with money and heads with thoughts of the kind, will we find a place to stay and what will happen after that?

12.15 Leaving Bucharest. The lady next to me just made the sign of the cross. Where ever will this end?

16.20 We had just got to Brasov as Eugen picked us up. He drove us here and gave us first class information. Excellent room next to everything. He recommended a lot.

Brasov

20.29 At home in our room, we have strolled, took pictures, dined at Taverna and returned here. We met Eugen’s mother as we returned. She is sweet lady that had made our beds and brought us bigger pillows. The house we are staying in lays among some other house behind fence.

Friday July 26th

08.15 Up early but not as early as the hen outside the window. Today we will go on a short trip to Bran and see their castle. It isn’t the castle of Dracula but close.

12.17 We just ordered lunch. I moved my hand trying to copy a fish. Since I am allergic to the little creatures I do try to avoid eating them. The waitress was close to laughter. But the food, a pizza, is fish free and ordered. Christer will have spaghetti.

The Bran castle.

13.11 Leaving for Bran by bus. Driving through a rainy landscape. This is the first day we have to use jackets.

14.34 High up in the castle, the wiev is breathtaking. The castle is really mighty. We take a break here and let some tourists pass.

Bran, the village.

18.05 Back home again. After that we left the castle has it rained. We are soaking wet. We had no problems finding souvenirs; the tricky part was to find the bus stop. We asked a man where it was; he moved his arm in a big sweeping way and said - No. As we got back to Brasov a furious walk started. We flew by the other people on the street. All we had in our minds were to get home. Our hostess, Eugen’s mother has gone to make us some tea.

20.04 It still rains. Some of our clothes are getting dry. One thing is for sure, if we don’t go out for dinner and breakfast buying we will be hungry tomorrow.

22.15 Back home after dinner and breakfast bought. It took a long while before we got the chance to order. I had beef casserole. Right now are we just talking and will soon plan tomorrow. Hey just got to me, we have to pack as well.

Saturday July 27th

08.20 We have just forced ourselves out of the beds. In an hour another walk to a station will start. Right now no rain but for how long?

10.03 On yet a platform. Time to travel this time to Sighisoara. On the way here we saw a bridal couple in a car and a man leaning out of a window of a car and filming.

13.30 We got to Sighisoara at 13.05, got of and were caught by Cristina Faur. We are living in the middle of the Old Town.

Sighisoara, a very nice medieval town

13.50 Some of the other tourists staying here are tenting in the garden.

14.47 Time for lunch at the restaurant in the house where Vlad Tepes (also known as Dracula) was born. During his adult days were he amused by driving staked through his enemies. We are looking through the menu will it be steak?

15.31 I didn’t choose steak; I took pork chop of the house, underneath, bread, on top delicious sauce and in between the pork chop, next cappuccino.

17.46 Back home after more walking among that a walk up a LONG staircase. We have also bought breakfast. The lady in the store had little change and gave me a chewing gum instead.

22.40 This day is coming to its end. Next plans about next stop, Cluj.

Sunday July 28th

08.30 Yet a morning, yet a day. I am awake but the tiredness won’t go away. Time again to pack the stuff and carry on.

10.48 Lunch at pizzeria Jo downhill the Old Town. Before we left our latest home did we meet a Swedish girl that I promised a copy of this journal.

11.47 Sitting on a bench on the platform. I just saw some people helping an old lady to get up to the first stairs on the train. The stair by the way is 60 centimetres (23.6 inch) above the platform.

14.34 We are travelling through an agricultural landscape with hills. Five persons in the compartment and I am far from feeling great.

16.44 We got here by 16.30 and now are we in a room at hotel Pax. We are across the street from the station. Next exchange money so that we can pay for our room. It ain’t big but it’s ours.

Christer on one of the "romanian" benches in Cluj.

17.20 No exchange, we went to a cash-dispenser instead. The cash-dispenser knew our names. They appeared on the display as we inserted our cards.

20.30 We just had dinner at Pizza Y. Christer took spaghetti and for me pizza. With my espresso came to small beer, no charge. On the house as the waiter said.

22.58 Yet a day has come to an end, a day full of surprises. I hope tomorrow will be calm.