Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson



Wednesday 2nd of July

09.28 It is morning again. We remain at City Hotel in Krabi. We are watching BBC World News. Next on the agenda is breakfast. We fell asleep as soon as the mobile phones had rung. It was ever so dark in the room as we woke up. The curtains are way too effective.

10.22 The place we sat down at is called "31". It is on Chao Fa Road in the southern parts of Krabi. Here we will have our breakfast. We’ve seen a little store with an ad saying that they sell moist snuff/snus (General Portion). Snus is the Swedish version of snuff. You are supposed to put in under you upper lip. The sign tells us that a lot of Swedes come to Krabi and apparently they can’t survive without this drug, their precious snus. On our way here we’ve also seen that little old man with the wagon who we saw last night.

A cat enjoying life in Krabi town.

12.01 We’ve checked the internet about transport to Bangkok. It seems like we will fly there. We have plans to get there fresh and alert. We first planned to go by train so that we would see as much as possible of Thailand. But we just realised that we wouldn’t see much. The train runs during the night, a time when you don´t see much at all. It is time to get back to our room to cool down.

An ordinary street, an ordinary day in Krabi.

13.44 The urge to go out again was to strong. We also had an urge for coffee. We’ve ordered that together with some banana- and pineapple pancake. We are sitting at a small table at First Corner. A rooster just cried out and some American ladies are discussing something at a neighbouring table. We are along the same street as our breakfast restaurant.

Peter waiting for his pancake at the restaurant First Corner (spelt First Coner on their sign)

14.24 The sun is blazing and we´re pleased that there is some wind here by the Krabi River. We are wondering where the post office might have hidden. Our wondering just came to a halt as a man offered us a trip in his longtailed boat. We would get to travel along the river and also see some caves. We turned his offer down. We've seen some mudskippers skipping around down by the river as well.

17.10 We are back at the hotel. We’ve heard on the news about a tragic event. A man has gone on a rampage with a bulldozer/tractor through Jerusalem. They are discussing whether it was a terrorist attack or not.

Krabi river with the limestone cliffs Khao Khanap Nam in the background.

17.52 That’s that. We’ve come to a decision. We are going to find out if it is possible to buy an airplane ticket to Bangkok. We are at an internet café to make the purchase.

18.11 We have a booking on a flight the 5th of July. The code that we were given is WJ85AC. We are going to fly with Air Asia, Asia’s excellent low-fare airline. This is just excellent.

18.58 Once again we´ve met the old man with his wagon. Once again we´ve stepped into our room.

20.14 The insect repellent is once again being put on and we’ve once more taken aim for the floating restaurant. We are once again out of luck. It looks dark on the place and with our chances to get there. We’ve received news that our friend Roberth has reached Canada though.

20.45 This evening’s dinner will be at Boom Steak Krabi. We’ve ordered ribs and Australian steak. It isn’t that Thai but we have to try something else from time to time. Not much use of the repellent. We are dining indoors.

21.31 Christer is trying to get some life in his radio. We are going to find out what the Thai radio has to offer. His flu is slowly leaving his body. That´s good news.

22.45 Two newly opened beers stand on the bedside tables. We are trying Archa Beer and Leo. While doing this we are watching some Wimbledon tennis, Federer versus Ancic.


Thursday 3rd of July

08.27 Our windows are all misted. The reason to this is the fact that I pulled the curtains aside last night to get some daylight in the morning. The mist that is on the outside is the result of the meeting between the warm damp outdoor air getting in contact with the window cooled down by the air conditioning.

10.16 It is time for another breakfast at "31". On the TV behind Christer they are talking about the problems around Israel's thoughts to attack Iran.

12.01 Christer´s camera batteries have for some reason lost their power during the night. We’ve no idea how that might have happened. What we do know is that we are on our way to this year’s first beach visit. This will take place at the tourist village Ao Nang อ่าวนาง around 10 kilometres northwest of Krabi.

12.18 A sãwngthãew with us and two ladies are on the move towards Ao Nang. We are going to find out what the village has to offer tourists, backpackers and quiet common people. A man in a pink t-shirt just entered and our vehicle is honking.

13.05 We passed the town pier and also the little old man we´ve seen earlier. After a few stops in some small villages, we reached Ao Nang. Here we are sitting at the café Black Canyon Coffee along the main street. I have ordered the strongest they´ve got. The air has some rain in it and also a touch and feeling of charter tourism. We’ve also seen some Swedes.

Ao Nang

Christer and the Andaman Sea.

13.43 Well, we are sitting on yet another bench, along yet another beach and in front of yet another sea. This time it is the Andaman Sea. There is some rain in the air and all we can see on the beach are the longtailed boats with crew and passengers. About that coffee, well it was strong but not as strong as I had hoped for.

14.18 The waves are rolling in from the sea that I just left. It is shallow water way out from the beach and the bottom is covered in sand. There is no sign of the sun and I am sitting down to get dry. We are trying to read in our pocket books we bought before we left home soil. The rain leaves some small wet dots in our books.

Divers preparing for a boat trip in Ao Nang.

15.05 The light rain carries on. Four guys have worked really hard to pull in a fishing net towards the beach. People gather around the net, probably to see what has been caught there. Some ladies are walking along the beach offering a massage and we also looked at a sign with information how to act in case of a tsunami. Speaking of tsunamis, the provinces along the coast will have a tsunami drill on Monday. We hope to be in Bangkok by then.

A rainy day in Ao Nang.

Tsunami-sign at the beach in Ao Nang.

Once again the animals want to be close to us.

15.44 A beige dog just laid down to rest next to me. A bit further away from him is another dog. These dogs look at some other dogs further away along the beach. Are the first two controlling their territory or what?

16.43 We’ve left the beach and we entered another vehicle. Our vehicle first seemed to be without a driver but he stood and helped some young ladies with their car which wouldn’t start. I want to get back to the room, wash the salt away and prepare for the evening.

17.50 We returned to Krabi and our hotel. I just stepped out of the shower, saltfree and about to have a bun and some orange juice.

A sãwngthãew, cheap and practical transport between Ao Nang and Krabi.

19.38 We are out on the streets of Krabi again. I am checking on how we shall get from Suvarnabhuni to the railway station. It is route AE-4 we are supposed to take. I also learned that taxi is quicker, more comfortable and about the same price if you are two or more. Suvarnabhuni is Bangkok’s newly built airport. It is there we are going on Saturday.

21.05 Our walk and search didn’t bring us much. We haven’t found any genuine Thai restaurants. Well, at least no one that wasn't a cantina, a couple of plastic chairs or tables with barely 30 cm tall legs. We had to sit down at Ristorante Viva. Here we were able to order some Thai meals, so I guess it was great timing. There is a bottle with something glowing stuffed in it under our table. It isn’t a Molotov cocktail but something to keep the mosquitoes away.

21.54 What can I say? My dish was spicy to say the least. A sound similar to the one coming from a car spinning in a gravel pit came from my mouth after the first chew. The spicing was paneng, red curry. Now it is time to check how much money we´ve got and to plan for tomorrow.


Friday 4th of July

09.07 The day is planned. First of all we will prolong our stay here at the hotel before we go out. This is due to the fact that we won´t be leaving here with the nighttrain as first planned so we will need an extra night. The sky is blue today, that’s great!

10.01 We just made a hat trick at restaurant "31". The breakfast hour is upon us. We seldom get hungry on these latitudes but we know from years of experience that we need to eat from time to time. We paid 950 baht ($ 30) for another night before we left the hotel.

Our breakfast restaurant in Krabi.

10.53 The breakfast was once again tasty and filling. A question was raised though. What is orange called in different languages? I remembered that orange juice in French is jus d’orange but what’s the name for orange? Hey that’s it, it’s orange! We can’t remember what it is called in Italian. I suggested orangina but that’s a soda right? We are sitting and waiting in the lobby since our room is being cleaned. We are going to pack our things for the beach. We are aiming for a moderate tan today.

11.36 After leaving the room we´re once again heading for Ao Nang but that will not be our final stop. We will go beyond Ao Nang today. We have plans to find another, better beach. We’ve seen the little old man’s wagon as well but where is he?

11.49 Our vehicle has pulled over to the side. The driver has gone to talk to a young lady in a concrete gray house with a rooster outside it. No panic, we are on the move again.

Longtail boats in Ao Nang. Which one will be our transport?

12.26 We got off in Ao Nang and saw a squirrel. After that we have gone to a ticket booth and bought a return ticket with a long-tailed boat.

12.49 A longtailed boat took us to Railay Beach (http://www.krabi-hotels.com/seedo/railey.htm). Here on the world famous beach we have sat down at the Flame Tree Restaurant for some coffee. The prices are high, it is because only tourists eat and drink here and because everything must be brought here by boat. Our return tickets are valid for the boats numbered 1-138. We are once again at a place with art on the walls.

Christer having coffee at Flame Tree Restaurant on Railay Beach.

14.35 Our first beach spot was too hot and sunny. We had laid down by a large stone. Now we have relocated near some cliffs. Here we found shade and are close to the sea. This is one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. What am I saying? It is the most beautiful beach! It is situated by a small bay surrounded by high cliffs of limestone.

Longtail boats on Railay Beach.

Warm water and a beautiful perfect beach! The man in green shorts is Christer.

15.37 It is time to do what the sea does at low tide, slowly go back. Speaking of low tide, that is just what we got now. The beach is not as pretty in this stage.

16.05 You can’t have stiff limbs if you want to go with a longtailed boat. First you´ve got to vade barefoot out in the water and then climb into the boat without flipping it to much. We managed to get in and out without any problems and we had a great time both on the beach and on the boat trips.

On the way back from Railay Beach.

16.27 We’ve been sitting getting dry along the beachwalk here in Ao Nang. Christer has taken part in a survey about tourism in Krabi. Some passing young ladies have asked him about how the hotel was booked, his age, nationality and so on.

17.24 I can once again hear the air conditioning in room 429 growl. We bought some mixed fruit from the market across the hotel before we got up here. My skin is hot but I hoped we tanned moderately.

18.27 We just had a fruit break, apple, pineapple and some white beige fruit we don’t know the name of. Along with the fruit we got a small bowl with salt. Who needs salt while eating fruit?

20.41 Orange is called arancia in Italian. At least according to what I found on the internet. Now we´ve sat down at the restaurant Chokedee for dinner.

21.41 We went, filled with food and joy, to 7 eleven to get us some breakfast. On our way back we met the little old man once again. He has some barrels on his wagon. Is he a garbage man or what? It is time to learn more about our next stop, Bangkok. We are currently watching some tennis from Wimbledon, German Schuettler versus Spanish Nadal.


Saturday 5th of July

08.17 The towel I brought with me to the beach yesterday is soon dry. The same goes with me. I just got out of the shower and I am sitting on the side of the bed. It is time for breakfast.

09.55 The heat from the street comes in through the hotel entrance. Our waiting time are over. Our journey will go on. The stay has been ever so great. I give high remarks for the room and the bed. Seldom I´ve slept so well.

10.02 We are on our way to Krabi airport. Our taxi has stopped to fill up with some petrol. Why do so many of the vehicles we travel with have to do this when we are passengers? It has been with us through the years. (3/8 2005, 11/8 2006)

10.36 So far everything is ok, the taxi ride, security, check-in and also to get us some coffee. I didn’t go that smoothly for one of the other guests here at the restaurant. He dropped his tray to the floor. Within an hour we´ll board Air Asia’s flight to Bangkok.

11.20 As I look through the room I can see people of different nationalities and gender. What we all got in common is that we are waiting for a plane to take us to another place. The airport is in great shape and feels newly built. Next to me there are some people talking on their cellphones.

11.52 Christer looks through the airplane’s price list and clears his throat. The passengers who still haven’t found a seat are looking for one for them and their luggage. We will soon lift to fly north.

We´re approaching Bangkok.

13.38 We are at Suvarnabhuni Airport just northeast of Bangkok. Here we are sitting by the conveyor belt waiting for our luggage. I don’t see the point in standing and waiting if there are seats. Along the belt there is a couple looking very Scandinavian.

Peter having lunch at Suvarnabhuni Airport.

13.59 We are with our backpacks next to us at China Town Restaurant here at the airport. We are going to have lunch before we take bus number AE-4 to the next stop. Christer just got his lemon grass juice.

14.35 The lunch was delicious. Christer among other things had "jade-rice", all green in colour. The bus, AE4, we planned to catch doesn’t leave until 16.00. We have to take bus AE-1 into the city and then take the metro to the railway station. The reason why we want to go to the railway station is the fact that we know the way to our hotel from there. Our bus leaves in 20 minutes.

15.44 We are onboard the nice and cool bus and we´ve travelled south along highways and thoroughfares. Bus AE-1 isn't moving any longer. We are stuck in traffic. Outside of the bus two Buddhist monks have passed and some people are selling durians from a stand.

A glimpse of the traffic in Bangkok. This photo is from the intersection Ratchadamri Road-Rama IV Road.

Peter on his way to New Empire Hotel in Bangkok.

The Tien Fa foundation chapel in "Chinatown", Bangkok.

17.08 We got off at the bus stop Sala Daeng as we had been told but we ignored the order about taking the metro and instead began to get to our new home on foot. After a brisk walk passing temples, monks, gentlemen offering train- and bus tickets (some of them from some ticket ministry) and hotels, we´ve reached our new home. We are in room 607 at New Empire Hotel in Krung Thep Maha Nakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayutthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udom Ratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Phiman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanu Kamprasit, Krung Thep for short aka Bangkok.

This temple is adding some colour to the Bangkok skyline.

18.49 For some for us unknown reason one of Christer´s shorts have gone damp and got blue stains. It laid in his backpack between a towel and the other clothes. These are all dry and spotless. The war against the spots is on. There isn't much hot water here either.

20.52 We’ve walked around in Chinatown just next to our hotel. We’ve been met by a cacophony of lights, sounds and scents. Now we’ve sat down at Mr Chew’s Speciality Restaurant. A young waiter is beyond serviceminded; we seem to be the best thing that ever has happened to him so far in his life. The street is filled with a myriad of small streetrestaurants but we chose to go indoors to get some peace and quiet.

The street is filled with small restaurants and foodstalls on Yaowaraj Road in Bangkok.

Christer is trying to take a photo of Bangkok in darkness but he´s using a camera close to its retirement.

21.43 Just as we had left the restaurant we saw an elephant, a gray one that was led around among all the cars and people. Through the years we’ve dined at restaurants with an elephant in their name (20/6 2003, 17/7 2004), shopped at a place with an elephant as a symbol (5/7 2004) and also seen a bush cut as one (1/7 2004). But now for the first time ever a genuine, although small, elephant. It is time to lay out plans for our days here.

PS: The unknown fruit is called santol.


You can see 11 photos from July 2 in this photoalbum.
You can see 17 photos from July 3 in this photoalbum.
You can see 20 photos from July 4 in this photoalbum.
You can see 21 photos from July 5 in this photoalbum.


CONTINUE


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