Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt
Wednesday 28th of June
07.37 It is morning in room 304 at Washington Inn (https://thewashingtoninn.com) in Oakland, California, USA. Sharing memories with a travel companion is nice. Sharing a bed with a fellow traveler is cramped. We were forced to split the double bed into two zones with a pillow between us. As mentioned earlier, there were simply no centrally located hotels in Oakland that offered twin beds at human prices. We will soon find out what a continental breakfast at this hotel is like.
08.46 We waited for the elevator and soon it stopped on our floor. The doors opened and out of the elevator shot two small and mainly happy dogs. Soon after, their calmer master followed. We got into the elevator and went up one floor before turning back down. The breakfast selection in a sterile dining room was of the simpler kind and I missed a little more toppings. We received juice and coffee in paper cups, a small yoghurt, a mixed selection of coffee bread and breakfast bread and paper plates to eat on. Here, there is no environmental consideration regarding recycling. All breakfast leftovers went straight into the bin afterwards. I have to hope for a better breakfast selection in the next city and country.
09.55 We have an overall idea and activity plan for the day. We know what to do before we head south.
11.14 After some time in the room with eleven o´clock coffee and a video from Roberth's adventures in Naantali and Turku in Finland, we will now leave the room and end the hotel stay here in Oakland.
11.25 So we took the elevator and stopped at the second floor. There, a lady with a bicycle wanted to use the elevator. However, she waited and we were able to leave. We checked out and then left the backpacks behind the reception desk. There they have to wait until the afternoon when we will head to the airport.
11.34 We take a longer walk along 14th Street and will now fill a few hours with meaningful content before lunch and then travel to the airport.
11.55 It's another cool day here in California but it's slowly getting warmer. We are currently sitting on a bench at Lake Merritt. It is a large tidal lagoon in the center of Oakland, California, just east of Downtown. It is surrounded by parks and various neighborhoods. Out on the water, you can travel on boats of various types. Around Lake Merritt there are plenty of people walking or running.
12.13 We have made a bench change. This bench has a plaque commemorating the couple Chung Fong Tung (1906-1998) and Shu Feng Hu Tung (1919-2019). A lady passing by speaking on her cell phone said, "She was the one nobody liked. Not even Uncle George!" A little further away is a rowing club and The Lake Chalet Seafood Bar & Grill.
15.31 At Coliseum station we have changed trains. Now we continue the last stretch to Oakland International Airport. Next to us is the Oakland-Alameda County Coliseum.
TIME ZONE CHANGE
MEXICO
23.56 We are now ready to step into the country that is the real destination of the summer. Great Britain and the USA have only been intermediate stations on the way here. It is also the first time in a long time that we are visiting a completely new country for both me and Christer.
Thursday 29th of June
The simple breakfast selection at the Washington Inn.
Peter in the breakfast room.
Wall art along 14th Street, Oakland.
Lake Merritt, Oakland.
Rowers on Lake Merritt.
A happy Peter takes a bench break.
Relaxing setting at Lake Merritt.
Resurrection Oakland Church.
Christer is having an Italian lunch today.
City Center Pizzeria, Oakland.
Coliseum BART Station. Here we change trains.
To the airport!
Oakland International Airport.
Peter is waiting for check-in.
Here we sit and wait.
Christer visits the Oaklandish Coffee Collective.
00.50 Passing passport control went smoothly. However, we were surprised that we didn't have to fill in any tourist card that we read we need. Maybe the rules have changed recently? It didn't go so well when Christer was buying Mexican pesos for us. There was some bureaucrucy and writing on both paper and screen from the young lady in the exchange office. When he was about to enter the code, the VISA card was bent to breaking point when the card reader was pushed out from under the protective glass. Our backpacks, lying alone and abandoned on the luggage belt, were seconds away from being driven away. Entry papers were then filled in by us. It was a paper that was then, without further examination, placed on a pile of other papers and we had to pass through customs. Once beyond the gate, we saw small kiosks and an ATM. Christer booked and paid for a taxi in a cash register and now we are waiting to go with it.
01.04 It was a little chaotic at the taxis and it was unclear which queue went to what and why. We have pre-booked our trip but we don't know if everyone in our queue has. 01.10 Now we have finished waiting. It is our turn to be directed to a car and a driver to take a taxi into downtown Guadalajara. For the first time in almost four years, we are in a completely new country for us. 01.39 Guided by a Spanish-speaking voice in a GPS, the driver took us through the outskirts of Guadalajara into the central parts, the historic colonial heart of the city. We stayed outside the Hotel Santiago de Compostela (https://hotelsantiagodecompostelagdl.com). At first we thought the hotel was completely closed but a man waved us in through a door. Here at the hotel, we stay in room 112. It's almost time to sleep, but first we have to consume drinks and a few other things that we bought in Oakland before the flight. 08.58 Sleeping and showering here in Guadalajara and Mexico have gone well. I have now slept and showered in all 23 countries of North America. Guadalajara is Mexico's second largest city and has 1,495,182 inhabitants. The city which is the capital of the state of Jalisco was founded on February 14, 1542 and is named after the Spanish city of Guadalajara. Nearby is the town of Tequila, where the spirit drink of the same name is made. Guadalajara is also known for its mariachi music. 09.43 Shortly we´ll leave our room to go out into the Mexican reality to buy breakfast. There is a breakfast buffet adjacent to the hotel but it is expensive.
Good morning from Guadalajara!
The interior of Hotel Santiago de Compostela.
Hotel Santiago de Compostela, Guadalajara.
Plaza Las Nueves Esquinas, Guadalajara.
Jardín de San Francisco, Guadalajara.
Demonstration to stop violence towards women.
10.26 A walk in the neighborhood took us to the cozy little square Plaza de las Nueve Esquinas. In one corner of the square we found the small convenience store OXXO. There we bought a classic bedside breakfast. OXXO is a Mexican chain that has been around since 1976. It has over 21,000 small convenience stores in Latin America and more than 15,000 of them are here in Mexico. The range is roughly the same as at a Swedish petrol station (except petrol and car accessories then).
10.54 We have now had our first meal in Mexico. Should we take a siesta already or do we see more of Guadalajara right after the late breakfast? 11.11 We chose to try to see more of the home city. We have crossed the street outside the hotel and reached the Jardín de San Francisco square/park. Now a man with prosthetic legs passes in front of the two of us who are taking a bench break in the scorching sun. Here is Los Dos Templos. They are two beautiful churches, Templo de Nuestra Señora de Aranzazú and Templo y Convento Franciscano de San Francisco de Asís. The buildings are from the 18th century. 11.27 Something that happened often when we traveled in Peru was that we took a bench rest in all the squares that bore the name Plaza de Armas and also saw a cathedral connected to these squares. We recognize this even here in Guadalajara, Mexico. The tree-lined Plaza de Armas is bustling but the Catedral de Guadalajara seems to be sleeping. 12.15 It has been film activity in the Plaza de la Liberation, a beautiful square with the cathedral as a background and the name of the city in the form of large letters on the square. A film crew stood in front of a fountain in the square, but Christer also filmed with his mobile phone. 12.22 After looking around more in the central parts, we found a Starbucks Coffee on Calle Degollado. As usual, they wanted to know our names when we ordered. This is the 40th country that we visit the two-finned mermaid's cafe. Besides the two of us, there are a few female police officers in here taking a coffee break. Outside, two football mascots wander around. They will represent Chivas from Guadalajara and Club América from Mexico City.
Catedral de Guadalajara.
Plaza Guadalajara.
Avenida Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla with both older and newer means of transport.
Letras de Guadalajara, the name of the city, is a popular photo motif.
Guadalajara's beautiful cathedral was built between 1561 and 1618.
Christer on Plaza de la Liberation, Guadalajara.
13.01 Coffee, it is the spice and driving force of life. It's amazing how much that drink can boost energy levels, mood and well-being. Now we're going to get out of Starbucks and graze more of the surrounding area.
13.44 After seeing the Rotunda de las Jaliscences Ilustres with statues of local celebrities and a bit more of the Plaza de Armas, we have returned home to the hotel. Here in the 112 it is freshly cleaned, gracias! 14.19 The bus tickets for tomorrow's journey have now been purchased. They were bought online. We will travel with the company Primera Plus. According to information, Mexico's long-distance buses must maintain high quality and depart from well-organized bus terminals. Tomorrow we will see if this is true. 15.38 After gathering strength, cooling down and filling up on drinks, we think about visiting a good friend later in the afternoon. 16.28 We chose to take a different route from the hotel this time. We started from the Jardín de San Francisco and walked a few more intersections before we found Calle Degollado, the street that passes the Starbucks where we were sitting a few hours ago. 16.45 After a walk along Calle Morelos, a street whose name sounds something like the Swedish musician Kalle Moraeus, we are now at a large fountain, Fuentes de los Danzantes. The square here in the area is called Plaza Tapatía. Here there are sculptures, even more fountains and various shopping opportunities.
Christer visits Starbucks Coffee on Calle Degollado.
Teatro Degollado, Guadalajara.
Calle José María Morelos, Guadalajara.
Monument dedicated to Beatriz Hernández, one of the city's founders.
Plaza de Armas, Guadalajara.
The state of Jalisco is governed from here.
17.10 We walked back along Calle Morelos and first saw an interesting fountain, Fuente De Los Niños Traviesos. In the disobedient children's fountain, some children stand and pee against each other. Now we visit the hamburger restaurant Carl's Jr Degollado (https://carlsjr.com.mx). It's a burger chain that pleased our mouths and bodies when we celebrated New Years in California 2019-2020. When we visited Carl's in Málaga, Spain last year it was good but something was missing. However, we were more satisfied with the visit to San José last week.
17.56 They were good hamburgers but, just like in Spain, not as good and not as big as in the United States. Now we have bought a little of each at the 7-Eleven near our hotel. There was no evening beer for me. All the beers were locked up for some reason. 18.21 Now I've done something I've done so many times before on trips. I have washed clothes in the sink and taken a bath in the bathtub. It is a large and spacious bathtub. 19.18 We have a quiet evening in our room. Dinner is already eaten and the most important thing in Guadalajara already seen in daylight. Languid piano music can be heard from downstairs in the lobby where a pianist entertains. 19.54 We enjoy the beautiful relaxing music and some evening drinks. Suddenly the phone in the room rings. Christer answered and heard even more music. Once again we have received a mysterious phone call. Now The Beatles Let it be is played by the pianist that we only hear but cannot see.
Escultura Cabeza Gigante, Guadalajara.
Rotonda de los Jaliscienses Ilustres.
Peter in Guadalajara.
Templo y Convento Franciscano de San Francisco de Asís.
Fuentes de los Danzantes, Guadalajara.
Fuente De Los Niños Traviesos (Fountain of the Disobedient Children).
21.04 The piano music has stopped. Now we instead focus on football and the Gold Cup tournament. It's half time in the Haiti vs Mexico match. It's 0-0.
21.20 The second half has barely started when Mexico scores 1-0 or it becomes 0-1 as Haiti is counted as the home team. Henry Martín is the goalscorer. The match is played in the USA, specifically in Glendale, Arizona. 21.30 Now a player from Haiti managed to get the ball into the goal. Unfortunately, the ball is behind the own goalkeeper. 21.51 It was more successful this time. The ball is in the right goal and Haiti reduces to 1-2 through Danley Jean Jacques. There are around ten minutes left in the match. 21.56 And now it's a goal again, 1-3. A search on the internet tells us that the shops here are allowed to sell alcohol between 09.00 and 12.00. Could it really be true? 22.34 Mexico won the Gold Cup match. They seem strong again this year. Roberth's film about the trip to and stay in Nystad, Finland was good. It's raining outside. Regarding the alcohol regulations, they seem to vary from day to place. We will learn more about this. 23.15 The first day in Mexico is coming to an end. We have learned to navigate in this country as well, but we have not yet had time to try any local food. It may come in other cities. Guadalajara is a nice big city, a suitable place to start the Mexican adventure.
Christer eats dinner at Carl's Jr. Degollado.
Peter is ready to test the bathtub.
Friday 30th of June
09.10 It is the last day of the month. Hotel Santiago de Compostela wakes up around our room. It's time to get ready to travel. First, however, we have to eat the purchased breakfast.
10.08 The first decision of the day has been taken. We don't go to OXXO to buy anything for the bus trip. We hope to find something at the bus terminal instead. 10.53 Now it's time to leave our first Mexican hotel and move on to the next city. First we have to get to the bus terminal. There is a long line of taxis outside the hotel. One of these will probably want to give us a ride for a fee. 11.05 We are sitting in the back seat of an older model taxi. In the front seat are our backpacks. Now we are going to the Nueva Central Camionera bus station. It is located in the eastern parts of the city and it is about a mile from our hotel. 11.37 It took us about half an hour to get out to the bus terminal. The driver didn't have change on my 500 peso bill. Christer, who had lower denominations in his wallet, paid instead. The taxi meter showed the sum of 113 pesos (approximately Swedish 72 kronor) but the driver for some reason wanted 180 pesos. However, Christer did not have that amount. However, everything was resolved when the driver accepted the money we had to offer. Now we are inside the bus station. 11.54 After buying a double espresso for 24 pesos, 15,25 kronor, we have shown the tickets to a security guard. Now we are sitting in the waiting room. What kind of bus are we waiting for? The bus terminal is quite large with different departments depending on which bus company you are traveling with. 12.23 Seats 21 and 22 on the Primera Plus (https://www.primeraplus.com.mx) bus from Guadalajara to Aguascalientes are where we will sit during the journey. Soon we will continue traveling through Mexico. The marked backpacks are in the cargo area. We have been given a small note that we have to show in order to get the right bag back on arrival. 12.59 The Mexican landscape we travel through shows land that is thirsty. Different shades of brown can be seen along the highway through the state of Jalisco. Inside the bus are comfortable seats, plenty of legroom and cool. We also have a small TV monitor at each seat. This is luxurious.
We have arrived at the Nueva Central Camionera bus terminal.
Soon we will be boarding one of the buses from Primera Plus.
Each seat has its own screen for entertainment.
Comfortable on board our bus.
Along the highway in the state of Jalisco.
Our bus is on its way into Aguascalientes.
13.36 The bus we travel in has a men's and a women's toilet. This is something new for me, on a bus that is.
14.40 The bus has stopped at the state border between Jalisco and Aguascalientes. Outside there are men in military clothes and orange warning vests. There is also a dog without clothes. Is there some kind of inspection? Are they looking for drugs or what is going on?
14.48 After examining the bus without any objections, we now continue our journey north. Sometimes a rooster can be heard crowing inside the bus. Is that someone's cell signal or am I crazy? 15.25 The bus stopped at its last stop, the Central de Autobuses bus station in our upcoming hometown. The backpacks were taken out of the cargo area and again I heard the rooster. Does it go with the luggage? It's time for Christer and I to walk a few streets north here in Aguascalientes. In 2015 we were in another Aguascalientes. That time we were at Machu Picchu in Peru. The Mexican version of Aguascalientes is the capital of the state of the same name and has 722,250 inhabitants. The city was founded on October 22, 1575. The name comes from the Spanish aguas calientes which means hot water and refers to the hot springs in the area. 16.02 City Express Junior Aguascalientes Centro is the name of our newest hotel. It is strategically located at a roundabout with a large statue of national hero Benito Juárez in the center. This time the room number is 401. On the way here we bought drinks and sandwiches in an OXXO store. They are in this city too. It feels like a stable chain that could become the store of the year for us. 16.53 The purchased snacks have been consumed here in the room. It is now time to plan the rest of the afternoon and evening. 17.09 On TV, CNN reports that no one has seen Wagner group leader Yevgeny Prigozhin for a couple of days.
Room 401 will be our home.
Window view from our room.
City Express Junior - Aguascalientes Centro.
Benito Juárez, Mexican national hero.
Country Break Americas, Aguascalientes.
Peter is waiting for dinner.
17.45 Now we are not postponing anything more. Instead, we go out. We need a dinner.
18.00 There is sport on the TVs and we have each ordered a Blue Burger and a Corona beer. We chose the larger version of the burger called tremendous. We are at Country Break (http://www.countrybreak.rest/) on Avenida Las Américas a short distance from the hotel.
19.11 That was both filling and good. We should do this eating thing several times in this country. Tomorrow morning we will try a hotel breakfast. It is included in the price. On the way home we checked out more restaurants for tomorrow. Before going home, we also shopped at the OXXO store at the roundabout outside the hotel. Today we actually got to buy beer. Outside it is +21˚C and raining. Aguascalientes is located at an altitude of 1885 meters above sea level, so the temperatures here are quite pleasant. 20.58 The rain outside has increased in strength, there is thunder and lightning. Here in the room, we have some problems getting the right swing, pressure and temperature of the AC. 22.15 After drinking the purchased Victoria beer and watching Roberth's daily film from the cycling trip through Finland (from Nystad to Pori) we will now read a little in our books. Tomorrow we have a full day here in the city. It will be nice and interesting. 23.25 The rain has made Benito Juárez wet outside the hotel. Friday is over and a weekend awaits us. Now we are going to sleep one night at this comfortable hotel before the weekend and the month of July begins.
Christer and our dinner at Country Break Américas.
A rainy evening in Aguascalientes.
Saturday 1st of July
06.18 The month of July begins with me emptying my bladder in a specially designed porcelain piece of furniture. On the road below the hotel are some vehicles with flashing red and blue lights. Whatever happened, I'll sleep on for a while longer.
08.10 I am newly awake and freshly showered in hot water. It fits well considering that the city's name Aguascalientes means exactly warm water. 09.30 Our first Mexican hotel breakfast is finished. It was served in the lobby next to the reception where we checked in. There was a shortage of bread and toppings. We got good unsweetened juice and sugar-free snacks. Definitely healthy! 10.28 Just as Roberth released the video that sums up his day in Finland, we will start adding content to our day that has just begun. This Saturday we will use to discover the best that Aguascalientes has to offer. As so often in Latin America, there is a central square where most of the sights are located. 10.36 There was just a knock on our door. It was a female representative from the city office who wanted to come in. Who are we to say no to that. We go out and let her in. 10.52 We are now on a stone bench, at a stone table in the small park Jardín Miguel Hidalgo. It is calm and peaceful here. Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla was a Mexican Catholic priest and the main instigator of Mexico's War of Liberation against Spain. Hidalgo is hailed today as the father of the nation of Mexico. We have seen that he has given names to a number of places so far, e.g. the airport we landed at. It is slightly cloudy and a perfectly OK temperature today. Prosperous, fat pigeons coo around us.
Morning in our room.
Hotel breakfast at City Express Junior.
Christer at Jardín Miguel Hidalgo.
A Volvo from the car company Suecia Car San Luis gives us Swedish memories.
Peter writes journal notes in Jardín de los Palacios.
Plaza de la Patria, Aguascalientes.
11.05 Some distance away from us a man is singing. We soon arrive at one of the city squares. A Pepsi van passes and a dog barks. We have sat down on a bench in the Jardín de los Palacios, located at the back of the Palacio de Gobierno, the center of power in the state of Aguascalientes.
11.37 It is hot in the square Plaza de la Patria. This is the heart of the city. Here is the city's cathedral (Catedral Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción), a fountain and the city's name embedded in fabric or some crocheted material. Everything is beautiful and worth photographing. However, the monument (column) Columna de la Exedra from 1808 is difficult to photograph. Here in the square, young girls walk around and want money to help homeless dogs. Others who are here (more expected) are Jehovah's Witnesses. 12.07 After more photos and a shorter hunt for some cafes that we didn't find, we now take a break and have ordered coffee and toast. We are at Café Catedral, a very nice café that we found by chance in the square after we had given up on finding the ones we were looking for. 12.27 We have been sitting outside and enjoying a nice coffee break. There were good toasts and chips and also good coffee. Soon our adventure through the city continues. 12.40 The busy square has been left and we are back in the Jardín de los Palacios on a bench some distance from where we sat at five past eleven. Possibly we will return home soon. 12.49 We're not giving up yet. It's too early for a siesta. We have decided to take a slightly longer walk home to cover a few more sights. We walk west on the street Venustiano Carranza. 13.14 The music is happy, the tree leaves are green, the tree flowers are purple and the bench is white. We are inside the Jardín de San Marcos park. We have also seen a bridal couple. 13.18 We came out of the park and were a bit lost for a while before locating ourselves. Now we have photographed one of Aguascalientes most beautiful churches, the San Marcos Church. Officially, it is called Parroquia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen. Next to us we have a musician and some people selling hamburgers and other simple dishes. The sun has started to get brutally hot. We'll probably start the walk home now.
Columna de la Exedra, Aguascalientes.
Palacio de Gobierno del Estado De Aguascalientes.
Letras Aguascalientes.
The city's letters wrapped in various fabric materials.
Good coffee and good sandwiches at Café Catedral.
Café Catedral, Aguascalientes.
13.51 Traveling and experiences are wonderful. Coming to a cool hotel room is no shame either. At first we didn't get into the room. Christer had to go to reception to recharge our key card. In the football Allsvenskan at home, Malmö FF beat Sirius 3-0.
15.19 For SEK 232 each, Christer has bought bus tickets for the two upcoming bus journeys. It will be trips with the same bus company (Primera Plus) and actually the same places we used on the trip here. However, there will be different destinations in any case, not everything can be the same. 17.15 We have had a siesta in the room. CNN is on but we don't take in much. They mostly talk about the same things. 17.55 Hunger lures us out of the room. We have some possible options for Saturday's early dinner. 18.20 The music was very lively at one of the restaurants we selected, Merendero San Pancho Clásico. Then it's significantly calmer and more pleasant at Terrazza Italiana Americas (https://terrazzaitaliana.mx). We have ordered pizzas and beer and are now waiting for food and drinks. 18.37 Christer has now received his beer, his pizza and a plate. I only got my beer and a plate. 18.40 Now the young waitress came by with a tray of pastries. She asked if we wanted some. We informed her instead that I was waiting for my pizza. She had missed my order. She was apparently so sure that we would share a pizza that she stopped listening when Christer said which pizza he wanted. 18.52 My pizza is finally here. It has plenty of filling and looks really good.
Wall sculptures in Patio Jesús Fructuoso Contreras.
A tired street musician at the Jardín de San Marcos.
Peter in the Jardín de San Marcos.
Christer in front of Templo de San Marcos (Parroquia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen).
Hotel view towards the bullring.
Saturday dinner will be at Terrazza Italiana Americas.
19.45 The pizza was good, but it's a shame that it messed up so we had to eat out of time. Before going home, we also visited the OXXO store at the roundabout outside the hotel. We bought some provisions for tonight and also for the bus journey tomorrow.
20.21 In the soccer tournament Gold Cup, the match Guatemala vs Canada is 0-0. It is also 0-0 in the women's match El Salvador vs Mexico. This match is in the Central American and Caribbean Championships. All this sports drama is followed on TV in our room. 20.46 It's 0-0 even at half-time, but now it will be enough with football. Over in Finland, Roberth has just woken up and will soon continue cycling. 21.24 Back to the sport on TV. El Salvador reduces to 1-2 on penalties against the Mexican ladies. 21.35 Mexico extends to 1-3. 21.47 The match is still alive. Now it's 2-3, but not much time left. 22.15 Mexico won, the El Salvador girls cried and we have seen the latest video from Roberth's journey. The men's match between Guatemala and Canada ended goalless. 23.17 We are getting ready for the second night here at the City Express Junior hotel. Tomorrow we leave for the next town.
Finally Peter got his pizza.
OXXO and Benito Juárez, two important Mexican institutions.
You can see 31 photos from June 28 in this photoalbum.
You can see 69 photos from June 29 in this photoalbum.
You can see 20 photos from June 30 in this photoalbum.
You can see 60 photos from July 1st in this photoalbum.