Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt



Saturday 23rd of July

07.50 We've woken up in our small room in the stone house at Camp Carnelley's (http://www.campcarnelleys.com) by Lake Naivasha in Kenya. In about two hours we will check out and travel on. Christer seems to feel better. He fell asleep with a fever yesterday evening but it disappeared during the night. I guess things can only get better now.

08.48 The birds around us have a concert while we wait for our breakfasts. At a table a short distance away there are a few tired Germans. An ant has strayed to my left leg. We are thus in the restaurant Lazybones for the last time.

09.34 Most things are now cleared and prepared before check-out and departure. Now we have basically done everything that falls on us for today's trip. Now we set our hopes on our ordered transport.

09.52 Once again yet another key has been returned. All that is left now is waiting. The black dog we met the other day is walking around us, does it want to say good-bye and wish us a happy journey? When will our ordered car arrive? Will our car arrive?

10.07 We asked in the reception about the car and was told that it was on the way. It came a few minutes after 10.00. Just before the vehicle rolled in a white dog with black spots came. Did it also wanted to say good-bye to us? Now, we are in any case on the way to the capital city of Kenya. It has been lovely here at the lake but unfortunately the stay was partly destroyed by Christer's sickness, but such things happen sometimes.

10.39 The landscape at our side is turning drier and more barren. It is not so many green areas here.

11.07 We have passed a road stretch on a hill with stunning views over the plains and the savannah below. Unfortunately, no animals were seen today. We are approaching Nairobi. It is less than 40 kilometres left. The environment is now greener and there are more trees than half an hour ago.

Preparing for this morning´s check-out.

It´s 10am. There is a dog here but no car.

Dry landscape east of Naivasha.

Beautiful views during today´s car trip.

11.28 We have rolled, been driven downwards for a while and had a nice view over the valley to the right. Now cars are about to queue up in front of us.

11.47 For about fifteen minutes, we´ve been going on a two-lane road. Concrete foundations or a ditch separates us from the oncoming lane.

12.10, We are now in the bustling Nairobi. We passed several nice affluent neighbourhoods, among others Westlands before we reached the city centre. The driver has just gone out of the car to most likely to ask for directions to the hotel we are going to. We are now parked on Tom Mboya Street and there is a lot of walking people in motion around us.

12.45 We have, after further inquiries, a parallel parking and a short walk, reached Hotel Topaz (http://hoteltopaz.co.ke). Our driver was checked with a metal detector at the entrance to the hotel. We checked in, paid for two nights, was promised the change later and was shown up to room 406. Here we have a nice view over the city centre.

13.29 We have updated ourselves and our surroundings about our and the world's situations. Ten people have been killed in Munich, Germany in an act of a madman. The room is in all cases prima, a welcome return to civilization after a few days in a simple stone house.

13.36 The room has just shown its ugly side. There is no hot water in the shower and in addition, the sink is clogged. There is also a window in the bathroom door, which provides free in - and out sight.

13.59 We went down to the lobby and at reception we asked about the hot water, it would be arranged. We were informed about the way to the hotel restaurant. Go out from the hotel, turn left, go into the next gate and go down stairs. The restaurant looks the most like a nightclub that is open during the day but they surely must have food?

Our room at Hotel Topaz.

The view from our window.

We are looking down on a Nairobi street.

Christer can eat properly again.

14.45 After the food, we, well, in all cases I, craved coffee. We ordered a cup of black coffee each. It took a little time but then came the waitress Emmah. She had two cups with tea. Had something gone wrong when she typed in the order?

15.03 We returned home to the hotel. It was no long walk, only 1-2 meters from the restaurant. At the reception we asked about the change, wondered if the water worked, and in addition we wanted to have a remote control. No hot water yet and the remote control does not work.

15.06 There was a knock on our door. Now the water heater works and we have a new remote. Some less good news, the ticket office we intended to visit to buy the bus tickets to Tanzania on Monday closed already at 14.00.

15.57 Happy knowing about the hot water Christer went into the shower. After a short while it was end of the fun. The water heater has broken down again.

17.58 The hunger has returned. We need to go out to get some food. But where should we go? In addition, we must tell about the hot water again, and get help to plug in the TV. I managed to pull the plug from the wall socket and can not get it back again. There are many practical problems this day.

18.35 Christer has with the help of Google Maps brought us to Java House. It thus becomes yet another visit to this chain. Only here in Nairobi, there are 33 different Java House. Here, we have ordered grilled meat. Outside the restaurant there was a car from South Sudan parked.

20.04 Grilled is always better. In addition, we got coffee afterwards. We had to pay for them but we didn't get tea this time. On the way home, we looked desperately and in the end we finally found a place that sold beverages, a take-away restaurant. Here at home we have been helped to plug in the TV plug. For the moment the water heater works.

21.56 It is again a quiet evening. Outside we hear the intense sound from honking cars or is it buses? It is only to hope that it calms down.

22.37 The infernal honking continues. Have people nothing else to amuse themselves with? Despite this, we should try to sleep. Here in the malaria free Nairobi, we have beds without a mosquito net.

Christer is having dinner at Java House, Mama Ngina Street.

Evening in Nairobi.


Sunday 24th of July

08.50 We finally fell asleep despite all the honking. How we succeeded is hard to understand. We were probably very tired. Now it has been 1 ½ hours since we woke up and not much has happened yet. We have been surprised over the phenomenon of Pokémon Go that we have read about on the internet. What drives people to do what? Well, out there reality and breakfast wait for us. Breakfast is not available here at the hotel on Sundays, so it will be consumed somewhere out on the town.

09.20 When we left our key at reception we got the question if there were any valuables left in the room. Were they interested in them or did they want to warn us of possible thieves?

09.55 We have filled up with more Kenyan shillings from an ATM outside the hotel. Now we are going to eat. Today it will be the breakfast option Country Breakfast at Kaldis Coffee House. We hope for a solid start of the day. The latest news from home is that the former leader of the Swedish center party and also former prime minister, Thorbjörn Fälldin, is dead. We will forever associate this information with eating breakfast in Nairobi.

10.41 We got exactly what we wanted and hoped for. Kaldis is a great place, clean, fresh, spacious and with excellent service. What luck that we found such a place so close to our hotel. Next is it time to arrange so that we can get out of here tomorrow, too.

11.00 We took a walk to buy bus tickets. We have just walked past the park, Jevanjee Gardens. Two men just outside the Riverside Shuttle office wanted us to travel with their company instead. In addition, they wanted us to travel directly now. We did not agree with them. At the office, a gentleman who came into the office asked us if we were from Romania? In Uganda, we were Icelandic, and now we are Romanians. One theory is that people looked at the Euro 2016 football and then just mention a participating nation when they see us Europeans. The confused man claimed that our language sounded like Romanian. Well, now at least we have tickets to the Riverside Shuttle from Nairobi to Arusha in Tanzania, and we depart tomorrow Monday at 08.00

Sometimes you need an ATM.

Kaldis Coffee House, Nairobi.

The breakfast choice, "Country Breakfast".

We hope it is the cleaning staff who took our sheets.

11.11 On the way home Christer decided to do some shopping in the kiosk Bonjour. On the way there we met a man who wondered about our origin. Why are such things so important to know? He claimed that he worked at the city's university and that they had many exchange students from Sweden. He also wanted us to come and have a look but we declined.

11.25 After the purchase, we went home. Here in the room the bed linen is removed and tossed in a pile. We have no towels and the trash basket is not empty. The time has come to plan our remaining time in Nairobi and Kenya.

12.33 We have just come to the realization that the next accommodation would like us to pay US$105 directly upon arrival. In addition, they mentioned in the booking papers that they wanted to have a small deposit in advance to secure the booking. However, I cannot recall that I received any email that mentions this.

12.44 The cleaning man knocked on our door and was let in. We went out and just as Christer got into the elevator the doors shut, and the elevator and Christer went off without me. Someone had pushed after the lift. I had to wait a while, but now we are both down in the lobby.

13.14 We are now back in the room. Here the beds are made but we are still missing towels and toilet paper. They will appear later or?

13.32 Now I've been and asked about the missing stuff. They will arrange it right away.

Christer is waiting for his Sunday coffee.

Yet another Java House visit.

We are looking down on Kimathi Street.

We are walking through central Nairobi.

Kenyatta Avenue, Nairobi.

14.00 No things in sight yet. It is not good. Now we will leave the room. OK now they are finally here, hooray!

14.14 We have returned to the familiar chain Java House but in a new place, Kimathi Street. We are sitting on the other side of the street from Kaldis Coffee House where we had our breakfast. We are about to have afternoon coffee before we´ll see more of Nairobi.

15.02 The coffee break ended and we started to walk towards and through the city's heart and centre. We took a few photographs along Kenyatta Avenue and then continued towards the Nairobi City Hall and an ugly church. On the way there we stopped and talked with a curious man. He first wanted to ask questions about Sweden's education system but it turned out that had fled from the unrest in South Sudan, was it their car we saw yesterday? Now his friends and himself wanted to travel to Lusaka in Zambia, and they needed money. He got 1000 shillings from us but wasn't completely satisfied with it. We said goodbye and now we will continue with our plans.

15.44 After a lot of walking and so much hassle, we finally entered the K. I. C. C, Kenyatta International Convention Centre (http://kicc.co.ke). We are at the top of the building and on its helicopter platform. I was inside the house in 2006, then completely without any hassle. Now Christer had to leave the passport as security to a few soldiers, and we could, after some hassle with the registration, be guided up here via a lift. We have taken photographs in all sorts of directions from here. Now we are going to go all the way down and then walk home.

16.16 We cruised back to the hotel and on the way we said no thanks to different offers. We didn't want to out of the blue go on a safari. Something, however, we would like to do now is to change money to Tanzanian shillings. Nairobi is a quite pleasant city to stroll around in, but here it has been something of an epic record in the number of people trying to beg for funding for various things, who want to sell souvenirs, asking us to go on a safari, and much more. It gets very tiresome after a while.

The Holy Family Minor Basilica, not the most beautiful church in the world.

Nairobi City Hall.

Nairobi from above.

A popular place for photography.

View from the roof of KICC, Kenyatta International Convention Centre.

Christer on the viewing platform.

17.22 Christer has been away and bought breakfast and snacks at Tusky's Supermarket which is just around the corner in the vicinity of the hotel. We can actually look down on their supply intake from our room window. Both on the way there and back, it was some of the local people who bothered him with comments.

19.16 The IOC does not stop Russia from participating in the Olympic games in Rio. There have been requests for this, given the chaos surrounding the use of doping when it comes to Russia. We on the other hand will go out to eat tonight's dinner.

19.55 We are back on the appreciated Kaldis Coffee House. Now it's going to be dinner here. This morning, it was breakfast.

20.56 It was once again ever so tasty. Now we are going to pack as much as possible before the morning's early departure.

21.55 Kenyan TV is broadcasting right now a debate program about the school. It talked about the education system, arson in schools, cheating on tests and teachers skipping lessons. A politician expresses, however, its support for the teaching profession.

22.22 Damn, the honking is worse than ever behind our hotel. You also hear shouting and whistles. Has the country won something that must be celebrated, or what's going on?

23.17 Our need to fall asleep early and get proper sleep is disturbed by the fools on the streets behind the hotel. All the bus drivers seem to have a craze to frantically sit and honk the horn. It might be a tough night ahead of us.

Kaldis Coffee House served a delicious dinner.


Monday 25th of July

06.24 Talk about a trip with many faces! Last night we fell asleep to the honking from motorists and bus drivers. Now it is Monday morning and we have woken up to a preacher and his congregation. The sound from them flows in from the outside. When it comes to the big wide world we have just been notified of an explosion at a restaurant in Ansbach, Germany. A person has died and it is suspected to be a suicidal act. It is cloudy over Nairobi and there is a grey haze in the city.

06.55 We are getting tired of the room. All of a sudden there is no water in the bathroom. We have in all cases had a bedside breakfast. It is important to get nourishment before a long trip.

07.05 Now it has become time to leave the room and the Hotel Topaz. We will soon leave Nairobi and later also Kenya. Tanzania is waiting for us.

07.27 We walked from the hotel among the busy morning tired Nairobians. We came to Monrovia Street, where some buses were parked, one of them was our bus. There are plenty of pale faces on the Riverside minibus. Our luggage has been lifted up and have been tied on the roof and we have found our seats inside the bus.

07.55 Barely had the trip with Riverside Shuttle (http://www.riverside-shuttle.com) started before we got stuck in the morning rush. Now we crawl forward slowly. It is fortunate that we'll go out of the city and not in towards the centre. Traffic is flowing better in our direction.

08.26 The cloud cover and the road has split up. It is 150 kilometres to the border, according to a road sign. Will we make it in two hours?

A group of tourists are awake early, ready to leave Nairobi.

With Riverside Shuttle heading to Tanzania.

We are traveling through Kajiado.

A last stop in Kenya before the border. Here you can buy souvenirs and get some fresh air.

Today´s vehicle.

09.39 We've left the main Nairobi-Mombasa road and now travel through sparsely populated areas on the way to the border. Nature surrounds us. It is reddish-brown soil, dry grass and low trees. Recently we saw a masai. These shepherds are immune to the bite of the tsetse fly. Is it evolution, divine intervention, or a mix? I don't know what. What I do know is that it is around 80 kilometres to the border now.

10.44 The vehicle has stopped at the Paradise Gallery. Here we have stretched our legs and taken the opportunity to visit a toilet. It is the last stop in Kenya before we reach the border. Here are various souvenirs sold.

10.57 The journey continues. Tanzania is getting closer and closer. It is an international company here on the bus. We have among others identified tourists from Belgium, the Netherlands and Denmark among the passengers.

TANZANIA

11.20 We have arrived at the border between Kenya and Tanzania. The border post is called Namanga. It is, apart from travellers, lots of masai women here that chase tourists and others with assorted souvenirs.

11.43 Christer and I have made it past the bureaucracy with checking out from Kenya, fingerprint scanning, photography, and check of the vaccination card control of Yellow fever and check in to Tanzania, with photo, visa control and fingertip scanning. Now we are sitting in the bus and await those yet to undergo the procedure out there. We have kindly said no thanks to a group of selling masai people. A poor Asian man argues with a woman who sells things. She came at him with a bracelet. He returned it and now she wants him to pay for it. She claims that he hasn't given it back there. At least one in the party is not on board. It is apparently a problem with his vaccination card or so or does he lack one. It may be so that he will be vaccinated here on the site. They want, require that you are vaccinated against yellow fever, something that applies in many countries in Africa and South America.

12.15 We are all aboard and will continue. I really don't know exactly how it all ended with the Asian tourist. There is a wind from the open window. We are now in Tanzania, Christer 110th visited country and my 113th.

12.28 It is flat and dry to the left of us. Further afield there is a mountain. Look, over there, a herd of cows and a masai. It's almost like watching a classic East African postcard!

Northern Tanzania has a dry but beautiful landscape.

Some masai men with their animals.

Mount Meru, a 4562 meters high mountain north of Arusha.

13.05 It is flat, dry and tree free to the left. Further away, it is everything but flat. Over there on the horizon is Africa's highest mountain, Kilimanjaro. The mountain is with its 5892 metres above sea level the world's highest freestanding mountain, it is a mountain that is not part of a mountain range. There is no much point to try and photograph it now from a bumpy bus. In some days, we are also much closer.

13.34 We're getting closer to today's destination, Arusha. Another high mountain rises to the left of us. It is Africa's fifth highest mountain, the Mount Meru. It is also Tanzania's second highest mountain after Kilimanjaro. The old volcano reaches an impressive height, 4562 meters above sea level. I'm really craving coffee now.

13.58 Arusha is a vast city and has approximately 400 000 inhabitants. We have reached the city but continues and continues and never seems to arrive. A Spanish lady has been released in the outskirts of the city but we others remain.

14.19 When we booked our hotel, we chose one close to the Riverside office. Of course, it did not stop at that place and it was a completely different location. We had planned to walk to our hotel but had to get a taxi. Carlos is driving us to our future home here. Most things here in Arusha revolves around the safari business so we could barely step out of the bus before the various offers of just this came.

14.44 Arusha Center Tourist Inn (http://arushatouristinnhotel.com) and room 207 is our first home in Tanzania. We stay in a small but cosy room. A man we met at the bus stop is waiting for us and will certainly discuss the safari deals with us. We are not as excited about this as he is. We´ve got better things to do. A lunch would be nice, for example.

We have just moved into room 207.

The hotel from the inside.

The man in the spoon is taking a phot of Christer grabbing a glass of Kilimanjaro beer.

The lunch is finished and the coffee too.

14.56 We popped down two stairs to ask for a towel (has it happened before?) and also a trash can. Now, we have ordered lunch in the hotel restaurant. We drink a beer with a familiar name, Kilimanjaro.

15.47 The safari man appeared at the end of the meal and talked a bit with us about the various options and prices. Unfortunately, it will be difficult to find something interesting here in Arusha. The prices are at a level far above what we can afford during such a long trip. The various excursions offered cost a lot.

16.28 Outside our door, there was a trash can and a towel next to it. Inside our room is two slow globetrotters. It seems to be a slower and more agreeable pace here in Arusha than the pace we left Nairobi early in the morning.

18.22 It is quiet in here. There is no panic. But in a while, we should act and get something done, or?

18.53 We have heard call for prayers from the city's mosques, one located right outside our window, only a street separating us.

20.06 We have returned, stepped down to the hotel restaurant. Now we will have dinner. It is quite far to other restaurants and it is total darkness out there. It feels best to remain on familiar ground for nutritional intake.

21.09 It is nice to be back in our rooms, our home. Now we shall reflect further on how we use our time here in the city. We have two full days here before we´ll travel further into Tanzania.

Our "alarm clock", the nearby mosque at Swahili Street.


VIDEOS


You can see 13 photos from July 23 in this photoalbum.
You can see 37 photos from July 24 in this photoalbum.
You can see 20 photos from July 25 in this photoalbum.


CONTINUE


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