Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt



Wednesday 8th of August

08.34 It's nice to sleep in. We have slept at Brackendene Lodge (http://www.brackendenelodge.com/home.html) in Gaborone, Botswana's capital. We are staying in the center of this city known as "Gabs" by the locals. Today we will therefore explore yet another capital in our world.

10.26 The breakfast is completed. Now we are ready to go out on a little walk downtown. CNN reports that Manila in the Philippines received 504 millimeters of rain yesterday. Here in Africa we are still waiting for the trip's first raindrop.

11.32 After an internet café visit and a little walk in the city center, we´re now sitting on a bench in a park. We have cold winds today. The fence around the park is painted in the national flag´s colours. A short distance away, we have the country's parliament, the National Assembly. It is unclear what the park is called. On our city map, it just says "park". The park has a statue of Botswana's first president, Sir Seretse Khama.

Brackendene Lodge, our home in Gaborone.

Outide our hotel/lodge.

National Assembly

A fence painted with the Botswana national colours.

Christer is in front of a baobab-tree.

12.46 We have been to the bus company Intercape’s office and arranged with the last bus ticket of this trip. The ticket was bought a long time ago but we have, as usual, confirmed the booking with a credit card. After that, we entered "The Mall" and walked along a pedestrian street with various stalls. At the end of it, we went through a portal and met Leo. He went biking and had through SIDA's, Swedish International Development Cooperation Agency; help studied drumming in Gothenburg for three months. He actually knew some Swedish. Furthermore, he offered to sell some art. We bought nothing. Now Christer and myself are at Nando's for a lunch.

13.14 A cold and windy day has changed to a sunny hot day as the sun warmed up our city. Gaborone is a nice city which is easy to walk around in.

14.24 We have scanned the central parts of the city for souvenirs and postcards. We have been looking along the pedestrian street and the shopping center near the bus station on the other side of the railway. We have not found much of use to us. But we have, however, purchased a little to eat at Shoprite. Christer bought some bananas in a market stall not far from Shoprite and we also saw an outdoor barbershop.

Swedish words are spreading worldwide.

The Mall, Gaborone.

The start of the shopping area "The Mall" in central Gaborone.

Bimbos? Where?

15.19 We returned to "The Mall". Now we have found t-shirts to nieces and nephews. We bought some national soccer jerseys. Christer also bought a knitted cap for himself. After the purchase, we returned home to Brackendene Lodge. Now we will take it easy before the evening's activities. At a Shell petrol station we saw a newspaper with a headline that it had snowed in Johannesburg. That's where we're going tomorrow.

16.22 It is time to act.

17.19 With the help of a taxi we traveled to the Riverwalk Mall, a shopping center in the eastern outskirts of the city. Here we are waiting for Christer´s internet friend Engelinah. She wants to meet us when we finally have come to Botswana. While waiting for her, I bought the book "The impossible dead" by Ian Rankin in a book shop here. Christer has finally found postcards! He found them in a pharmacy! However, it was pictures of animals, no images from the city and no cards were bought. Instead he spent some coins on ginger tea. The friend has texted and announces that she will not be here at 18.00, but at 18.30.

Christer bought cheap bananas.

Pool tables can be used outddors in the dry season.

Hairdressers on the streets of Gaborone.

17.38 We will have a small cup of coffee at Equatorial Coffee Company here in the mall, all this to get rid of more local currency. Tomorrow we will leave the country and need no more pulas.

19.10 The two have become three. Christer's friend Engelinah has met us. We have walked upstairs in the mall to the restaurant Apache Spur for dinner. It is yet another Spur restaurant for us during this trip.

20.05 It's been a nice meal. We talked about ourselves and our countries. It's always fun to get information from someone who has knowledge of the country we are visiting, people who can tell such things guide books do not mention. We can ask questions about the things we have seen and wondered about during the trip.

20.57 We took a taxi back to the hotel. We did not go straight, but it doesn´t matter? The trip home was a little fun when all of us tried to find the right way, the two of us who knew about the hotel and Engelinah and the taxi driver who live in the city but did not know about the hotel's existence. The taxi driver insisted on driving us to the hotel entrance though we offered to step down earlier. We are not the only ones that are home. Roberth is back in Sweden after his trip. It will be interesting to hear about his trip to Tokyo.

22.50 Our last day in Botswana is about to end. The TV broadcast from the London Olympics are showing the decathletes struggling on the 400 meters. It's not the same speed as the 400-meter specialists have.

Riverwalk Mall

We were exploring the different stores at Riverwalk Mall.

Christer and Engelinah.


Thursday 9th of August

05.11 This is another one of those early mornings on our travels. Once again, it is a bus that has forced us out of our beds. There are times in life when the breakfast is more of a need than a pleasure. This is one such occasion. We have to consume something, ensure that our bodies accept what is offered. I will at least get me some coffee to start with.

06.00 It's a cold morning with a sky filled with stars. We think we have seen Venus and the three stars in Orion's belt, Does Orion really appear in the southern hemisphere? There may have been some other constellation as well. It is much harder to recognize the stars in this part of the world. People walk purposefully in the morning darkness on their way to work and other daily chores. Now we just sat down on our last bus from Intercape, at least, the last on this trip. Who knows what will happen in the future?

Early morning in the Intercape bus.

We left Gaborone when the sun was rising.

06.36 At the last minute a pale skinned young lady arrived on the bus. Her late arrival was not appreciated by the bus staff. She apologized several times.

06.46 We travel through the eastern suburbs of Gabarone. The sun is coming up over the horizon. The entire eastern half of the sky bathes in a golden glow.

07.24 Gaborone is very close to South Africa, the trip to the border was quick. FKJ 195 GP, was the license number of the bus that we should mention at the border stations. We were asked to write them down when we left Botswana. This was followed by a quick walk across a large, deserted paved surface and as we entered South Africa, we told the number to the man stamping our passports. The border post is called Tlokweng Gate.

SOUTH AFRICA

08.07 Our bus travels further into South Africa. We are in the North West Province. Outside the bus, we now have a fence. Beyond it are cows. Inside an earlier fence, we have seen grey animals with white stripes, kudus. This was at Bona Tholo Game Ranch (http://dale40.wix.com/bona-tholo), a huge area.

08.43 We have travelled through a beautiful mountainous landscape and are now in the cozy little town of Zeerust. Here we have the first stop in South Africa. The dominant language here is Afrikaans. We are actually ahead of schedule for once.

09.25 It's time for a break. We are at the Groot Marico Inn. Here we have a three star hotel, a petrol station, a liquor store and an ATM. We have used some of these facilities. It feels good to have cash in the pocket when we reach Johannesburg later today.

10.39 Intercape have very good coaches, good service and a convenient way to get around in South Africa. The owners are very religious though and we are fed with various Christian messages through the bus's television sets. Today it´s American television series with a thinly veiled Christian message.

Zeerust

The bus has stopped for a break at Groot Marico.

We are soon in Johannesburg.

11.09 The bus has just overtaken two motorcycles with flashing lights. Between them there were some cyclists. It might be the bicycle race Mogalies Train Chase. Traffic builds up more and more and today's final destination is approaching.

12.39 The bus has done its job and we have left it behind us. We are back in Johannesburg, at Park Station and the fast food restaurant Wimpy. Three years ago we and Roberth stopped here for coffee. We could sit at the same table as then or it might be the table next to us. Johannesburg offers as usual cold weather and a clear blue sky. Yes, it's been like that every day we´ve been visiting the city anyway.

13.30 Now we´ve left the bus station. We have stepped into the last taxi on this trip. It will take us to the last accommodation on this year's summer trip. It will be the fifth place in Johannesburg we´ve stayed at. Few cities in the world match that.

13.58 Johannesburg is a huge city and we will stay in the eastern parts of the city, in Rhodesfield by the airport. We are in our third hostel in this neighbourhood. In 2009, we stayed at two different places a few streets away from where we are now. We travelled with a taxi driver in his 60´s who drove us through Johannesburg's city center, along the various highways and intersections. When we got to the right part of the city, it turned out that he needed to put on his glasses to be able to read. He needed to borrow a map to find the right street.

Our room, our house.

Emerald Backpackers, Johannesburg.

Christer is reading in his novel in the South African winter sun.

14.15 Emerald Guesthouse/Emerald Backpackers (http://www.emerald-backpackers.co.za) is the name of our last home in Africa for this trip. They had not received any notice of us from the booking site Hostelworld. However, they smoothly arranged a room for us in room 235 which is located in a small house opposite the main building. Here we have a bunk bed each. This place is run by some nice guys who speak English with a typical South African Afrikaans accent.

15.38 The African pigeon we call "pole vaulter" sings a short distance away, the sun struggles to warm ourselves and our surroundings. We sit in separate brown chair at a similar future brown table. We notice the aroma of braai (grilled meat),we hear a plane taking off and behind me we can see a small pool.

19.13 A little quiet time has been spent in the room. It is as usual for us in Johannesburg, it´s a bit cool in the room. But what else can you expect? We are quite high above sea level, over 1700 meters. It is also winter. To endure, we showered hot and long, and remained in bed under thick extra blankets.

20.03 So, the last dinner in Africa is swallowed. There was pizza which we ordered at the front desk. A pizza deliverer showed up with the long-awaited dinner. Something else that has been ingested for the last time are the Malarone tablets. Now it is just to go home and hope that we did not catch malaria. We have met and spoken with three other travellers. Our South African host is really committed. He shared the information with the Catalan couple from Barcelona on what to visit in South Africa and how long it would take. This was done over a giant map. The third guest we spoke to was a bohemian Dutch guy. We congratulated the Barcelona pair to Spain's gold medals in football but there was nothing they celebrated. As Catalans, they have no greater love for the Spanish national team. This hostel is a prime place to start a trip in this part of the world. For us, it was instead the place where we ended it.

21.51 The long day and the long journey has begun to take its toll. Tomorrow will be no bed sleeping night. It is better to make one now when we can.

No restaurants close to where we are staying. That means we had to call for a delivery.

A fridge or a room? That is the question.


Friday 10th of August

08.29 It's morning in our cold room here at Emerald Backpackers. Today we will travel north, homewards, towards summer. Now I´ve packed my backpack for the last time this summer. Next time I open it, I will be home.

09.12 The breakfast was just the way we want it, varied, appropriate amount and free. Now we will brush our teeth and prepare the last things before we check out and go to the airport.

09.58 Shit!, said the black man with a dripping duty free bag, something is broken. He, and the two of us sit in the last earth bound transport vehicle in South Africa, a minivan. When you stay at the Emerald Backpackers transportation to the nearby airport is included. We've booked seat on the 10.00 departure. Before the departure, we thought it would be good to make a "private" visit to the bathroom. That's when it hit us. We're not going to a deserted bus station and we´ll not go with a vehicle that does not have the facilities needed sometimes. We're actually flying today.

10.30 We have just arrived at O.R. Tambo International Airport. We are waiting to find out when and where we will check in and leave our backpacks.

We are waiting in the shuttle bus going to the airport.

Peter is having coffee at O.R Tambo International Airport.

11.07 While waiting for the check-in, we sat down at the café Capello. Now it will be muffins and coffee.

11.59 So our backpacks are on their way. At check in, we once again met the Zimbabwean-Swedish family we met in Bulawayo. Now we are at the post office here at the airport. Christer is here to send a few last post cards and I am here writing this.

12.27 The post cashier did her utmost not to stress, she, among other things, took a walk away from the cashier for a while. Now we will make a last visit on the internet before we are going to the departure hall.

13.04 We are on board the Qatar Airways flight. We sit in different rows in the middle of the plane. In front of me is the Swedish family. They are also going to Doha. There, however, they will change to a plane to Copenhagen. It suits them since they live in Malmö. Copenhagen is much closer to Malmö compared to Stockholm.

We are ready to fly.

14.55 It is six hours and twenty minutes before the end of the flight to Doha. I just drank a lovely gin and tonic. There was no shortage of Beefeater gin in it.

16.46 It remains 52 kilometers to Tanga. Tanga is Tanzania's northernmost port city. We're not going there, we´ll just fly over it. I have finished a delicious meal. The final touch of the goodies was coffee and brandy. I believe that I am worth that after travelling for 45 days. Life is great.

QATAR

CHANGING TIME ZONE

22.54 We are back at Doha International Airport. The journey has been pleasant. Now it's an hour here before we fly to Stockholm. We went by bus from the airplane. The passengers had been given information about where to get off the bus, depending on whether they would stay in Doha, transfer or otherwise. The boarding cards and tags on our carry on luggage had the same colour code as the signs where the bus stopped. A gentleman with transfer code stepped out at the gate for arriving. Sometimes easy things are difficult to understand.

23.49 The watches have now been changed to Qatar time. Christer bought a football shirt from Qatar's national team and a small speaking camel toy to his nephew Fabian's birthday. Besides this, we walked around and checked the situation here at the airport.

We are in Doha again.


Saturday 11th of August

00.07 We did some further shopping here at the airport before we decided that food is good and sometimes necessary. We enjoyed a chicken dish each at Sterling Food Court. We also sat here in June when we went in the other direction. Here at the airport I have seen no less than three Kånken backpacks. There are many Swedes passing through, most of them on the way home from Thailand. A Swedish teenage girl has had a major conflict with her father and the mother has gently escorted her daughter out of the restaurant. It is not only fine and dandy when the average people is on a holiday.

01.52 We are now getting safety information in Arabic after we just heard it in English. We sit on board Qatar Airways plane that will take us from Doha to Arlanda airport. Now I want to get up in the air.

CHANGING TIME ZONE

03.54 The watches are set for Swedish time. Sometimes things are smooth. I just woke up and barely had time to think about the idea that I was thirsty until a tray of juice and water were offered. Qatar Airways is one of, if not the best airline I have flown with. Now I will try to sleep some more.

05.34 It was an early flight breakfast today. One hour remains of our flight to Stockholm. It will be nice to come back and get room for legs, body, arms, and more.

SWEDEN

07.07 45 days ago we were close to land in Johannesburg. Two days ago we were in a bus on the way to the border between Botswana and South Africa. Here we are in Sweden and at Arlanda airport.

09.04 Here we have traveled over six weeks in six countries in Africa. Wherever we arrived, we were met with friendly smiles and respect. There have been people who honestly cared about us and that we as tourists felt good. We have now been in Sweden for less than two hours and a young guy from Stockholm has just assumed that Christer and I are a gay couple. He laughed and shouted at us. This was based on the fact that we sat next to each other on a bench and looking at my clothes, a pair of shorts purchased in San Salvador and a shirt bought at a Dressmann store here in Sweden. That outfit looked "gay" according to that guy who continued his day shouting at a security guard downstairs. Welcome home!

10.30 We are standing on the platform below Sky City. Here we are waiting for the train that will take us north to Sundsvall.

10.40 Some men with a strong Gothenburg dialect talk football. Could they be GAIS supporters on their way up north to see the game against GIF Sundsvall? They seem to sit on reserved seats where a Swedish lady from Skåne with some younger relatives were supposed to sit. The supporters have had time to get beyond tipsy and can be heard throughout the coach.

Peter has just 300 metres left of this trip.

Christer looked at his new Skoda car.

Peter is writing down the last words in this travel journal.

12.43 It's been an eventful train ride. I talked to an older gentleman who was with the UN troops in Congo in the 1960´s. He had also seen the Victoria Falls. The man took his backpack and his fishing rod and got off in Söderhamn. Beside the man sat and still sits a man from The Hague in the Netherlands. He is on his way to friends who will take him to Jokkmokk. The GAIS supporters have offered the Skåne woman something to drink. She said thanks, but no thanks, today I am grandmother. They continue to converse happily with each other.

14.25 Ok, well, the train arrived to Sundsvall. There the GAIS suporters stepped out for the match, the man from The Hague to take the train to Bräcke and we to started walking to Christer's apartment. Now this is done. Here Christer will remain. I am also going to stay here but just for about an hour. Then I'll go down to the bus station and from there take the bus home. It's been a summer full of experiences, a summer without rain. Outside the apartment the rain clouds gather. The journey is over.


VIDEOS

  • Outside the National Assembly, Gaborone
  • Coffee break at Riverwalk Mall
  • Intercape bus trip through South Africa
  • We are soon arriving in Johannesburg
  • Shopping at Doha International Airport

  • You can see 46 photos from August 8 in this photoalbum.
    You can see 27 photos from August 9 in this photoalbum.
    You can see 6 photos from August 10 in this photoalbum.
    You can see 5 photos from August 11 in this photoalbum.


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