Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt
08.27 This bed at Azimut Hotel (https://azimuthotels.com/Russia/azimut-hotel-siberia) is, to say the least, magical. It takes so good care of me. This time in Novosibirsk has been much needed. We slept well, ate well, the batteries are charged, the energy is on, well as high as it is now possible to get.
09.54 Now we will soon enjoy yet another delicious meal. It is time for a new visit to the hotel's breakfast buffet. 11.04 We are approaching the time to round off the stay in yet another room on this trip. Belongings will get packed. We should not travel on until tonight. Therefore, we plan to leave our backpacks here at the hotel during the time we are seeing more of the city. We hope to find some new views. 11.31 The A/C is off, I have sneezed and the window is closed. Now we are going to check out and find out about our visas are registered and if there is some luggage storage. 11.50, Up until now everything has gone well. We have checked out, got the receipt, registration forms regarding the visas and have left our backpacks. We are now sitting on a bench under a cloudy sky and in front of the Красный Факел, the Red torch theatre. Now we'll spend a few hours, not just here on the bench, but in parts of Novosibirsk we didn't visit yesterday.
The breakfast restaurant at Azimut Hotel.
Lots to choose from in the breakfast buffet.
Площадь Ленина (Lenin Square), Novosibirsk.
Rain has just fallen on the street Ulitsa Lenina.
The State Academic Theatre in Novosibirsk can be found in this building. Lenin (who else?) is standing outside it.
12.33 First, we got up from the bench and walked toward new goals. Pretty soon we started to think and checked where we were. We had gone wrong. We went back to the theatre and went in another direction. We just reached the big Lenin Square with its obligatory statue of Lenin. There was also a round theatre and much more. Now we have a bench break. The melody of "Für Elise" is played on a mobile phone. The weather alternates between sun and rain.
12.43 There has been a bench switch. We are now in the place, the square, which was the Soviet Union's geographic centre. It's called Pervomayskiy Skver. The thunder rumbles above us and flies are walking on us. People, city dwellers are passing by us on their paths in life. 13.10 New meters have been covered, new steps have been taken. We are sitting and standing still by the Alexander Nevsky church. We have thunder above us and a train passes a bit away. We are quite close to the river Ob, but we cannot get there. The railway tracks are between us and the water. 13.23 After having photographed a monument of the Second World War and seen yet another cow statue, we are standing under some trees and look for a rain cover. All of a sudden the heaven opened up, the rain is pouring down and it is totally impossible to carry on. 13.31 The trees did little to save us from the rain. We instead crossed the street and now stand just outside an entrance to an apartment building. 14.02 The rain eased. We have skipped over some puddles and reached Traveler's Coffee (https://www.travelerscoffee.ru/places/nsk/lenina) on Ulitsa Lenina. Here we ordered coffee and pastries. It is nice to be indoors to dry for a while. The girls who work here are really friendly. We are treated as honorary guests.
Fountain near Pervomayskiy Skver.
Here is the spot which was the geographical centre of the Soviet Union..
The Second World War is always present in Russian cities.
Thunder and heavy rain stopped our walk.
Peter is having a coffee break at Traveler´s Coffee.
14.39 Christer just said, out to the rain again. The question is what we´ll do now? Much or perhaps all of the planned things are done. The weather isn't the best for walking.
15.22 We decided for a long walk along the street Vokzalnaya Magistral, which extends from the Lenin Square to the square in front of the railway station. After a short stop at the station, we have begun the return to the hotel. Right now, we are in a small park and have a bench break in the drizzle. 15.37 A movement has been made. We are now positioned outside of our hotel. Here we are sitting and reading in our books and are pleased that the rain stopped. 16.23 We have made an order for today's dinner. The waitress just found a pair of forgotten glasses on the bar counter. She ran off with them. We are back at the restaurant Sibir-Sibir (http://sibirsibir.ru), where we had dinner yesterday. 17.11 It is actually a shame that we should leave this city already tonight. I have rarely eaten such great food as I have done here. 17.24 Christer is in the toilet, changing the way he look at things (from the lenses to the more night train suitable glasses) while I guard the backpacks in the lobby. Then it will be a walk to the rail station. 17.49 We are back in the station. We once passed metal detectors and we got to continue without any alarm. What happens if the alarm sounds? 18.12 All that remains after we bought some snacks for the train trip is to wait before we board our night train. We sit in a huge waiting room. 18.33 We have stepped on board our train. A yellow and blue moose just passed outside the window in our compartment. It was on a sweater that also had a text that read Sweden. One of our compartment colleagues has just changed pants and tried to talk to us in Russian. The pants change went without problems, there is more than one can say about that conversation.
A rainfilled Sunday in Novosibirsk.
Back at the hotel again.
Spoons hanging in the bar at Sibir-Sibir restaurant.
A look into the restaurant car.
It is evening and we have stopped at the station in Yurga.
18.55 While waiting for the train would start, we have been entertained by a young, singing Russian woman. She is in the same carriage but in a different compartment. Now when the train commenced its journey the song has, unfortunately, fallen silent. We will spend the evening and night on board this train before we tomorrow morning wakes up a little further to the east, in Krasnoyarsk.
19.51 I should for a moment put the book I'm reading to the side. It is so that I want to stretch my legs and drink coffee. 20.11 The coffee was good and it was cool in the bistro wagon. Now I'm back. Here and there in the train there are signs with a smoking ban. This applies both to classic cigarettes but also the more modern e-cigarettes. 21.28 It is twilight in the summer evening, and we have stopped outside the yellow station building in Yurga. Out on the platform I can see a man with blue shirt and a flat headdress. On the station building there is information saying that right now it is 19 degrees. 21.59 The darkness and the evening is creeping in across the Russian wilderness. We just passed a shimmering lake. Perhaps it is time to crawl down in the rocking bed?
05.56 I've just woken up in my bed with pure horror in my eyes. Christer was more comprehensive. The reason for the fear was that someone had touched my legs and my cell phone at first glance, was gone. The one that knocked on my leg was the carriage attendant who kindly wanted to wake me up. The cell phone then, was held by Christer. He was just checking the time.
06.29 The night has been summed up during a light morning meal. My sleep has unlike Christer's been good. He has had problems with noise and movements. These came not from him but from the train. 06.56 We stepped off the train in Krasnoyarsk and then went out on the square outside the station building. Once there we went towards a fountain with a lion on top. We had received instructions from our hotel here in the city that we would be picked up and that the meeting place was "the lion". There we met, as agreed, our host Anton. He will now drive us to where we will stay. We feel morning tired and our bodies are aching after a night on the train, but still ready for new adventure. 07.11 Information has been given on how to get in and out of the Granada Mini Hotel. It is like so many other "mini hotels" in Russia, a larger apartment that has been converted into a small hotel. Here are just a few rooms and no reception. Now, we are in room 7 and rest a bit. Around half past nine, some people that Christer know will get here. We will be invited on a tour, a sightseeing daytrip here in the city. 08.07 Christer has received a text message on his phone that our "guides" are on the way. It is time to prepare and be ready.
Inside the Granada Mini Hotel.
The restaurant Свинья и Бисер (Pig and beads).
Today´s sightseeing started at the Krasnoyarsk Dam.
Olga Limbakh is showing us around in Krasnoyarsk and its vicinity.
We didn´t expect this spontaneous boat trip today.
A good atmosphere under the rain cover.
08.14 Just as we stepped out through front door to the mini hotel we got sight of a car that has just driven in through the gate here. They had contacted our hotel and got the code to the gate. The guides/friends are Olga Limbakh and her husband Slava. Christer and Olga have, with the help of the internet been corresponding with each other for many years and she also follows our travel page www.resedagboken.cc. Their young son is, however, not with us today. Luckily there are baby sitters.
08.48 The tour in Krasnoyarsk has begun with a hearty buffet breakfast at the restaurant Свинья и Бисер, Pig and Beads (http://bellinigroup.ru/rest/pig-and-beads). There was a great range with everything one could want. Our hosts are paying for this meal, very friendly. 09.11 Strengthened by the breakfast we are now on the road in the car again. Unfortunately, a light rain has started to fall over the city. 09.22 During the trip through the city of Krasnoyarsk, we have been learning a lot from our local guides. It is invaluable to be able to meet people who live in the place they are visiting. Olga speaks excellent English so communication flows well. Slava is more careful in his usage of English, but he understands the most. 10.11 After a lot of car travel along the Yenisey River and some searching, we have found a good spot for a view over the Krasnoyarsk Dam. It is a hydroelectric power dam in the Yenisey. We are in Divnogorsk, about thirty kilometres south-west of Krasnoyarsk. The dam is 124 metres high, 1 km wide and produces among others the electricity to an aluminium plant. When it was built in the early 1970's it was the world's largest hydroelectric power plant, if you count how much electricity is produced. 10.26 We are now above the dam and look out over the Krasnoyarsk Sea as it is called. It is an artificial lake created upstream the dam. I have taken the opportunity to dip my left foot in the water. Here in the area are various people who are camping and living the outdoor life. 10.54 It has become time for a boat tour. Our friends have spoken with a man who owns a boat here and arranged so that we all get to go around on the lake. There are beautiful views but unfortunately it rains. We sit under a cloth and doing relatively well. It is however raining on the legs.
Boat trip on the Krasnoyarsk Sea.
We have left the boat, ready to move on.
A view from the Tsar fish viewing platform.
Yenisey is the sixth longest river in the world.
This fish will remind us of a book from a local author.
It is time to head up the mountain.
11.32 After the wet rain (is there dry rain?) we are now on the road again. We sit in the comfort of the car, getting dry and go east towards Krasnoyarsk again. There awaits more surprises. This is really an intense day of activity.
11.59 We have come to a stop at a viewing platform (Tsar Fish). We just ordered a light lunch which will be prepared during while we walk to look at the view. 12.26 The views of the river Yenisey is amazing, adorable. In the railings hang, of course, padlocks. It is tradition for newlyweds to go to this place. Here is also a small statue of a sturgeon. A well-known Russian writer comes from a village near here. He is called Victor Astafyev. The fish statue is meant to remind of one of his books. The river stretches out below us. In addition, the sun has started to look at us. This day is shaping up more and more. 12.41 Lunch is served. There will be bread, vegetables and grilled pork. Everything is prepared by a nice man in his simple restaurant at the car parking here. 13.17 It was in its simplicity, very good. During lunch, we had interesting discussions about Sweden and Russia. There were various comparisons about how different things work in our countries. Afterwards Christer bought a coffee mug as a souvenir and we done some other necessary things before we go on to new goals. 13.49 The next stop is made. We are now at the Bobrovyy Log Ski resort. We're going to some sort of cable car. It is really varied today. We have had the time to go with train, cars, boat, and now this. Here it is new and fresh. Displayed here are also signs about an upcoming event that will be held here, the winter Universiade 2019. 13.54 We are going with a ski lift even though it is in the summer. We have come up on the mountain, two in each seat. It was a lovely trip at the height of the treetops. It resembled a little bit the trip we made in Kazakhstan a couple of years ago. Now we are going to calm down and figure out the next move. We sit on a bench and are enjoying the beauty of nature and scents. We have just been discussing what animals and berries that is available and not available here and at home. Cloudberry seems to be unknown here. Can it be so? The scenery and nature looked just like at home. 14.13 We are in a nature reserve called Stolby (http://www.zapovednik-stolby.ru). Here are forest areas and some unique rock formations. Before we go on a walk, we strengthen ourselves with a mixture of tea and Jägermeister, as well as with lingon berries. We are sitting in a small café and have recently received harsh commands from some cleaning women who thought that we were sitting in the wrong place.
We have found a new friend.
Through the forest on our way to the Stolby reserve.
Wonderful nature in Stolby Nature Reserve.
You can identify different peaks and cliffs on these signs/maps.
Krasnoyarsk views on our way down.
The winter universiade will be here in 2019.
14.43 A small forest walk has taken us to yet another viewing platform. Along the way we met lots of Chinese people, a bit unexpected to say the least. We have however gotten closer to China every day here in Siberia, so the number of Chinese tourists is likely to increase. The views up here are incredible, spectacular. The area is called Stolby Nature Sanctuary in English. State nature reserve is the name, roughly translated from Russian.
15.01 Our descent stopped for a while but now we are on the move again. We are once again sitting in the seats of two and two. 15.20 There is a squashed insect in the travel journal. We are once again back in the car. This is a busy day. Imagine if every day was like this. 15.53 It is time for another visit at a zoo. We are at the Roev Ruchey Zoo (https://roev.ru). It is always fun with the animals. Thunder clouds appear in the sky. Hope they do not intend to disturb us. 16.51 This was a nice zoo. It was more elbow-room for some animals. On a number of cages were signs that warned about the animals in the cages. It is OK to have such signs on the cages with the bears and felines, but are herbivores really that dangerous? A highlight was the bear that needed to be showered, got crazy and tried to eat the water. We finished indoors where the reptiles and fish were. 17.50 What a day! Now we are going to eat again. We are at a German restaurant in Krasnoyarsk, Кино и немцы (Movies and Germans) on Ulitsa Molokova. It's Happy Hour, so we get two beers for the price of one. Olga joins us at the table, the plates and the mugs. Slava is away and do other things for a while. He shall, however, be reunited with us later. 20.04 It was very good food, many beers and good company. Inside the toilet was Bavarian grand music. I don't want this day to end. We have discussed a little of each during the dinner, Astrid Lindgren and her books to mention some subjects.
We are visiting Roev Ruchey Zoo.
We remember our 2015 trip when looking at these animals.
Today´s dinner is in German style.
In the evening we visited the Paraskeva Pyatnitsya chapel (Часовня Параскевы Пятницы).
Slava and Olga with Krasnoyarsk in the background.
Christer on the Театральная площадь (Theater square).
20.45 Slava returned and pretty soon we were on the road again. We have travelled up on a hill north of the city centre, Karaulnaya Mountain. Here we see a chapel, Paraskeva Pyatnitsya, and are enjoying views of the city. Not far from here there is a cannon that is fired daily at noon. The shots are blank. We make use of the daylight to the maximum today. Soon there will be darkness.
21.05 We were just about to leave as we met excited happy young ladies. They stepped out from a red giant limousine that was so long that it was an achievement to be able to drive it. Perhaps it is a bachelorette party? 21.40 We make a final stop in the city centre. The darkness closes around us and the long day feels in the body. We are on the Театральная площадь (Theater Square) and take the last photos. In addition to the theatre are, a beautiful fountain, Krasnoyarsk´s own "Big Ben clock tower" and the less beautiful Hotel Krasnoyarsk. 22.12 After stopping for purchase of beverages in a grocery store, we are finally back at the Granada Mini Hotel, overflowing with impressions. A huge thank you to Olga and Slava, who gave us this day, food, views, impressions, events, entry fees and a lot of other things. We hope to meet again sometime in the future and do the same for them. Now the bodies need some sleep.
09.17 The lovely yesterday with all the experiences and activities was followed by a night's good sleep. Now awaits yet another day of waiting. We will, in the afternoon, head for the night train to the east. Here at the Granada Mini Hotel there is a little of each, but we have to arrange with the breakfast on our own.
10.01 We left the room and met the hostess, Kate. She wondered how we were doing and if she could offer us a ride to the railway station in the afternoon. We wondered if we could leave the backpacks after the check-out at 12.00. Our train departs at 16.15. The answer was that we could keep the room until 15.00. What a great service! Anton and Kate speak excellent English and it feels sad that we have not had time to talk with them more than briefly. We have no time to speak with some that master English here in Krasnoyarsk. We had plenty of time earlier on the trip but no one has understood what we said. Now we are on the way for breakfast somewhere in the town. 10.23 The Siberian coffee chain, Traveler's Coffee will serve us breakfast. We are in one of their branch offices on Mira Avenue 111. There will be rice porridge, crepes, and coffee. A certain hunger has, despite yesterday's feast, started to appear. 10.50 It was good from beginning to end. To the porridge we got strawberry jam, a piece of butter and a green leaf. The crepes were also decorated. The coffee was without green and as I want it, black, strong and hot. 11.02 A substantial breakfast in the form of porridge washed down with black strong coffee spurs the stomach. It was bitterly felt in the quick walk back to Granada Mini Hotel. 11.30 We have, if everything goes well, a structure on the remainder of the time here in Krasnoyarsk. First on the agenda are the various bathroom chores here at the hotel. 12.35 At present we got as mentioned structure on our last hours in the city. Will it be as we hope? First it is time for a small walk.
In this building you can find Granada Mini Hotel.
Morning walk in Krasnoyarsk.
Breakfast at Traveler´s Coffee.
Krasnoyarsk has its own "Red square", not as spectacular and famous though.
13.10 We looked at Lenin (for which time in order?) on Площадь Революции (Revolution Square) and then continued to another Traveler's Coffee than what we had breakfast at. We are now on Ulitsa Karla Marksa 135. Here we'll have today's lunch. I messed things up when ordering. I said orange juice and pointed at a mango smoothie. Better then to consult Christer, who master the Russian language better than I do.
14.09 We had portions that gave us just the right amount of food we need now. Now Christer is away and buys some food for the long train journey in a small supermarket near the hotel. I guard the backpacks and wait for my turn. On the way back here we went through the Центральный Парк им. М. Горького (Central Gorky park) with its mini railway, and other fun things for the younger generation. The parks in Russia are always lovely during the summer. 14.25 We are back in the room at the Granada Mini Hotel. It is really nice to get a quick shower before we move on towards the railway station. 15.07 We are no longer the owners of a key. We will soon be leaving the room behind us. 15.31 We went in a slow pace to the station. It's important not to sweat up unnecessarily which easily happens when one is carrying a heavy backpack. Now we rest. We are sitting at the fountain with the lion in front of the railway station, very close to where we were picked up yesterday morning. It already feels like an eternity ago. 15.53 Our rest was interrupted by two Romani women. One spoke in Russian, despite the fact that we pointed out that we did not understand. Her friend was more direct and said money! We kept our rubles. Here on the train, we have first discovered a food bowl in the bed above Christer. Pretty soon we heard and saw a cat in a cage. We are sitting and look through the window out onto the platform. We are discussing who could be the cat's owner. 16.11 Two young men climbed up in the upper beds. Now the cat is not alone anymore.
Lenin is standing on the Revolution square in Krasnoyarsk.
A Russian railway authority building, as interesting as it sounds.
The railway station in Krasnoyarsk. In front of it is the fountain with the lion.
16.27 Our beds here in our compartment are made. We now leave Krasnoyarsk behind us and prepare for this trip´s so far, longest train journey. The fact is that it is the longest train journey we have ever made so far in our lives. We'll be travelling about 18 hours if we understood it right.
17.31 Here I rest and read in peace and quiet when suddenly, I hear a small "Oh!" I look up from the book and into the face of a small guy in a red shirt. Curiously he looks at me and Christer. He waves a little before his mother leads him away. 19.01 A green field can be seen from our compartment and certainly from the other compartments as well. Closer to the horizon are trees in a long row. 19.21 A different little guy has curiously paid us a visit. This wanted to do a "high five" as well as deliver a smile. 21.13 We have walked to the dining car. Between the carriages it is black, drafty and steel plates. Russian trains have many carriages so it can be a real long walk to the bistro. We placed the orders to a waitress who reluctantly left her spot next to an Asian guy. When it was time to order beverages she took Christer by hand and led him off to a refrigerator. She wanted him to choose what type of beer we would drink. To go hand-in-hand with a waitress may sound nice but this specimen was 50+ and had a breath with the scent of vodka. 21.55 At the payment we were asked if we wanted to order champagne and drink with the woman. We politely said no thanks and returned home. Suddenly, we were pleased that there were many carriagess between us and the restaurant car. 22.21 We are about follow the cat, its owner and the other man's example and fall asleep. Our train continues stubbornly to the east, through the Siberian night.
The only one in our compartment who can travel without a ticket.
Our train continues towards the east.
Christer is dining in the restaurant car.
Simple Russian train food at a reasonable price.
You can see 29 photos from July 23 in this photoalbum.
You can see 120 photos from July 24 in this photoalbum.
You can see 16 photos from July 25 in this photoalbum.