Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt
Provinces: Lappland, Jämtland
Municipalities: Vilhelmina, Strömsund, Krokom, Åre, Östersund
Saturday 4th of July
08.35 It is morning in Storsele village and we have woken up at Järjagården (https://jarjagarden.se). Oh, what a great weather, Christer just said with a touch of irony in his voice. It feels familiar somehow, he continued. In short, it's raining a lot outside. The night here in the room has otherwise been good. Not much can interfere in such a quiet place as this one.
09.28 After eating our own composed breakfast and making sure that our room looks tidy, we are now ready to travel from here. However, Christer lacks the plastic bag he usually has around his toilet bag. The old bag has begun to break, a zipper is broken. That is the reason for that action.
09.53 No bag was found. At check-out we saw that other guests here gathered in the restaurant for some kind of planning meeting. Most people who come here are here to hunt or fish. We're just passing through. We're on our way again. First, the journey goes towards Vilhelmina. Wondering where the bag is? Why didn't it want to travel with us anymore?
10.18 Now we are in Vilhelmina, an urban area with 3 445 inhabitants. Previously, this place was called Volgsjö. This name was valid until 1804. Then it was renamed after the wife of King Gustav IV Adolf. She also gave names to the villages of Dorotea (formerly Bergvattnet) and Fredrika (formerly Viska). That name came from the Sami word Vistege, the place that is rich in reindeer lichen. The Queen's name was Fredrika Dorotea Vilhelmina of Baden.
10.54 Now that we have purchased provisions for ourselves and a gift for a future host couple, we will travel on. Now we carry off west towards the mountain world. Let's hope that the eternal rain will gradually subside. So far on the trip there have been rain and low clouds every time we want to see a glimpse of the Swedish mountains.
11.03 "Continue for 177 kilometres" said a familiar voice in Google Maps when we left the E45 and turned into Vildmarksvägen (Wilderness Road) In Ruth we trust. The road we're traveling on, Vildmarksvägen (https://wildernessroad.eu) is an attraction in itself.
11.18 Water falls from above and water is also visible to the right. We go along the shore of Lake Malgomaj. Unfortunately, the weather is far too bad for there to be any good photos. This lake will probably be undocumented.
14.28 We have passed Klimpfjäll and now continue to the summer open Stekenjokk road that runs across the mountains. We just drove across Saxån. There's more snow around us. Unfortunately, we find nowhere to stop to experience and photograph the beautiful views.
17.26 For 446 kronor we refuelled 95 octanes. It was also 96 and 98 octane available.
Sunday 5th of July
Vilhelmina.
A stop by the lake Vuollelite.
The weather looks better further west.
Peter and the Swedish mountains.
Christer is walking towards the bridge between Saxnäs and Stornäs.
Lots of wild orchids along the road.
We finally found a place to stop along the Stekenjokk road.
The snow is still on the ground in Stekenjokk.
The local hospital?
Christer on the Stekenjokk plateau.
Running water and frozen water.
A group of motorcycles are appearing behind Christer.
Stora Blåsjön (Big Blue Lake) in northern Jämtland.
Outside the hotel Pilgrimshotellet in Gäddede.
By the lake Kvarnbergsvattnet in Gäddede.
New petrol is needed before the trip continues.
Lots of lupins along road 342.
We have stopped at a beautiful spot between Håkafot and Svaningen.
Another cup of coffee.
We are in Strömsund, the main municipality in north Jämtland.
Ström church.
A lovely summer evening in Strömsund.
The bridge across Ströms vattudal.
We have moved into a (former) retirement home.
08.29 It is a quiet Sunday morning here in Tullingsås. This is a perfect place to have as a base if you want to tour in northern Jämtland. It is convenient and inexpensive. You stay in a village but are still close to Strömsund. It will be another route for us today. The road we had planned to take to Western Jämtland means too many kilometres of dirt road, nothing we want to expose ourselves to. Christer has thought about some other options instead. Now that we slept and showered, we'll start preparing breakfast out in the common kitchen.
09.25 It was nice to eat this morning as well. The bag that mysteriously disappeared yesterday has just as inexplicably appeared again. Why and where did it hide? Now we will clean out here, pack up and travel through Jämtland. 10.04 After loading the car and leaving the key we sat for a while on a bench out on a meadow and most enjoyed the sun, life and the view of Tullingsås and Ströms Vattudal. Now that it's over, we're back on track. 10.26 County Road 339 takes us west through forests and villages. The latest village we passed was Henningskälen. Not much is done on the so-called Guldkornsvägen road. 10.38 There is some drama in the nature! First off, we saw a tow truck with a car in the back, in addition, another car lying upside down in the ditch. It happens every now and then on the trips that we get to see traffic accidents. We hope it stops at car damage this time. 11.11 We have passed the nearby villages of Laxsjö and Laxviken and are beginning to approach Föllinge. Now the car is in a parking space. We sit in our camping chairs and enjoy the summer weather. You have to take this opportunity. It is promised rain and winds tonight and tomorrow. The car and we are by the lake Ockern. With us, of course, we have, like so many times before, insects. 11.36 A happy cyclist has passed us twice and greeted happily. We have also been down by the lake, photographed and read in our books. 11.51 After various excursions in the literary world for both of us we are now again car carried. In a curve we just met a car with two bikes on the roof.
At Strömsunds vandrarhem (Strömsund Hostel) in Tullingsås.
Beautiful morning view in Tullingsås.
We are preparing a stop in the sun just before we´ll reach Föllinge.
Christer is enjoying coffee and the Sunday sun.
Ockern, one of many lakes in Jämtland.
We have stopped at Glåmnäset.
12.01 A trip on road 344 took us past Föllinge and a game warning sign we have not seen before. It was like a combination between elk and deer warning. It was an animal that walked on all four legs but was smaller than an elk. It was not a reindeer warning.
12.14 Now we travel north on a new road, county road 340, Fiskevägen (Fishing Road). We have passed the lake Gysen. The sky is blue and the sun still dominates the weather. Again we listen to the comedy show Mammas nya kille on the radio. It's been a week since last time. That time we were in Tärendö in Norrbotten. We have travelled a few kilometres since then. 12.56 After having passed Skärvången with its famous cheese dairy we have reached Hotagsbygden. Häggsjövik-Glåmnäset is called resting place that offers wind protection and beautiful views of Häggsjön. The coordinates are 63.898447 N and 14.2479281 E. On the grill grate, the gas stove is ready, and on it a saucepan with water and six sausages. 13.27 Lunch is consumed but we unfortunately ran out of gas to our stove. The sausages were rolled into soft flatbread and enjoyed. We'll have to check and see if and where we arrange a new container with gas. As long as we travel in sparsely populated areas, it is important to be able to make our own lunch out in the open. 13.42 We interrupted our northern journey in Häggsjövik village and turned onto a dirt road. What is happening and what do we see now? Our plan and thought is to turn south again without having to go on the same road we came here on. 13.45 I quickly got an answer to what we will see. We just got to see an elk (moose). We see some wild animals every now and then on this car trip. What's next? 14.09 Old memories have passed. A sign pointed to the mountain Ansätten where I seem to remember that I went skiing and ate waffles in a cabin that was run by Knut Nordahl. We have also pass through the village Bakvattnet where I think I successfully ice fished and Åkersjön where parents, brothers and I have been under a holiday a long time ago. 14.27 We are again back on road 340. Christer continues to steer the right path. No wonder maybe, this is his home province where he grew up. 15.04 The journey south through Jämtland has taken us to Offerdal Parish. It is not every time a parish gets its own road sign but this is the case here. We have also seen the blue and white Offerdal flag on some houses. A stop has been made, in the main village Änge. It's time to take a closer look at the map. There are various ways to choose from so we have to keep track. 15.31 The hunt for a new coffee stop has only given us a view towards Åreskutan mountain. Some stop or for the sake of some coffee, however, wasn't found. We have passed villages such as Kaxås, Kougsta and Kluk in our search for a suitable rest area/parking place.
Häggsjön and Hotagsfjällen.
Lunch is being prepared.
Coffee stop under the power line.
We will eat pizza at Folkets Hus in Mörsil.
Rödöbron (Rödön bridge).
It is cold and windy along Storsjön (Great Lake).
15.44 Below a power line we found a large gravel area where we could finally park the car and have our well-deserved coffee break. What's that sound anyway? Aha a motorcycle flew by. We are completely close to Åre municipality. In fact, the sign marking the border between Krokom municipality and Åre municipality is only 100 meters away.
16.07 Decent plans for the remainder of today's trip are now available. There is also a draw between Piteå and Örebro in the highest women soccer league. This is told via the car radio. 16.20 In Mörsil there is the Restaurant Folkets Hus and we are now in that restaurant. Here it will be a pizza dinner. Outside we see signs of change in the weather. It is not unexpected but still gloomy and boring. Tomorrow we have a full day when we will not travel further. Too bad if it needs to be spent indoors. 16.51 It may be boring with pizza when there are other options. However, pizzas are safe cards when it comes to get rid of hunger. Except for the two of us, most people are picking up their food here. Why is it so much better to eat a semi cold pizza at home than to sit in a restaurant environment and eat it? 17.05 After passing Mattmar Christer now drives on the fifth Europe road this summer. This time it is E14 that gets the honour to help us move forward. 17.41 We are now on a gravel pad next to the water and opposite a yellow sign with red frame and black text where it says Vikeränget 1. Here we have coffee. We are near lake Storsjön and have just passed the village Vejmon. 18.09 Now I sit on a bench near Rödöbron, the bridge that connects Rödön (which is not an island) with Frösön (which is an island). We look towards the bridge and Storsjön, Sweden's fifth largest lake. Unfortunately, bad weather has reached us seriously now. It drizzles and there are cold winds. The waves of Storsjön attack the shore with an ever-increasing frenzy. The place we are at now is one of the places selected for reconnaissance after Storsjöodjuret (Great Lake Monster). This mysterious creature has actually been sighted in modern times right here when some witnesses seen something break the ice here at the bridge. 18.22 I sit on a legless chair nailed to a stump on top of a hill, Tibrandshögen. Here the medieval castle of Tibrandsholm is supposed to have been located. It sure is windy up here. It was probably built in the 1300s. The mound is named after the according to the folk legend cruel and greedy Danish castle bailiff Tibrand, who people of Jämtland finally killed a Christmas Day morning at Ås church. The castle was demolished around 1402 according to a preserved letter from the union Queen Margaret. Tibrand probably belonged to a branch of the Vitalie Brothers, which Margareta fought. The mound is reached by a footpath from the fort to the Rödö Bridge.
Christer is enjoying the views from Tibrandshögen.
Tibrandshögen.
A nice place to sit on a less windy day.
Frösö church.
Dog company in Överbyn.
18.37 We have travelled from Rödön and across the bridge to Frösön. Now we are guided towards Frösö church by Ruth, the voice in Google Maps.
18.50 After experiencing Frösö Church in bad windy weather, we now begin the last stage of the day. 19.27 We left Frösön behind us. There is not much to see and experience there in this weather. However, the view towards the mountains is fantastic when the weather is clear on a sunny day. Via the 1.5 kilometres long and in 1998 opened Vallsund Bridge we have driven to Överbyn village. Now we're at the house of our old friend and travel colleague Roberth. He lives here with his wife Katrin and the children Alva and Martin. In addition, this house is home to two charming dog girls. We handed over what we bought in Vilhelmina to Roberth and his wife. They got a bottle of liqueur, Amarula Cream. 21.01 The three friends take it easy, watch some TV and do not do much. The planning of tomorrow doesn't make much sense. The weather forecast speaks only of cold and rain. It feels like a repeat of what we experienced in Kiruna. 23.27 After watching the movie Borg from 2017 about the tennis players Björn Borg and John McEnroe we have eaten bread and tried some rum, Diplomatico and Plantation. Now we crawl into our temporary beds here in the house. In half an hour a new week will begin.
Monday 6th of July
08.55 A Monday morning might be perfectly okay when it's holiday times. During the morning I was visited in my bed. One of the household dogs wanted to get acquainted with me, possibly mostly say Good Morning. Or did it simply want me out of bed to have it for itself?
09.48 It's pretty good here, at least indoors. Out there, the sky is gray and the air is wet with rain. 10.35 It is a quiet morning here in Överbyn. However, there are some plans for the rest of the day. However, our hope to visit Storsjöbadet spa area turned out to be just a hope. They're closed on Mondays. When we visited Östersund in February in connection but the World Cup in cross-country skiing we had to cancel the same visit due to lack of time. Wondering when the next opportunity pops up? 11.22 Now we are in a car again. It's a new car and a new driver. Roberth's behind the wheel, Christer and I are in the backseat. With Roberth upfront is his daughter Alva, 17 years old. 11.51 Roberth dropped off Alva at Storsjöbadet where she will work this summer. Now we go around Östersund on a small sightseeing tour. Roberth shows us various changes in the city plan. New houses and new residential areas have appeared here and there. 12.22 The car was parked on the top floor plane of a parking garage. The driver and his passengers crossed the main square and went to Espresso House for coffee. It has been a number of days since we last visited that chain. Last time was in Boden if we remember correctly.
Rain on Stortorget (Great Square) in Östersund.
Roberth thinks 8 degrees is shorts weather.
A coffee break at Espresso House.
Peter is sitting on the coffee throne.
13.09 We should, despite the grey weather, see more than the inside of Espresso House here in Östersund. If the weather had been better, we'd probably have documented the city better. Christer was born here and I have visited the city many times. Therefore it will not be so much tourism for us in this city but some things should be documented in the travel journal after all.
13.34 After seeing and photographing the Town Hall and Old Church we are now on our way out of the parking garage. We have some business to do before we can return again to the village and the countryside. Östersund is Jämtland's only city and home to 52,616 people. The city was founded in 1786 by King Gustav III and is named because it is located on the eastern strait of Storsjön between Frösön island and the mainland. 14.04 At Jula store in Lillänge shopping area we have invested in two new gas cartridges. Now we can continue to cook our own meals along the travel route when the need arises. The cartridge that ran out during lunch yesterday had probably been around for a few years. It was brought from Christer's summer cottage and had a price tag from the time before the introduction of the barcodes. 14.52 Before the return we made some purchases at ICA Kvantum near Jula. Now we're back in the village again. The dogs eagerly awaited us in the window. 16.41 Not much happens now. That happens from time to time. This has been a very quiet day. We blame the weather. 17.49 During the day we have enjoyed ourselves by looking through a long series of episodes of Taxi Surr with the comedian Patrik Larsson. He portrays different types of taxi drivers. The series can be found on YouTube. 18.42 Now something is starting to happen. What can you wonder? Well, it's time for dinner, right now pasta is cooked, strips are being deep fried, and sausages and halloumi are fried. I am hardly active in this project. Well, except to document everything possibly.
The town hall in Östersund.
The Old Church in Östersund has been used since 1839.
Roberth´s house in Överbyn.
Some ladies were waiting for us.
20.01 A tasty dinner has ended. It was fine with sausage today too. Attempts have been made to establish contact between my mobile phone and Christer's tablet. The idea is that we should use the tablet instead of the phone for navigation in the car. We'll see what happens to it. At least now we're going to sit back on the couch and watch the Western movie True Grit.
22.01 It was a really good movie and it is a continued quiet evening here in the house and in the village. What else can you do other than cuddle indoors when summer brings out its worst weather? 22.47 It is excellent to take it easy and lay low sometimes. It's also always nice to hang out with Roberth. It remains many kilometres and many days for Christer and I before this summer's journey is over. Despite the disappointment with the weather, it has been a nice stop here in Överbyn and we have rested and are ready to go towards new adventures tomorrow.
You can see 111 photos from July 4 in this photoalbum.
You can see 57 photos from July 5 in this photoalbum.
You can see 15 photos from July 6 in this photoalbum.