Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt
Provinces: Blekinge, Småland, Öland
Municipalities: Karlshamn, Ronneby, Karlskrona, Torsås, Kalmar, Mörbylånga
Friday 31st of July
08.32 We've woken up here in our beds in cabin 44 at Kolleviks Camping (https://mycamping.se) outside Karlshamn in Blekinge. 123 633 08 07 is the Swish number we will send money to so that we can check in at the upcoming accommodation after 18.00. Regarding the current location, to be able to enter the toilet-and shower just blip a card. Just blip again to start the shower. Each blip costs 5 crowns. To get out, you have to press a button by the door.
09.45 After my last toilet visit, a man had trouble getting out of another toilet. With joint powers, he from the inside and me from the outside, we managed to get the door open. Now all that remains is to pack our belongings and to leave the cottage in a good condition. Hopefully we have not had time to bring in too much dirt.
10.27 I have been to the campsite reception and paid for our stay here and now it's time to revise what I have previously written. It was just the showering that cost money and they thought that we didn't have to pay. We thank for that. Let's go towards Karlshamn. We have not actually seen anything of the city so far.
10.38 We have found a parking space at Borgmästargatan. From here it is convenient distance to city centre and the sea.
10.43 The sun glitters, the gravel crackles and behind me is the emigration monument here in Karlshamn. Is it emigrants generally one thinks about or is it solely dedicated to ther author Vilhelm Moberg's Kristina and Karl-Oskar? The monument from 1959 consists of a woman and a man looking, he out to the sea, she looking back. These are supposed to be Kristina and Karl-Oskar from the books. A similar statue stands on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean in the city of Lindstrom, Minnesota. Karlshamn was one of the places that served as the exit port for the Swedish emigrants to North America.
10.57 After having immortalized the monument, we will now take a look at Karlshamn Center. Karlshamn has 20 388 inhabitants and my main connection and association to Karlshamn is the advertising for Carlshamn dairy, Gott, Gotti, Gott, Gott!. But surely the city has more to give than that?
13.19 In the park a bit beyond where Christer parked there was collective Friday prayer out in the open green for some muslims. It is always interesting with multicultural elements. We are most happy that we got hold of a parking place. We put the car here because we still thought to see more of Brunnsparken later before we leave the city. First we´ll take a long walk into the centre and back. With Ronnebyån behind us and Alfa Laval's factory a short distance away, we first take a bench break.
14.39 Below a railing at Ronnebyån we have found a memorial stone of the aforementioned Ronneby carnage in 1564. There are many things in Swedish history that are spoken about quietly. Think so many times Stockholm's carnage mentioned compared to this. The background to the carnage was that the Swedish soldiers who were among the last in the campaign on their way to Blekinge were captured by people in Blekinge and then hung in the trees to horror and disgust. Swedish troops arrived to Ronneby on the 3rd of September and twice gave the inhabitants of Ronneby the opportunity to surrender. They however refused. Most likely, the city was waiting for the rescue of Danish troops that were some kilometres away to the west; the people of Ronneby also overestimated their own strength. When the Swedish troops attacked on the 4th of September, they then began plundering the city and massacring its inhabitants according to the king's orders.
17.39 In Listerby with a road to Kuggeboda a roundabout suddenly appeared. Why this crossing solution on large E22? Not so effective.
19.40 None other than Erik Dahlbergh was responsible for the city's planning in 1683. That man returns every now and then during this journey. We have also seen him in stone version at Vallgatan. He managed well with the city because it was Sweden's third largest city for a fairly long period.
Saturday 1st of August
A nice spot for a first stop in Karlshamn.
Sea views at Näsviken, Karlshamn.
Swans close to Hamngatan.
The emigration monument in Karlshamn.
Drottningggatan, Karlshamn.
Karlshamn town hall.
Sjölands Konditori, Karlshamn.
Ronnebyån.
Wonderful atmosphere along Ronnebyån.
Public art in front of the old town hall in Ronneby.
Karlskronagatan, Ronneby.
Outdoor chess in Ronneby.
Munktrappan between Ronneby torg and the church.
Heliga Kors kyrka (Holy Cross Church) in Ronneby.
It looks like this inside the church.
Christer is walking along Kyrkogatan.
Christer is awaiting the lunch at Via Venetto.
The courthouse in Ronneby.
Villa Haga, one of many beautiful buildings along Ronnebyån.
Ronneby Brunnspark has won an award for being the most beautiful park in Sweden.
Bright green colours in Brunnsparken.
Mrs Mallard and her children.
Beautiful house in Ronneby Brunnspark.
A ferry from Stena Line in Karlskrona.
Peter at Drottninggatan Hostel.
We are walking on this day´s second Ronnebygatan.
The old man Rosenbom wants a donation.
Amiralitetskyrkan (Admiralty Church), Karlskrona.
Erik Dahlbergh planned this city (streets and fortifications).
Bastion Aurora, Karlskrona.
Admiralty clock tower in Karlskrona.
A beautiful sunset in Karlskrona.
Trefaldighetskyrkan (Trinity Church), Karlskrona.
Stortorget with Fredrikskyrkan (Fredrik church).
King Karl XI is watching at Stortorget.
Peter is visiting PM India Garden.
09.04 It is Saturday morning and the last travel month for us this summer has begun. Our towels are in desperate need of some sort of treatment. One option is fire.
10.19 We are soon done with another room and accommodation. Soon we will leave our belongings in the green car. Then we'll see more of Karlskrona and treat ourselves to some coffee before we travel on. 10.45 Most of our stuff is now in the car. Now we will make one last visit in the centre and then say goodbye to Karlskrona. There are some things we have not yet done here. 11.07 We are on our way back up to Stortorget where we finished last night's walk. Now we rest the bodies with a classic bench break in Hoglands Park, a park that has existed here since the 1820s. Today it's sunshine all in. It's welcome and nice. 11.31 I look at some statues here in the park. One is a man, dressed as an ancient Roman with togas, pieces of cloth. He stands straight on a high pillar. On another pillar sits a naked young woman. She looks at the man. Did he steal her piece of cloth? 11.37 A bit away from us where we sit there is a small arena for horse jumping. There are no real horses here. Instead, it is stick horses. One cannot avoid thinking that it is rather ridiculous to run around carrying a stick with a horse's head. 11.42 Now there are hard struggles on several levels. Should we go to get coffee or should we see how it goes for a little girl who with the help of her father tries to jump with a long skipping rope? It's going that well for the girl. Speaking of going, they just moved on. Maybe we should do the same?
Outside Drottningggatans Vandrarhem (Drottninggatan Hostel).
Hoglands Park, Karlskrona.
A last visit in central Karlskrona.
King Fredrik I gave his name to this beautiful church.
Slow traffic in eastern Blekinge.
Information about the peace treaty in Brömsebro.
12.10 Calm music from the speakers, thumping sounds from behind the counter and a rumbling sound comes from the coffee machine. It's a normal day at a regular Espresso House. I have to seriously figure out how many Espresso House locations we've been to this summer. One can wonder if we are fixated to drink coffee right there or if Swedish cities often lack other good options.
13.03 To open the car doors was almost like opening a door to a sauna. Warm air puffed out. The doors will be open for a while before we will leave Karlskrona and then Blekinge. 13.07 Two hearty ladies who arrived by car when we got to the parking lot have unloaded their bikes. Just as they were going to cycle away, one of them thought it would be a good idea to close the driver's door and also to lock the car. 13.18 Our journey out of Karlskrona has been temporarily stopped. 35,45 litres of petrol for 486 kronor, US$55,32 has been filled at Ingo. Now the Golf can take us further north. 13.58 It has become time to enter a new county, Kalmar County. It also means that we come to Småland province. Soon we´ll make a new short stop. 14.15 Now it's time for some history again. We have swung of E22 at rest area Bröms and stopped at the memorial stone for peace at Brömsebro which took place in 1645. It was at that peace that Denmark became smaller and Sweden larger. The Danes had to refrain from Jämtland, Härjedalen, Blekinge, Gotland and Ösel (now in Estonia) to Sweden. In addition, we got to borrow Halland for 30 years. 14.48 We're back on E22. According to Google Maps in my mobile, we should in about 6.1 kilometres turn left towards Djursvik and then follow Kyrkvägen. After a little while on that we will head out on E22 again. Is this really true? 14.56 The confused suggestion from Google Maps was rejected by us. Soon a proposal to turn off towards Söderåkra came. We ignored that as well. Sure, Ruth has come up with wise suggestions but this doesn't feel like one of those. 15.32 Although we have spent plenty of time both in Karlskrona and at Brömsebro, we are in reasonably good time arrived in Kalmar. The room we will stay in is 101 and we stay in the hostel part of Hotell Svanen (https://hotellsvanen.se). What then differs from the hotel part? Well, its shared shower and we have to make the bed ourselves. However, we do not do it with our own bedding.
The peace stone in Bröms.
The border between Småland and Blekinge usaed to be the Swedish-Danish border.
A good view of the Öland bridge close to our hotel.
Peter is writing down what happened in Kalmar after arrival.
Kalmar Stadspark (Kalmar City Park).
Kalmar castle.
16.40 The sun shines, Kalmar Strait glitter and a nearly fifty-year bridge stretches out across the Strait. It is the Öland Bridge that is seen and referred to. We have walked a short distance through a residential area to get to this view. After this, we must try to find some kind of food. Hunger is soon upon us.
17.00 Our brisk steps have been paused. This is done partly to rest and partly to take out the right direction in this city. We are in Kalmar, a city with 41 110 inhabitants in eastern Småland. Kalmar is one of Sweden's oldest cities. In the Middle Ages, the city was a border stronghold against Denmark, Sweden's key, a significant port, Trade Center and one of the kingdom's major cities. In the 13th century, the city was a member of the powerful international trade union of the Hanseatic League. 17.10 A stop has been made at the sports arena Fredriksskans. Here the gate is open. Maybe we should go in? No, I'd rather have food. Fredriksskans was between 1919-2010 home ground for the football team Kalmar FF. They now play on the newly built Guldfågeln Arena in the outskirts of the city. The stadium here is both a football arena (for some smaller teams) and athletics arena. Seats are available for 9,000 spectators. 17.23 Now it will actually be great with pizza again. After all, it may be the hearty hunger that underlies that position. We're at Pizza Palace (http://www.pizzapalatset.se). Apparently, their pizzas have been selected to be the best in Sweden in 2009. One of the pizzas, Ostrich, has the ingredients fillet of ostrich, mango, chilli sauce, kiwi sauce with raspberry vinegar and mozzarella. Fun for those who eat it but I'll probably order something else. By the way, is the kiwi sauce based on the bird or fruit? 18.02 Strengthened by the delicious pizzas we now catch some sun on a bench along Trädgårdsgatan. Some distance away is a tower, the old water tower, now containing apartments. 18.30 Before we arrived at the city park we passed a pedestrian crossing. At red light one melody was played, and at green another. Here in the park I now sit on a huge stump of a Scots elm. How old was it when it fell? 18.54 The adventure in Kalmar continues. Now we are in the courtyard of Kalmar Castle. Now Christer received a text message. The upcoming accommodation in Överum outside Västervik wants us to Swish our payment to 123 56 553 78. Kalmar castle was until 1658 a border castle and a fortification. After Blekinge, Halland and Skåne became Swedish; Kalmar Castle was demoted to prison and royal distillery. The castle has played a crucial role in the history of Sweden since the castle was erected at the end of the 1100s. During the time of Knut Eriksson, a kastal was built, a round fortification tower. Magnus Ladulås in the 1280s built a defence castle around the kastal, which then became the castle's core tower. Kalmar castle, together with the royal palace in Stockholm, Vyborg Castle and Älvsborg fortress was considered one of Sweden's four most important strongholds, which held up the country (Source: Wikipedia).
The renaissance castle in Kalmar with some roses in front.
Inside the walls at Kalmar castle.
Christer has visited Kalmar castle.
The King Gustav Vasa monument in Stadsparken.
Slottsholmen, Kalmar.
Christer with Kalmar castle in the background.
19.14 We are on our way back from the castle and are right now walking through the beautiful city park. We admire beautiful trees and various statues and monuments. Now we have stopped at the black King Gustav Vasa monument. The monument was erected in memory of Gustav Vasa's landing on Stensö in 1520. It was originally on Cape Stensö, but was replaced by a memorial stone and then moved here to Stadsparken.
19.32 On a flowery small hill lies a small gazebo. We're heading for the city square. 19.42 We just passed the railway station and have been to the acceding a kiosk to buy ice cream. 19.58 People are cheering on an outdoor terrace here at Larmtorget. Right now, the FA-cup final is in progress in England, hence the cheering. Arsenal just took the lead with 2-1 against Chelsea. Just now we saw a monument in memory of the Kalmar Union. The Kalmar Union was a union between the kingdoms of Denmark, Norway and Sweden that was formed in 1397 and lasted until the 6th of June, 1523. After Sweden left the Union, Denmark and Norway remained in union until 1814. The union was founded at a meeting right here in Kalmar in 1397, where the nobility from the three countries gathered to crown Erik of Pomerania as king of the three countries (with Queen Margareta as the inaugural co regent). 20.10 It is soon time to end the evening's tour through Kalmar. I'm at the finish of Iron Man Kalmar on Stortorget. There is also the City Hotel Calmar Stadshotell and the former Cathedral. Kalmar diocese was a diocese of the Swedish Church between the years 1603 and 1915, when it went up in Växjö diocese. The reason why the Kalmar diocese was withdrawn was demands from the government, when it wanted to reduce costs, because it was considered necessary to form Luleå diocese. 20.42 This evening it was Hemköp on Fiskaregatan that helped us with breakfast and travel food. Now we will bring with us the purchased and wander home towards Svanen. 22.05 The only thing we have succeeded in since returning home is to find paper cups, fix coffee and learned that there is a guest kitchen here at the hotel. 23.17 Now there are solid plans for tomorrow. We will wake up, shower, eat a guest kitchen breakfast, spend more time in Kalmar and then travel to Öland in the afternoon. What we are doing there remains to be clarified. Tomorrow we think further.
The union monument is here to remember the Kalmar union in medieval times.
Larmtorget in Kalmar.
Peter is walking on Stortorget.
The front of Kalmar cathedral which isn´t a cathedral anymore.
Sunday 2nd of August
08.17 It is morning at the hotel Svanen and the sun shines over Kalmar this Sunday. How long will it shine undisturbed? If everything goes as it should, a lot more new has happened before it's time to sleep again.
09.51 Now days, rooms and hotels begin to get mixed up with each other. What happened where and when? It is important to start the timer if you want to use the kettle in the guest kitchen. The guest kitchen is also the place for our own purchased breakfast. The kitchen is large and since this is a hotel, not all guests are here and use it. 10.46 The wind is blowing in Kalmar today. Activity on the Öland Bridge is low. We're at the Kattrumpan beach area. Kattrumpan, the cat's butt is the easternmost part of Kvarnholmen where Kalmar city centre is located. Reportedly, this part of the city looked like a cat's butt on an older city map. A short distance away is the remains of the fortification, the bastion of Carolus Philippus. 11.17 We have been past the intended coffee break alternative maybe lunch place, Café Ångkvarnen. It is located inside a museum. It feels a little complicated. Now we are instead at something ruin similar near First Hotel Witt. 11.50 Christer and I have got up on and walked along the wall that goes along the southern part of the city centre. Here and there in the city we have seen signs that urge not to throw cigarette butts. They are illustrated with animals with cigarette butts in their mouths or beaks. 12.02 We found some streets we did not walk on yesterday and now feel quite clear with Kalmar city center. It is now time for coffee. 12.12 The number of my receipt is 23 944. We're at Wayne's Coffee in the Baron mall. There are reasons why we're right here. Our coffee thirst is one reason and a crowded Espresso House on Storgatan is another reason. The other, minor essential reasons I keep to myself.
Breakfast in the guest kitchen at Hotel Svanen.
Kattrumpan beach in Kalmar.
Christer is sitting down on Kalmar city wall.
Walking on the wall into central Kalmar.
A good advice.
Peter is visiting Wayne's Coffee in Baronen mall.
13.12 Now we are temporarily back in the room of the hotel Svanen (The Swan). It's time to get ready for a trip across the ocean. Right now we are packing with us the necessary, above all an outdoor lunch to be eaten later.
13.47 Christer has just driven over the 6072 meter long Öland Bridge. The bridge was inaugurated in 1972 and was Europe's longest bridge until 1998. There is at the moment a long queue in the oncoming lane. A police control at the bridge bracket on Öland stops the traffic. Has something happened? 13.54 The line of cars in oncoming file grows. We just passed Torslunda church on our trip south here on Öland. Öland is Sweden's second largest island and Sweden's smallest province. On the island there is a population of 26 088 inhabitants but in summer there are significantly more here. 14.06 Road 138 has been left and we are now driving on Stenåsavägen out over the limestone plain Stora Alvaret. 14.11 A gentle wind blows across Stora Alvaret. We have stayed on the parking spot at the nature reserve Gynge-Mysinge alvar. It is flatter than flat with spreading shrubbery. There is also a wall and a wooden staircase over the wall. Christer believes he stayed right here during a vacation trip with his family in 1985. 14.42 To the collection of places where I have been and written a travel journal, I can now add, on an island stone, surrounded by bushes on the Alvaret. The bushes have yellow flowers and are called golden hardback, Dasiphora fruticosa. 14.56 There has been an explanation for the police operation we saw at the bridge. During the night there was a burglary/robbery in a shop in northern Öland. The police have set up a roadblock and check all vehicles leaving Öland, hence the line of cars. AIK football team who stayed overnight on Öland before the match against Kalmar FF is stuck in the queue. This is, according to one online page, the mother of all queues, the worst in the history of the Öland Bridge. This very day we are of course sitting on the Öland side of the queue.
Typical Öland windmills along the road.
We have stopped at the nature reserve Gynge-Mysinge alvar.
Ölandstok, a typical bush on this island.
Christer on Öland.
Peter is writing down what you are reading right now.
Stora Alvaret (Big Alvar) covers 20% of the island Öland.
15.19 Just as we decided to return to the table at the rest area where the car stands for a small lunch, a car appeared. Those who came with the car are now sitting at the table. I guess we've to wait until it becomes free, but there is no panic.
15.51 The table became available for a short time. Right now, two fellows are sitting at it. Such luck that it's the two of us. It's time for a late lunch. 16.34 Now we will continue our Öland excursion. When can we leave the island? A Dutchman in a black van just overtook us. 16.48 On the way into Triberga village we saw a small collection of water. Once in the village we met a man with hopefully his wheelbarrow. It would be a shame if he stole it from someone. We drive along the east side of southern Öland. The waters of the Baltic Sea are visible to the left of us. 17.32 We have made a new stop just near Öland's southern cape. A short distance away rises the lighthouse Långe Jan. A bit closer, some sheep go and graze. Birds sound and tourists drift around. It was a bit complicated to drive a car here because there were plenty of sheep grazing all along the road. In addition to the lighthouse, there is Ottenby bird observatory, a Mecca for all bird watchers. 17.59 With its 41.6 meters, Långe Jan (Tall Jan) is Sweden's tallest lighthouse. If you want to get up to the top, it costs almost as much in crowns as the lighthouse measures in meters. The ticket costs 40 SEK but then it is a round trip ticket. Unfortunately, the lighthouse will close for the day so we'll see it from below. Långe Jan was first lit on the 1st of November 1, 1785. 18.04 It is time for the latest news about the police barrier at Öland Bridge. It takes five hours to reach the bridge from Borgholm / Köpingsvik. The distance is around 27 kilometres should this really be necessary? After all, it seems unlikely that some robbers calmly sit in a car on the way to a police control. 18.25 The time has come to along the western coast of Öland bring us to the north. How far do we get? A moment ago, we thought the Swedish king was sitting in one of the cars leaving. 8 minutes ago, the Borgholm bus was two hours delayed. It doesn't seem promising. 18.47 We just went through Karl X Gustav's wall. It was primarily intended to contain the fallow deer so that there would be plenty of animals at the Royal Hunt. It was built in 1653 on behalf of Karl X Gustav, who at the time was heir to the throne. The following year he succeeded Queen Kristina on the Swedish throne. The wall lies north of Ottenby royal estate and extends east-west across Öland. It is five kilometres long and only broken by the two country roads on both sides of the island.
Alvar has his own road sign...or?
Sheep along the road on southern Öland.
Öland´s southern cape. Here you´ll find a lighthouse and lots of birds.
Ottenby, a paradise for bird watchers.
Långe Jan (Tall Jan).
This lighthouse was built when Gustav III was king of Sweden.
18.57 In anticipation that the queues at the bridge will thin out and in order for us to bet energy we will now have dinner at Kvarnkrogen (Restaurant Kvarnen) Grönhögen (https://kvarnengronhogen.se). It is housed in/under a mill. We are in the small village Grönhögen a bit north of Öland's southern cape.
19.49 We got a tasty but expensive pizzas and mine was a bit dry along the edge. After shopping at small ICA Nära grocery store here in Grönhögen, we will now try our luck to move on. 20.12 As usual, Google Maps Ruth took us out on various small roads near Mörbylånga. It was probably the shortest route but probably no route we would have chosen if we looked at a map ourselves. 20.43 We are now surrounded by Vickleby hardwood/broadleaf forest. It is time for a hopefully final Öland adventure. Ouch, there are biting insects here. A car with registration, CBK 923 is parked here with the trunk open. In addition, a backpack stands outside the car. There is no sign of human activity though. 20.58 We've walked through the forest and arrived on a small road. This has been a special experience, a clear contrast to the barren Alvaret. Just imagine how much can be found on tiny Öland. Unfortunately, it has become far too dark for even more experiences. Now it is the time to get back to the car. Is the other vehicle still there? 21.31 The car is still there. We've heard the car doors close and we've heard the engine start and stop. Almost there we saw it with the lights on. It was extinguished and someone almost hid in the car. Is it the ones/the one that the police set up a barrier for? Let's go, will we cross the bridge? 21.40 Now we have parked in Talludden's parking lot in Färjestaden. A visual inspection of the traffic situation over the bridge shall be carried out. From here, we should be able to see if the traffic flows normally up on the bridge. 21.45 A few cars can be seen driving across the bridge towards Kalmar. Internet has given us information that differs. Maybe we will spend the night in the car here on Öland?
Our dinner restaurant in the village Grönhögen.
Pizza inside a windmill? Yes, why not?
Time for an evening walk in the forest.
Interesting tree in Vickleby ädellövskog.
It is getting dark in the birdhouse and in the forest.
22.15 Why is there no public information on the internet about the situation on the bridge? Shouldn't the Swedish Transport Administration, the police or some other authority tell? We have received all the information from a private Facebook group about the Öland Bridge. Soon we will try to drive to queue if necessary.
22.25 We are back at the parking lot. It's time to see if we can get across. It's time to start and drive out into the dark. 22.33 We take a shortcut through the outskirts of the ferry town. It is exciting with small narrow unknown roads in the late summer darkness. If we drive right, we will arrive on route 136 in Torslunda. 22.45 It's clear, full speed ahead out on the bridge. Nothing short of Öland but it will be nice, lovely to come back to the mainland again. 23.10 No queues as far as the eye can see, traffic just as usual on the Öland Bridge. We are finally at home in our room at Hotel Svanen. Lecce has been relegated from Serie A in Italy and on our TV someone plays a classic Swedish summer hymn in a swinging piano version. 23.48 The foundation for tomorrow is laid and cast. It will then be time to see more of Småland. Among other things, Döderhultsvik should be visited. Now I can't write much more. It is soon a new day and a new chapter in this travel journal.
You can see 111 photos from July 31 in this photoalbum.
You can see 81 photos from August 1 in this photoalbum.
You can see 80 photos from August 2 in this photoalbum.