Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt
Provinces: Västmanland, Värmland, Dalsland
Municipalities: Lindesberg, Ljusnarsberg, Hällefors, Filipstad, Storfors, Karlskoga, Degerfors, Kristinehamn, Karlstad, Kil, Arvika, Grums, Säffle, Åmål, Mellerud
Monday 13th of July
07.57 Good morning! We're at Persson's Magasin (http://www.perssonsmagasin.se) in Western Löa, a village between Kopparberg and Lindesberg. The night in Vita Stugan (White Cottage) has treated us well and now we are going to have breakfast in the large house where our host couple lives.
09.16 We were offered a hearty and flavourful breakfast. It was served on a terrace. Our hostess Eva provided the breakfast service. We also took the opportunity to converse with our host Carl-Eric. He told some anecdotes from his trip among relatives in Kansas, USA. For example, he thought there were few dark-skinned people there. Not at all, said he whom our host visited, we have one. There was other environmental attitudes there in the United States. A worn out battery was thrown into the waste disposal unit. There was no danger because the grinder had sharp knives. Towards the end of our breakfast, other guests, a family from Karlstad, joined us. We just paid our stay with Swish. The new breakfast guests are now allowed to eat in peace and quiet. For us, it's time to say done and paid. It's time to head west.
09.43 A smooth left turn took us 183 roads ahead. From road 50 we switched to road 233. Now we are in Kopparberg with a foreign truck chasing behind us.
09.56 We switched to road 63 further on in Kopparberg. It is, considering it is a national road, very narrow and curvy. The truck's still behind us.
10.17 The truck, a Danish one, has now passed us. We ourselves stand still in a parking place at the lake Ösjön. The waves splash towards the shore. In the forest around the lake, trees stretch towards the clouds.
11.17 After a nice break, the journey continues. We have a busy schedule today, one of the most intense days of the trip. We don't have time to get stuck too long in any place. We just left Hällefors behind us. We are also on our way out of Hällefors municipality, out of Västmanland and Örebro County.
11.24 We are in the province of Värmland and in the municipality of Filipstad. We have passed some counties, provinces and municipalities this year.
11.42 Now we have suddenly but not surprising arrived in Filipstad, a city in eastern Värmland with 6 329 inhabitants. We are more specifically in the parking lot at COOP supermarket and Nordström's shoe store. The city is named after Prince Karl Filip who was the son of King Karl IX and brother of King Gustav II Adolf. Karl Filip is known, above all, for some time being one of the candidates to become tsar of Russia. A Russian envoy was sent 1611 to Stockholm with this offer to the Swedish King. The city of Novgorod, which was under Swedish patronage, had launched Karl Filip as its candidate. The Tsar's election took place under tumultuous forms in Moscow around the turn of 1612-1613. When Karl Filip in the summer of 1613 came over to the castle of Vyborg, the election was over and he had to return home. It was not Karl Filip but an ultimately advanced candidate, Michael Romanov, who became the tsar. The Romanov dynasty was to remain on the Russian throne until 1917. (Source: Wikipedia)
15.26 It was for sure free. Free it is also up on Rävåskullen hill. Here I sit on, I think it's called cannon lavett, of one of the so-called Folkkanonerna. Once upon a time they were on HM armoured ship Sweden. The cannon was placed at Rävåskullen for the 400th anniversary in Karlskoga in 1986. It was manufactured by Bofors industries in 1912 and belonged to the armoured boat ”Sweden” which the government ordered to build after the large collection before the first World War. In Karlskoga they collected 87000 SEK for the cannon. In the early 1960s, the cannon was donated to Karlskoga municipality by the Navy. From here Rävåskullen we also have a nice view of Karlskoga Center. The name Karlskoga comes from the fact that King Karl IX saw it as his ducal forests, Karl's forests. Karlskoga is both the province of Värmland and Örebro County's second largest urban area. It has 27,518 inhabitants.
18.14 The car is now parked at Stora COOP in Kristinehamn. We sit on a bench at the entrance. There is also an older pedal moped. The question is whether there are any younger models. By the way, the town is named after Queen Kristina. It has a population of 18,730.
Tuesday 14th of July
A beautiful view from Perssons Magasin.
We are driving through Kopparberg.
Near Kyrkviken (Church Bay) in Filipstad you can see this memory stone about the famous brothers Nils and John Ericson.
Filipstad church.
The ducks bite in Filipstad.
Christer and the poet Nils Ferlin.
Skillerälven, Filipstad.
Peter together with singer Gunde Johansson.
The people´s cannon on Rävåsen hill in Karlskoga.
We are looking down on Karlskoga.
Peter on Alfred Nobel Square.
The coffee is waiting to be consumed. We are at Espresso House, Karlskoga.
Ekmansdalen, Karlskoga.
This day´s third visited town in Värmland will be Kristinehamn.
Central Kristinehamns near the square and hotel.
Kristinehamns church.
Peter is taking notes outside the church in Kristinehamn.
The hotel Sockerslottet is using an old church building.
The Picasso sculpture outside Kristinehamn.
This day´s football games are summarized at Best Western Hotel Gustaf Fröding.
08.18 Crows can be heard and the sky is gray. It will unfortunately be a rainy day today, somewhat ironic when we are in a municipality with the sun as symbol. This stuff about hotels is, next to coffee, one of the best things in life. We have slept well here at Best Western Hotel Gustaf Fröding in Kroppkärr, Karlstad.
09.02 Yesterday I got no scratch card from Circle K. Just when I threw away a few things that I had in a pocket a scraped lottery ticket appeared. How did it get there and who scratched it? What a mystery. 09.44 One thing is certain; the range at breakfast could have been wider and more varied. Is it the Corona restrictions that limit everything, is it supposed to be finished fast? In any case, we must be satisfied that, after all, it was a breakfast buffet. 10.52 It's raining in Karlstad today. Now we have parked our vehicle at Sundsta Idrottshus. It is Karlstad municipality's largest sports facility. There are both small and large premises, for everything from handball to shooting or wrestling. In connection with Sundsta Idrottshus is also Sundstabadet. Karlstad, by the way, is a place that has been inhabited for a long time. The town was originally named Tingvalla but in 1584 it was granted city status by Karl IX, who also gave the city its current name. Karlstad is the largest city in Värmland and Sweden's 20th largest urban area with 65,273 inhabitants. 11.37 We have, in the rain and wind, walked towards the centre via a bridge over Klarälven. After a little stroll we saw a people filled Espresso House. However, we continued to another one in the same chain. Here at Drottninggatan 22 there are not as many guests. Now we will get, dry, warm and mainly have coffee. 12.20 Now we have seen three celebrities in statue form. The founder of the city, Karl IX, the author Selma Lagerlöf and Eva Lisa Holtz, Eva Lisa Holtz was born on January 1, 1739 in Karlstad. During the 1700s, she ran an inn on plot 156 in the city. Her famous cheerful mood gave her the nickname "Sola in Karlstad (The sun in Karlstad)" and the inn was also called "Solas". The word sola is a feminine definite form of the word sol and thus means "sun". Holtz died on the 24th of September, 1818.
We have walked along Östra Torggatan and reached the center of Karlstad.
Karlstad´s founder, the king Karl (Charles) IX.
"Sola i Karlstad (The sun in Karlstad)" had a real name too, Eva Lisa Holtz.
The author Selma Lagerlöf becomes greener for each day.
The peace monument about the peaceful end of the union Norway-Sweden in 1905.
Karlstad Cathedral.
12.40 It is +14°C and rain. Then we can't be outside. Karlstad joins Kiruna and Östersund in the group of cities that have not been given an honest chance to be experienced due to the weather during this trip. After visiting Stora Torget and photographing the Peace Monument erected to the 50th anniversary of the Union's dissolution with Norway in 1905, we have now sought shelter inside a mall.
13.36 The walk back the car took us past Karlstad Cathedral (the second Cathedral of the trip) and Östra bron, an old stone arch bridge. Now our Värmland adventure continues. 13.50 Karlstad and E18 are left behind. Now we and many others are traveling on route 61 towards Kil. 14.15 About 30 kilometres ahead of Arvika we have stopped in a parking lot to check if there are any petrol stations and a light snack in the future along our route. Now a Dutch truck from Groningen drew past us. The car shakes when the trucks pass on the road. 14.57 We have stopped the car to refill it with new fuel. We are at a Preem station in Långvak just outside Arvika. 15.14 Another stop and another parking. We've reached Arvika. We're at the new paved fairground. It is raining. 16.05 This is eating us up. It's been pouring since we got here and we're still in the car. No more rain please! We want to see Arvika. 16.25 From parking to park the step is short in spelling and even in reality. On a bench in a lush gait stands a lonely, white and abandoned coffee mug. Wild wine vines grow above us and on the side of us in this cozy leafy gait in the City Park. The annoying rain has fortunately calmed down. 16.40 It smells great from the pizzeria La Vita. We are at Arvika Travel Center, at the railway station. On the way here we have seen various statues and sculptures. There are plenty of such in the city environment here in Arvika. Now we will buy candy or ice cream in the kiosk located here. 17.13 We have seen some more of Arvika. The city is cozy but you are not able to see cities from their best side when the weather is not on top. After a stop at the fine Trinity Church (Trefaldighetskyrkan) it has become time to be car borne again. We're not spending the night in Arvika. We have to travel on.
Östra Bron (Eastern Bridge), Karlstad.
Beneath the leaves in Stadsparken (Town Park), Arvika.
The sculpture Elis i Tasere on Torggatan, Arvika.
Arvika railway station.
The sculpture Fågelmannen (Birdman) on Arvika Torg (Arvika Square).
Trefaldighetskyrkan (Trinity Church), Arvika.
Grums Hotell.
Gruvön Paper Mill, Grums.
The most central area in Grums.
Wednesday 15th of July
08.37 It is getting brighter in Grums. Soon the kettle will heat the water heat for a thermos for today's trip and also to my breakfast coffee.
09.32 After an almost classic bed edge breakfast, we will soon return on rain-soaked roads. What makes it not a classic is that we do not have any plastic jars with yogurt to shake. The hotel we stay at is mysterious to say the least. The money has been withdrawn from Christer's account and that is great. Since Christer talked to the Asian man in the restaurant, no staff has been seen here. 10.07 The key to room 3 was put in a keyreturnbox. Have I written that word before? Well, now it's off to the south. 10.16 Christer's car and other cars are on the combined E18/E45. Here we have traveled before, then as previously said in a bus on the way to Oslo. 10.23 We said goodbye to E18. We're not going to Oslo this time. The E45 will take us to our seventh and last locality in Värmland on this journey. 10.46 We have just arrived in Säffle. Here we have been received by rain and parked on a large parking lot near the hospital. There is little hope of brightening and end of rain right now. 11.18 No brightening, no end. We sit in the car that remains parked near the hospital. It is becoming a tradition to sit in Värmland towns and watch the pouring rain through the car window. Säffle, who received town privileges in 1951, is thus Sweden's youngest town. In recent times, it is municipalities that counts and it is not so important with town privileges. Here in the city there are 9 324 inhabitants last time they counted.
Säffle, Värmland.
Penguins in Byälven.
Kanalcaféet (The Canal Café) in Säffle is of course close to the canal.
Peter is visiting Kanalcaféet in Säffle.
The legendary Olof Trätälja´s grave.
Interesting car in Säffle.
11.34 Now it's enough waiting. Let's go outside. In any case, it's just water falling from the sky. Wet clothes dry but unseen places remain unseen.
12.05 We got out of the car and at the same time the rain calmed down. It felt like the heavenly powers rewarded our determination. After a small walk through Sweden's youngest town, we are now at the cozy Kanalcaféet (Canal Café) at Säffle kanal. Can a town lose their town rights? 12.44 It is always a pleasure to visit a nice well-kept cafe. In addition, local entrepreneurs should benefit now in these times of crisis. Now we stand at the grave mound of the fairy-tale king Olof Trätälja. It can of course be discussed if he has existed and if he really is here inside the hill. There are also trees and the old water tower here. Just below is a beautiful old chapel that now is a part of a hotel. 13.05 On the way back to the car we crossed Stortorget with the sculpture Tintomara. She is a character in a book by Carl Jonas Love Almquist. Now we are soon ready to go towards a new goal, Åmål. Now it's time to say goodbye to Värmland. There was a lot of rain during the stay in this province. Maybe the sun will shine next time we're here? 13.14 Now we have, with the help of internet, found a suitable parking place in Åmål that we hope Google Maps Ruth can guide us to. 13.35 Ruth was able to show us the way. Just arrived in Åmål we saw the petrol station, Åmål Petroleum. I have not seen such a station before. Never before have I walked around in Dalsland province but soon I have. Earlier on the trip, Christer got to cross off Norrbotten from the unseen list and now I can do the same with Dalsland. Dalsland welcomes us with sunny weather. That is very welcome. 13.42 Brygga Laxen is written on a sign a bit away from where we benched us. Around the pier there are water lying boats. Soon I have been in all the landscapes of Sweden during my life.
This 19th century chapel became a conference center.
Ungdomens hus (The Youth House) in Säffle is using an old school building.
Åmål guest harbour.
Åmål offers us sunshine and nice summer views.
Plantaget is the name of the park in central Åmål.
Åmålsån.
14.06 Now we enjoy the sun. We sit on a bench in the park Plantaget. On the other side of Åmålsån is a square, Åmål Torg. It must be seen as the heart of Åmål. A short distance away is a stone bridge from the past. On the other side of the river there is a former telephone booth converted to a charging station for phones and tablets. Åmål, located by Lake Vänern in northern Dalsland, has 9,439 inhabitants. It is the only town in Dalsland.
14.22 We will, although it is sunny and nice here, now leave and walk along the river Åmålsån. We're going upstream. Downstream is Åmålsviken. 14.39 We have walked along Åmålsån and then visited an ATM. We need cash for an upcoming tour. 14.57 It is time for a now traditional ice cream purchase. Ice cream can slow down and calm a dawning hunger. We first thought to eat some kind of lunch here in Åmål but we found only boring little pizzerias. No one felt particularly attractive. 15.18 The ice creams were purchased and consumed. Once back in the car we were looking for a smooth way out of town and now we are on our way again. 15.48 At Trafikverket's rest stop Vassviken along E45 we are now. It's time for a coffee break here at the border with Mellerud municipality. 16.38 Bye break site. Mellerud, here we come! We're on our way there. Before departure, Christer's phone rang. One with a dialect from Dalarna asked for Anders Sundqvist. 16.50 Right now we are surrounded by Mellerud urban area. It is located in the southeast of Dalsland and has 4,028 inhabitants. It is now time to find a restaurant for a meal as well as a grocery store for purchases for the upcoming supper as well as upcoming days of breakfasts.
Åmål, the only town in Dalsland.
The old stone bridge in Åmål.
Here you can fill up at ÅP, Åmåls Petroleum.
Vassviken, just north of Mellerud.
Köpmantorget, Mellerud.
Christer is sitting down in Mellerud.
17.19 Here in Central Mellerud there is ICA Supermarket Kronan, Hemköp, a closed COOP, Stora COOP and a small shop with food from the Middle East. In terms of meals, you can choose between pizzerias, restaurants Börsen and Vågen, offering amongst others Greek food. On our hunt we have seen a lonely gray speckled bird. It looked like a seagull.
17.37 Yesterday I ate the pizza Casablanca and now it became Casa Bella. We are at Pizzeria Vita Sannar here in Mellerud. It is the two of us who are here as well as two families with children who eat together. 18.19 I have not yet got fed up on pizzas. But some variation in the diet would not be entirely wrong. Before long, we travel towards car parking and installing ourselves. 19.00 Mölnerud is the name of the room which we will stay in. Håverud hostel (STF Håverud Hostel) is the name of the accomodation. The place is thus the small village of Håverud, best known for its aqueduct. A little of the possessions and all of us are now in place. The reception was unmanned. Because of Covid19 we get to handle everything via Swish and text messages. 20.05 Now we are fully in place and drink the last instant coffee from the trip's second jar. Instant coffee may not be the most delicious form of coffee, but it is better than tea and even better than no coffee at all. 20.43 It's time to get a little more acquainted with Håverud. Among other things, we will check how long it takes to go to tomorrow's starting place. We have an excursion booked tomorrow. 21.31 After finding the departure site for tomorrow's canal boat and learning that it only takes a minute to go there, we have seen the aqueduct here in Håverud. It was built to facilitate transportation on the canal that runs here. Now we are at a lookout point above the road, railway and Dalsland canal. The uniqueness right here is the fact that here there are bridges for cars, trains and boats in the same place. Here in Håverud there are also some other interesting sights, such as a fish Smokehouse and a Santa museum. 22.39 Now it's time for a long-awaited evening meal in our room, strawberry jelly and milk. It's simple but oh so good. 23.11 The day began with rain near a factory. Since then, things have only gotten better. It looks like that tomorrow with its excursion will be an even better day.
Today´s dinner (or late lunch) was eaten at the pizza restaurant Vita Sannar in Mellerud.
The hostel in Håverud. We are staying two nights here.
A santa museum, everything is done to attract tourists.
The famous aqueduct in Håverud.
A view of Håverud village.
Peter on a viewing point above the Håverud road.
You can see 70 photos from July 13 in this photoalbum.
You can see 28 photos from July 14 in this photoalbum.
You can see 91 photos from July 15 in this photoalbum.