Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt



Saturday 8th of July

07.47 We just woke up for the second time in Kuala Lumpur. Tonight was an eternal struggle. Sleep with the blanket and get warm or without it and freeze due to the air conditioner and ceiling fan. We will, as soon as Christer has had his shower, have breakfast in the common kitchen. There it is supposed to be all the things we will need for a breakfast. The room might be simple but it is a place to sleep just like all the others rooms we had.

08.23 We had breakfast in bed. There was no hot water in the thermos and the oven that was supposed to toast the bread didn't work. We went back into the room, had some soda and some pastries that Shu Ming had given to us. Once again she saved us.

08.52 We are back on the Monorail again. We are on our way to the station KL Sentral. There it will be a short walk to the metro and a new meeting with Shu Ming. On our way here we passed the old jail Pudu Jail and watched a man who used a garden trimmer to mow a field the size of two soccer fields. I guess it will take him some time.

09.18 We met again, searched for places to store the backpacks at during tomorrow, I withdrew money and now it is time to fill our bellies with nutrition. We need it for sure.

10.05 We’ve had some food at one of the food places at the station. After that we rode the KTM Komuter, this town´s version of the commuter train to the Old Railway Station. Both on our way to and from the commuter it was a dead halt at the turnstile. We got support from different gentlemen. Was the problem due to us or was it our tickets?

Peter and Shu Ming talking about a street sign in Kuala Lumpur.

10.35 We are now standing in front of the National Museum. Is it time to get inside and have a look?

10.55 We didn't get inside. We walked around the museum. Here it is a lot exhibited. We’ve seen different forms of transportation such as cars, ox carts, trishaws, rickshaws and a boat; we also saw an old fire engine.

11.50 Before we left the museum area we entered a traditional Malay house on stilts. In there we saw among other things a bed for newly weds. On the pavement outside of the area Shu Ming showed us some big red ants. We´d better avoid them. If you get bitten by one "That’s it" according to her, we didn't like what we heard and left our red friends alone.

Peter in front of old vehicles. Picture from the National Museum, Kuala Lumpur.

12.43 Since I last wrote a lot has happened. We walked through the town, saw the State Mosque, some banana plants and in the distance saw the caged parks with birds and butterflies. I also got hit on my thigh by a fruit that fell, or was thrown by some animal. Further on have we bought drinks and we are at the National Monument. Here it is peaceful, relaxing, as if time stood still. But it doesn’t and in fifteen minutes we are supposed to make a new attempt to meet Christer's lady friend.

National monument, Kuala Lumpur.

13.50 First we walked, then we walked the wrong way, we got stuck on the wrong side of a highway, after that took the right way and finally reached the Sogo mall where we are now. Soon a union with the lady. Christer just took a chair and said Cheerio....

14.03 It has happened, we met. Now the four of us are sitting down at the lunch restaurant Secret Recipe. We have ordered food and drinks. Christer’s pen pal´s (is that the word if you correspond through e-mail?) name is Norfaizah but she is called Aizah.

Christer and Aizah.

14.37 The lunch is finished. Christer chose the most classic of his dishes, Spaghetti Bolognese. The dish is called Tom Yam spaghetti. It has Thai spices so it isn’t the same spaghetti as usual.

15.40 The gang of four is no more, now we are back being three. We are resting in the old upper class areas close to the Supreme Court. In front of us is huge, green lawn. They are preparing for some kind of festival here.

Merdeka Square, Kuala Lumpur.

16.01 We’ve sat down to refill with fluids at Burger King. I have just been trying some local Muslim headwear. My trying amused the salesman. No matter how I tried wasn’t I able to find one that fitted and I assume that this is what was so funny. I don’t know if the head is too big or the hats are too small.

16.32 We’ve just sat down on a bus that for 2 ringgit takes us around the town. Right now we are going nowhere, hey forget that, we are moving.

17.05 We are after a short stop to buy and eat a huge, freshly baked bunny from Rotiboy Bakeshop back on the bus. Well it isn’t the same bus just another one but the ticket is still valid. The bun was delicious.

17.37 Back in a Monorail wagon. We are on our way back home. It is time for a shower and changing of clothes. We are waving good-bye to the twins, the towers that are. We are going from the end of the line station, Titiwangsa.

18.26 We jumped off a station before ours and went and bought some soft drinks to be used in the future. Now we will have a shower and change clothes. To set things straight we have returned to our room at Anjung Hostel.

20.16 We’ve walked around in the city and seen lots of cats sitting on a scooter. As I was about to take a picture their owner wanted me to donate some money to the cats. I didn't take any pictures and that’s no catastrophe for me. Now we reached the Esquire Kitchen, a restaurant in one of the many shopping malls here in the city. (PS! The restaurant had a fire just short after we had left the city.)

Having another excellent dinner, this was at Esquire Kitchen.

22.56 After we had finished an excellent dinner we walked to another San Francisco Coffee. Here we had coffee and chatted about a lot. Things ranging from childhood memories, tales from our home areas and some other stuff. Now we are back in the room to gather our stuff. This will be a little tricky, considering the fact that we received some gifts from Shu Ming.


Sunday 9th of July

07.21 We’ve done some stuff since the cell phone played for us at a quarter to seven. We woke up, washed up, had breakfast and are almost done.

08.05 The day could have started better. It took a while to check out. As we finally reached the Monorail station the escalator didn't move, the girl behind the counter was half asleep and moved slowly. As we reached the platform the train left without us.

08.49 We waited and caught the next train to the metro. There we joined up with Shu Ming. Now we are on a bus towards her home. She lives in the suburb Petaling Jaya or P.J for short. The town has the same nickname as I do, awesome! In the house where she lives we will place our backpacks during the day.

Indian breakfast :-)

09.14 We switched means of transport and reached the house. The backpacks are left behind. Now we are being served breakfast on a huge banana leaf. We are in an Indian restaurant, Sri Paandi. Pancake, a mix of curry, lamb and coffee. More food is coming up, a dish that looks like a cone.

11.08 Really tasty breakfast, though tough to eat. After that followed a walk through P.J passing a couple of houses. Finally we reached a market place, a market place with meat, fish, egg, vegetables and so on seeming forever. All of it daily fresh of course. Now we are having limejuice in a small restaurant not far from the market.

11.42 We took a taxi back, great. Now we are sitting inside the home of Shu Ming and just relax. Within four hours we will be back on a plane again, now I will go and freshen up.

The market in Petaling Jaya.

PJ in PJ, Peter Johansson in Petaling Jaya.

Peter below a perfect sign, "Peter-Western".

12.31 At first we took a short ride on a local bus. Right now I am writing leaving from the airport bus. It is time to get back in the air again.

13.51 Just before we entered the airport we passed the area where Malaysia’s Grand Prix in Formula 1 takes place. Now we are in the line to counter R34. It is time to check in our bags. They were just approved by the security control. It seems that the luggage goes straight out on the runway after they were checked in.

14.16 The three of us have just sat down at the airport cafeteria "The Coffee Bean and the Tea Leaf", (doesn’t it sound like the name of a fairytale?), for a final cup of mainland coffee. Within half an hour Christer and I will go to the gate. Fun to travel on, sad to part from Shu Ming.

14.59 We’ve hugged, said bye and waved too Shu Ming. Now we are sitting by gate P8. The first part of the trip is done. The next one just started. This will be something unique. The first time we will fly within a foreign country.

15.35 We’ve just sat down at seats 22 E, F. Soon everyone is onboard and all we want is to take a shower. We’ve been sweating today. The company, Air Asia, is a sponsor to Manchester United. The plane has the team colour, logotype and also pictures of some of the players.

16.37 We got away around 30-35 minutes delayed. I treated myself some snacks, Coca Cola and peanuts. I thought that the nuts would bring me salt. Not much salt to get from them. Beneath us are clouds and further down the ocean. Something that struck us in Kuala Lumpur is that so few smoked and even fewer took their dog for a walk.

The Manchester United-style Air Asia flight has landed in Kuching.

17.26 We’ve just landed at Kuching International Airport. On the in flight we saw dense jungle cut through by meandering rivers. We’ve reached the island of Borneo.

19.00 We left the airplane, got a stamp in the passport from the state of Sarawak, fetched our backpacks and arranged with a taxi coupon for 17.50 ringgit. With help with this coupon we caught a taxi. The guy who drove it suggested Damai Beach as our destination. There it is a big music festival. Bad memories from 2001 was remembered (7/7 2001). We asked him to take us to Hotel Harbour View in Kuching. Here we´re staying with a river view at a cost of 148 ringgit per night, that is $20 per person. The room we stay in is rated Superior. Superior or not, one of the light bulbs doesn’t work. It now lies on the table removed from its socket so that they can change it. Now it is time to check what the hotel has offer inside as outside the walls.

View from our room at Harbour View Hotel.

22.48 We popped down to the hotel restaurant at grown floor. I had 6 shish kebabs and Christer chose chicken curry. To drink we had lychee soft drink with the lychee fruit´s tasty whole, round and white ”interior”. Both meals cost 15.50 ringgit each. After that we walked to the 24-hour shop at the corner to buy some stuff. Both my soda and Christer's candy has the Halal sign. That is, approved as food by the Muslim authorities. Last year it was kosher (2/8 2005). What will happen next?


Monday 10th of July

01.55 To the tunes of the Italian national anthem we are waking up. Right now it changed to the French. It is time for the final of the soccer world cup. Four years ago we were in Poland (30/6 2002). Where will we be in four years?

02.50 The score in the game is 1-1. In here is it 2-0 in the game between sleepy and brisk. We will see how the both games ends.

03.51 No change in either of the games, what will happen during extra time?

04.29 Time for penalty shootout.

04.42 Italy are the champions.

09.09 What good did it do that the cell phone tried to wake us up at 08.35 as we went straight back to sleep. We just woke up again and have begun to prepare for breakfast.

11.00 We had our breakfast and returned back up in the room. Here we are relaxing, take it cool and read the newspaper they slid under the door this morning.

Along the river in Kuching.

12.27 We pulled ourselves together and went out to explore Kuching. Outside it is hot. In this heat we walked along the river. Along the river is the tourist information. Inside the cool tourist information we are looking for brochures.

12.49 We just entered a small diner for coffee and pastries. There are plenty of china cats here. Kuching is supposed to mean cat in Malay.

Main Bazaar, the main street in Kuching.

13.03 Coffee and a jam filled 12-15 centimeters long pastry with sesame seeds for 80 cents. Banana cake 15-20 centimeters long with papaya juice for $ 1.10. Nice prices or what? Do we really want to leave the air conditioned Asia Ice Shop?

13.49 After buying postcards and stamps we have returned to our room. Of the five stamps I bought remains three. I must have lost two of them on the way here from the post office. The light bulb is back in position and it shines. Why didn't it shine earlier?

Christer by the Sarawak River in Kuching.

14.28 A gentleman was here to check upon the mini bar and now two men are here to change a light bulb and some flourescent light. Something is fishy with the electrics or us.

15.21 The door just shut again. A new man was here in the room to check the towels. What is going on?

15.48 Rest, siesta etc might be great but sometimes one just have to get out. This is what is going on with us right now. A ”good to know” list is written. Here we have written down things that we have to do.

16.16 Now we are at Travel World across the street and we book tickets for a boat ride to Sibu on Wednesday. We chose VIP seats. Sometimes we just like to have a touch of class over it all. There was no big different in cost, but still..

16.45 We just bought a bottle local produced arrak beverage in a small Chinese liquor store. After that we’ve taken pictures of the huge cat statues and bought snacks at 7 Eleven. Now we are having what we bought, well not the arrak but the rest. We are sitting on a bench by the river. On the river boats are running and we are feeling just fine. We have plans to take aim on the city mosque to take some pictures of it.

Cat statues near the hotel Holiday Inn, Kuching.

Kuching mosque

17.30 An hour ago we took pictures of cats, now it is raining cats and dogs. We found shelter by a fishing shop. I hope it will end soon. At least we were able to take some photos of the mosque.

17.56 We just made a dash to a new rain-free spot. The sun showed itself for a short moment.

18.34 We got tired of all the water and went back home. Now we will look into what we bought and get dry all the way into the bones.

20.18 The power of hunger is about to take control. As soon as the rain stops there is nothing that can keep us inside. Right now we are watching the news. The news is also interpreted with sign language.

21.07 It is time for dinner. We walked to the restaurant Khatulistiwa (The Equator). Lets see what they have to offer. The beer just got here and now the napkins arrived as well as the chopsticks and a rice spoon in a glass of water. No ”ordinary” knife and fork.

21.45 Delicious food that we ate with the chopsticks without any problems. Well not entirely without any problems, Christer got curry sauce in various parts of the face and also on his wristwatch which showed half past curry.

22.25 We walked along the river to get back home. Plenty of small shops selling plenty of things. We made a short stop in a 24-hours store. There the young staff greeted us. It felt like entering a student’s cafe. Now we are back home for plans about tomorrow and sleep.


Tuesday 11th of July

08.40 Here I am again, sitting on the side of the bed. Today we’ve got plans to go on some excursion. We plan to go out in the jungle. The morning paper told us about some schoolgirls who had been struck by hysteria and forced a village school to close. The parents believed that some demons had caught the pupils. Some of them had been rushed to hospital to cure the chock. One of the girls had apparently begun to speak in a language that she didn't master. Pupils with demons are nothing new to us. We´ve got those at home as well.

Government Office?

12.04 We went to the tourist information and read that a walk in the national park that we planned to visit requires walking boots. We switched destination and now we stand near the Sikh Temple and wait for the bus to Kubah. There we can look at wild animals, caged ones but still animals.

12.24 There will be no trip to the wild animals. At least not today. The thing is that we haven’t got the slightest idea from where and when the bus leaves. Now we are sitting in a green area, a park named Padang Merdeka (Independence Place). Perhaps we will go down to and out on the river later today. Let´s see about that. There are several river cruises to choose from.

Padang Merdeka, Kuching.

12.53 There are several river cruises to choose from. We will see which one that we will choose. Now we are making a financial plan. How much more money will we spend in Malaysia?

13.18 Our feet have taken us to a small café. We are sitting here with our coffee and pastries. It is cool in the room and soothing guitar music can be heard from the loud speakers. El condor pasa and the theme from The Godfather have been played.

14.03 We are sitting on a bench along the river walk. A little bit away is the boat we plan to catch later this afternoon. We are finding out if anyone will ride it, how he or she acts and so on. Things that can be good to know as we embark the boat. An old man with just one tooth has asked us about origin, our time in Kuching and our next destination.

14.36 It seems like we will cruise with the bigger boat. It is the one that we most certain know leaves at 17.00. It says so on a whiteboard which is placed onboard. The ticket price is 45 ringgit and that includes drink and snacks. We have a coupon that gives us 10 % discount.

15.02 Back at the hotel. We just heard a sound and the air conditioner went silent. It seems to be a brown out. Hey that was a new sound. Hurrah, the power is back on.

16.37 We are standing and looking out over the river. The same river that we soon will go out on. We just have to get ready first. What will happen on this boat trip?

16.53 Right behind me is the river and in it is the boat we plan to travel with. There isn’t much rush for the tickets. We take it calm and wait what happens.

Preparing for the Sarawak River Cruise onboard MV Equatorial.

17.23 We are sitting by a round table on the upper deck of the boat MV Equatorial. I´ve just eaten the waffle I bought before I boarded.

17.46 While we got information about the city and its buildings the drinks and snacks were served. The drink was sweet orange juice and the snacks were cookies. The city view is changing into forest. They have promised us some entertainment and right now we can hear rain falling on the roof of the boat.

18.01 Just as the green was taking over the boat turned. Now we are going downstream passing the areas where we boarded. We saw a little of each so far. Among the things we´ve seen are some buildings from the colonial days, local village buildings and some really fancy flats.

18.28 We passed under a bridge and turned back again. Huge amounts of either spiders or bugs are carrying away the bread crumps on our table. They seem to live in a hole in the metal table.

18.33 The entertainment has begun. Four dancers in colourful clothes are dancing around to some music. They are showing folk dances from local groups of people like Iban, Biduyuh and Orang Ulu. Our small friends have taken all the crumps. The table is ever so clean.

18.45 We just joined the dancers. Christer, I and five others in our age were invited/forced to dance with the dancers. We gently moved our arms and legs while people took pictures and applauded. Somewhere in the world there are pictures to prove this. I don’t think I want to see them.

Ending our river cruise in heavy rain.

20.12 We left the boat and went straight to an Internet Café and now we are back at the same place as yesterday, sitting by the same table. We won´t order the same food, we had that yesterday. We will neither order similar. Other food has been ordered.

20.41 Christer’s food, came, was seen and is almost eaten. I haven’t seen any trace of my food. Hey, something is coming towards us.

21.49 The food came and you can see traces of it on my tongue. It was spicy, it was tasty. Another thing that sure has taste is this evening´s snack. I bought some durian-spiced cornballs. I had some and the rest I sent away. I threw them away. It was impossible to flush them down the toilet. Not even the sewers want to have it. Durian is a huge, spiky fruit which has a soft interior that is said to be sexually stimulating. It has a smell, no odour that is hard to beat. The fruit is banned on most hotels and public places like the metro. Although the fruit is long gone the odour remains.


Wednesday 12th of July

06.10 We managed to get up before the sun. The final unpacked thing hangs on the chair. It is time for our final meal here before we sail away with the eight a clock boat. The time has come to leave Kuching, A city said to be one of Asia’s friendliest. We liked it here as well, organized yet exotic.

06.54 We had breakfast and are pleased. Soon we will travel on in a taxi.

07.31 We checked out and got our deposit money back. After that we headed out to catch a taxi. The man had to ask his colleges about the way to the terminal. He had some long, grey hair on his left cheek. Now we’ve boarded the boat Ekspres Bahagia 18. We are sitting in the VIP area. On the TV in front of us is some songs performed in Chinese. The lyrics can be seen at the bottom of the screen and words that are sung are coloured blue. I don’t know this for sure I am only guessing. I am not that good in Chinese. Now they just carried on a Xerox copying machine.

08.37 We just left the harbour, Christer, I and the others on the ride.

09.33 Around us from horizon to horizon all we see is water. We have left the town called cat (kuching).

11.11 We have left open water and travels upstream a river named Batong Rejang.

Travelling with the speedboat from Kuching to Sibu.

11.25 We’ve just stopped in a new harbour and the Xerox copying machine has left the boat. Instead they carried on a couple of boxes. They just untied the boat and we are off again. It is cold here to say the least. Full speed on the cool air from the air conditioner.

11.59 The river we sail on is getting more and more narrow. Green trees on both sides of the river.

12.10 The forest areas ended and out of the green the city of Sarikei appeared. Many chose to get off here but we remain.

13.15 Once again are there buildings on the shores. Have we reached today's destination? That would be great because on TV all we see is WWF wrestling, what’s the meaning with this sport.

13.33 I was too quick to cheer. The power of the forest is back and the wrestling remains. I am getting fed up with going by boat. Sure there are some spectacular views in this river system but you have to draw the line somewhere.

13.44 We are about to end this journey. All I want to do is to get out from this boat. Now we just have to find a new home.

14.03 It went like a charm. We‘ve checked in at River Park Hotel in Sibu. Our room number is 105 and the price for the room is $ 15.30 per night.

15.41 We’ve been on a photo safari. We have taken pictures of the large swan statue, some in the centre and the town’s pagoda. Now we are resting in a park.

Tua Peh Kong, the Chinese temple in Sibu.

The Swan, a symbol for the city of Sibu.

Christer in a Sibu park.

16.01 It is time for some food at restaurant Sugarbun. I choose a hamburger meal and Christer went for beef stew.

16.19 My burger meal was a kid’s meal, small burger, tasty fries, a dash of mashed potato and chocolate milk. This was eaten in haste and a new, hopefully bigger, burger with Cola is ordered. Christer’s stew and rice is delicious and the sauce on the side is multi flavoured. First sour and then really HOT.

Peter eating from the children´s menu

16.29 The next order was just as big or small. I guess it is not common for an adult to buy a burger in these areas. But nevermind, I have only paid under $3. We are opposite a school and kids are waving merrily at us pale, strange persons.

18.03 The adventurers went boldly towards new goals in search of soda, postcards and more to see. We saw more, bought sodas in the store Supershan but we haven’t seen any postcards. We will have to look into that.

20.58 The time has come to get out to get some food.

Sibu

21.29 We searched and finally found the Jumbrella Café, an open-air place in the centre that serves food. We are waiting for beef noodles and Coca Cola. Ok, the waiter just informed us that they are out of beef noodles. We will make a new attempt. We will go for beef and spaghetti. The best thing so far is that they are playing "Still loving you" with the Scorpions. It sure wasn’t yesterday that I heard something from that heavy metal band.

22.48 Home again. One thing is for sure; we are not the only guests here. An elderly gentleman joined us up the stairs. Before we got home we bought something that reminded us of sponge cake. Now we need to get something to drink before we slow down

23.49 We are opening a can of beer each. No one of us has tried this brand before. Its name is Bali Hai. Its homepage is www.balihaibeer.com. We are also looking for possible places to stay in our next town, Bintulu.


You can see 22 photos from July 8 in this photoalbum.
You can see 10 photos from July 9 in this photoalbum.
You can see 18 photos from July 10 in this photoalbum.
You can see 21 photos from July 11 in this photoalbum.
You can see 13 photos from July 12 in this photoalbum.


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