Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt
08.40 There are beds that you sleep great in. That isn’t the case in these beds. You sleep even better. The sleep has been divine. Outside the sun is shining on people and beasts and soon upon us as well. It is time to see more of Tagbilaran which according to some sources is one of the cities in the country with the most polluted air. The reason for this is the thousands of tricycles travelling around the city all day long.
Low-price shop outside of our hotel in Tagbilaran.
11.11 We’ve been out on the town and bought some postcards. Now we are at the tourist information and we´re booking a trip for tomorrow. This includes a little of each, simply said a tour around the island of Bohol.
11.37 The roundtrip is booked. We also got some information about ferries and beaches. Now we will write the postcards before we head for one of those beaches.
Tagbilaran with and without smog.
12.55 We booked a transport through the reception and we´re now in a taxi on our way towards Alona Beach on the neighbouring island Panglao. The time has come for yet another dip in the blue. It is just a short bridge to this island and it feels more like a peninsula.
13.42 The driver wanted 400 peso ($ 8) for the trip; we have posted the postcards and sat down to have lunch at the hotel restaurant Alona Kew. As soon as we´ve had our lunch we will go to the beach. What we´ve seen of the beaches so far isn’t much to brag about, a tiny strip of sand and loads of boats in the water. But still it is a new island. For the first time in a while there are plenty of Americans, Europeans and Australians, orr for short pale people. Here they stay in different hotels and diving centres.
Christer eating sweet & sour pork on Alona Kew.
14.39 We are at place under some palm trees. It is soon time to hit the ocean. I have just got an offer for massage. As we look out over the sea we can see several islands. The ones we identified are Camiguin, Siquijor, Cebu and Pamilacan. Camiguin is a distant silhouette, Cebu shows us its southern tip but our next destination Siquijor can be seen clear and visible.
Alona Beach, Panglao.
Wonderful view while relaxing on the beach.
The island of Siquijor at the horizon.
15.22 A moment ago an ice cream wagon passed. A man pulled a big cooling bag on wheels. From the vehicle we heard a melody. But it was mostly over heard by the waves.
17.38 We’ve been out on the internet and preliminary booked future homes. Now we wait for a taxi back to the hotel. I wonder what he will charge us? The driver is supposed to be kind and cheap, all according to the girl in the tourist information here.
18.24 He asked for 450 pesos our driver. Now with a little help of water the solid particles on the body will be removed. We’ve returned to Wregent Plaza.
Inside Wregent Plaza Hotel.
21.10 We are back after a dinner here at the hotel. I ordered squid and Christer chose deep fired beef. My squid was out so I chose hot and spicy shrimps instead. They arrived and were for sure hot and spicy. A cup of coffee on the food did the trick. Now we are thinking about tomorrow. What will happen? What will we see? What will it give? Will we be doing it? Or over sleep?
07.24 OK, we passed the first obstacle. We woke up. Next thing for me will be to have a shower. On to that follows most likely breakfast.
08.39 We just had the day’s first meal. In twenty minutes we will go to the first stop on the round trip. It is going to be exciting to go around and see more of island´s sights. There is plenty to see but I can’t remember them all. The brochure was unfortunately forgotten at the tourist information.
08.52 Why is one so restless when waiting for something? Is it because you can’t control it? Is it the fact that if you don’t have total control you get more alert? We have nevertheless moved down to the sofas in the reception. We are still uncertain what time is correct here. The watches in the reception are ten minutes before our time. I think I´ve seen watches here on the island showing the same time as ours.
09.08 Either does third time count for our ride or it is late. Outside the hotel countless of tricycles and some vans pass by.
09.46 The girl in the reception has phoned and checked with the tourist information. We have a new time; we don’t know if this is the time that has the right time or if it is a new one. Whatever the reason the transport will be here at 10.00. Our, the local or some other 10.00 remains to find out. Now they carry a TV into the hotel. It is for us. Well not to keep. The one we have in our room will be switched. We are looking forward to colours on all channels from now on.
10.11 He who waits for something great today waits for 80 minutes. We are on our way. Christer, I and the guy that drive. It is just the two of us and one driver that make this round trip. We are in a car that might belong to the driver.
Blood Compact Site
View of the island Pamilacan.
10.25 We just made the first stop. We are at Blood Compact Site. It is a memorial statue over the pact between Bohol’s and Spain’s people in 1565. The persons that are pictured are the Spaniard Miguel Lopez de Legazpi and the local guy Rajah Sikatuna. Next in line, a church.
The coral church in Baclayon
10.49 I am sitting on a stone bench in the Baclayon church. The church is from 1727 and built from coral stone. The altarpiece is stunning. The windows are in different colours. The whole church has a touch of calm, piece and harmony. The toilet area is in a separate building. It is modern and clinically clean. A man with his mouth covered sits outside selling tickets. This is the second time on our trips that we bought tickets for the toilet. Last time was in Slovenia (2/8 2000).
The tarsiers in Loboc.
11.05 Our trip has now taken us to a new place, Loboc. Here we will visit the island´s tarsiers. They are nearly blind in daytime so it is forbidden to take pictures of them with a flash. If so done they will get startled.
11.23 After saying hello to the cool tarsiers, they are small, big eyed primates, we are heading upstream along the Loboc River. A teenage guy drives the boat and guides us about all the things we see along the river. Right now we made a short stop. We are going in a pumpboat. We paid 500 pesos for this journey. Our driver wait for us by a lunch restaurant down stream.
Tontonan Falls.
Two tourists in a boat.
A restaurant travelling on the river.
11.37 We´ve just been and turned at the Tontonan Falls, some small but definitely mighty falls. A spider just fell from above; it walked on Christer’s leg and disappeared into the boat. I guess we never know if it was harmless or not.
12.02 We passed some nipa palm trees. They are used as they build houses here. We also met a boat with three humans and a dog. They had caught a monitor lizard which they proudly showed to us. We have earlier met some floating restaurants.
Along Loboc River, Bohol.
12.19 We reached the mouth of the river and met some pumpboats with sails. Our guide has also shown us some caves where Japanese soldiers hid during world war two. We also saw an old sunken Japanese boat which was visible under the water.
13.10 We are enjoying a delicious buffet lunch. We are eating rice, vegetables, Chicken Adobo, shish kebab, crab and fish. The eating-place is Loboc River View Restaurant.
Peter enjoying the deserts in Loboc River View Restaurant.
13.41 On our way to our next stop in Carmen we are going through a mahogny forest in Bilar. The forest is "manmade", planted by humans (not so surprising). The road wind its way upwards. On the hillsides here and there along the Loboc River are our big-eyed friends running free.
Christer preparing for the 214 steps.
14.14 We reached Carmen and have taken us to what might be the main tourist attraction in the Philippines. We have walked the 214 steps to the top of the viewing point here. Around us are the famous Chocolate Hills. Some claim they look like molehills, others that they look like breasts. I don’t know for sure. They are nevertheless amazing. Maybe they are like countless of snow piles, sand piles or pour attempts to build sand castles. I let you judge about it!
Chocolate Hills
Peter writing in his journal on a wonderful spot.
The countryside near Carmen.
15.29 Before we left the Chocolate Hills we felt an urge to buy a final postcard, this time to our old friend Tobias. Why? Well one can’t forget him on a day like this. He is from Gotland which consists of limestone like the Chocolate Hills. We are also in Carmen which is the name of his former girlfriend. During our journey homebound we passed a jeepney that had just as many people on the outside as on the inside.
16.00 The roundtrip is over and cost 2300 peso (ca $ 48) for the both of us, not to bad price for a whole day. Now we sat down in the hotel restaurant. We have ordered coffee and sandwiches.
The cathedral in Tagbilaran.
17.13 Home again after an attempt to buy ferry tickets. That was without any success. It will be bought on the pier tomorrow. We are going to Dumaguete but the saleslady only had tickets to Cebu City. We also went to the post office and finally bought bread while we did our best to get rid of some begging kids. We always had some of them close to us on our way home. Why don’t they ever hunt the local people, not even the wealthy? Have they learned that Westerners always have and give money? Our new TV has colour on all channels. Yes!
20.50 Another Jollibee is visited. Another Champ eaten. The orders were taken buy a girl with a name that sent shivers down our spines, Dorina. She wasn’t even close to her namesake that we met in Bucharest 2002 (22/7). Today’s Dorina thanked Christer for giving the accurate amount of money.
21.44 What a fantastic day! It might have started with a doubt but then it started to move in precisely the right pace. How peaceful it was on the river an up on the hills.
08.46 From the TV flows news, from the air conditioner flows cool air and from us energy flows to travel on. Well, to be honest we are not that full of energy.
10.00 We were far from alone during the breakfast. The whole thing lasted much longer than predicted and now we will put together all of our belongings, at least what we brought with us on the trip.
10.41 A brisk walk brought us to the ferry terminal, far out on a pier. Here we went through a security control, bought tickets, signed our names on a list and now we´re sitting down in the waiting room and listen to three blind guys playing hits from the 60:s. On top of this our backpacks have been marked with some stickers and we got a note to confirm that we were the owners of the backpacks.
11.14 We have left the port. Destination is Dumaguete on the island Negros. We are travelling with Weesam Express. On the boat’s TV they just read "Our Father". Now follows the safety instructions.
12.38 After a ride on the open sea we now have an island on starboard side. We are slowing down, seem to be on the way to dock. We have reached the port of Dumaguete. The staff are thanking us over the loud speakers for making them a part of our day.
13.15 The stay in the city might have begun better regarding me. As we left the boat we did our best to pass some tricycle drivers. As we got outside the port area I made a quick move to the side to avoid what I thought was another offer. There I thought there would be a sideway was only a hole in it. This resulted in me loosing my balance and crashing into the ground like a ton of bricks. Both knees scratched and my legs got dirty. I got up again and we headed on to the planned place. It was fully booked at La Residencia Al Mar. They gave us information about World View Pension Plaza. We went there and now reside in room 306. Here I washed my wounded legs.
Eating lunch in Dumaguete.
15.09 We’ve got a nice room, TV with many channels, some with strange colours and an air conditioner with the control panel behind a hatch. One thing that the room lacks is food. To get this we have went to Mc Neloy´s La Caviteòa. Here we have ordered a cheeseburger each. Outside a man walked by with a Swedish sign on his shirt. This is an international place. The university Silliman is just nearby.
16.31 We are back in the room. Out on the town we’ve walked along the beach walk, seen a church and shopped at the supermarket Fortune Mart.
The promenade in Dumaguete.
Clock tower in central Dumaguete.
19.00 We sat down in yet another internetcafe. This time it is Netopia Internet café. Before we went out we watched a TV programme where a man claimed that there is a connection between abortions and breast cancer. This we find it hard to believe. It might be added that it was the Catholic Church’s TV-channel broadcasting this.
Perdices Street, Dumaguete
20.07 We have just entered the Chinese restaurant Chin Loong. We are slightly hungry and are looking forward to food.
21.03 Home again pleased in many ways. Christer had a noodle dish and I chose a mix of different dishes. The most exotic one was the bird nest soup. It was hot and delicious. Now we are thinking about the name of the place around tomorrow’s beds. It hurts in my wounds but I am happy that nothing serious happened.
09.27 Here the usual routines have been done. We’ve woken up, had a shower and checked the latest news on TV. Now we are wondering what the breakfast might consist of.
10.14 Nothing extraordinary for breakfast, rice, corned beef/longganisa, coffee and a banana.
11.47 We are having plans to sit down in the café for coffee and killing some time before we head for the harbour. I prefer to avoid falling on my knees again. We are about to leave this island for the nearby island of Siquijor, a peaceful place in so many ways, at least according to what we read.
12.07 We are inside the café having orange juice and ham sandwiches. Outside the rain is coming down heavily. We hope it will end before our meal has ended.
The ferry leaving without us.
12.47 There will be no trip at 13.30. It is unfortunately fully booked to Siquijor town on Siquijor Island or Siquijor Siquijor as the place naggingly is called. We had to buy tickets for the 16.30-boat. The only positive in this is that the rain has calmed down.
13.29 Now it leaves, the boat we planned to leave with. We wish it no harm. It is supposed to come back and pick us up in three hours. We are sitting by the beach walk and watch the water, boats and people passing.
14.12 We left our resting place to avoid being a part of the city map but also to avoid all the salesmen. They did their best to try to sell us pearls, watches, sunglasses, super glue, porno movies and sexually stimulating potions. Now we are back at yesterdays lunch place. We are waiting for beer and noodles.
"Crispy noodles" and other goodies for lunch.
Delta Fast Ferry terminal in Dumaguete.
15.31 We are finally in the ferry terminal. It is floating and it feels like a house on a raft. The food in the restaurant was great but the coffee we ordered was far from strong. Christer’s "crispy noodles" soon turned soft like regular ones as they came in contact with the warm sauce. Now remains one hour before departure.
16.12 We are sitting down on seats 13A,B. We are going with the ferry company Delta Fast Ferries. I hope for nice journey and that it will be easy to find a room.
16.53 We are slowly travelling on. It seems that the engine at best runs on half speed. It is stuffy in the cabin and the staff keep looking out of the open door and possibly down into the engine room. We roll even more and can hear a cracking sound.
17.20 Am I imagining things or are we going back and forth? It seems like we go to the right and then slide back to the left. It is also high waves to say the least. When will we reach land?
18.01 We’ve really late reached Siquijor and got a ride with a multicab. We are sitting in the back with steel bars around us. We are talking to Cesar who give us information about the island and talks about his relative in Sweden. He has also informed us that our ferry had a broken engine. That was the reason why we moved back and forth. The driver is filling up with petrol while he is driving. He holds the petrol bottle in his right hand pouring down the petrol through a hose next to him.
Peter, newly arrived to the bungalow on Siquijor.
18.54 We’ve checked in at Coral Cay Resort. We are staying in room 6B. Well room and room, it is the left half of a bungalow on the beach. On the beach some palm trees are waving. We got offered several prices, first full price, then 20 % discount and finally 10 % discount. We brought with us a menu and are about to order from the young lady that checked us in. We’ll be having Californian hamburgers with beer to drink. Our room has no TV.
Christer relaxing in the tropical darkness.
20.59 We had dinner and walked along the beach. This is truly harmony.
22.35 Here we are lying down and we´re talking about old and present pupils. Suddenly I got up, unlocked the door and made sure that the palm beach was still in place. It is easy to forget where you are.
Our walls are made of material from the nipa palm tree.
08.15 I just sat down on our porch. The wind is blowing through my hair. In front of me is 5-6 metres sand beach with palm trees on it. Where the beach ends the waves are rolling in.
10.42 We left our cottage and went to have breakfast. I had to hold on to the napkin or it would have blown away. For breakfast we had banana pancake, coffee and toast. After that followed a beach walk. The ocean is withdrawing.
The beautiful view from our bungalow.
Peter standing in fromt of our new home.
12.24 We changed money and are about to change element. Ocean here we come.
13.32 Nothing wrong with the ocean. The ocean floor on the other hand disappointed us. Just as we had left the sandy beach the mud took over and further out the seaweed, but we got the chance to wet our bodies. I am sorry to say that it was more mud dipping than water dipping. The beach is meant for viewing not bathing.
The beach on Coral Cay Resort.
Where did the ocean go?
14.35 The ocean keeps pulling back. The seaweed is no longer beneath the surface.
17.12 The ocean still hasn’t come back. But we came back from a walk in the village Solangon just nearby. Before we left the resort we saw the local jeepney with a deer horn in the front. Inside it had some cool stickers. ”Save the environment, plant a Bush back in Texas.” ”Somewhere in Texas there is a village missing its idiot.” As we were about to buy some Coca Cola in the village kiosk we were first offered green and red Coca Cola, it probably was petrol. We went for the old classic colour and flavour.
Christer by the roadside in Solangon, Siquijor.
Road through the village Solangon.
19.05 The ocean is crawling closer. We won´t crawl but we´ll go and eat dinner.
20.15 During the meal we saw three other guests. We also saw them during yesterday’s dinner and two of them were spotted during breakfast. They seem to be two Germans and a Filipino lady. After dinner we followed the waterline to the neighbouring resort. Now we are having Cola and banana cake. It must be done at the porch according to bungalow rules. If we have it inside the house pest might strike us. We guess it means irritating insects. The only insects we seen so far are the ants coming up in the washbasin in the bathroom. Here we are with effective mosquito repellent and just been bothered by ants. Ants don’t carry malaria so all is well.
22.45 We are trying out a pleasant alarm call, something that will awake us gently. It is after all vacation.
The Coral Cay jeepney
You can see 8 photos from August 2 in this photoalbum.
You can see 40 photos from August 3 in this photoalbum.
You can see 8 photos from August 4 in this photoalbum.
You can see 8 photos from August 5 in this photoalbum.
You can see 11 photos from August 6 in this photoalbum.
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