Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt



Monday 9th of April

07.01 We have awakened in our room at B&B Delfino Blu in Genoa, Italy. An ambulance is honking on the road below of our room. Today there is no time to sleep in. Today we'll go abroad and not just once.

08.17 La prima colazione (breakfast) was consumed in the kitchen. There was coffee, cereal and milk, yogurt, toast, some pastries and something cold to drink. Perhaps it was iced tea, maybe not. It is time to pack up and go on.

Early on Monday morning. It is quiet outside the window.

08.29 It went smooth to check out. The keys were given to a lady we met in the stairwell. The front door is however locked. We are unable to get out.

08.44 Christer went up to our hostess and presented our problem. There was a buzz from the door and we made a new attempt to get out with the same result. We finally found a button which we pushed and then we came out. Now we are at Piazza Principe railway station and seated on the train, which soon will proceed towards Ventimiglia, a town I passed through by bus in 1990.

09.47 We are passing the town of Pietra Ligure and have the Ligurian Sea to the left. Above us are rain clouds and a few moments ago we passed a lemon tree.

10.08 We have stood still for nearly a quarter of an hour at Albenga, Are we standing still so that the timetable will be correct or what? There are rain-laden clouds in the sky. People walk around with umbrellas. What's the Italian word for umbrella by the way? Last summer, we learned the Spanish word when we visited Costa Rica.

10.31 The train started again and now we roll on rails which I have been on before. We have passed the resort of Alassio and are now in Diano Marina. I was here in the area for vacation in 1990.

Ventimiglia, the last we see of Italy for a while.

Peter waits for the train that will take us towards Monaco and France.

The railway station in the mini-country Monaco is located deep in the underground.

A first look at the principality of Monaco.

11.22 After having traveled through some tunnels, one of them a long, before, during and after San Remo, we´re now in the border town of Ventimiglia. Here we are lining up to buy a train ticket to Monte Carlo/Monaco. The queue moves ever so slowly. You cannot buy the tickets at a vending machine at this time. The machines only work for domestic trips within Italy.

11.59 We let two Germans who were in a hurry for the train to Nice pass us. Now our tickets for our onward travel have been purchased. I also have, after some hassle, bought a sandwich and a soft drink. The problem was that I ordered the sandwich without first paying for it in a separate cashier. This is what we did as we travelled through Italy in 2004. A man stepped before me during the purchase. He wondered about the cost for a packet of cigarettes. The lady told him that they cost 4 Euros and 30 cents. He did not understand and I tried to tell him by using fingers and English. This did not help much. His question was what it costs in francs? Franc ceased to be a currency, ten years ago. Could it be that he meant the Swiss franc? I paid for the soft drink and the sandwich and traded its receipt for a sandwich by the other counter.

12.37 Christer bought something to eat and drink and we are now on a new train. It is a red train with a text saying Principauté de Monaco. The train is modern with a digital display and a clear voice which in due time will tell which station we are approaching.

MONACO

13.19 We are now at the station Monte Carlo, Monaco. It is built underground and there are a number of outputs on different levels to get to the principality. Here, we want to find a left luggage office for the big backpacks and also buy tickets for our trip to Nice.

13.41 We have encountered difficulties. There is no left luggage office here at the station. The question is whether there is anyone in Monaco. The solution will be to go on to the station in Nice, leave your luggage there and go back here. We want to see Monaco and do so without the backpacks on our backs. We realized that when we were in Athens all we wanted was to have our backpacks and now we just want to get rid of them.

14.12 After having been out on Monegasque soil for a short while, we´re ready to go abroad again. Nice, here we come! I hope it's possible to leave the luggage and maybe get us a lunch at the station in Nice.

FRANCE

14.55 We have come to Nice and the railway station Gare de Nice Ville. We had the backpacks x-rayed before we put them in a storage locker. We have received a receipt with a code that we must provide in order to recover our property. Now we have bought a return ticket to Monaco. We have decided to have lunch in Monaco. Now it's time to rush. The train is going back soon!

MONACO

15.22 Now we are back in Monaco. It is time to look around, take in impressions and take some photos. Monaco is the world's second smallest country and a good walk should probably cover most of this land, which extends to around 2 square kilometers.

15.33 We're in a new country and are having a bench break. This is the 85th country which I write a travel journal in. The temperature here is pleasant.

15.47 I sit down in a beautiful park with a fountain behind me and the casino and the Café de Paris in front of me. Up at the fountain, we saw some policemen help a man and even a duck that lay dormant in the well-kept lawn.

Monaco

There are plenty of helpful policemen on the streets of Monaco.

Casino de Monte Carlo.

Expensive cars outside Hotel de Paris.

16.04 I have been inside the Hotel de Paris and stroked a horse on the front leg. It will bring good luck during the stay here in Monte Carlo. We'll see if it's true. I might add that it is a sculpture and not a real horse.

16.16 It is pure luxury everywhere here in Monaco. Some expensive cars were parked outside the Hotel de Paris was. It included a number of Porsche and Ferrari. A car from Liechtenstein drove past and even some sports cars of the more expensive model. Out in the water is a cruise ship.

16.32 We and many other tourists have walked along the Avenue d'Ostende and finally we reached down to the harbour area and here we have set ourselves down at the restaurant La Caravelle. It is time for pizza. In the water behind me are some incredibly beautiful boats. Between me and the boats are nice cars running along a road.

17.12 It was delicious pizzas. I drank a beer from this country and had an espresso afterwards. A cruise ship honked before departure during our meal. This was the starting signal for the dog here at La Caravelle. It shot off into traffic with the daughter of the owners running after. She soon came back and picked up a leash. When she returned, it was without both leash and dog, but she looked happy. I thing here problems have been solved.

17.37 The city and the country are gearing up for this year's Formula 1 racing. We walk along the road/track. You can not describe in words how amazing all the boats are here. There is nothing wrong with the view as well.

A cruise ship is visiting Monaco this day.

View over Monaco harbour and Monaco-Ville.

Peter tests the expensive local beer.

Christer stands in front of a selection of Monaco boats.

The cruise ship is heading towards new destinations.

Musée Océanographique de Monaco.

17.52 We came, after using roads, elevators and escalators, up by the Oceanographic Museum and in addition to museum is a research institute. The research Institute was founded in 1910 by Prince Albert I of Monaco. Jacques-Yves Cousteau was the director of the Institute for many years, he started there 1957. In the museum you can among others see Cousteau’s scuba gear and look at the huge aquarium. We took a quick look on the outside of it and have now moved the short distance to the city's cathedral. They are about to close. Close to the cathedral is the country's small parliament has 24 seats. The prince of the country shares power with the Parliament.

18.14 Our long walk has now taken us to the palace, the Palais de Monaco. We have seen guards in boxes and a statue of François Grimaldi. Dressed as monks, he and a few relatives and friends managed seize power in the royal palace. This took place on the 8th of January 1297 and still today a Grimaldi is the ruler of Monaco.

Cathédrale de Monaco

Monaco's parliament has only 24 seats.

Palais de Monaco. The home of the family Grimaldi.

Beautiful view of a small country.

18.46 It is time to say goodbye to Monaco. There is an incredible amount of things to see on such a small space. The city planning is important here. Once again we are at the railway station in this city/country. In about fifteen minutes it's off to Nice again. This is actually the day's fourth trip abroad.

FRANCE

20.15 Fast and convenient, we came to Nice and got out the backpacks out of the box. We walked quickly to the Old town and to the pre-booked accommodation Hostel Smith (http://www.hostelsmith.com). In the reception was a young man. He stated Christer's first name with a French touch and the surname with an accent a la Stockholm. He was Swedish. He took charge and promised to show us the room. He put on his coat and showed us out of the lobby, down the stairs and out of the house. The room was not in the same house, not even in the same neighborhood. It was a short walk for us but now we are in room 4. It is time to come up with more. There was an empty carry-on bag here in the room when we walked into. The Swede took it. The room is part of an apartment and have the most significant, however, no toilet paper.

21.04 We are now sitting in a dormant fountain. Just now we went and bought breakfast and evening drinks in a shop. They certainly had toilet paper but only in multi-packs.

21.53 We have reached the square, Espace Masséna. There is a large fountain, and around seven old men who sit on high pillars, pillar saints? The lads change colours now and then. I have started collecting napkins in case we do not find a toilet roll.

22.39 Here, things happen in the late evening. First, we met a Swedish woman who had damaged her front teeth after falling. She had been en route from Spain to Italy. She would change trains in Marseilles but had fallen asleep on the train. When she woke up here in Nice she just walked off without her luggage. Now she had wandered around after she had been speaking to the police. She would visit the Swedish consulate when they open tomorrow morning. After we left her a financial contribution we looked up a place where we could eat. First we saw a hamburger place, then Subway before we stopped and ordered the pizza place Stuzzico with a window facing the street. The lady at the counter talked mixed French, Italian, and something that sounded like a mixture of both languages. Was it Provençal or Occitan? We got napkins to the pizza. Now here eating pizza and drinking soda/juice.

23.45 1664 is the name of the beer we drink. We are about to go to sleep. Tomorrow awaits a new adventure. Our bunk bed seems a bit rank. How will it go to sleep?

This is where we will stay.

The Place Massena with its statues that constantly changes color.

It will be a late dinner in the form of a take-away pizza.


Tuesday 10th of April

07.45 We had no problems sleeping in the bunk bed. It creaked a little in it but everything has gone well. Within an hour or so are we going to see Nice, nice!

08.40 It was perhaps not the most culinary and steadiest breakfast but it was something to eat. It was guava juice and white hot dog bun like bread. We had bought the ingredients for this feast in a small shop in Old City last night. The breakfast which is offered at Hostel Smith felt really simple and we did not feel motivated to walk there for so little.

09.43 Now we have left our room/apartment and have just handed over our keys and backpacks in the lobby of the Hostel Smith. It's time to walk around in the old parts of Nice. We will retrieve the backpacks in a few hours.

10.16 We have walked past the small butchers, cheese shops and market stalls. Here you don’t buy your; meat, cheese, fruit and bread in the same store. Instead, you visit the butcher, cheese shop, market and bakery. It takes longer but gets better. Now we're back in the square with the pillar saints, Espace Masséna. I guess that we will continue walking for about 2 ½ hours.

One of many narrow streets in the oldest part of Nice.

Le Palais des ducs de Savoie.

Place Massena, Nice.

10.51 We are sitting down on a white park bench along Nice classic boardwalk, Le Promenade de Anglais. Down on the pebbly beach is a man in swimming trunks. It's not surprising that our thoughts go out to Rio de Janeiro and Copacabana. There is a beautiful beach, an ocean and a city view. However, it is not tourist season yet. A dump truck is driving around in the sand where people come to swim and sunbathe in a few months.

11.23 On the tray next to me is a cup of espresso and a croissant. Christer will soon appear with his cappuccino and a muffin. We are at a cafe called Take Away. We sit on Rue Masséna.

12.43 We took a walk to the harbour where the ferry probably departs from. We also saw a monument to the city's sons who died in WWI. After that we went to the hamburger place that we saw last night and meant to visit today. Thinking is one thing, action quite another. It was full of people waiting to order or to get what they ordered. It seemed to take a really long time so we skipped the burgers and went for the backpacks that we had left at Hostel Smith.

Well-stocked fruit shop in Nice.

Rue Massena, Nice.

Restaurant at the beach.

Christer is trying French coffee.

13.00 We got back our baggage, swung it onto our backs and returned to the harbour. We didn’t see any ferry at Terminal 2, but we saw facts about our boat on a monitor. Very soon a minibus stopped and honked. We went there and the female driver said, Bastia? Christer said "Si" and now we go with it/her. Wait, is not Si Italian? Don’t they say Oui in France? Well, Si or Oui, we entered it anyway. I wonder where it stops.

13.24 We were dropped off at Terminal 3 on the other side the harbour area. Mega Express Five Genova can be read on the yellow ferry which stands with stern to the quay. This is what we and the others are going to ride with. It has just arrived here in Nice and now empties its content in the form of people and vehicles. It says Veolia on the minibus standing next to. That's the same of a company which owns buses and trains home.

14.05 We are on the ferry and have sat us down on a large, white box with life jackets in. We are out on the deck, waiting for the ferry to depart. Another thing we want is to find a cheap food options. We have left the backpacks in a luggage compartment by the front desk.

Christer and the beach in Nice.

Passengers going aboard the Mega Express 5.

15.25 We're out on the sea going towards the island of Corse (Corsica). We have had lunch on board. We ate Spaghetti Bolognese with bread and drinks. Christer drank Fanta and I Corsican beer, Pietra. Pietra is clearly the best French beer I drank. There are toilets on board for everyone, men, women, disabled people and dogs. The latter is a small gravel bed on the deck. We are looking for a place to sit.

15.48 We found a place to sit at. We are back on the same boxes as we sat on a little earlier. The journey is just fine. The engine noise and the splash from the waves are soothing. We will read some of our books. For once, I have not brought a book by Ian Rankin.

17.35 It was cold outside on the deck and we have moved to the galley, dining room, restaurant. Here I have allowed myself an espresso or as the French say expresso and a Twix. Some guys were playing and shouting in the stairs next to us. Suddenly, a man came with big strides. He went upstairs, said something in a harsh voice and came down just as fast with a tight grip around the ears of two boys, (sons?).

18.05 Children are playing on deck 9. We have moved up here. It is an open deck and on the starboard side is visible country. The deck has a closed swimming pool and is located at the top and at the stern.

Our ferry has a toilet for dogs.

Peter writes down the most recent observations in the ferry restaurant.

18.41 The people around us are; talking, laughing, drinking and eating in the restaurant. We talk and drink ... cappuccino. We have an hour more to ride before we reach the island whose flag adorned with a man who is a moor.

20.22 We have reached today's final destination. We have left the ferry and landed in Corsica. We made our way out of the harbour area by foot and are now with quick steps entering Bastia. There is an ongoing search for our hotel. Why have we not looked into exactly where our pre-booked hotel lies before departure? The only honest answer is carelessness.

20.52 We went to the south of the center because we seemed to remember that the hotel would be there. In the end, we thought we had gone too far and turned back towards the center. We were temporarily lost in the narrow streets, but finally got back to where we started. Now we have found a city map in a bus shelter. We were on the right track, but the hotel is far from the center. In addition, it is raining hard!

21.04 A short distance away is the island's great son and the former French emperor, Napoleon. We sit under a big umbrella with infrared heating. It's time for dinner. There will be burgers and kebabs burgers. What's the name of the place? I think Exky is the correct name.

22.30 The meal, an expensive one, was finished. The large backpacks were hung on our backs and the small ones on our chests. The umbrellas were opened up and we walked several kilometers to Sud Hotel (http://www.sudhotel-bastia.com) in the southern outskirts of Bastia. Here we have arranged with buffet breakfast tomorrow and are staying in room 2. The small problem now is that the bus to the south of the island departs at 07:15. The bus leaves not far from the harbour but a substantial distance away from here. I think we will work something out. Something positive, Christer bought some delicious juice in the Esso gas station next door.

23.09 We're watching TV and a program from Corsica. The language spoken sounds, like the one in Nice, as a French-Italian blend. Is it a French dialect or local language here in Corsica? I almost forgot to tell about the man who was a moor. The Moors was an ethnic group who lived on the island a long time ago. The Moors were non-Arab Muslims from the Iberian Peninsula and North Africa. Now I think I crawl into bed. Good night!

Finally a room, finally beds, finally a life without rain!


Wednesday 11th of April

05.30 It splashes from the shower which I just left. This time it is Christer's turn to soak the torso. Now we hope that everything runs smooth so that we get on the bus. There are not many to choose from.

06.20 We looked for the room key before we went down for breakfast. It was found, on the outside of the door, remaining in the lock. I guess we were tired yesterday. Now we have eaten a great breakfast. What remains before we jump into the booked taxi is to do the final toilet chores.

07.13 Everything went well with the checkout and the taxi ride in a cab with a panoramic roof was quickly over. The distance which seemed like an eternity in the rain yesterday was fast in a modern car. Now we have boarded the bus to a destination on the other side of the island, Ajaccio. It is early morning in Bastia. We have before boarding taken some photos and observed people and a Corsicat.

07.21 The bus has stopped to refuel at the Esso station next to Sud Hotel. What's wrong with the vehicles that we go with that almost always needs to be refueled? Here stands a man, smoking. Is that a good idea at a petrol station? The current petrol price is 1.75 euro and 1.51 euro. So this is for regular gasoline and diesel. By the way, I wonder if we could have had hoped on the bus here? We had perhaps been able to sleep longer and cut down by taxi money if we had known about this.

Waiting for our taxi outside Sud Hotel.

The small bus is the one we're going with.

07.35 We have left Bastia behind us and on the left side seen the football stadium where the city's team SC Bastia plays. We will take this opportunity to congratulate them because they have just won the Ligue 2 and managed to get up in the top division of French football.

08.00 High mountains with white mists and low trees with green leaves surround us. We travel through a beautiful landscape. Above all of this sunshine.

08.34 We have just left Corte or Corti depending on the language. The signs are just like people, bilingual, French and Corsican. The fine weather is gone and of the ride remains about 80 kilometers. Corte is the center of Corsican nationalism, and it is also visible at the writings here.

09.02 The bus drove up for a while but now it stopped. We are overlooking a misty valley. Up on the hills, I see two beige houses. The bus driver is walking round the bus and looks skeptical. I wonder if he will continue to drive us.

09.10 The bus driver stepped into a bus which arrived here and drove off in the direction we came from leaving us and the bus behind.

09.15 The former driver of the bus which our driver drove off with now drives our bus. The rain just continues. I hope the rain keeps the inland of the island.

10.26 Our current venue is the bus station in Ajaccio on Corsica's west coast. Here we can, just like in Monaco, not store the big backpacks. We will have to bring them with us around in the city. Our next bus leaves in four hours.

Place Foch in Ajaccio. On this square there was an open-air market in the morning. To the right you can see
Christer guarding our backpacks.

The boat Vincent in front of the cathedral of Ajaccio.

The sun shines beautifully on the seaside promenade in Ajaccio.

10.53 I'm sitting all alone on a bench in a square, Place Foch. Here in the square is an ongoing open-air market. There are various stalls which are offering various food items. Christer is off and looking for an ATM. Above me, are bad and ugly clouds. Before me is an old lady with a crutch and shopping cart.

11.42 Christer came back and I took a walk around the square. Here I have allowed myself some samples of ham and cheese, really tasty. Furthermore, I bought some chestnut jam to give away. Now we have after walking around in Ajaccio gone and sat down in the restaurant Giolia. We are going to try their daily special.

12.34 The daily special was a pasta dish, spaghetti carbonara in Corsican style. On one wall sits a girl / young lady with a brown handbag. We're sitting on a brown bench. The lady, purse, bench and we are along the promenade. I have looked for a local liqueur in a souvenir shop and decided to buy a bottle later. I will buy it in a grocery store. The sun shines the only lack in weather is the strong wind. The inland rain and bad weather is long gone.

13.52 We remained on the bench and continued reading in our books. Now we have gone back to the bus station and bought a bus ticket. From the speakers, I hear Morten Harket of A-ha singing "Take On Me".

14.14 We had a plastic cup of coffee each before we embarked the minibus to Propriano. An older gentleman on the bus lacks his lower lip or just exposed his lower teeth. Alta Rocca Voyages Ricci is responsible for the ticket and the bus ride.

14.52 The broom blooms yellow in the slopes down towards the road. There are visible black clouds in the skies. We travel back up into the mountainous areas.

15.27 The bus stopped in Petreto Bicchisano and by a house with white shutters. From the house came a man who put his hand in between the shutters. He pulled out a bottle and handed it to the bus driver.

Our bus has completed its task, transporting us from Ajaccio to Propriano.

Hotel Le Claridge, Propriano.

16.14 The little bus stop in Propriano and we stepped out. We have reached the south-western part of Corsica. I do not know if there are the hills or what, but the trip made us dull. Now we have perk up and checked into the Hotel Le Claridge (http://www.hotel-claridge-propriano.com) Our room number is 12. The balcony has a shutter, press the button to the right of the shutter and it goes up. We must, according to the papers for the ferry trip, be there at least 2 hours before departure. This means, if it is true, that we must be there at 05:30. We have to check. Our key ring has a code, 50999. It is the code for the entrance door.

16.56 We have left the hotel and are down in the windy harbour. The winds are raging on this day. We are not much wiser when it comes to the check-in to the ferry.

17.16 We found a harbour office. It was closed. On the door was a notice in French. I used my knowledge of this language. I found out that all information and check-in is arranged in a house right next door. We went there and asked about when we have to be here tomorrow morning. A shy / quiet Frenchwoman said a little considerate to us to be here at seven o'clock. This is significantly better than the five thirty.

18.00 We have set ourselves on a bench in the harbour. We have once again on our travels been to the store Spar and done some shopping. We bought something to chew on now, something for tonight and tomorrow's breakfast. I also bought me a bottle of Corsican liqueur. It's a bit cold and windy here in the city.

18.37 We are now as several hundred times before in a room that we call ours. We saw earlier today, on the roads to and from Ajaccio, traces of separatist acts. They had sprayed over the French names on some road signs. All you saw was the Corsican. However there is no significant difference between the names.

18.46 Christer's mobile just rang. On the display were a number which began with +27. He answered and was told that the bus from Windhoek on the 6th of July departs one hour earlier than the time mentioned in the booking. The call was from South Africa and the bus company Intercape. It is about this summer's upcoming trip.

18.55 Christer has received a new call from Intercape. Now it was the bus trip on the 9th of July which will depart an hour ahead of schedule. He was asked to contact me and inform me about the news. The girl who called asked Christer if he had the opportunity to get in contact with me. That went smooth. I was sitting just two meters away.

20.21 We got to get going. It's time to get out in the streets to get us a dinner.

The wind is strong in Propriano this afternoon.

The sea attacks the Corsican coast.

Christer is enjoying the strong wind.

Propriano

21.08 The reception and hotel bar was closed when we left the hotel. It is a good thing that this did not apply for yesterday's hotel where we arrived very late. Now we have been looking around among the various restaurants in the city. We took the final decision and sat us down at U Corsu. Here we have ordered pizza and the lasagna of the house. We will drink the local beer Pietra. The restaurant is cozy decorated with various household-related items on the walls. The beer Pietra is flavored with chestnut flour. They do like chestnuts here in Corsica.

22.22 It was a delicious dinner. It took some time to get the bill, but now we are home. It is time for the evening chores.

22.50 We have tried our evening beers, Coloma, flavored with maquis, the scrub bushes here on the island and indeed all around the Mediterranean as well as junipers. We also watched at a football game in, what we believe, the French Cup. Quevilly from Division 3 won the match against Stade Rennes 2-1. The winning goal, which was beautiful, was scored in the closing seconds of the match. The commentators were ecstatic and talked about a historic achievement.


VIDEOS


You can see 121 photos from April 9 in this photoalbum.
You can see 64 photos from April 10 in this photoalbum.
You can see 78 photos from April 11 in this photoalbum.


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