06.28 I just woke up here on Martinique. A moment ago I got a SMS from our old travel friend Roberth. ”4280 kg, 51 cm. A small boy” How on earth are you built if you are 51 cm and your weight is 4280 kg? We welcome the newborn to the world!

08.22 After this morning’s petit déjeuner (breakfast) we will pack the last things and catch a TC (taxi collectif) from here to Fort-de-France for further transport towards Dominica.

Christer thinking about the next destination.

10.39 We left our room and went to a small bus stop/shed. Pretty soon a TC (taxi collectif) stopped. We travelled with it and we´re now by the sea in Fort de France. Now we just have to find the ferry terminal. It can’t be found here in the harbour area at least. Christer has left to find out where it might be. It took some time to figure out how to ride a TC. People switch places during the ride. We think it depended on where they were going or something else.

The waterfront in Fort-de-France.

11.03 Christer learned about the way at a travel agency. Outside of it he saw two men who were quarrelling, one in a mini bus and one in a taxi. Speaking of taxi, we decided to catch one to the terminal though it is a short distance to it just outside the city. We just got there and will soon head on.

11.25 The pre-booked tickets waited for us and we´re waiting to get aboard. We are filling in immigrations cards while waiting. I wonder when we can board. It is quite nice though to be in the shadow and to sit down on a bench.

Prepared for a sea trip.

12.39 We’ve finally entered the ferry (catamaran) with destination Roseau on Dominica. Sure, passport- and security control went smoothly and we didn’t have to wait that long. It was all things put together that tarred on us. The backpacks sure are heavy if you just stand and wait.

13.14 The time of departure struck at 13.00 but we are still in port. Now all I want to do is to head out on the Caribbean Sea. I want to reach a new country and perhaps get me something to eat.

13.31 My wish has come true. We are leaving the port of Fort-de-France. Next awaits a 1,5 hour boat trip towards Roseau on Dominica. I wonder if my cell phone will work there.

14.15 Martinique has disappeared and the catamaran with us onboard it is bouncing around on the waves of the Caribbean Sea. About half the trip is done and it sure rocks.

14.54 The sea is getting more calm and we got land ahoy. Soon we will embark in the next port on this island tour.

DOMINICA

15.52 We’ve reached Dominica, aka the nature isle of the Caribbean. First we had to stand in line to have our passports checked. After that we had to fill in a customs declaration to be allowed into the country. Now we are riding with the taxi driver/guide Peter but we have no local money. Peter picked us up outside the small terminal and he has promised to take us to our next home which is supposed to be in the village Wotten Waven. Right now he isn’t driving at all. The time has come to fill up with petrol. As Peter saw me writing this he wondered if I was some kind of author. By the way here they drive on the left side of the road.

16.11 The landscape is hilly and green. Here are beautiful flowers and scents and sounds with a touch of paradise. Our driver has along the ride among others showed us bamboo, cacao and a plant called "ginger lily". He has also assured us that he is the best guide on the island and has given us two phone numbers in case we want to go with him again.

Our room at Le Petit Paradis guesthouse.

16.28 We’ve just moved in at Le Petit Paradis in Wotten Waven. http://www.avirtualdominica.com/petitparadis/index.html. We were led here by the son in the family. At least we think so. Christer got to borrow a phone and spoke with our hostess Joan who is in Roseau right now for some errands. It is a simple room down in the basement with a double bed with mosquito net around it. Here around the house, are leafy green hills. Birds singing in the sycamore tree, or whatever trees they are. Our home is beyond plain and has no form of air condition or fan. Christer just joked that a fan will be provided by our hostess.

17.43 Our hostess Joan arrived and just provided us with a fan. She has also provided us with useful information. We also tried the shower. The water was cold. I phoned my parents through a company which seems to be called 310 38. At least that is what it says on my display.

18.13 We’ve just strolled through the village. We’ve seen cats, dogs, a goat and some sheep with voices that stretched from tenor to bass. We also saw some villagers who played soccer and we enjoyed an amazing view over the Roseau Valley. Now our hostess just invited us for some beer.

The village street in Wotten Waven.

A local soccer match in Wotten Waven.

19.12 It was a cold and tasty beer, Heineken. We also spoke to Joan´s husband. He has given us a few tips on how to get around on the island. He also told us that it has been harder to find the ingredients for the local dish, mountain chicken. The reason is not shortage of chicken but of frogs. Mountain chicken is a frog. The frogs used for the dish have almost been wiped out due to some skin disease. He also told us that there are some joint venture between Dominica and Venezuela. Now we have returned to our room to write this and also to gain strength. I have begun to detect some hunger. We’ve also noticed a touch of sulphur from the springs nearby. None of these things are pleasant.

The small chapel in Wotten Waven.

21.08 We’ve just had some delicious local food, turkey, rice, shredded vegetables, mixed beans and dressing. To this we had some lime lemonade. During the meal we heard songs from the chapel and the crickets. It took us a while to locate all the "Hallelujah, praise the lord-calls" to the small building on the other side of the road. As we dined we got a visit from the red haired cat of the house. We decided to go for a walk after the meal. A short rainfall made us seek shelter by the village school. There Christer had some hiccups that kept going for a while. Now the rain as well as the hiccups has stopped. Next we will make plans for tomorrow.

Friday 29th of June

07.30 I started the day by hitting the shower. It hit back with its cold water. This sure woke me up and made me eager to check my name day present, a lottery ticket. I scratched it and won around $4. I can hear voices from outside our apartment and also a rooster.

08.09 Toast, passionfruit juice, coffee, marmalade, butter and fried egg. This was our delicious breakfast. We have been surrounded by singing birds, a cat and a hummingbird.

Peter in our basement apartment.

08.37 We are on our way to the capital Roseau. We are sitting on our host Janon and hostess June´s pick-up. Right now some crates with empty bottles are being loaded onto the vehicle. The bottles are from their restaurant Tia’s.

09.04 We are sitting with sore and tender leg muscles on a bench down by the sea. It was a quick ride down here. Now we need to take it slow and relax. I guess we will stroll around the town, buy postcards and other “useful” things. The view we have is amazing, steep mountains close to the sea south of the town.

09.53 We’ve walked around and bought postcards and souvenirs. Now we just returned to our bench. It is a sunny day and hardly any balmy breeze.

10.23 We’ve entered Cocorico Café. Here we will order a Kubuli each. It is the local beer. Next it is time to write some postcards.

11.20 After we had visited the post office, cool, we decided to head for a new place. On our way there we are taking a bench break on a new bench. Down by the water front a man seems to be argueing with himself. He screams and waves his arms; he might be talking to some invisible gnomes. Whatever it is it sure makes him angry.

Roseau

12.29 We are back where it all started. That is the bench we found this morning. We have been to an internet café and contacted the world around us. On our way back here we passed a store which played and sold reggae music. It sure feels tempting to buy something to drink. The big problem is the fact that we haven’t seen any store selling beverages. We have though, met a man who wanted us to give him money. The reason for this was the fact that he wasn't able to do what he usually does. He had hurt his arm and wasn't able to clean car windows. He was polite and understood if we couldn’t spare him any money.

13.01 We’ve returned to Cocorico Café, this time for some lime juice. I guess we will buy some sodas for the evening a bit later.

Christer having a refreshment at Cocorico Café i Roseau.

Bay Street, Roseau.

14.12 We are in a mini bus on our way home. We’ve brought with us three litres of soft drinks which we bought at Wayne feed centre and supermarket. The bus bounce around and so does my pen.

14.37 We are back in the room/apartment again. The trip here which went through the village Trafalgar was an experience. It bumped, lurched and carried on. We passed steep green slopes, creeks and a place where we saw some sulphuric stinking smoke clouds. Next we will have a shower and then some siesta. As I am writing this Christer is showering with shirt and shorts on. A combined body and clothes wash and also a way to lower the chill factor.

17.50 We are heading out to catch the sunset and also enjoy the concert which is given by birds and crickets.

Afternoon walk.

19.22 The birds and the crickets performed their best, a truly amazing concert. It, and also our walk were interrupted by some heavy rain showers. We had to seek shelter under trees, a roadsign with a roof and finally the school again. Now we are on our way for dinner. I wonder what it is today?

"Let us learn the time tables", painted on the school wall.

21.00 Today we were offered fish. This was pleasant for Christer but not for me. I am allergic to them. But I filled my stomach with rice and vegetables. To this we drank some ginger ale/juice. During dinner the cat returned for some more begging. This time on a new level, a new level in two ways, it jumped up on the table. A man walked by on the village street. He was talking to himself and carried a chainsaw. Now we have returned to our room. From the village kiosk we hear loud music. Right now they play ”We’re not gonna take it” a ’la Caribbean.

22.13 The music plays on outside. I wonder what the other villagers think? Christer is trying to find some channels on his travel radio. I have, thanks to the adapter I bought in Kuala Lumpur last year (7/7 2006), been able to charge my cell phone. We wonder what might happen tomorrow. He who lives will be able to tell.

Saturday 30th of June

07.17 Today I woke up by myself. Christer had already been woken by the roosters. Everything is the same and as it is supposed to be. The shower is refreshing, the sound of the roosters and the smell of sulphur remains. What isn’t as it uses to be is the fact that we don’t have any plans for the day.

09.07 We are back from breakfast. Today we got toast, ginger juice, coffee, butter, marmalade and a large cinnamon bun. We still haven’t got any clue about the day’s activities. The room is damp and our fan has stopped!

09.30 The fan is running again. Something or someone had turned the switch by the socket while we were having breakfast. The amount of ideas about today hasn’t grown yet.

11.12 We will possibly and most likely go for walk to get us a spring bath. It is a lazy day today. We need to get going before we stagnate.

Christer in a green environment..

Hello!

12.11 We are on a walk along the road that runs from/to our little village. Around us everything seems to be green. The scents remind us of those in a greenhouse. We just saw a small crab running across the road looking at us.

12.58 We just sat down by a small river on a stone each. We are just close to the neighbouring village Trafalgar. On the other side of the river is a small house painted in the rastafarian colours; yellow, red and green. The water murmurs, tiny fish swim in the water and everything feels soothing. Our river is one of the 365 that is supposed to be on the island, one river for every day of the year. I wonder if there appears an extra river when it is leap year.

13.58 We are at home again. Sweaty and with soft legs but ever so pleased. Sure, we couldn’t find the spring but we will solve that. We did find a small kiosk with a more than filled refrigerator. There, in the kiosk, we bought orange juice and chocolate crackers. The proprietor Brenda shook our hands and welcomed us.

There are many who say "Hello" when you´re taking a walk on Dominica.

16.47 The room temperature is +27° C but the clothes we washed dries slowly here, it hardly dries at all. Soon we will run out of dry clothes. Regular rain showers make it impossible to hang out our clothes.

17.55 We asked our host about the way and also found one of the sulphur springs. On our way there we met Willie who stood on a bed of a car and was willing to give us some tips. Near the spring we met a man who asked if we were looking for a place to "womba". As we hadn’t got the slightest idea what womba was, we told him that we were looking for the spring. We found it and it bubbled a lot there. Hot air came out from holes in the ground. We cancelled the spring bath. On our way home Christer tried to take a picture but a dog got in the way. We suspect that one of the things that amuse people here is to stand on the beds of the pick-ups as they rush down the hills. Everyone we meet here are so lively and cheerful. They salute us and so on.

If you´re taking a bath in this sulphur spring you will lose your skin.

One of the sulphur springs in Wotten Waven.

A small dog followed us along the road.

19.00 There will be no dinner at our usual place. It will be served at the village’s restaurant, Tia’s, which is run by our hosts. There will also be dinner for six other guests. We have no idea who they are.

19.47 We are sitting at Tia’s, a bamboo house, and sip on a rum punch called, Bullet.

21.30 Today we got a national dish, a soup called callaloo, meat, vegetables and plenty of cocoa milk. For dessert we got ice cream. After the dinner we were offered to join a group tour around the island for $25 tomorrow. The other four didn’t want to come along so we had to say no as well. No big disaster though, we already had plans for tomorrow. We will see how they turn out.

Sunday 1st of July

07.16 Today not only my cell phone woke us up. It got assistance from Christer´s radio. The latter gave us news from BBC and then refused to be shut off. We had to remove the batteries.

08.20 Our new neighbours, the group from yesterday, just passed outside. Have they been eating breakfast? Are we next in line? They seem to be from Martinique.

Breakfast at Le Petit Paradis.

09.47 We were next in line. The breakfast was a good start for this day. We saw beside the usual hummingbirds a French-speaking couple and they asked for the way to Le Petit Paradis. We told them that they had found it. We’ve seen them before. They were at the restaurant last evening. We think they are staying close to the restaurant. Apart from the ordinary breakfast things we got banana pancake.

11.19 We are on our way on a trip of our own. We are by the river we stopped at yesterday. I realised on the way here how many different shades of green there are among the vegetation here.

Christer taking photos on his way to Trafalgar Falls.

11.47 We’ve just paid the fee to enter the area for today’s trip. Here we might have a little something to eat later. The road going up here was really steep but offered amazing scenery.

12.03 After walking along a small trail we have reached a small house by Trafalgar Falls, two mighty waterfalls throwing themselves off the mountainsides. On the way here we saw one crab and two lizards, one of them around one metre long (a lizard that is). Now it feels great and we will just enjoy the moment. I am astonished. By the foot of the fall we can see a group of tourists on some cliffs. We will remain on this platform due to less suitable shoes.

Trafalgar Falls (can you see the tourist group on the cliffs?).

12.53 We are back at the start of the trail to the falls. In the distance we can still hear them roar. We can also hear other human beings. Who knows we might even get ourselves some thing to eat before we carry on.

13.34 Our walk back has begun. We’ve bought some juice and just sat down by our break river. The heat is still on and our foreheads and backs are wet. We have melted asphalt underneath our sandals.

14.07 We have returned to the point where it all started. Here in the room it is cool and comfortable. Now we have to get back to normal before we start to study the next country we will visit.

Wildlife near Trafalgar Falls.

15.31 We are picking, packing and planning. What will we need tomorrow and what can we stow away? Is there something we can toss away and how to do to get everything dry?

17.36 As soon as the sun set beneath the mountains we will leave our home. We don’t want to get too sweaty. We are wearing the clothes we plan to travel in tomorrow.

18.50 We are on a short stroll before we enter Tia’s for dinner and consultation with our hostess about transport to the airport.

21.17 It was once again a splendid dinner. I had chicken and Christer had fish. Besides this we also had pasta, cucumber, tomato, banana and beans. The general impression of our time in Dominica is as follows. The room was simple but we knew that as soon as we had booked it. All together; views, the food, the people and the animal life here have been fantastic. A visit here is truly and strongly recommended. Now we both will put down some more in our backpacks. We’ve been informed about how to get to the airport. As we suspected is the best way to go by mini bus to Roseau and then further on to the north.