Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt



Friday 25th of July

05.21 How many times has this not happened before? It's early morning and I'm sitting on the edge of a bed. We have just eaten a small breakfast here in the room and will soon leave. What is unique is that we shall leave the Indies Hotel in Kingston, Jamaica this time.

05.52 We stepped into the ordered taxi. Just as I was closing the sliding door it slid away from me. The driver closed it automatically. He also said something in the communication radio and Christer thought that the driver was talking to us.

06.08 We travel through a morning quiet Kingston where people are waiting for buses or walking on the road to their jobs. The sun is coming up.

06.20 Before we reached the Norman Manley International Airport we travelled a long distance at Norman Manley Highway surrounded by water on both sides. The entire airport is built out on a sandbank in the sea just outside Kingston.

06.46 The check-in was a parade of paperwork. First we had to show our booking papers and passports. Then they wanted to see the tourist card for Cuba and booking papers for the flight home from Cuba. Finally, they wanted the departure cards from Jamaica. At the security check, I forgot to take off the watch. The result of it all was a beeping control followed by the removing of the watch and a re-check. To top it all, I almost forgot my small backpack. After the security check a lady looked at our boarding cards and said, Cayman Islands, which is where we stopover, then you do not need to pass the passport police. In the queue a lady said to her grandchildren that if they had fluids in their hand luggage it would be thrown away. One of the grandchildren then wondered if it was the backpack that would be thrown.

Early morning at Norman Manley International Airport.

08.01 We wait at the airport and have surfed around on the internet and read about a possible terrorist threat on Norway. Apparently, some guys from Syria are about to do something. I have drunk the tastiest coffee of this journey, Blue Mountain Coffee. Now we are waiting to board. What we thought was the escalator to the gate just seems to go right out of the plane, or? We were at least not allowed to use it.

08.14 After the escalator followed walking to the gate so why were we not allowed pass earlier? We boarded our plane and sat down. On the seat in front of me says "Abroche su cinturón mientras este santado chaleco salvavidas debajo de su asiento". It's the classic that we should sit belted and that there is a life vest under the seat. Soon we lift against yet another Caribbean destination.

09.12 We are, after a short hop, a short flight with Cayman Airways B-737/300, back in Montego Bay. Here some are getting off, some get on board and some, like us, quietly remain seated. Soon, the journey continues west.

CAYMAN ISLANDS

11.26 We have a stopover at Owen Roberts International Airport. It is located on the island Grand Cayman, an island among the British islands Cayman Islands. Here one floor up at the airport, we have sat down at the pub/restaurant Hungry Horse for lunch and ordering of a Cayman Brew. Well, we actually ordered two beers, one each. In the passport queue here were some Norwegian citizens. The climate here feels murderous hot and humid. It was like walking into a sauna when we got out of the plane on the runway.

13.07 After lunch, an expensive one, we kindly queued for the security check. We were, almost up front, asked whether we had tags on our hand luggage. We went back to the check-in counter, took two tags and went back. There we were told that it was wrong tags. We went back to the counter and each received tags that read, Approved Cabin Baggage. We went back to the queue, passed the security and passport control. We subsequently passed the gate and now we are sitting on the plane to Havana. We are still flying with the Cayman Airways but do not sit in the same row of seats. Christer is sitting in front of me.

13.14 It was great that it was a short visit here. The price level in the Cayman Islands is high to say the least, a destination for rich people.

Peter at Owen Roberts International Airport.

We have to taste the local flavours.

Cayman Airways at their home airport.

CHANGING TIME ZONE

14.58 The watches have been corrected. They have been moved forward one hour. We will soon reach Havana, Cuba. We fly north.

15.06 We now have Cuba right below us. The island is pretty slim right here as we approach our final destination.

CUBA

15.18 Now we´ve landed at Havana's international airport, José Martí. Just as it was informed that we should sit down until the plane came to a standstill, a young gentleman came jogging in the aisle. There were strict and direct orders for him to sit down.

16.44 After a not so little wait my backpack arrived on the luggage belt. Now that we have arranged with money, both through the exchange of euros in an exchange counter and through ATM withdrawals it is time to go in the pre-booked transport to our next accommodation. The currency here in Cuba is interesting. There is one currency for locals and one currency for us tourists. Ordinary Cubans use the Cuban peso. They work for simple everyday purchases. The special tourist currency convertible peso shortened CUC. It has the same value as the US dollar and is welcome in hotels, restaurants, etc. Some of the notes we received is 50 CUC pesos. They feel a bit big. We may try to get smaller amounts.

17.35 What a taxi ride! What surroundings! What cars! American cars from the Roaring 50's are everywhere and they are mixed with old Soviet cars. Last but not least, what a room we have. It is beautifully ornate; it's high ceilings and has a fridge full of drinks. Our room is at Hostal Peregrino (http://www.hostalperegrino.com). It is a "casa particular", one by the individuals arranged accommodation for tourists. It is allowed here in Cuba since 1997. The hotels are still largely in different ways owned by the state.

19.31 It is now time for our pre-ordered arrival dinner. It is served here in the kitchen of the accommodation.

20.18 This is a really nice little accommodation. What a luxury this is. You just have to go out and sit down at the table which is prepared with homemade food and lots of different accessories, plus dessert. This is arranged for an affordable sum. We have eaten with some other guests. Those who stay in the rooms here or on any of the other two Hostal Peregrino-lodgings in the city can eat here.

23.06 It is, after some general stuff and reading, time to sleep in another country, another capital city and yet another city. I do not know how many it has been through the years. I will have to come back regarding that.

Peter is moving in at Hostal Peregrino.

The two different currencies in Cuba.


Saturday 26th of July

08.21 We have woken up in (when it comes to sleeping), the 74th capital and the 98th country during our travels. It is in the case of places we have slept in over 300. Hey look, this day begins with some statistics. Today we will know what this particular city, Havana and this country, Cuba has to offer us.

08.42 We have opened the window and stepped out on our small balcony. In the daylight, we now see for the first time the street outside where we live. It is fascinating to observe the life out there. Old American cars and bicycle taxis are passing by.

09.16 Before we head out in the hustle and bustle we will once again sit down by a table. It's time for breakfast. It can be ordered here at Hostal Peregrino.

09.46 I have written this before and now I write it again. Breakfast is great stuff. There are Germans staying at the accommodation. We had breakfast at the same time as them.

10.54 We got some information about Havana here at the Hostal and we have split one of the 50-peso notes. We left our Cuban home, went out on the streets and have walked toward Parque Central where taxis and tourists flock.

11.22 Now we're at the roof of a tour bus from Habana Bus Tour. We're off on a trip to see the western parts of Havana.

We are looking out through the window and watch the world outside.

One of our neighbours.

The area where we are staying.

Hostal Peregrino, Havanna.

12.02 The bus journey has begun. We left the Parque Central and have been going along the sea, along the beach promenade (Malecón). We are driving around among houses, cars and people of different ages and models. It´s varied architecture and the colours are from all over the colour scale.

12.29 The trip has brought us out into the Western outskirts of Havana. Various hotels have been passed and there new people have joined. We have also seen the main square Plaza de la Revolución with images of Fidel Castro and Che Guevara on the walls of the houses.

12.43 The bus took us as far out as to the rich districts of Playa and Miramar before we turned toward the centre again. Havana is strangely both old and fresh at the same time, a well-kept city but much is in need of repair, not least some cars.

13.05 Now we have seen a large part of Havana, including what was said to be Latin America's largest cemetery, Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón. It is 50 hectare. Now we are at the café Pasteleria Francesa for a light lunch. It is adjacent to the old Hotel Inglaterra. At a neighbouring table we see an old acquaintance that pleased us before, Mirinda. She is 15 centimetres high and tastes like orange.

14.01 Now we have eaten well. Christer has walked inside the grocery store La Epoca to buy beverages for us. My task is to guard our small backpacks. The little buggers are not welcome in the store. Just earlier as we were about to cross a street the ones in the cars started to drive. An elderly gentleman pointed at us, the street and his right eye. Then he smiled. The message was crystal clear. Beware before you go across the street.

14.33 The amount of groceries was limited to say the least, but beverages were available. To get out of the grocery store Christer had to show the cash receipt. He did not go out where he went in. On the way home, we met a man who asked where we were from. He paid tribute to Scandinavia and wondered if we had soap, toothpaste or a pen. It was to his sons. The soap and toothpaste are in the room but I gave him a pen. Now we're back in the room and to inject fluid on both sides of the skin. It was difficult, impossible to open the door to the accommodation. We finally had to knock to be let in. One reason for the small range of groceries can be that the United States has had a trade blockade with Cuba since the early 60’s. This blockade has also resulted to the beautiful cars here. It has simply not come any American cars here since then.

We are walking along Paseo Martí.

Parque Central, Havana.

Cars of different age and models in central Havana.

A beautiful yellow tree at Habana Bus Tour´s bus stop.

15.56 Just today on the day it is 61 years since Fidel Castro led 119 rebels in an attack against the strategically important military barracks Montada in Santiago de Cuba. The attack did not go so well. Their driver drove the wrong way and the alarm went off. 64 persons were arrested, tortured and executed. Castro and a handful of others survived and made a new attempt a few years later. It is this event that is celebrated here as the starting point of the Cuban revolution. Black and red 26 julio pennants and flags are hung around the city.

16.29 We have rested in our room for a while. But it is enough with the laziness now. There's a city out there where there is more to see.

16.49 After a short walk along the Paseo de Martí, we have entered Cafeteria Prado no 12 for some coffee. Behind me a gentleman has started to play on a drum and now someone has started to play a guitar. It seems like a live band is planning to accompany our coffee drinking.

16.58 The drummer has been joined by a man on the guitar, another on upright bass and as a gentleman on congas. We have also been joined by two cups of coffee. The band is called Quinteto Emanuel. They played "Guantanamera", an old Cuban song about a country girl from Guantánamo in southern Cuba.

17.49 We left Emanuel and company. With joyous step we continued to a ruin by the sea, Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta. After that, we went parallel to the beach promenade Malecón and ocean, it ought to be the Florida straits. The sun sparkled beautifully in the water. The sun warmed on too much and we went home again. Also this time we didn´t manage to open the door to the accommodation. Now we need to learn this.

Lots of Cuban flags in this part of Havana.

A happy man says hello to the bus passengers.

Plaza de la Revolución, Havana.

Che Guevara looks down at the people.

Interesting transport in the Havana traffic.

The large cemetery Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón.

A light lunch at Pasteleria Francesa.

El Capitolio with a small plastic hat.

Beautiful buildings and cars in Havana.

17.58 During a visit to the shower and just after using the soap Christer discovered that something vital was missing. It was not the towel that was gone. There was simply no water.

18.04 With the shower in the right angle it came enough water to rinse off the soap. We hope that it was a temporary lack of water. Otherwise it can be an exciting stay here.

20.27 We had a great dinner today as well. It was an entire table full of dishes. During dinner we chatted with Fabian and his girlfriend. They are from Germany. Now it is time for our classic evening entertainment. We're going to wash some clothes.

23.29 The clothes have been washed and we have read in our books. Now is the end of it. It’s time to visit a bed each.

Coffee break from a new perspective.

Peter is enjoying the live music at Cafeteria Prado no 1.

A view of Castillo de los tres Reyes Magos.

Fishing enthusiasts in the big city.

Christer is resting along the Malecón.


Sunday 27th of July

09.19 The bodies have been given sleep and also hot water over them (yes, the water is back). Soon they'll even get breakfast.

09.51 This is a true prima accommodation. Both the beds and the breakfast are of high class.

10.05 The breakfast rituals are over. Now it is time to prepare us for the second and last day here in Cuba's capital.

10.27 The time has come to soon take the first steps on a stroll through the city's history. The plan for this day is to go to a museum and then pay a visit to Havana's oldest quarter, Habana Vieja (Old Havana).

10.59 We have just made a short walk from the Hostal Peregrino and will now go into the Museo de la Revolución, The Museum of Revolution. Our backpacks are not allowed inside. They must remain in custody. Before we left the accommodation, our hostess Elsa told us that there was something wrong with the lock which we had problems with yesterday. The Revolutionary Museum is located in a truly grand building. It is the country's former Presidential Palace, which has gained a new function.

The big door at the entrance to our room.

Outside Museo de la Revolución (Revolution museum).

You can easily imagine that this museum used to be a presidential palace.

Fidel Castro´s glasses.

Lots to learn about the events before and during the Cuban revolution.

11.15 We wander around in the warm museum and are going from room to room being told the story of the different phases of the Cuban revolution. It is interesting but also a bit monotonous. What is unique are the items that remain, ranging from clothes to guns and a radio transmitter that was used.

11.55 We have, after seeing the interior of the museum, walked out to a small park where the museum´s outdoor exhibition is located. The main attraction is the boat Granma that was used in the run-up to the revolution. It is guarded around the clock. Out here there are also various vehicles related to the revolution and an eternal flame burns here. There is also part of U2. The U2 plane which was shot down during the Cuban missile crisis.

12:34 We might have seen most of the important things this museum can offer, the events, characters, images and objects from the revolution and the time after that. The visit ended with refreshing fresh lime juice in a cafe here in the Museum.

12.52 We have entered old Havana. We have walked past a mighty police headquarter and here we are now on the square in front of the cathedral, the Plaza de la Catedral. A short distance away, we hear a small orchestra. A man has spoken with us. He claimed to be a historian and wanted to guide us here in the old quarter. It was certainly interesting but we prefer to walk on our own. The beautiful cathedral here has like so many catholic churches a very long name, Catedral de la Virgen María de la Concepción Inmaculada. It is also called the somehow easier Catedral de La Habana and is built in the 18th century.

13.11 We have walked further in the beautiful quarters, seen lots of tourists, a Sunday closed fortress, a number of old women with big cigars who want to be photographed by tourists and much more in this lovely city. We have seen the beautiful squares of Plaza de Armas and Plaza de San Francisco.

Christer is experiencing the feeling of ruling Cuba.

A gallery of idiots at the revolution museum. Ronald Reagan and tw two George Bush have qualified.

The eternal flame and the revolution museum.

Parts of the outdoor exhibition at the museum.

Christer can be seen behind the refreshing lime drinks.

13.34 Plaza Vieja (old square) is the name of the square where we found today's lunch place, La Factoria Plaza Vieja. The restaurant is owned by Habaguanex which makes 160 million US dollars a year. 45% goes to the restoration of the UNESCO-listed old town and 55% goes to around 400 different social projects within the organization. Therefore, it is beneficial to eat here. Cuba's regime is notoriously sceptical of for-profit private companies but various organizations that are investing money in the cultural and social projects can run for example restaurants.

14.20 We are eating food in the form of meat in a hanging position and beer brewed here at the restaurant. I am now waiting for coffee and Christer tries to find a smooth way to go home. We need to make a stop for the purchase of drinks before we return to the Peregrino.

15.29 The price for lunch got carried away. We don’t actually know what we paid for. It remains to be sorted out by someone who thinks it might be useful. We do not belong to that gang. On the way home was bought drinks in a small shop, we took out more money in an ATM and so we saw an older gentleman who took a few dance steps with passing tourists. Now we are home for power charging and can say that we walked in Havana. Oh, it was good to get out the door today.

17.40 After sleeping a bit, had a siesta it is time for more drinks. We drink Néctar Piña, pineapple nectar.

20.07 After yet another delicious dinner in the company of a German, one Swiss and two Swiss ladies, we have paid for food and lodging here at Hostal Peregrino. Now we are sitting on our little balcony to drink soft drinks. While waiting for darkness, we are studying everyday life out on the street and try to summarize our impressions and our stay here in Havana.

We are walking into Habana Vieja (Old Havana).

A majestic police building.

La Plaza de Catedral, Havana.

One of many old cigar women i Havana. They want tourists to take photos of them.

Basilica de San Francisco.

Peter is doing imitations at Plaza de San Francisco.

La Plaza Vieja, Havana.

Christer is behind our hanging meat lunch.

The cars of Havana come in all possible colours.

20.50 In the darkness out there we studied a man who "bedded down" his motorcycle with sidecar. He covered over the wagon and the top of the motorcycle with the tarpaulin. Once inside again tried to revive Christer´s travel radio. It remained completely silent despite repeated attempts. We realised that it probably was broken, finito, dead. A final hit on it and WHAM!, music! Everything offered at the different stations are love songs. Watching TV is just to forget. The question of whether we have been in any other country with such a lousy choice, black-and-white documentaries about the revolution plus a foreign channel, from the brother country of Venezuela.

21.33 It is time to get serious for a moment. Now we should read on about our next destination.

22.58 Sleep is pretty monotonous. However, it would be foolish to let it be. It’s like a necessary evil. The day is coming to an end just as this stay in Havana, and even this journal. Soon there will be a new night, followed by a new morning to work in a new journal to write in.

Christer is awaiting the evening on our small balcony.


VIDEOS


You can see 10 photos from July 25 in this photoalbum.
You can see 137 photos from July 26 in this fotoalbum.
You can see 134 photos from July 27 in this fotoalbum.


CONTINUE


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