Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt
Friday 2nd of August
08.17 Drums and trumpets are heard from outside Hotel Soberania (http://www.hotelsoberania.cl) here in La Serena, Chile. It's still cold here in our room. A little heat, no a lot of it is desired. The sun will eventually warm up our room during the day but the nights are cold.
08.47 We are sitting here and are wondering if it will be as usual or will we be surprised in any way at the upcoming breakfast?
09.32 At breakfast, which were served at some tables near the reception, we were asked on two occasions if we wanted milk in our coffee. Another guest sat in the breakfast room. We were as it comes to the entertainment during the meal offered a jazz pianist. Well, not live and on location but through the speakers.
10.02 I wonder if we risk getting milk in our coffee somewhere in the town. To find out more about this, we'll head out. There are also other reasons for going out. We have traveled to La Serena, so I guess we're supposed to see La Serena too. Last night we just moved around the bus terminal, the hotel in one direction and Mall Plaza Mall in the other direction.
10.43 We're out to know La Serena better. Cities look different in daylight compared to the evening darkness. We have walked through the blocks we have between us and the city center. Eyes have been kept open for possible dinner restaurants in the immediate area. Now we have stopped in a small park between two busy streets. It is Avenida Francisco de Aguirre that can be found on both sides of the green area where we are sitting right now.
11.07 Now we are surprised. The waiter actually spoke English to us. Does it show, can it be heard that we don't have Spanish as our mother tongue? It's going to be a coffee break here at Lighthouse Coffee Company. There will once again be coffee without milk, just as it should be. No question was asked either. It's expensive here, but it's worth it. The coffee is good and the atmosphere nice.
13.00 Two mugs of beer are now on our table. Now they were additionally joined by garlic bread and cutlery. This takes place at DiaVolo Beer House. They offer plenty of exciting beer varieties and interesting pizzas. We will test both things. We're sitting across the street from the university here in La Serena. One can assume that this place is popular among students.
18.37 How many hours, days, well maybe weeks haven't we spent on backs in our beds in a hotel room? Although I'm not quite active on weekdays at home either. Right now we take it easy, check out the latest news on the internet and await an upcoming dinner hunger.
Saturday 3rd of August
Are we staying in a room or a house?
Heading towards the city center.
Waiting for the red man to become green.
The social service building is behind the park.
Enjoying the sunny weather.
A reason for visiting Lighthouse Coffee Company.
Christer in front of various photos at Lighthouse Coffee Company.
No milk in the coffee!
Peter is leaving the coffee break.
Catedral de La Serena.
The region Coquimbo is run from here.
Plaza de Armas (Plaza de la Ciudadanía) in La Serena.
A fountain at Plaza de Armas.
The sculpture Poetisa maior.
DiaVolo Beerhouse, today´s place for lunch.
Football souvenirs, good beer and unique pizzas at DiaVolo Beerhouse.
Tasty beers from Cervecería Guayacan.
One pizza but also two.
Iglesia La Merced, La Serena.
Avenida Balmaceda, a street through the city center.
a beautiful tree at a square where the streets Avenida Balmaceda and Calle Eduardo De La Barra meet.
Iglesia San Francisco de Asís, La Serena.
Hotel Soberania. This is where we are staying.
Our photo from the dinner at Casona del 900.
07.36 We have had another cold awakening here in the room at the end of the stairs. Is it today that we begin the journey home or are we just heading for it? The feeling that we reached the end of the trip and are on our way home usually appears when we have about a week left each summer.
08.17 We know what we got for breakfast here but not what to expect. I miss a really big breakfast of the hotel kind. That kind of buffet where there it is unlimited of everything. You don't get too full of what's on offer here at Hotel Soberania. 08.56 After saying goodbye to our nice host, we are now down by the bus station. I wonder how many times I've written the words bus station over the years. Enough about it, soon it's time to buy some food. We're going to buy some sandwiches here at the station. They will become a simpler lunch on board the bus later in the day. 09.32 Everything is purchased and we are ready. The sun shines and heats us up. All that's missing now is the bus. It has been on its way for 24 hours so delays might occur. There is a bus here from the right company, Turbus, but it is signposted with a northern destination, Arica. We don't want go back there again. Nothing wrong with that city, but one visit is enough. 09.36 We have regrouped to some benches with better views towards the entrance of the bus station area. Now all that remains is to wait, the question is how long?
A simple breakfast at Hotel Soberania.
Peter is writing in the journal while waiting for the bus.
09.46 The bus that was posted Arica last time we looked at it suddenly rolled away, now posted with the destination Viña del Mar which is the neighbouring city of Valparaiso. It should be in our travel direction. The bus stopped before it left the station to continue out into traffic away from us. There was a brisk rush to the bus and we made it. Many thanks to the busy traffic. Without it, we wouldn't have been able to catch our bus. What do we learn from this? Do not rely on timetables; keep track of the buses we see with our own eyes.
10.26 The bus with us onboard travelled the short distance to La Serena's neighbouring town of Coquimbo on the coast and has since continued south. Gradually the landscape becomes less dry. It is water in the river beds instead of gravel and dust and a tendency to green leaves can be spotted on trees and shrubs. Will there finally be a green landscape at the end of the trip? 11.02 No certain change in the greenness of our environment so far but it changes ever so slow anyway. 11.44 Park Eolico Monte Redondo could be read on a sign point by some wind turbines. The journey continues free of incidents. We travel along Route number 5. 12.34 Kilometres are added to kilometres. The distance back to La Serena is increasing. Valparaíso is getting closer and closer. Once in the 1990s, I worked with some gentlemen who were from that particular city. Many of the Chileans who came to Sweden during the time of dictatorship originated there.
We didn´t expect to see a mosque on a hill in Coquimbo.
Wind turbines along the road south.
We are traveling through the tunnel El Melón.
13.08 It is now 215 kilometres to the capital of Chile, Santiago. That's where we're going in three days. There this long tour through South America will end and from there the flight home starts. However, we will leave route number 5 soon and go on towards the coast instead.
14.02 We are now in the tunnel El Melón. It is certainly long, 2520 meters but it will soon be over. We see the light at the end of the tunnel. 15.17 Bye Quilpué! The sun shines out there and Scorpions play and sing in here in the bus. Life is good. Quilpué is a suburb of Viña del Mar which in turn is a city adjacent to Valparaíso, today's final destination. We're getting closer. 15.44 It is now time to leave the bus terminal in Viña de Mar. At a red light there was a young juggler. He got some money for his effort, but not from us. We're sitting inside the windows on the top floor of the bus. We now see the Pacific Ocean again. 16.32 It was crowded at the bus station in Valparaíso. Quickly and smoothly we got out of there and went the short distance to La Joya Hostel (https://lajoyahostel.com). After getting information, key and a map from the reception staff and returning information from us and cash and passport from me we then went to room 17. We stay here on two floors, the sleeping places are one floor up. I think this accommodation is the furthest away from home we've ever been. It´s 13 093 kilometres home as the crow flies. 18.02 It's a nice afternoon and evening up here in the loft. 19.24 Not much happens here. We've talked, surfed online and counted money. Not much speed on these globetrotters after a long bus trip.
Peter on level two here in the room.
Christer is trying La Joya´s own hamburgers.
Chica del 79.
20.18 Some speed eventually got us going and we went to La Joya's own restaurant (La Joya Cantina y Sánguches). We just ordered hamburgers and beer. It certainly sounds simple in itself, but it's just so great. Another reason is that they do not have so many other dishes to choose from. I have ordered a Playera and Christer eats the huge Chica part 79. The beer is of the brand Kunstmann.
22.10 The eating and drinking went well. Paying for the feast didn't cause us any problems either. When we would then figure out on our own what each of us would pay, the result was different from what we paid for. We have 15% discount because we stay here and to it added 10% tip. Either we or they have counted wrong. At least we don't get the figures straight. 22.42 We are planning our tomorrow here in Valparaiso. As usual, the internet is full of warnings about how dangerous the city is. We've survived before, and I think we'll do it tomorrow too. If we don't, it doesn't matter what I wrote here.
Sunday 4th of August
08.15 Our room here at La Joya Hostel is a great place for sleep. The only catch is a little stuffy air. At least we have a roof window that can, if necessary, be opened. Today we will not travel, except in our minds. Today's plan is to on foot discover and experience the Paradise Valley or Valparaíso as they say in Spanish. The city is home of about 250 000 inhabitants but together with neighbouring areas there are about 1 million people in this metropolitan area. The Chilean National Congress is also located here after being moved from Santiago during the last years of General Augusto Pinochet's dictatorship.
09.20 Together we have several years at university but that does not help us opening the door from our room. In the end, we still managed to get out. Have we now learned how to open it? I don't think so. If you don't get out of the room, there won't be much of tourism. Now it is time for breakfast! 10.12 It was a hearty breakfast that we got in the same restaurant room that we sat in yesterday evening. Not the buffet I hoped for but not bad at all. We have now returned to the room. It's easier to open the door from the outside. We will, to avoid visits from the cleaning ladies who are on the way, now go out. But are we able to open the door open again and do we have the ability to lock it? We'll see. 10.35 We got out and the man in the reception gave us useful information about attractions and how we can use the various transportation opportunities in the city. Now we are for what time in order at a Starbucks Coffee. This particular one is found in a smaller mall, Mall Paseo Ross. The little we've seen of the city so far has been pretty worn out, a typical port city feeling. We look forward to more beautiful parts of the city later in the day.
Christer is having breakfast at La Joya Hostel.
Peter is ready to leave the room and experience Valparaíso.
Our neighbourhood is not the most beautiful in the city.
A nice stop at Starbucks.
We are walking along Calle Victoria towards more central parts.
Parque Italia, Valparaíso.
11.38 In Parque Italia there is a statue of a female wolf, two suckling little boys and the text SPQR can be read. I seem to remember seeing a similar statue earlier. Didn't we see one in Timisoara, Romania in 2003? In any case, it is a symbol of Rome. Remus and Romulus, the mythological founders of Rome who were adopted by a she wolf.
11.53 We have strolled further through Valparaíso and have reached the next beautiful square. Life goes on here at Plaza Victoria. It is nice to stretch the legs but also not bad to sit down and just watch what takes place around us. Next to us, two retired ladies have just greeted each other tenderly. Behind us is the city cathedral. 12.23 The Lasagna Bolognese that I intended to order did not exist. Instead, I chose to order another lasagne without first looking at the content. As long as it's free of fish, I think it's going to be okay. Something odd is that Christer could order Fettuccini Bolognese. Was it the lasagne sheets that were out? Whatever is true the name of the restaurant is Piazza di Fiori. Bells are ringing in the church tower, wondering why. It's not full hour now. 13.28 The lasagne was meaty, tasty, but most of all expensive. We left the restaurant behind us and have walked away to Plaza Anibal Pinto. Now we're going with the elevator/funicular Reina Victoria that goes from here. The travel price will be 100 pesos, not so expensive. Valparaíso is famous for its elevators that help people get up along the steep slopes. Now we go up against Cerro Alegre (Alegre Hill).
From Parque Italia you can see the typical hills of Valparaíso.
Christer avoided stepping on a dog.
A fountain without water at Plaza Victoria.
The gothic Catedral de Valparaíso.
Peter has just finished his lunch.
Today´s lunch was at Piazza di Fiori.
13.35 It was a short trip up the side of the mountain. When we came up we saw a great view of Valparaíso, both towards the sea and the beautiful buildings up here on the hill.
13.41 Before we sat down so I could write this, Christer got a question about the Montpellier restaurant. Did the woman ask where it was or if we wanted to go there? The hill we are now on is called Cerro Concepción. Near us we have the Church of Catedral Anglicana de San Pablo. There are plenty of tourists here in the city. We hear all sorts of languages spoken. 13.48 If you just sit still and watch the surroundings you'll see a lot. We've for example, seen a couple (Dutch or Germans?), he with a backpack the text Karolinska Institutet on, that is a Swedish university of medicine, a young man playing on a brass instrument, I don't know which, perhaps a cornet and a woman with an empty stroller and one who carried a child. Now the baby is sitting in the stroller. "I was normal three cats ago", it says on the shirt of a passing woman. 14.03 The sound of someone playing a harmonica is heard a bit away. We're at a mirador, that is, a lookout point. It's called Mirador Paseo Gervasoni. The sun shines beautifully. In the iron railing in front of us lovers have attached their padlocks. Its amazing views from here. 14.22 Art hang on the walls. On the table there are menus. The place we are at is called Café Central and we are again by a tilting table. At the order I put the diary which I am writing in now over the waiter's pen. It's nice to sit down for a coffee stop although it would be nicer if we could have found a place outdoors in the sun.
The Reina Victoria elevator will transport us up the hill.
The graffiti filled street Cumming.
Beautiful views from the top of Reina Victoria elevator.
Views towards Cerro Concepción.
The beautiful yellow hotel Casa Vander.
The street Almirante Montt goes between the hills Alegre och Concepción.
14.37 During the coffee stop at Café Central, we heard no less than three different artists denying the paternity of Billie Jeans's son. It was two cover versions but also the original with Mr. Michael Jackson. Then who's the father?
14.51 Now we're going to use the elevator down to a lower level again. We've got a few kilometres to walk before we get back home. Before we came here to the newly renovated Concepción elevator, we have photographed street art outside Café Central. It was bright colours and imaginative designs. 15.14 It's a green man. A guy stands and juggles with three pins and a ball at the zebra crossing. We are ever so slowly on our way home to our local and temporary home, La Joya. It has been a nice day with a lot to see, beautiful views and lovely weather. It has not been particularly dangerous, after all, despite what we read on the internet. 16.06 We're back home. It went a lot faster to get home. We simply took the shortest and fastest way. Now I'm going to wash and we're going to get some rest. 18.56 The laundry will dry and the rest in this room will soon be over. It's time to find the upcoming dinner. One problem is that we do not know of an open restaurant. It is Sunday today and there is not so much momentum in this part of Valparaíso. In addition, our own hamburger restaurant here at La Joya is closed on Sundays. We hope that a Chinese restaurant we have seen earlier today is open this evening. It was closed this morning but should open later according to information on the internet.
A view of Valparaíso port.
Christer at Mirador Paseo Gervasoni.
A dog is getting warm in the sun.
Christer fotograferar gatukonst.
Art in an alley near Café Central.
Is it a self portrait of an extraterrestial?
19.32 We have walked out on the streets of Valparaíso again and have navigated to Calle Victoria. Of course it was closed where we wanted to go to eat. However, the Peruvian restaurant Sazón Nazca (https://sazonnazca.cl) is open and we were allowed to enter.
20.41 At the time of payment here at the restaurant I came to realise that I have too many items in my small backpack. I had a hard time finding my wallet. Well, at least we've had a great meal and we're back home. Tomorrow we'll probably stay here at La Joya for dinner. Then our own restaurant is open again. 22.28 Our search for the next trip, the one I just bought a journal for, goes on. Where do we want to go and can we travel around New Year? What does it cost and what does it give? There is no rush yet for such decisions, but sometimes the thoughts go away towards future adventures. 23.45 There is some opening for the trip around New Year. We have also done some opening of the window in the ceiling. Fresh air flows into us here in our loft. Does sleep get even better with the window open? We'll see.
This is how La Joya Hostel looks like from the street.
Peter is dining at Sazón Nazca.
You can see 56 photos from August 2 in this photoalbum.
You can see 14 photos from August 3 in this photoalbum.
You can see 73 photos from August 4 in this photoalbum.