Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt



Saturday 27th of July

08.49 There are moments when I want a warmer room. This is definitely such a moment. Our accommodation is still called Hostal Mamatierra (http://www.hostalmamatierra.cl) and the town is also this morning San Pedro de Atacama. Today is our last full day in this tourist dense, dry, and dusty town.

09.50 Breakfast, dear breakfast. You can be so much and sometimes so little. Sometimes the very eating of breakfast has required more energy than it has supplied. Right here it is effective serving and delicious food. It's a great start to a new day. The fact that others have chosen to eat here makes everything a little nicer.

10.24 We have to go out for several reasons. The room will be cleaned, we need heat and the tour this afternoon should be paid for to make sure our reservation should not be deleted. In other words, there is not much that keeps us here. But why stay? We've spent enough hours in this room.

10.35 Sun, dear sun, how good to see you again, feel your warmth, enjoy the shine. I'm not frozen by myself and it's rarely that I freeze. But our room has a special power. A room with stone walls during icy winter nights in the Andes leads to severe cold.

11.05 We have, without any significant problems, paid for the tour we are going to do tonight. What is it you can see in the evening when the sun has gone down? Well, that's the thing, what we'll see is disturbed by the fact that the sun is up.

11.39 After paying for tonight's adventure we have mostly strolled around in the city in search of a suitable lunch offer. Everything today will be, thanks to the excursion, a little earlier than usual. It's about lunch, dinner and other things.

Peter is writing down some notes. We are on Vilama street.

Christer is looking for souvenirs.

Tourists are walking through San Pedro de Atacama.

Christer is eating a dessert at Barros Café.

12.09 "Send me an angel", a live recording, with Scorpions, a man at the neighbouring table is talking about Sri Lanka where we were last year and lunch offers on the way to our table. All this happens here at Barros Café, the restaurant that finally became our choice.

13.14 After lunch, we took an alternative route towards our home. It's always nice to see something new. Here in the room it is freshly cleaned and smells good. The room may be simple and cool, cold but the service here at our hostel is clearly on top. Our room is certainly wonderfully cool when it's summer here.

14.17 It doesn't smell that good in here anymore. It is almost tradition on our travels that we manage to change the scent of the rooms we live in. it is not ourselves that spreads musty smell. It's usually the luggage. Let's go out and make something up for a while.

14.54 After sitting on a bench for some thinking, we now sitting on another bench and read in books as well as keep an eye at a football match played on the gravel field at bus station. Something tells me it's not a match in the top league in this country. Some of the players have a match weight one does not usually see on football players.

15.17 The match ended and all players left the pitch without any noticeable emotional feelings. Was it more exercise, practise than serious game? Was it just a moment of fun? Now there are ladies on the field instead.

15.50 The ladies did not play any match. There were only a few players who turned up. Now we are once again embraced by room 2. It's time to make plans for the evening and also tomorrow.

17.20 I had siesta, little sleep. We will now begin the adventure of the evening. Are we dressed warm enough? We're supposed to be outside for a few hours. It will be an excursion under the clear sky. What on earth have decided to do?

17.46 The first stop of the evening will be at the second branch of the pizzeria El Charrúa (http://pizzeriaelcharrua.cl) here at the resort. It is located on the same street but on the other side. The menus are the same. Here we will soon fill up with pasta. Warm clothes and food in the stomachs should ensure that we cope with the trip.

Football on a dry pitch.

The volcano is beautiful today.

San Pedro de Atacama Celestial Explorations.

An early dinner at Pizzeria El Charrúa.

18.46 We were told to wait at the intersection of the streets Caracoles and Ignacio Carrera Pinto at this time. At first we found none at all, we walked around a little more and suddenly a group of people had gathered at the roadside.

18.58 The group going on adventure with Space, San Pedro de Atacama Celestial Explorations (http://www.spaceobs.com), has positioned itself in a minibus. Soon it's time for 210 minutes of adventure. We are on our way to observations of the heavenly kind. What will appear, will it be cold tonight? The Atacama Desert, with its lack of clouds, is one of the best places to observe the night sky.

19.31 A young woman who seems to know her stuff has begun to show us this part of the starry sky. Sure, we've seen stars and other things before, but now it's getting a little extra. We stand outside a tent just south of San Pedro de Atacama.

20.01 After having been explained and shown with laser pointers what we see in the starry sky, the Southern Cross, Jupiter, Saturn, Vega and much more, we will now have to look in telescopes. The woman who shows everything is very good at sharing her knowledge. It's not very warm tonight, but we'll survive.

20.57 Telescopes are amazing things. It's like a reversed microscope. We have seen some of each in the starry sky in different preset telescopes. Unfortunately, there was poor sharpness on Jupiter and Saturn, the most similar on/off button on the computer. Soon we will gather in the tent for a summary. With us on this excursion we have among other things some Germans and some tourists from France and Malaysia.

21.50 It was an interesting and interest arousing evening. As I said, our guide really knew her things and was a skilled educator. Its one thing to be able to, quite another to be able to share it. At the summary, those who wanted received hot chocolate. I didn't want to, so I got coffee instead.

23.11 We crawl under the thick covers and it's time for the last night in our cozy but ice cold room number 2.

In the bus waiting for a star adventure.


Sunday 28th of July

09.15 It's another day of farewell. There is no direct panic with anything. We mostly summarize some of the moments here. How long will yesterday's outing with star gazing remain in our memories? What will we remember most from the whole trip when it's finished?

10.53 It is countdown to departure. We've had a good time here at Hostal Mamatierra but I've missed my own private shower. But what is such a whining about really? There's a shower here. If we lacked one, a certain amount of whining would have been justified. We have also missed heat, at least at night.

11.08 It's time to collect light and heat before we step aboard the bus back to Calama. We are again on a bench among the activities of Parque Tumisa. It's just idiocy to get on the bus with the cold remaining in the bodies.

11.50 Reasonably heated by the sun we continued to wait in the bus station's simple waiting room. From there we got to see another ongoing football game. This time a penalty goal was included in the entertainment.

12.06 The bus from the company Frontera del Norte came as it should and we are heading towards Calama. Wind shaped beautiful cliffs and more ordinary mountains are looking down at us and our bus. Of all the views we've seen this year, well in all the years, which, what do we remember the most?

Peter is getting warm before departure.

Peter inside the bus terminal.

There was a football game being played today as well.

The bus from Frontera del Norte has arrived.

12.45 We are starting to get routine on the buses here in Chile. Speaking of going by bus, wonder how many countries we have travelled with some kind of bus during our travels. If I count on the minibuses, it should approach or perhaps even pass 100 countries.

13.17 It has its advantages to ride a bus compared to driving a vehicle yourself. You can read a little, maybe even take a little nap. If you do that when you drive, it doesn't go as well.

13.45 Easy and convenient, we were transported to Calama. There were magnificent views along the way. Now it will be lunch at Schopdog (https://schopdog.cl), the same restaurant we visited before we travelled by bus in the other direction. However, everything is not the same. Last time we sat inside, now we're sitting outside. You should take the opportunity to get things done when you get the chance. This applies, for example, to filling up with food and drink and, if possible, to remove things that have been consumed and drunk on another occasion.

14.16 We have been accompanied by a dog during lunch. Is it the food or us that attracts? I hope it wants to see us. Now let's look up the office and later the bus station for the next bus on today's trip. Now the dog went, bye!

14.25 It became a short walk to Turbus (https://turbus.cl) office where our pre-bought tickets were handed out. Now this ticket is not enough as long as we are not at the place where the bus departs from. Long legs first, let's walk towards another bus terminal. The woman in the office suggested taxi but we don't always do what people say.

We are traveling through some hills north of San Pedro de Atacama.

Straight to the destination.

Sometimes a beggar looks like this.

15.00 The walk to the bus terminal was longer than we thought. Sometimes you might want to listen to the advice you get. Once here at Terminal De buses Calama we went to the bus from Turbus on which it said Antofagasta (our next destination). It wasn't right. Where's our bus? I hope it turns up. It wouldn't be so good if it left without us. We have also taken the opportunity to buy some water. It is needed after a long walk in a dry climate.

15.14 Our bus was already in place. It had another destination posted until now. After that sign change, we went on board. Once again, we sit quite comfortably. We once again are heading towards new views. This afternoon we're going back to the coast and sea level again.

15.50 It is sunny beautiful weather today but no temperatures that attract a visit to the beach. But what are we going to do at the beach? We're going by bus.

16.53 At a speed of 98 km/h, our journey continues through the Atacama Desert. In parts of it, it rains as previously mentioned less than rarely.

17.41 Our journey carries on towards its end. It's almost time to wear and tear on our shoes again. But sitting right up and down isn't always that fun. Soon the sun checks out. It's about to hide. For the time being, it's hidden behind a mountain.

18.20 We are once again in another city. The bus has left us in the northern part of the long-narrow town of Antofagasta. The city has about 400,000 inhabitants and is an important port for the mining industry. We are now at Terminal de Buses Cardenal Carlos Oviedo Cavada. It is time for us to take out the direction towards the place where our booked beds and other things are located. I wonder where the bus and co-passengers will head.

One of our bedrooms.

Peter in a chair at Hotel Diego de Almagro Express.

The world outside the hotel.

18.53 It was a long distance from bus station into the city centre. The answer to our problems were solved a taxi. We are now in our home here in Antofagasta. The hotel is Diego De Almagro Express (http://www.dahoteles.com) and the number of the room is 410. What a room we got a TV room, three bedrooms and bathroom with bathtub. This is not so little difference to the former small cold room.

19.31 This is, as I said and mentioned, certainly something other than what we left at the former accommodation. I firmly believe that that room will actually fit in our current TV room.

20.04 I do not want to leave our nice comfortable room, but we should get acquainted with the surroundings as well as have dinner. We will simply have to reconnect with the room last evening. Room by the way; it should well rather be called an apartment given the size.

20.19 Now we have ordered meals at the nearby restaurant Bavaria (http://www.bavaria.cl). I wonder how big the pieces are. As far as prices are concerned, I will not mind it this time. Meat is tasty and almost always worth its price. Bavaria is a restaurant chain that claims to have German theme. We do not notice much of it except the name and that the beer is good.

21.38 It was large and above all delicious pieces of meat. We were worth this, and we needed this. Next awaits some cleaning chores here at the hotel.

22.15 It has once again been smooth to wash the clothes we have stood and walked in. I'm not so sure it's all right to wash clothes in the washbasin but how else should we get the clothes clean. Well, clean and clean, they are in any case in my case not quite so dirty.

23.09 Nothing wrong our last home but I prefer to have some space and decent temperatures. Next we will test the sleeping furniture. The quality of the furniture is not as important as the fact that it is plus degrees in this room. No, I'm a little rude to the last room. It wasn't that cold, was it?

We are visiting the restaurant Bavaria.

Christer is waiting for the main dish.


Monday 29th of July

08.29 Our first night here in Antofagasta has passed. We give high marks to the sleep furniture, aka bed. I will, in addition, give a decent rating to the tub. I carry on with my tradition to take a dip in a tub when opportunity is given. Today we will again see the natural tub. It is time to see the Pacific Ocean again.

09.28 What a nice hotel this is. Not only are we allowed to sleep well, it is also offering breakfast. I have been on earlier trips and also this one praised this meal. Maybe the most important thing for me is to get me coffee before the day starts. Why do our rooms lack a kettle this summer?

10.15 Out there, the city and the sea are waiting for us. They'll have to wait a while longer. There is actually another guest here at the hotel. We saw him at breakfast. I wonder what brought him here.

10.46 We stepped out into a partially unknown world. Antofagasta is a big city but not very interesting according to our guide book from Lonely Planet. It is very limited with information and maps in that book. Fortunately, we have Google Maps that help us.

11.10 There are a lot happening here in Antofagasta. Right now there's not so much movement on us. It's time for today's first bench break that will be on Plaza Colón square, not too far from our hotel. A man with a wheelbarrow filled with grass just headed by. Has he been and bought the grass or should he take it for it to be mowed?

11.22 It is nice here on the Square and the environment is pleasant. There is a bell tower here that was brought to the city as a gift in 1910. It was Britain that gave it away to celebrate Chile's 100th birthday as an independent nation. Now we need to move on to new goals.

Christer is having breakfast at Hotel Diego de Almagro Express.

The street Condell and Arturo Prat meet outside our hotel.

The sculpture El Alma del Pueblo on Arturo Prat street.

Plaza Colón, Antofagasta.

The British clocktower on Plaza Colón.

Catedral de Antofagasta.

11.43 The sounds and scents of the sea are reaching us now. That's because we're down by the sea. The waves, the foaming waves, roll in. We spot a ship out there on the roadstead. Did it just arrive? Is it about to leave? Who can answer these questions? We walk south between Avenida Grecia and the sea.

12.11 Since last, in preparation for the upcoming lunch, we have taken aim for a McDonald's sign at the other end of the beach promenade we walk along. We should certainly not eat there but possibly there are other candidates, other eateries nearby. The question we've had is if it's the right McDonald's we've seen. Now we know it is.

12.27 We have been sitting for a while on a bench, enjoying the sun that shines generously today. It is a bit unexpected that the classic haze that usually is present here along the Pacific Ocean is not to be found this day. Now we are going to take aim for a lunch restaurant that we intend to visit.

12.46 There is a splashing sound behind me. It is from a small indoor fountain. Today we have lunch at the Chinese restaurant Montaña China. We have to; once again, rely, on the people of the world's most populous country. There is rarely any major food experience but a safe card when nothing else appropriate has been found.

13.35 The prices for meals remain surprisingly high here in Chile. We thought Chinese food would be cheaper but that was not the case. The return to the centre has begun. It's a little warmer here a bit from the sea. Just now we saw a truck with a small barber salon in the cargo space. I guess it is convenient to move the business where the long-haired are located.

A pet house at Plaza Colón.

Sunny by the sea in Antofagasta.

Christer is walking towards a sculpture along Paseo del Mar.

Turtles in the wall and a boat on the sea.

Peter is enjoying the winter sun.

The hills and the desert can be seen behind the city.

13.59 It's half-time, halfway home. The walk back is so far free from trouble. Now we take a short break in the northern part of the pleasant Parque Brasil. There are, in addition to us and the birds, some park workers, some skaters and a group of young people.

14.12 We have reached the pedestrian area Manuel Antonio Mat. We're getting close to our hotel again. The circle is closed.

14.37 We are, after an extra walk on streets around our hotel to buy beverages, now at home again in our room/apartment. A large room and the knowledge that we have something to drink make life so much easier for a while.

15.40 I cannot praise this room enough. It is quite clear what we needed after a somewhat simpler option in San Pedro de Atacama. We're planning some more activities in Antofagasta. These are a visit to a shopping mall by the sea; buy a lunch bag for the long bus trip tomorrow and of course a dinner later tonight.

16.30 Having a good time and doing nothing may be considered tedious. But to do nothing is a variety to do a lot and sometimes welcome.

17.19 Even the calm must at some point be put into motion. There's a little of each we have to deal with. There are things we have not yet had time to see. Plus, if I get coffee, it's only a plus. Might they have a Starbucks in this city? The information we have suggests the opposite although we have been misinformed before.

18.01 Behind and beyond the shopping mall Mall Plaza Antofagasta (https://antofagasta.mallplaza.cl) we have seen the sun descend towards the cloudy horizon. In addition, we have seen some sky riders, also called birds. Some of them were pelicans. Inside Mall Plaza we have ordered coffee from one in Le Coin's staff.

Peter is having a lunch at Montaña China.

A mobile hairdresser.

Parque Brasil, Antofagasta.

The pedestrian street Manuel Antonio Matta.

The harbour area in Antofagasta.

A beautiful sunset behind Mall Plaza.

19.52 We went home from Mall Plaza and left the small backpacks in the room. This was done in order to go shopping. Too often over the years, we have been prevented from going into grocery stores since we had the backpacks with us. Nowadays we do the shopping without them, so we don't have to think about that detail. Now that this is done, we will soon go out again. We're going to shop at Tottus, a shop across the street.

20.38 Damn we are becoming like cuckoo clock cuckoos. Time to go back out. By the way, is there anyone who has a cuckoo clock today?

20.53 New evening, new meal and a new restaurant. Tonight's dinner will be at Raconto; a nice restaurant around the corner where we live. Sometimes it's good to have a short distance to the food.

21.57 Once again we are pleased and satisfied. I treated myself to tasty meat while Christer took pasta. Now we will do some preparing work but also sum up the day that has passed.

22.35 A thing I've come up with, summed up since last is that I feel so much better at sea level than a few thousand meters up. After all, there is no fault with more heat and more oxygen in the air.

23.50 On our room TV, the channel VH-1 plays all kinds of music. We check out various options for the upcoming New Year's trip. It's about being out in good time. If it will be as planned is of course not sure. At least thinking and plan is free.

Afternoon coffee at Le Coin in Mall Plaza.

We are counting our Chile coins.

Dinner at Raconto restaurant.


VIDEOS


You can see 19 photos from July 27 in this photoalbum.
You can see 27 photos from July 28 in this photoalbum.
You can see 72 photos from July 29 in this photoalbum.


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