Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt



Thursday 27th of June

08.48 We have woken up in our room at Casa Urbana hotel (http://www.casaurbanahotel.com) here in Córdoba, the second largest city in Argentina. Weather sites on the internet have let us know that it is +2°C outside. It is, in other words, real winter temperature. We don't want to go out there. Not now, anyway. First, we'll make use of the breakfast offer here at the hotel.

09.40 It was a breakfast to write home about. We got freshly baked bread, freshly squeezed orange juice, tasty toppings, flavourful marmalades and delicious coffee. In addition, there was a breakfast hostess who helped us. Now we are ready for everything, before the next coffee stop that is.

10.02 Inside our room the TV is turned on. Looks like it is some local channel that we're looking at. At least there are pictures of the city and people are being interviewed. The subject of the day is sexual harassment. It is perceived to be a problem for women to hear inappropriate comments as they walk around the city streets. According to the channel, it is now +5°C here in Córdoba. Soon there will be shorts weather.

10.41 There is not much structure in the day so far. What we know is that we need more Argentine pesos and that we need to get out of our comfortable room. In 24 hours, we'll be on our way from here. We need to catch up with a little of each before that.

10.50 We have defied the cold and the lethargy. We have made our way out of the hotel and walk west along Avenida Presidente Arturo Umberto Illia. Today's first goal is a coffee break. It's almost 11.00.

This day started with an excellent breakfast.

We are out on the streets of Córdoba.

The beautiful church Iglesia de los Capuchinos.

Avenida Hipólito Yrigoyen, Córdoba.

Paseo del Buen Pastor.

Peter is visiting one of the Starbucks locations in this city.

11.08 We have passed various streets and crossings in Cordoba's more modern neighbourhood and have just stopped at Iglesia del Sagrada Corazón Padres Capuchinos. A shorter name for this beautiful building is simply Iglesia de los Capuchinos.

11.23 Near the church is the Paseo del Buen Pastor. It is a culture centre that has previously been a women's prison. In front of the building there is a large fountain. Here we have sat down to rest for a while. The sun has begun to warm up the air to more pleasant temperatures now. A bit away is Starbucks Coffee. We'll be there soon.

11.36 Tragic! Our long-awaited coffee stop has been postponed. The Starbucks Coffee we've been looking into turned out to be small, crowded and lacked vacant seats. We now take aim at another branch further down the centre.

12.03 Since the last note, we have mostly walked, explored and searched. Mostly we've been looking for restaurants that could be candidates for dinner tonight. We have passed the main square Plaza San Martín which we shall see more of later today. We have also seen an abandoned television camera that filmed the feature of sexual harassment this morning. We recognized the location. Now we hear nice music and enjoy coffee with pastries at Starbucks at 25 de Mayo 66. We sit outside because it was insanely warm indoors. We began to sweat already when we ordered at the checkout. When and where will the next Starbucks stop on this trip? It remains to be seen.

13.00 The moment of coffee ended and we walked for a while on the streets 25 de Mayo and 9 de Julio. A theatre play, a performance or some other cultural act has gathered people a bit away at Pasaje Santa Catalina. Across the street where this takes place, a larger number of papers hang on ropes. On the papers there are photos, names and dates of people who disappeared during the military junta in Argentina.

13.08 It's getting pleasantly warm now. The sun warms well even a winter day. I sit down in front of the city cathedral. From here, reportedly, there will be a tour bus in an hour. More precisely, 16.00 is the time. We'll try to make it.

Santo José Gabriel del Rosario Brochero, a local saint, is standing behind the cathedral.

A cultural event has caught people´s attention.

The victims of the dictatorship in Argentina.

The cathedral in Córdoba.

A late lunch or just a snack? Peter is visiting Coffee & Tea Co.

Seated and ready to explore Córdoba.

13.35 First half of the city sightseeing is over. Now we take a rest break at home in room 27. It's not that we are worn or sweaty. Rather, it is for preventive purposes. Still remains some kind of lunch or snack and hopefully a bus your around the city.

14.27 The rest is over. For more to happen today, we need to get out and get started.

15.01 On today's morning TV we saw a feature when a reporter stood in front of a cafe. At this particular Cafe, Coffee and Tea Co, we are now.

15.12 It was difficult to order here. First a waitress came with a menu. We chose to take today's special offer and were informed that it wasn't included in what you order at the table. Instead, Christer had to go to the cashier and make the order there and practice some Spanish.

15.47 Cheese and ham sandwiches, some chips and juice and coffee were enjoyed during this snack. Now we have bought tickets to Córdoba City Tour for 350 pesos each. Soon we and others will go on a small tour of the city. We travel with a minor red bus of older model. At 16.00, the bus will start.

16.14 The female guide speaks Spanish and only one of us understands what she says. We've stopped at Plaza Italia. One shortcoming for me is that it is spoken Spanish but it felt a bit silly to ask for English guidance because only one of everyone on the bus does not know the language. Christer tries to summarize the most important thing that is said.

Two men on a bus.

Christer and a blue sky.

Plaza Italia, Córdoba.

The tour continues.

Avenida Colón, Córdoba.

A view of east Córdoba.

16.35 The tour goes on, of course. It's stupid to stand still with a tour bus. However, we are actually standing still now. We are now at the church we saw this morning, Iglesia de los Capuchinos.

16.56 The advantage of having a bus like this is that you get to see so much more than what can be covered by foot. We have gone past the University area, the City zoo and seen a nice view of the city's eastern part. We also saw modern interesting architecture down by the river Suquía.

17.20 This tour is over. Although it was in Spanish, I still understood some of the content. We are back on Plaza San Martín and are now walking back to the hotel.

18.18 The way home to the hotel went via a visit to an ATM or quite honestly, ATMs. It took us a few attempts before we could get out the sums we wanted. Now we have pesos so that we can manage a number of more days. One problem here in Argentina is that some ATMs just give small amounts of money.

20.17 It's time for us to gather together. Dinner will be on the table shortly.

21.22 After a long walk we have settled in the restaurant La Perla (http://www.laperlarestaurante.com.ar). Here we start the meal with the country's or more precisely the city's cocktail/drink. Fernet con Cola. Fernet is a bitter liquor drink originating in Italy. After that, it will be the main dishes and a bottle of wine, the Colon Cabarnet Souvignon.

23.07 That was really good. Fernet and Coca Cola had an interesting taste together. The meat was delicious and even the wine was completely OK. I like it better and better here in Argentina. It's also nice to come home to our room again. With Fernet and wine in the body, the walk went home quickly and smoothly. Now it happens not so much more, in any case not today.

Hombre Urbano.

We are approaching the bridge Puente del Bicentenario.

Interesting architecture on Centro Cívico del Bicentenario.

An interesting bus trip has ended at the same place as it started.

Fernet mixed with Coca Cola, a local drink is created.

Christer is having dinner at La Perla.


Friday 28th of June

08.24 It is the last morning at Casa Urbana Hotel. We feel good after yesterday's dinner and the night's sleep. Today it's off by bus again. First we're going to have breakfast. We look forward to that. It is very good yesterday.

09.31 Today's breakfast was unfortunately not as good as yesterday. Now, let's put down what we want to bring with us, at least the things in the room that we own. Before we leave the hotel, we will leave the key to the room and pay for our two nights here.

10.15 Upon payment, a photo was taken of the main page of the passport as well as the Argentina stamp. Arriving at the nearby bus terminal, Christer asked in Flechabus kiosk about which stop is valid for the bus we are going with. In addition, we have bought something to eat and drink for the long journey. Oh, here I sit in my own world and write, the bus is already here.

10.25 It was false alarm, the right bus company, the right platform but unfortunately wrong bus.

10.42 Our bus will depart at 10.40. But no bus has yet been sighted. I hope it's not that late. We have to stand here at the station. All the benches are already busy.

11.00 Slightly delayed, the bus appeared. Now we sit down on our seats at the front of the upper floor. A new and who knows maybe exciting bus journey waits. Today we travel straight north.

Our trip continues to the north.

What is waiting where the road ends?

We are traveling through the landscape called "chaco".

11.25 Today's bus trip with Flechabus (https://www.flechabus.com.ar) is not so exciting so far. We have mostly passed Córdoba's suburbs and now we are going to refuel the bus. A litre of diesel costs 45,43 pesos. It's about US$1.

12.50 Our route along Nacional Road 9 is narrow, straight and bumpy. From the bright blue sky, the sun shines on us. The sky itself is like a huge Argentine flag. Such considerations are made on a long bus trip like this one.

14.39 We pass the time by reading in our books and some snacking. It is good that the buses here in Argentina do not make any food stops. The trip will be more efficient and the buses have both toilet and coffee machine. The scenery around us is getting drier. Here and there is a cactus. We have reached the plain area of South America called "Gran Chaco". The road remains bumpy.

16.39 The sun has now been covered by clouds. It is also cooler in the bus. On the wall of the building we stopped at, says Terminal Loreto. So we have come to Loreto, the last major town before we arrive at today's final destination.

17.19 Our goal for the day is getting closer and closer. Another goal seems to be underway in the Copa America match between Argentina and Venezuela. A match reference is heard from some of the fellow passengers. It will be an interesting stereo effect because the match info reaches their mobiles, tablets and laptops at different speeds.

17.34 There is cheer in the bus, Argentina has scored in the ongoing match. We have also reached Santiago del Estero and now move slowly through the city streets on our way to bus terminal.

It´s five past six. We have finally arrived to Santiago del Estero.

Susana has left us a greeting.

Looking out on Chacabuco street.

18.15 We finally arrived at the saucer-like bus terminal in Santiago del Estero. There was even a separate route only for buses that led into the terminal. We are also at Hotel Coventry (http://www.hotelcoventry.com.ar) and even in room 208. The hotel is a stone's throw from the bus terminal. Apparently, Argentina had scored a goal before the goal we heard. They won the match with 2-0. In the ladies World cup, the United States won against France with 2-1 in the recently played quarterfinals.

19.04 There was a knock on the room door and Christer went and opened. There was a lady who handed over two caramels and two cards where it stood, among other things, Buenas Noches le desea su mucama Susana. Good night wishes to you the cleaning responsible Susana. We will not sleep yet for a while but thank you for the pleasant gesture.

20.31 While waiting for the restaurants to open, we are watching the match Colombia-Chile in Copa America. As usual, there are late opening hours at the Argentine restaurants. Only a few are open before 21.00.

20.38 Things are getting going. Chile has taken the lead with 1-0.

20.40 There was no goal after all. The Video Assistant Referee saw something that was wrong. It was something that we didn't see.

Christer is waiting for dinner at La Ley.

Good pizza and even better Patagonia beers.

A peaceful evening in Santiago del Estero.

21.01 In order to get food, we have walked to the restaurant La Ley for tonight's dinner. Here we continue to follow the match on the restaurant's TV. It's okay here. We're almost all alone in the restaurant.

21.57 It was great with a pizza and a large bottle of beer (Patagonia). Chile has received a second goal turned down by the video review. This time we agree with the referee. We like this restaurant. It is simple but still has style. The service is good and so also the food.

22.36 The game ended 0-0 in full time and we went home to the hotel to see the extra time and any penalties. Once home, four penalties had already been taken. Apparently, they do not have an extra time in this tournament. After ten penalties, the Chilean part of the audience was delighted. Chile had won by 5-4.

23.49 The time has come to say adios for another day. It has become time to embrace one of the last June nights.


Saturday 29th of June

08.55 A morning with clouds and singing birds is here. Today we will get acquainted with what Santiago del Estero has to offer. It must have something to show off. It is, after all, the oldest city in the country. Historians dispute whether it was founded in 1550 or 1553.

09.56 A breakfast without any cheese or ham has been completed here at Hotel Coventry. We have different ideas about the strength and taste of the coffee. Christer was more satisfied than I was. Soon, we'll head out on the streets of the city. We will remain in the city until 16.00 when our bus to Tucumán departs.

10.31 After making up an approximate schedule for the day, we are finally ready. It seems that we will have an hour extra after we planned in coffee, lunch and visits to various sights. We simply have to wait to start. We'll stay in the room for a while longer.

11.31 We have checked out from the hotel and left our luggage to the reception staff. Now it will be city sightseeing.

12.16 It's time for coffee and sandwiches at KUK Café Bar here in Santiago del Estero. When we were looking for possible coffee places on the internet, we found this.

Our street in daylight.

Paseo Alvear, Santiago del Estero.

Christer is heading for our coffee stop.

The San Francisco Solano church in Santiago del Estero.

We have found KUK Café Bar.

13.16 Great coffee and tasty ham sandwiches were served by a genuinely happy young waitress in a thick winter jacket. It's great to see when someone really loves their job. We have a break on a bench at Plaza Libertad Square in the middle of the city centre. Here is a fountain and an equestrian statue.

13.33 Almost next to us sits a dad and blows soap bubbles. His little daughter, whom I named Juanita, is watching. She seems to want to understand where the bubbles come from as well as try it for herself. Next to the Square is the Hotel Carlos V. who was he? Incidentally, it is +15 C and cloudy right now. It's not a great weather but still clearly acceptable given that it is winter.

13.38 We had in mind a cup of coffee and some snacks at KUK Café but it became a hearty meal with ham sandwiches. Eating a lunch after this feels doubtful. Instead, we are thinking about whether we instead make another cafe visit before departure.

14.16 We have, in slow pace and with hopes to find another cafe, been walking around a little here in the city. We didn't find anything; most of it had been closed in the afternoon. We have instead returned to the hotel for a toilet visit and to pick up our luggage. Now we will soon proceed to the bus terminal.

14.25 A voice is now heard in the speakers. Christer is away looking for a café or some kind of restaurant. We're back at bus terminal. We've sat down on some chairs in the terminal ground plane.

14.31 The range of cafes and such is a bit lame. Once again today, we have an hour too much, an hour we do not need at all. The bus we're going with to Tucumán depart at 16.00.

Peter is visiting KUK Café Bar.

A coffee stop became a lunch.

The water fountain on Plaza Libertad.

The independence hero Manuel Belgrano.

The Nuestra Señora del Carmen church.

15.04 To pass time, cravings in stomachs and money, we decided to buy an ice cream each. Christer had to pay 140 pesos, almost US$3 for his stick ice cream. My cone was free. The truth is, Christer paid for both. Ten minutes remain in the match Sweden vs Germany in the Women's World Cup. It is a quarter-final and Sweden lead, 2-1.

16.03 The wait is finally over and we are again upstairs to a bus. This time the company is called Andesmar (https://www.andesmar.com). It will be Sweden against the Netherlands in the World Cup semi finals. The match ended 2-1. The bus host count the passengers again and again. Something's not right. Is it too few or too many on the bus?

16.15 Everything worked out. It was a passenger too much. A young gentleman in a brown suede jacket had forgotten to step off. Probably didn't really know where he was.

17.21 Some small boxes have been distributed to us on board. In these there was a tea bag, sugar, coffee powder and a small pastry. Thank you. The journey goes well and hot water is available in a separate vessel.

17.42 We have passed the spa town Termas de Rio Hondo. There the average age was high at the bus station. The dominant hair colour was gray. The town looked nice and adapted for tourists. It becomes one of all the nice places you do not have time to experience.

18.12 Today's journey goes through farming areas. Its fields with cereals and fields with what we think are sugar cane. In addition, we have also seen herds of beef cattle.

Plaza Libertad in the heart of Santiago del Estero.

Capilla Belén Casas de Dios Puerta del Cielo.

Casa de Gobierno, Santiago del Estero.

Hotel Coventry, Santiago del Estero.

The saucer-like bus terminal.

19.42 We have just arrived in the city of Tucumán or actually San Miguel de Tucumán and is Argentina's fifth largest city. It became an interesting walk from the bus station that is combined with a large shopping centre. We passed several crossings, market stalls and herds of people. This seems to be yet another of the cities in South America where sidewalks and streets are far too narrow considering the amount of cars and people to pass. Now we are in the hotel Swiss Metropol Hotel on the Central Plaza Independencia square. We stay here on the eighth floor of room 805.

20.40 Attempts have been made to find information about adjacent restaurants via the internet. I don't know if we're so much wiser. Maybe it's just as good to go out and do a visual inspection. One thing I know anyway, I'm hungry.

21.00 After a few attempts with the elevator, we eventually came to the right floor. The right button was PB, plant baja, ground floor. We'll remember it to upcoming elevator trips.

21.28 The walk took us around the block and eventually to the restaurant El Molino (The Mill), opposite the hotel. A small girl at a table here at the restaurant was a little sad. A toy horse helped some, a mobile phone did the trick.

21.41 Tonight we drink, on my advice, the wine Finca La Delfina. Not the best of wines but the cost of 200 pesos for a bottle is OK. Now we wait for our grilled meat. We also got a little ice bucket at our table, why?

23.00 The dinner was great and the wine got better with better tempering and less amount in the bottle. Now let's round off another lovely day here in our nice hotel room. By the way, Charles V, Carlos V was king of Spain when Santiago del Estero was founded. Then we got an answer to the question we asked ourselves earlier today.

We have moved into room 805 at Swiss Metropol Hotel.

Christer is visiting El Molino. Time for dinner.


VIDEOS


You can see 85 photos from June 27 in this photoalbum.
You can see 17 photos from June 28 in this photoalbum.
You can see 40 photos from June 29 in this photoalbum.


CONTINUE


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