Text: Peter Johansson
Editing: Christer Lundstedt
Photos: Christer Lundstedt, Peter Johansson
Videos: Christer Lundstedt
Sunday 21st of July
00.12 We would have already arrived in Arica if everything had gone according to plan during this trip. We didn't really think we'd be sitting in a dark bus for four hours. It has both been cold and a challenge for the patience to wait these hours. Now we're finally moving again. Wonderful!
01.55 We have for too long travelled towards our first city in Chile. A traffic accident slowed our journey. The only road from the border down to the coast was closed for a police investigation. Apparently, someone died when a bus from another company drove into a truck. We are happy to be in Arica. Our ears got blocked on the way down here. No wonder why, we've moved from over 4,000 metres above sea level down to sea level.
02.05 The bus stopped behind the bus terminal here in Arica and we went with big step to the front of the terminal where we got hold of a taxi that smoothly drove us into the centre.
02.41 Hotel Amaru (https://hotelamaru.cl) and room 300 will be our first Chilean home. At the time of payment, another card reader was grumpy. It didn't want to accept my Visa card. We'll figure it out somehow. The light switch to the bathroom is next to the door in this room and not inside the bathroom. After eating the packed meal we'll finally get some sleep.
09.11 Buenos dias! We are in Chile, our eighth visited country here in South America. Our sleep, which should have been longer, was great. The border crossing yesterday is over 4600 meters above sea level. We've never been that high on foot. Another record is that we've probably never been to a drier place before. Northern Chile with the Atacama Desert is after all the place in the world that gets the least rain.
10.24 We are in another country and city where you get a hotel breakfast. There is also a saviour up on a mountain looking down at the city waiting for us. Cristo de la Concordia de Arica is the name of this Jesus statue.
11.19 We have left the hotel and have found a quiet, almost deserted city. Sure it is Sunday and time for church visits but we had expected a little more hustle. In front of us at the moment is yet another of the works of architect Gustave Eiffel, in this case a cathedral. The cathedral is called Catedral de San Marcos and has an exciting history. Arica previously belonged to Peru and it was the president of Peru who ordered this cathedral directly from the Eiffel workshop in Paris. It was then sent here. This happened in the 1870´s. Quiet and low-key choir song flows out of the building. The style is Gothic and the material cast iron.
13.05 The rescuer offered hot bread and weak coffee. It was nice to have a minor break on a sunny patio. After all the chilly days at high altitude, it is nice with a more pleasant climate. Out on the town, people go around in cars. They have yellow, red and blue balloons as well as Colombian flags. Does Colombia have national day today? No, at a check, it was actually yesterday. In any case, the country is properly celebrated. In addition, at Parque Carlos Ibañez Del Campo some kind of market is underway. There are many stalls set up and a little by each is being sold.
15.22 On the way home from lunch we withdrew more Chilean pesos from an ATM along Calle 21 de Mayo and well at home at Hotel Amaru we have now finally paid for the stay. Here in the room it is also cleaned. Unfortunately, the towels are also cleaned away.
Monday 22nd of July
We have reached Chile and the city Arica in the far north.
Hotel Amaru, Arica.
Finally a hotel room after all the hours in the bus.
It is Sunday and very quiet in the streets.
Another creation from Gustave Eiffel, the iron cathedral in Arica.
Christer on a square and a man carrying a painting.
Catedral de San Marcos.
Plaza Vicuña Mackenna beneath the big rock Morro de Arica.
Christer is enjoying the sun.
The first contact with the sea on this trip.
The city name together with a symbol of the city, El Morro.
The railway station is now a museum. There are no more departures for La Paz.
The Chilean flag on Morro de Arica.
Calle 21 de Mayo, a pedestrian street through the city center.
Christer is drinking coffee at Café Amapola.
Colombians are celebrating, maybe because of their Nationa Day yesterday?
Mi Casa (my house). Someone wants to find their way home.
Lunch at Pizzeria Lucano.
Peter is having dinner at Café Catedral.
The cathedral is beautiful in the evening darkness.
07.12 I firmly believe that I am more tired this morning. But if I want to experience tomorrow in another place, I have to cheer up now.
07.55 There is a typical morning haze over the sea and coast. Out there, a cold sea current from Antarctica meets a warm air mass, hence the haze. It's the same phenomenon we experienced in Peru the other year. Some days, however, the sun manages to dissolve the haze later in the day. Soon we will leave Hotel Amaru to walk towards the bus terminal. At first we had planned to take a taxi but a good two-kilometre morning walk can of course be a great way to start the new week. 08.34 A refreshing walk through Arica has taken us out to the rodoviario, bus station. This is where we begin the next inland trip. We will now begin our journey south through this long-narrow country. In case we go north, we'll end up in Peru. 08.47 We are, after some trouble and hassle, finally on board the bus from Pullman Bus (https://www.pullmanbus.cl). At first we went to the wrong exit. At the right exit, we missed something called boarding. We were referred to a hatch. It was a tax, a terminal fee of 200 pesos to be paid. Once out of the terminal it was pointed out that the tickets we have purchased on the internet were valid for another type of bus. Well, such a bus does not exist on this departure so now we are on board the vehicle that will take us south to Iquique. 10.17 The landscape around us almost feels as if it were extraterrestrial, on the moon maybe? It's gray-brown, hilly hills. I think we're going on an old familiar road. It's probably the Pan American Highway. We have previously met in Central America in 2011 and Peru in 2015.
We have entered a very comfortable bus.
Views in northern Chile.
We are traveling south along road 5 (Ruta 5).
The dry Atacama desert.
We can see Iquique, today´s destination.
11.15 After travelling among mountains and deep valleys, the landscape has been stretched out, flattened. We've tasted the stuff we've been assigned in a box from the bus company. In three hours, we'll be in the next place on this Chilean trip.
12.17 What has happened since the last time is the fact that we have come closer to the place of arrival. It's still the same bus and the same desert. 13.09 After a short stop in Pozo Almonte, located just south of the turnoff to the Iquique, we are now on our way again. We are now heading west towards the coast. In addition, we have got rice and chicken to eat as lunch, pure luxury trip this. In addition, it is quiet on the bus, few passengers on board. 13.21 Below us to the left, right by the sea it is located, the city of Iquique. Our next stop and home. It's a great view down to the coast line. 14.13 The bus rolled into Iquique and searched for the small bus terminal Rodoviario de Iquique in the north of the centre. We then walked to Hotel Bamboo (http://bamboo.hotelsiquique.com) on Calle Eleuterio Ramirez right in the city centre. Here in room 404, in addition to the two of us, we also have AC, towels, beds and a small bathtub. The hotel is housed in a larger building where there are also some other offices and businesses. 15.40 There are things that need to be done this afternoon. We need to drink some coffee, take photos of the city before dark falls and even get soft drinks to have in this room. Maybe we can even do something more? We'll see. 16.02 It is difficult to get an idea of the city so far. Most likely it is because we have seen too little. At the moment we see no more than each other and the inside of a cafe, namely Agnes Coffee on Calle San Martín. 16.19 Here at Agnes it is calm. The decoration consists of photos of various famous people such as Einstein and Mozart. Behind the counter burns a candle at a photo of an elderly woman. Is it Agnes herself who passed away or just someone in the staff? We have ordered coffee and toast.
Hotel Bamboo is inside this building.
Peter outside room 404.
Famous people on the wall. The guests are in the mirror.
Peter is visiting Agnes Coffee.
A dog is leaving the hairdresser.
17.17 I was reportedly given the city's, the region's and the country's, most delicious coffee at Agnes Coffee. After that we walked around the city for an ocular inspection. Now we know about places where we could have dinner, from where the next bus departs and a little more. After purchasing sodas in a small shop on Calle Thomson, we went home to the hotel. Once again, the card reader is messing with us when we would pay our room. Is my account empty, is it blocked? Does it have no contact with the bank or is it doing something wrong? In addition, we only have to pay when the hotel owner is in place. That's why we didn't pay at check-in earlier today.
18.56 The TV in the room offers some channels e.g. CNN. CNN in turn offers news from around the world. There are continuing conflicts with Iran. They claim they arrested a CIA spy. The conflict with the boarded British/Swedish tanker vessel continues. Donald Trump announces that he wants to mediate in the Kashmir conflict. Furthermore, he says that he can but does not want to end the conflict in Afghanistan. His solution would mean millions of dead. 19.45 We have left the hotel behind us and gone for dinner. We chose one of the restaurants we saw during the afternoon, the Chinese restaurant Chifa Nan-King. Chifa is a concept we recognize from Ecuador and Peru on the trip 2015. If we understand it correctly, a chifa is a Chinese restaurant with Latin American influences. Well, now we have ordered without having full track of what we ordered when it comes to the beverages. 20.46 We have not the slightest touch of hunger. There were huge amounts of good food. It was more than I could eat. As for fluid, we had German inspired beer from southern Chile, Kunstmann. A really great beer. I mostly thought it was wine that was the beverage in Chile but the beer here is amazingly good. Now we are back in room 404 to listen to Anderson Cooper and his colleagues analyze and comment latest news on CNN. 22.24 Don Lemon on CNN looks closely at Donald Trump's statements and tweets. It is not gracious how he expresses himself the president.
PJ outside PJ.
Lots of Asian food at Chifa Nan-King.
Tuesday 23rd of July
08.15 This morning could have got an odd start. I just laid down the plans to enter the small bathtub here in our room at Hotel Bamboo, Iquique. The realization is that I had come down but it is not entirely certain that I had taken myself up completely by myself. Out in the world, Boris Johnson has become British Prime Minister. Today is also the day then our friend and travel companion Roberth turns 46 years old. Here we are considering where the room where breakfast is served could be. The explanation yesterday was a bit vague.
09.31 Upstairs there was a room with table set and a service minded young lady who came to our service and served bread. It was breakfast but no foundation that lasts until sunset. From the breakfast room we had a nice view of the city. 10.21 Before exit from the hotel we asked again if it was possible to pay. It didn't go well. Payment is made only to the owner, the man we met yesterday. He wasn't in place right now. However, we are in place at the square Plaza Arturo Gates. I guess this is as central it can be here in Iquique. A house here says, Hrvatski Dom, Club Croatia. So there is a Croatian club here in northern Chile. Maybe that's not what you expect. Weather wise, the haze of the Pacific has swept in for sure this day. It feels a little chilly and autumn-like. Well, actually, it's in the middle of winter. 10.54 After I bought souvenirs in a small market along the pedestrian street Baquedano, we have continued along the street towards the sea. Unfortunately, it remains windy weather and haze. A group of senior citizens enters into a bus by the statue of Arturo Prat at Plaza 21 de Mayo. We hope they have fun and enjoy their journey. Arturo Prat as we mentioned twice is, by the way, one of Chile's National Heroes, a naval officer and lawyer who died in the Battle of Iquique in 1879.
Christer is having breakfast at Hotel Bamboo.
The inside of our hotel building.
Plaza Arturo Prat, Iquique.
Torre del Reloj (Clock Tower) at Plaza Arturo Prat.
In Iquique there is a Croatian club.
Warning for tsunami.
11.35 Pacific waves are rolling onto the shore. Surfers ride on the waves. However, it is far too chilly for some to swim and enjoy it. Some other people take it more calmly and practice yoga. We however sit on a bench and think about the upcoming coffee stops and when we are going to have lunch today. We have strolled along the beaches south of the city centre among them Playa Cavancha.
11.58 Now we are on our way out of the map in the guide book. No coffee in sight. However, we see a child on the shoulders of an adult. Maybe it's just as good to turn back towards more central parts of the city. After all, we are not going to go into Dreams Iquique, the casino that is here where we stand, nor to the hotel Hilton Garden Inn or football stadium Estadio Cavancha. 12.45 The beach promenade was walked in the other direction and then we also went along the pedestrian street Baquedano in the other direction. Now we sit on the outdoor terrace to the Bulldog Sport Bar. Soon there will be lunch here. We have reached an affordable lunch offer consisting of milanesa (schnitzel) with sides. 14.17 We got salad as appetizer, a main dish consisting of two schnitzels with rice and for dessert it became ice cream. It's a good lunch there. In addition, the service was excellent. It is also nice to sit by a pedestrian street and observe everyone who passes by. Now we are hastily at home in our hotel room.
It is forbidden to climb the llama in the souvenir shop.
Baquedano is the name of this pedestrian street in Iquique.
Anyone interested in fruit on a cold day?
A tourist bus has stopped at Plaza 21 de Mayo.
Christer in front of the Pacific Ocean.
Tall buildings on Cavancha peninsula.
16.01 We have made a hastily stop in the room. Well, I guess it wasn't that fast. It is easy to slow down, be lazy and get stuck in a hotel room. Now it's time to go out again. We want to see a little more and do some more here in Iquique before it gets night and dark.
16.41 At last we have paid for our room. It should be stated that you pay by credit card, not debit as I have done before. When paying with an international card, one should apparently always claim that it is a credit card, whether it is it or not. Now we wait for the time to be 17.00. That's when the intended coffee place opens. We changed the order of our stops today. First there was lunch and now soon coffee. This is due to the lack of found cafes or cafes with less suitable opening hours. 16.54 Sometimes the minutes go slow. We have strolled on various streets, sat on a bench outside Bernardo O'Higgins School and done some other things too. It's not yet 17.00, but soon. 17.12 The wait was not in vain. Cafeteria Muselina has now finally opened. We sit in the draught from the window and wonder how big the coffee cups and cake pieces are. The decoration is really special. Here they have collected all sorts of gadgets and signs.
A nice beach but water is very cold.
A red flag means no swimming.
This fish eats plastic bottles.
The city name near Playa Cavancha, a popular spot for photos.
Lunch at Bulldog Sport Bar Baquedano.
18.19 I got a big piece of cake and Christer an even bigger one. There is a limit when a piece of cake is no piece of cake and not delicious anymore, just annoying to eat up. As for the coffee cups, they were just as big as we wanted. Before we returned to the hotel and the room we were into a small bakery and bought travel beverages for our bus trip tomorrow.
20.20 Just a short distance from the hotel, about a hundred metres away, is the Schopdog restaurant. It and a group of other restaurants can be found at a lower level here on Plaza Condell square. Here we sit in a sofa of artificial leather each. Schopdog (http://schopdog.cl) is a restaurant chain that is found a little everywhere here in Chile. They have been around since 1987 and serve some simpler dishes that are still not fast food. They also have beer. 21.12 We got just enough food and a great beer. Now we have a balance in the stomachs and the economy. Time for some CNN here in the hotel room. It's becoming a tradition. 22.29 CNN mainly monitors the upcoming report by Roberth Mueller. He is appointed special investigator (special prosecutor) of the issue of possible involvement of Russian interests in Donald Trump's campaign during the 2016 presidential election.
A nice atmosphere at Cafeteria Muselina.
Christer´s piece of cake is larger than the cup of coffee.
Schopdog, a chain of restaurants in Chile.
Dinner just before closing time at Schopdog in Iquique.
You can see 56 photos from July 21 in this photoalbum.
You can see 24 photos from July 22 in this photoalbum.
You can see 67 photos from July 23 in this photoalbum.