08.05 Just woke up and are ready to face the new day. After some water has passed over my body it is time for breakfast. After that we will talk to the persons in the reception. They will arrange with transport to the Israeli border. But no need to plan ahead. Time for a shower.

10.00 After a short, intensive and very local moment of rain (shower) we head off for the breakfast table. Beside the classic stuff today we got sweet freshly made orange juice. Within the next hour we will gather our stuff.

10.29 OK, all is packed and we are ready. Time to gain power both mentally and physically. On to the lift down to reception and a taxi to the border. We´d better ask the driver how much he wants. We don’t have that much Jordanian money left.

11.04 We checked out and sat down in some armchairs. It is now time to head for the taxi.

Aqaba centre. Good bye Jordan for this time...

11.27 On our way out of Jordan. At first we believed we were all alone here but suddenly a man put out his head out of a window and called for us. We just filled in new cards. They seem to be for leaving and entering. Next we will walk by foot into Israel. Last time we walked across a border was as we walked from Slovakia over the Danube and into Hungary in 2003.

12.20 We passed a rigorous security control. At first there were questions about us. The young lady in question wanted to know a lot about us. She also pointed at Christer and asked if “that” belonged to him. What was “that”?? we wondered before we saw the green cricket which sat on Christer's foot. The cricket had to get off. More questions followed and soon the little green one had returned to Christer’s foot. These creatures seem to have special feelings for Christer (31/7 2004). We left the cricket behind and went to have our luggage x-rayed and unpacked. As Christer passed the metal detector it beeped. He had to remove his sandals and all went fine. What in the sandals might be of metal? Time to fill in yet another entry card. After that it is just to show the passports and enter Israel. I forgot this. On our way to the security control we met a bearded man who murmured that Israel was a bad country. He said he preferred Jordan.

12.35 The young lady in the counter of the passport office looked at our passports, saw our Syrian visas and called for a man. He doesn’t look that happy. What will happen now?

13.35 We´ve both been questioned by the bitter policeman. He wanted to know about our stay in Syria. When did we get there?, had we spoken with any Syrians and what had we done there? After this followed several more questions. He even looked in the travel journal and wondered in what language it was written. He kept our passports and aeroplane tickets.

13.55 Since the last entry we been passed by; a Spaniard, two Spanish women, two gentlemen with a backpack each and a red guitar. They all passed without any problems.

14.28 Still on the bench. This is this year´s.... no the all time bench rest. Not a shred of life at the passport office. Here on the bench it is +38° in the shadow and not much wind.

14.32 A LARGE group of people just entered the building for security control. Are they the last of the Israelites who left Egypt with Moses? Just kidding, but I begin to understand why it took Moses 40 years to enter he Holy land.

15.10 Almost everyone in the company, that turned out to be Koreans, has entered their Israeli bus. Behind them they left a baggage trolley, two grapes and a bottle of water.

15.32 A young lady just came out of the house of the passport police and said she was sorry that we had to wait for so long. She hoped everything would get solved soon and we will be able to get into the country. The bus with the Koreans still remains. I wonder why?

15.35 Out from the security control it just came two more Koreans. Some of them must have been checked thoroughly. In our case, nothing new.

15.48 Just as we thought we had seen the last of them..... more Koreans came out of the white house. We are going nowhere.

15.53 Once again questioned by security personal. Another young lady has asked us about where and for how long we will remain in Israel. We had to show her our guidebook over the Middle East so she would know where we were about to seek location for the night. The planned visit to the Red Sea this afternoon seems to be no more. The bus is leaving. Good-bye Koreans, you left smoothly.

15.57 The Koreans might have left us but behind them they left their water bottle. I wonder if water ever tasted so good.

16.09 We moved indoors. We´re sitting in an air-conditioned room. The man that showed us here is some kind of boss, most likely at the customs office. He wondered when we came to the border and we told him that we came here 4 hours ago. Now he has left to get us coffee and tea and also to check with the passport police.

ISRAEL

16.41 Everything is solved. We got our warm beverages, got our papers, changed money, got into Israel and arranged with a taxi. We are currently sitting in that taxi and it is driven by a man with sunglasses and dreadlocks.

16.51 On our way to check in at Spring Hostel in Eilat. The toothless man in the reception wondered if it was Ok to wait for a short while? A short while is OK. This seems to be the day of waiting.

17.22 We are up in the room, number 25. Our new home does not have breakfast included but they´ve got a swimming pool. It is time for a shower; buy fluids and a visit to the pool. We are living next to Fawlty Towers hostel/motel.

Fawlty Towers (Pang i bygget) Motel i Eilat, alldeles bakom vårt hem, "Spring Hostel"

20.00 We went to a store to buy evening drinks, breakfast and travel snack. Before I was let into the store a security woman checked my little backpack. She didn't check on by body for things. In the store Fanta, juice, bread, sponge cake and evening beer was bought. All of this cost around $ 7. Back home it was time for the pool. Not much of a pool but still time for some swimming and relaxing. Next we plan our budget before we head out for dinner.

Eilat

21.02 We withdrew money and are ready for dinner. We have sat down at Eilat Mixed Grill. I choose a dish that share name with the place and Christer went for kebab. By the table next to us are some Swedes, cocky guys from Stockholm. We don’t want to speak with them.

21.40 The food was Ok and it stopped the hunger. The owner of the place has asked some guys that brought their own beverage to leave. Next we will finish the meal, pay and walk home.

22.13 We discussed with the owner about the outcome of tomorrows soccer game between Maccabi Haifa and Malmö FF. We guessed the final score, paid and said good-bye. We are now since a while back in the room. Christer has joked that candy he bought must be kosher. He just took a close examine of the bag. OK, I guess this is the years when jokes come true. The candy is authorised by the rabbis of Nazareth. It IS kosher candy. I wonder how things are with my beer?

23.36 Time to go to bed after a day of many things. A lot has happened today. More than I ever could have imagined. It will be great to get some sleep before more adventures will take part tomorrow. The beer bye the way, that showed no sign of kosher, was all but tasty. It was dark, tasted like bread and was hard to drink.

A view from Eilat towards the Jordanian mountains at the horizon. So close but yet so many hours.

Wednesday 3rd of August

07.14 It is cool in the room. Almost too cool. Still I got to get out of the bunk and prepare for the trip into Africa. Today we will go across the Sinai Peninsula and into Egypt.

08.11 There has been a knock on the door. It was a man who wished us a good morning and wondered if we had plans to check out today. As this was the case he informed us that check out time before 09.00.

09.02 Everything is OK so far. We checked out, went to the bus station nearby, asked about the bus to the border, went to gate 7 and took bus 15 at a cost of 6.40 shekel ($ 1.50).

Taba, Egyptian border control.

10.14 We had no problems to get out of Israel. But problems had a man who was commanded to sit and wait on a bench. Yesterday it was us, today it is his turn. We paid tax for leaving the country at 70 shekel ($ 16.50) and went on to the Egyptian security control. There our baggage was x-rayed. As we were checked by a metal detector it beeped and we stopped. Carry on! the man said. The beep means it is OK. Christer had to prove his origin by telling a man in which teams the football players Tomas Brolin and Henrik Larsson had played. Next stop was the passport control. Christer was stamped out in the blink of an eye. My passport police went through my passport with a loupe and a fine toothcomb. We went on to the final control. There we had to turn back. Christer's passport was stamped only to be valid on the Sinai Peninsula. Now we are in a taxi about to take us to Cairo around 300 kilometres away.

EGYPT

10.48 The taxi travels through a valley. The road goes between eroded cliff formations.

11.12 There are fewer cliffs, more flat, dry and sandy. We just passed the latest security control without any problems and as soon as the car has got petrol we will carry on.

12.15 We stopped at Sandy’s Inn, a modern oasis in the middle of the Sinai desert. We believe that we are in or close to the town An Nakhl. Here we sat down in a sofa. Apparently a little too close to some small child’s doll. The little one just came and got it and walked to an elderly woman.

12.27 Christer is drinking Pepsi, the driver chose tea and I have tried this day’s first cup of coffee. Well cup and cup, it was served in a small glass. Here are two sofas, some tables and chairs, a bar counter, a bed and a low table with pillows around it. The girl that served us wanted 10 Egyptian pounds ($1.70) for it all.

12.34 Just as we were about to leave two persons from Sandy’s Inn got in. It was the girl who served us and a small boy. Were they included in the price or? No they just wanted to ride with us for a short while. Time for more petrol. Does the car have a small tank or is it thirsty?

13.38 We just made a stop in the middle of nowhere. Our driver has been under the car. Is there a problem with it? A shortage of oil or a risk it might boil? We were travelling in speeds at around 130-140 km/h (81-87 miles/h) for a while.

13.58 We just saw a ship coming through the desert. It came on the Channel of Suez. The very same channel that we are tunnelling under in the Ahmed Hamdi tunnel. We just came out on the other side and here it seems to be time for exchanging of taxis. Before that we will just pay for our ride. It will be $ 50 each.

14.05 Ok, we got, a new continent, new car, new driver and hopefully not a new payment. We came to Asia over a bridge and left it via a tunnel.

15.01 We barely got 50 kilometres left to Cairo, the eighth capital on this trip. Things are getting greener around us. Grass and trees in the area between the driveways. Here and there are pillars with advertise.

16.02 We reached Cairo, we made it, and we are all but alone in town. Our excellent driver has managed to move between countless of cars and I was pretty sure we would hit one of them. He brought us to the street where our hotel is situated and pointed in the right direction. We thought he had deserves a tip and now we will head for our next home.

The entrance to King Tut Hostel at the 8th floor and the view from our balcony towards downtown Cairo.

16.45 We are sitting in room 810 at King Tut Hostel in Cairo. The second to last pre-booked place on this trip. To get here was an adventure in itself. Just as we reached the right address we met a man with low toothpaste costs. At first he opened the door to the lift. Suddenly he asked us, have you paid for the room? We said we hadn’t and all of a sudden the hostel became full but he knew of another place. A place with the same owner. A place that this owner had asked this man with few teeth to take customers to. We hesitated but followed him some house down the street. The place was, although the man claimed it was, far from new. New places don’t tend to have name signs that have faded. We told him that we would take a look at the first place and come back if it really was full. As soon as we found a working lift we went upstairs. There we got signed in. We told them about the lying man. They smiled and asked us, "First time in Egypt?" Here we will remain for three nights at a cost of 81 pounds ($ 14).

20.35 After that we had washed our bodies and clothes we just relaxed. Onto that we went to pay for the room and to find a place to eat. Our culinary walk brought us to Peking, a cosy Chinese restaurant. Soup and then noodles with beef is ordered. To walk the streets of Cairo by night is far from easy. Narrow, narrow and ever so narrow at the pavements. If you wish to cross a street, do it together with several Egyptians so that they will take the hit from the car that might run into you. In the middle of this chaos are people standing and selling stuff and policemen try to control the traffic. Unless we will need it we will avoid long walks here.

Peter at the street outside our home in Cairo.

22.03 Home again after a pleasant meal at "Peking" it was ended with caramelised pineapple for me and banana prepared in the same way for Christer. Now we will slow down our speed before we decide to catch some hour’s sleep. On second thought it will be several hours.

22.34 You can tell that the autumn is around the corner. It is just +34° out there.

Thursday 4th of August

08.30 I just got out of bed and walked out on the balcony. The sun is fighting to break through the lid of smog that covers the city.

08.55 OK, this morning sure had a great start. I went out of the room to visit the shower room some metres away. In the very same moment a man, he who lives next door, came out from the toilet that is next to the shower. We meet, say good morning and part. As I am about to pass the door to the toilet it opens and out came a woman. She sees me, jump, back off and begin to giggle hysterically. She passes me still giggling and follows the man I just met. They entered their room and went for a shower. It is a nice shower room but I would have been pleasant with some hot water as well.

09.45 I´ve just been and checked for how long the breakfast is served. The answer was that it is served until 11.00. When they claimed it was finished for today. I wondered if they went by New Delhi time or? They just smiled and nodded. I said that I go after Swedish time, which gives me two more hours before closing time.

Peter in the room at King Tut Hostel in Cairo

10.05 There were a knock on the door. We were told that breakfast is ready. They wondered what we wanted to drink and my answer was as clear as the fact that the sun rises. Speaking of rising sun it can be seen now as the smog layer has thinned out.

10.11 The good news, we got hot water. The bad news, the water almost scorched Christer.

10.54 It was a simple breakfast today. Three pieces of bread, some marmalade and hot beverage. Now it is time to prepare for today’s trip. Today the goal is the Egyptian museum. We will walk there in five minutes all according to our place business card. It will be interesting to see if this time is accurate.

The Egyptian museum can here be seen in a pink colour.

12.28 To get to the museum was a challenge. A challenge that took more than five minutes. There were people and cars everywhere. To enter went as a charm. No queues at all. Now it is time to walk through history.

12.55 We are sitting on some steps below the giant statue of Amenhotep III with his wife Tiy and their daughters. Here are a lot of things to see and think about. Here it is really warm and humid as well so we better take it slow.

14.12 Just began to walk around some of the things that were found in Tut anch Amons tomb. Here are so many things. Things that are unbelievable.

Interior picture of the museum and Tut anch Amons coffin.

15.32 After the brain had got its share it is time to visit the café to bring something to the body. To have seen Tut anch Amons death mask is something extraordinary. At the museum are so many things that it would take weeks to see them all.

17.09 Well I´ll be damned, what a walk back home! First Christer was captured by a guy who took us to a perfume store. There he and his friend worked. The friend was an expert on perfume. They offered us Bedouin tea and we got smell different kinds of perfume essences. They all got different names and were made from different plants and flowers. One essence was called Doctor Zjivago. Omar Sharif!! Said the expert. You made an essence out of him I asked? Christer bought a small bottle and the expert promised that it was unbreakable. As he squeezed in the cork the neck of the bottle broke of. After this we were led by the guy that took us to the store across the streets of the town. Our short trip across heavy trafficed streets brought us to another store. In a bowl in the store where something that looked like rhubarb, was it time for some snack? It turned out to be papyrus. He took us through the process of making paper out of it. After that he showed us some paintings painted on papyrus. The man himself began to bring down the price for one painting from 80 to 20 pounds. As he reached 20 I made my move and bought it. Our journey home carried on but it was far from over. We met a man who asked about the time, a guy who showed his open wound on his arm and believe it or not, a coin collector. Hey I almost forgot about a guy who wanted to know where we were from. He said that he knew a Swede. A guy who was supposed to be called Tomas, be tall, excellent in English and about to write a book about the Middle East. Mahmoud as his name was, warned us about letting the hostel arrange with a taxi to the pyramids. Further on he let us know about the Islamic Cairo that we should visit during the dark hours. Later he wondered about the price of my painting. He meant that 20 pounds was reasonable. He ended it all with tips about other places in Egypt but he soon took back the tip about Sharm el Sheikh where some bombs just had exploded.

20.49 We are back at the Chinese restaurant Peking. Today we ordered a main dish each. We will see if we order some dessert.

21.17 It was delicious but came in small portions. The place is just one in a chain of restaurants. A chain with its own website, www.peking-restaurants.com

Dinner at Restaurant Peking in Cairo, a calm oasis with great food.

22.07 Before we left the restaurant we were asked to fill in a paper about what we thought of the place. We got up and began to thrust ourselves home along the streets. We got home and went to the lift. No matter how many times we tried the lift still refused to take us to higher ground. The man with a crocked sight that opened the door did so again, pressed a button and of we went. The only difference between the man´s and Christer's pressing was the number on the button. The man choose button 8, our store. Christer chose button 0, the store we already were on.

Friday 5th of August

08.40 I just got in from the balcony. Less smog today so I took the chance to get some tan. Now I will begin to prepare to go to the miracles of Giza. In other words, the Sphinx and the three Pyramids.

11.27 Just had our morning meal, brushed the teeth and put down whatever we might need. We are off to the large square where the buses to the Pyramids pass and hopefully also stop.

12.34 It was hard to find a bus stop where buses to the Pyramids stop. We walked around and soon learned that nothing stops in front of the museum. This the guards made sure. We met a man who tried to fool us that the buses aren’t running during the time for prayer and that this will last for an hour from now. He decided that we should enter a good, government-owned store while we waited. We turned down his offer and he got cranked. We finally halted a taxi and with that we bump our way to this day’s place. I wonder what it will cost us?

Here ends Giza (Cairo). Here begins the desert and the Pyramids.

Peter and others walking in front of the Cheops pyramid.

Peter in a newly bought head cloth.

Christer with the Chefren pyramid in the background. Notice that on top of the pyramid you can see some of the limestone layer that once covered the entire pyramid.

13.54 Sitting by the foot of the pyramid of Chefren and looking towards the pyramid of Cheops. I am stunned. We made some business since we got here. I have bought a head cloth. At first it was a gift, when the guy wanted some foreign money, preferably not coins and I finally gave him some pounds. After that Christer and I bought some mineral water from a young boy. As the deal was closed some policemen came and asked about how much we had paid. They meant that he had charged us way to high and forced the protesting boy to return some money. They called the boy "mafia" and wondered if they might take a picture of us. Sure we said and some photos were taken of us and also one with one of the policemen. After that they wanted some money for it. We opposed to this and went here to sit down. Here comes the policeman and asked us to leave at once. The young boy claims that he needs more money for the water. What shall we do? Speaking of money, the taxi driver wanted 50 pounds each.

The Giza pyramids

The Sphinx

14.46 Now we´ve seen them. The Pyramids are mighty in so many ways. The Sphinx, mighty for sure but smaller then expected and in pretty poor condition. We read somewhere that he suffers from stone cancer; it is eroded from the inside by the ground water. The heat was terrible by the Pyramids but worst were the salesmen. They nagged, begged and carried on. Did we wish to ride a dromedary, OK not now nut maybe later? Did we wish to trade gifts, meaning buying something from them. If we didn't want to buy or trade they gave the stuff to us in exchange for tips. It is a pity that one cant enjoy the atmosphere there is peace and harmony. We are now waiting for the bus back to Cairo. It is +41° in the shadow and I got gravel in my shoes. I guess it is what I can expect. It is after all SANDals.

16.41 Back in our room. Here it is quiet, cool and plenty of soda. What more can a grown man ask for? It feels great to be back in from the street. It also was great to go by bus home. After all it was cheaper, 2 pounds per man. Our attempt to find a short cut brought us to a street with auto shops and other stuff. At least we found a store that sold large, cold bottles of tasty Mirinda soda. It is Friday (holy-day) today so it is calm in the streets.

Peaceful Friday at Talal Harb Street, Cairo.

19.26 We just sat down at the restaurant Alfi Bey. I think I will order stuffed pigeon. Christer will go for mutton. Here comes the waiter. There will be pigeon for me.

20.56 Pigeon was quite Ok, not much meat but it was tasty. Christer is pleased but he misses the rice. The side dish to my pigeon was restaurant-made potato chips. Some parts of Christer's food tasted fish. Was it fish or just fed with it? On our way home we stopped to get something for our bars back home.

22.33 Time to prepare for the BIG packing. It is now that we have to pack so well that everything survives from the check in counter at the Cairo airport to the luggage trail at Kastrup, Copenhagen. It feels strange that within 24 hours from now I will be in the air on my way to Denmark. At least above Germany. Another thing that is strange is the fact that although the heat earlier today now it is only +31°. Might have something to do with the clear sky. I just had this year’s last balcony beer.