Our home in Istanbul, Cordial House Hotel

08.15 Just woke up, still sleepy. There is no rain today. But it seems to be cloudy.

12.49 We gathered our strength. It is time to walk out into the sunny city. Will it be warm, sweating and hordes of annoying persons? Most definitely, yes. Will we get a key of our own? probably not.

14.00 As we were about to leave our hotel for some surfing on the internet Christer decided to clean his sunglasses. As he was about to take some soap the soap dispenser got airborne and flew over his head and landed on the floor. To surf went fine, to get a key failed. New staff today, a guy was sent to the locksmith. The guy soon returned with the message that the locksmiths store was closed. I wondered if he might have failed to open the own door and just went home from it all. The man in the reception said he was so sorry. He offered us free Internet surfing as a compensation for the lost key. We told him that we just had been surfing. The guy was sent up to open our door.

16.19 It is time for dinner. We followed the motto never change a winning combination. I ordered pizza and Christer chose Spaghetti Bolognese.

16.53 Great food here at "Divan". Time to pay for this before we return back home. Will they have a key for us? We are thinking about staying another day here in Istanbul to make up with lost time, due to the raining.

17.45 We got free apple tea after the food. After that we went home. Still no key for us. Another guest also missed her key. Yet another guest had a key but lacked a bed. They gave us an extra key.

18.57 Time to walk the streets again. We decided to visit another mosque.

Sûleymaniye Mosque in Istanbul.

20.50 Back after a visit to the Sûleymaniye mosque. We were forced to pass through parts of the old bazaar to get to the mosque. Lots of people there. They sold almost everything you can imagine. The mosque itself had little to show. We withdraw some money on our way back and also bought breakfast. Our stay here is extended with one day.

22.33 Planning tomorrow. We will walk in and around the Topkapi-palace. Outside it is 24°. I am hoping for a cool night.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul.

Wednesday 6th of July

09.10 It is a cool morning, +22°. I just returned the extra key so they can make a copy. The guy in the reception, same one as the first days, wondered why I had taken the key from the big bunch. I explained and wondered to myself if they don’t communicate with each other here.

Coffe by the Bosphorus

12.14 Sitting having coffee. We have a breathtaking view over the Bosporus. On my left side Europe, on my right side Asia, straight ahead the Bogazici/Bosphorus Bridge. The water is turquoise blue and filled with boats of different size and kind. We are in a "Tea Garden" beyond the Gülhane Park.

View of the Bosphorus.

13.19 Back at the restaurant Gülhane Sark Sofrasi. We just ordered Urfa kebab and Spaghetti Bolognese. We also heard a call to prayer just in time for lunch.

14.19 Great food! Although Christer’s spaghetti was a bit spicy. They offered us baklava after the food; baklava is a really sweet pastry. We are back by the fountain we rested by the other day. During our last visit here we saw some young boys dressed as princes. Were they on their way to a masquerade? Soon time to enter the Topkapi palace.

Peter in front of the Ottoman fountain outside palace Topkapi in Istanbul.

Inside on the Topkapi palace courtyard.

15.42 Sitting on a bench in the sunshine. We are at the end of the third courtyard in the Topkapi palace. Lots of things to see here, beautiful buildings, china, silverware and the sultans (not the emperors) clothes. It is all but depopulated here. People from different countries and cultures. We ended up behind a busload of Koreans on our way in. We have once again seen some dressed up boys. Once again dressed as princes. Can it really be a masquerade? I think it is something else. I seem to remember that the boys are dressed like this after circumcision. But I don’t know for sure.

16.15 We are sitting on a marble balcony above the Tea Garden. Once again we have a view over two continents. Since my last report we have seen some of the prophet Mohammed’s personal belongings. His sword and bow but also a box with some of his hair. All this displayed in the relic room here at the palace. There was also a man reciting the Koran to create the right atmosphere.

Boats on the Bosporus. Here one can sit and watch for hours.

17.05 Back in the room, a room in the need of fresh air. We opened the door wit our own key! The following happened on the way home; Christer too ka picture of a British couple, we reunited with Mustafa/Mick, I met a guy that told us to be careful ”Traffic lights are just for decoration here in Turkey”. It all ended with buying of soda for now and breakfast for, well take a guess.

17.26 I forgot to tell about the following incident. It was an interesting meeting between an eager Turkish citizen and a timid girl from Asia. - Have you been in my store today? - No I haven’t, I am so sorry. That girl will have some problems in this town if she wants to please everyone.

19.17 Back at "Divan". It is time for dinner. It will be grilled meatballs, boiled vegetables, rice and chips. They also offered us a small first dish.

20.55 Back in the café with a Bosporus view. The dinner at Divan ended up at 38 lira ($ 30) for both of us. The small first dish with vegetables and 5-6 different dip cost 12 lira ($ 10). Not a charming waiter. As we had left the diva at Divan a guy came up to us and wanted to give us some postcards. Suddenly he wanted a Swedish bill for the postcards and it wasn’t enough with a 20-crown bill ($ 2.70). He wanted at least twice as much. This was just too much for us and although he offered to through in a guidebook we still took a quick goodbye. Here at the café we just got ”Tea for two”. It was served in two kettles on top of each other, in the upper strong tea, in the lower hot water. Mix as you please.

21.55 Back home for evening shower, gathering of belongings plans for tomorrow and sleep.

22.33 We carry on packing. I got some washed clothes and the towel out on the open yard. Tonight’s temperature is +25°. Back to the packing.

Evening visit in our "Tea garden" by the Bosporus.

Thursday 7th of July

07.09 A sound we haven’t heard for while just broke the silence. My cell phone’s wake up call sounded. Time for breakfast.

08.05 Breakfast eaten. Packing almost done. Soon we will head for the reception, go by a taxi to the bus station and go by bus to Izmir in Asia.

The huge bus station in Esenler, Istanbul.

10.00 We´re leaving the Esenler bus station in northern Istanbul. Here one can find 168 different ticket offices and even more bus companies. We got here by taxi, driven by a man from the former Yugoslavia. At first we thought that we forgot my ticket at the office counter. I tried to find my way back, not so easy with all the exits/entrances on the bus station building, a salesman followed me back and showed me that my ticket was tucked in behind Christer's ticket and so we could mount the bus. The big trip has just begun.

10.33 Just drove over the Bosphorus, but not over the bridge we saw yesterday. Our travelling has taken us to Asia.

10.58 We are still in Istanbul. Just got to Harem, the bus station Harem that is. We are standing still since the last 5-10 minutes among other buses by the water. Lots of ferries here. What are we waiting for?

11.53 We waited for other passengers and left as soon as they embarked. Soon after that the bus host served us. First he brought us mineral water then coffee and cake, on top of that some ice cream in a cup and now we are being entertained. There is an argument between our driver and a man from another company. We are riding with Metro. The companies name can be seen on the cake wrapping, the plastic around the instant coffee and on the finger wipe cloth.

12.25 Once again we are standing still in an area with ferries. Waiting to drive aboard one of them. It soon gets warm without the air condition. The doors to the baggage area are open. Are they letting in fresh air for someone sleeping there?

12.29 Onboard the ferry with the air condition switched on again. It will be a short trip across the eastern parts of Lake Marmara.

With ferry across the Marmara Sea near Gebze.

13.09 Time to roll ashore. We been out on the deck and among other things seen fishes and jellyfishes (in the water that is). As we embarked again we saw a man that lay sleeping in a small room under the seats. Perhaps it was for him that they brought in fresh air. We are in Topuclar. It is movie time, "Gora".

13.27 An odd movie to say the least.

13.45 On our way towards Bursa driving through a hilly landscape.

14.10 The movie suddenly ended. At the horizon is a snow peaked mountain, Uludag.

15.02 We been on the road for five hours. How much time is left?

16.34 Just had a short stop in a place owned by the company Metro. We bought some chocolate that we had to eat fast to avoid it from melting in the hot sun.

Christer on the hot stop somewhere between Bursa and Balikesir.

18.53 Just reached Akhisar after a stop in Balikesir. Rounded hills/mountains to the left. I am getting fed up with this travelling.

20.24 At last we got to the bus station in Izmir. We are currently on the local bus towards the centre. I hope we will get there without any problems and that we find a place to stay real quick. There was some odd stuff around buying the bus ticket. Christer went to a small kiosk and paid some money. The man there gave him a ticket with something written on it. This ticket wasn’t valid on the bus and he had to pay again. What did he buy from the man in the kiosk? Bus information or?

21.52 We saw one of the hotels we had planed to stay in and got off the bus. We soon found out that it wasn’t the "Hotel Baylan" we thought it was. There are apparently at least two of them in Izmir. We were lost say least and tried to locate us from a river and some railroad track. On top of all, the darkness had fallen. A local gentleman offered us ecstasy and hashish, we sad thanks but no thanks and he was gone. On the other side of the street was a police car. We followed in the bus wheel prints, reached Centrum, waltzed around and found Hotel Alican. The first room want cleaned and we are right now in the room next to it. Christer just had a confusing conversation in English on the room telephone. There were words like ”Leave room” and ”Carry bed”. This might be connected to the fact that we only might stay one night, lots of people are supposed to check in tomorrow. We might not have a room for two nights but we got breakfast for tomorrow. Here as in Istanbul are there lots of people offering all kinds of stuff. We also have seen some people playing music and with them came some newly weds.

23.17 Around 22.25 the call to prayer could be heard. We went out on the balcony to listen. Suddenly ALL light on the hill opposite to us went black, the call for prayer silenced and it got pitch black in the room. Now the power is back and it is time for shower and clothes washing. We are staying here for 30 lira ($ 24) each. This was also the day when we watched terrible pictures on the TV news. Terrorists had hit London with suicide attacks.

Friday 8th of July

07.17 Just woke up. It is nice and cool in the room. I guess that the air condition is necessary in these parts of the world. Soon we will know if we can stay another night. Today is the day that we head for Ephesus, an old town from Greek and Roman time.

07.57 Just came out from the shower, sitting on the side of the bed looking out of the window. It is quite a view.

Views from Hotel Alican in Izmir.

08.20 Soon we´ll head for breakfast. Do they have great coffee here in Asia? After that we must check with the reception if we can stay. It would be nice to get an answer since we plan to get to Ephesus as fast and smooth as possible.

09.01 Back with answer. I guess the coffee is OK. Don’t know for sure, they offered us tea. About the room. At first we could change room at half past half past eleven (I wonder when that is?), or what ever she said. After that came the final decision, it is a full house. We have no room and are forced to change hotel.

10.00 Just checked out from Alican. Time to get into the great wild open.

10.09 We are now in room 309 at "Hotel Nil" neighbouring the old hotel. Here the room cost 22.5 lira ($ 18)/night/traveller. This must be the fastest regrouping we´ve ever made. It is about 3 metres between the two hotels.

10.52 Time to make it like the tree and leave. Out there we have to find a bus stop, go with bus 54 or 64 to the bus station, get off there, get the bus to Ephesus and when we see what happens.

11.44 At the bus station. We might get something to eat before we get on the bus to Ephesus. Just hope our stomachs will make it. This heat, above +30 C, sure tares on the system.

12.04 On the bus to Selcuk. It will leave soon. We have still haven’t paid for the trip but I guess we will soon. From Selcuk we will walk to Ephesus.

12.47 On our way! We just got some perfumed water on our hands. A form of finger wipe clothe, without the cloth that is. The man that came with the water wanted 5 liras. For the ride that is.

13.28 Here its dry, here its hilly, here is soon Selcuk.

13.50 Sitting down under some trees. Making plans for our walk towards Ephesus. I guess we have something to eat before we walk.

Selcuk

14.25 Tome for some solid food. Adana kebab and spaghetti not mixed that is but serves separately. Today I did a good deed. I showed a couple how the ATM works.

15.02 Time for espresso and apple tea here at Selcuk Café Restaurant. It is a really nice place. Run by a man that has his son as an apprentice!? The son set the tables, brings the food and shows the customers to the toilet. The father just smiles and prepares the food. Nothing to do for the Holy Ghost.

Lunch/dinner at Selcuk Café Restaurant.

15.43 We can’t walk out to Ephesus. Hardly any place for people to walk by the side of the road and way to hot. We will take a taxi.

16.31 Sitting in the middle of the amazing Ephesus. So much to see, so fascinating, so many cigarette buts. Why must these smokers be everywhere?

Ephesus

16.50 resting in the Celsus library. Sitting and drink newly bought mineral water. It is a HOT day, +34°.

17.16 Resting on some old stones, (are there young stones?). We have a breathtaking view over the theatre here. I´ve just been at the upper rows of the theatre I could hear people talking down on the stage as I stood there. Talk about perfect acoustic! I guess we will go back to Selcuk by taxi.

Hot days like this it´s easy to lose your head.

Greek writing in Ephesus.

Celsus library.

The Roman theatre in Ephesus (from around 100 AD).

17.22 We had hardly left the area before the offers came raining over us. A young boy that we bought sodas from also offered to sell postcards and other things for instance a DVD about Ephesus and Turkey. Another gentleman offered to sell us antique coins. The ones he showed us sure didn't look antique.

17.38 We went back in a taxi, an old Chevrolet Impala. I think I caught a glimpse of the only remaining pillar of the Artemis temple, one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

17.59 Onboard the bus which will leave for Izmir within 20 minutes. It has been a wonderful day.

18.30 One must get impressed by our bus host. He began standing at the bus station in Selcuk crying out ”Garaj Izmir”. This to tell where the bus was going. As soon as the bus stops along the way it is time for him to get out and help the passengers get onboard with bodies and baggage. Here in Turkey the smaller buses runs around in towns in search for passengers before they head away.

19.49 Just reached Izmir and we wait for the bus back to our home. Many buses come, stop and leave. Still no bus 64.

21.14 At last it arrived, bus 64 and it took us to where we wanted. At the hotel we received the news that breakfast isn’t included. After that news it was time for dinner at the restaurant part of our former hotel. No kebab for me today. I chose steak. We just got back to the room to rest, shower and wash the clothes.