07.20 I´m sitting on the side of bed draped in my top sheet. It has served as towel today. In two hours and forty minutes our bus will leave. Before that we have to dry up, get dressed, eat breakfast, smell nicer, pack, check out and leave.

08.44 Decent breakfast, bread, soft cheese, marmalade, black olives, peaches, hummus and egg. To this we had hot tea. Now it is time to brush teeth and a short rest before departure. Our bus leaves at 10.00

09.38 After a brisk/sweating walk to the bus station we entered our bus company’s office. There sat a young lady and looked at us before she made a phone call. We sat down to await our bus. Soon a man came and took us across the station area and into another of our companies offices. Tickets were handed out and we walked on to the bus. We had barely loaded the backpacks before the bus started. It stopped and we got onboard it. So now at 09.41 we are on our way. A man has written down something and another man has collected our tickets. Is this an early bus? Is it going to Damascus?

10.10 A road sign just said that Aleppo says thanks for visiting.

11.22 Brown fields, green crops, conifers, one and two storage brick/concrete houses and signs with Latin and Arabic letters aligns our road. Some of the signs mention Damascus. I guess we are on the right way. It was an early bus.

11.45 Just had a short stop for on and off goers. We are somewhere....

12.17 We just stopped again just south of Homs and the highway to Lebanon. The windshield of the bus is being washed.

12.29 The trip has so far been nothing but pleasant. The bus host has served us water. But now all I want is to travel on. Hey my wish came true, we are leaving.

12.56 In the front we can see a dry landscape with a few planted trees. In the background, a soft, curvy, brown mountain. The trees are all pointing in one direction, probably caused by the wind.

13.32 We are going through a little valley with surrounding high hills of stone and sand in lairs.

13.56 We are now going in a covered bus. The host has after gathering the empty water mugs, pulled the shades. Now it will be even harder to locate where we are.

14.54 Resting in the hotel reception of Al Majed Hotel in Damascus waiting to check in. We came here in a taxi after we made a deal about the price ($10). But as we got here the driver said he wanted $10 from both of us. This led to an argument from me about it. He folded and our backpacks got carried inside.

This sign in the hotel room in Damascus shows which way the guests shall look at as they pray.

14.35 We are now in room 116 at Hotel Al Majed. Staying cost 2250 pounds for two nights. It makes 1125/night/person or $21. Our room is equipped with bathroom with tub, air condition, refrigerator, closet, mirror, beds and a sign showing the direction to Mecca.

17.53 We decided that a shower and a rest were needed after that trip. We have also looked in the guidebook to find possible restaurants and also found a couple of alternatives. It will be fun to see if they exist in real life as well.

Syria’s president, Bashar Al-Assad, on page 1 in the phonebook.

18.45 Sitting down at the restaurant ”Al Kamal” close to our hotel. We have each ordered different first course and main course. It is a bright place with large windows facing the street.

20.13 We just came back again after the meal of the year. The first course was onion soup with bread and cheese for me and chicken soup for Christer. Then came the big loads. I was served 2 filet mignon, chips, fried rice ball, peas and carrots. Enormous Gordon Bleu a’la Kamal, that is 2 pieces of meat with fillet of chicken in between and covered in cheese, plus the same side dish as I got for Christer. His dish looked more like a cake as they carried it in. It was impossible to eat it all. Can anyone eat all of this? The price for this feast including tip ended up at $12.4 for both of us. The waiter wondered if Christer wished to change his dish since he hadn’t been able to eat it all. The men in the hotel reception have informed us that this hotel serves breakfast at any time of the day. I don’t need food now, I need to rest.

22.20 We just returned to the world of lights. Ten minutes ago we had a power failure. No light, no news on the TV and they were in English. All things are back to normal. I might as well go and brush my teeth.

Peter in the room at Hotel Al-Majed in Damascus.

Friday 22nd of July

09.07 I am after a nice sleep and a refreshing shower sitting under the ceiling fan and gets dry. Next is breakfast.

10.33 We had breakfast outside today. Out in the hotel´s garden restaurant. Coffee/tea, freshly baked, large croissants, marmalade and fresh orange juice. Now it is time to fill up the water supply.

The famous Umayyad-mosque in old Damascus.

11.21 We managed to see some stuff since I last put the pencil in the diary. All is calm and peaceful since it is Friday, little traffic and few people around. We strolled towards the old parts of the city. Here we have walked through the enormous souq where everything was for sale. The light shine in through tiny holes in the ceiling high above. A lot to buy but nothing that caught our eyes. Most of the stands were importunely closed since it is Friday, the Muslim day of rest. As we left the souq we found a souvenir shop. We didn't find any souvenirs that we wanted to buy but we found postcards and stamps. Now it is time to carry on our trip through the older parts of what might be the oldest yet inhabited town in the world.

A stroll near the Citadel in Damascus older parts.

11.57 We just sat down for a short rest in a serving place near a fountain here in the older parts. Just ordered a pint of freshly squeezed orange juice. We have so far been able to take some pictures of the older parts.

In this square we drank fresh orange juice with ice. The ice led to that we had more visits to Syrian toilets then we had planned for. Excellent but expensive juice..

12.41 Gaining power in the hotel reception with a 1.5 litres water bottle each. We are sitting in zebrastriped armchairs and watch a TV program from the Great Mosque in Mecca. The way home from the older parts went through another area then we walked there. It took us to more people selling more things. A man just leaned over me and greeted us with ”Salaam Aleikum”.

14.07 We feel a little dull but have been able to write postcards. What will we do next? Rest, sit in the sun or what? As the Friday’s afternoon prayer started it was a magnificent feeling to hear long calls for prayer from many different mosques of different ages in the city’s centre

14.53 Thinking about how we shall spend the rest of the day. It is not as we are used to from earlier years as it comes to this part of the world. Here we don’t have that many supermarkets to just walk into and buy something. We also wonder how much more pounds will be spent. What will everything cost?

The Martyrs Square in Damascus centre.

16.22 We walked around in our neighbourhood and bought some snacks, soda and crackers/candy that we ate at once. After that we went searching for an ATM with a VISA symbol. The only ATM we found was occupied by Saudis who as it seemed just stood there. As they left we found out that the ATM was closed. Was that the reason why they just stood there or had they drained it of all its money? No matter what we carried on with a happy face and soon found another money machine. Our trip ended with us buying beverage for the trip tomorrow. Out there it blows warm winds, +36° and there are just a few people. It is a nice climate in Damascus; real warm but dry air and smooth winds that makes it all real nice.

17.48 It is time to start to remember names for tomorrow. The first name to remember is ”Charles Helou” that is one of Beirut’s bus stations. The other name is ”Al-Nazih” a possible place to stay at.

On our way from centre towards "our blocks" in a modern part of Damascus.

18.59 It is time to go out and have dinner. Will it be the same as yesterday or something new? Will the dish be of similar size or of smaller?

19.45 We will have dinner here at the hotel. Sitting by the same table as this morning, at the hotel restaurant. I have ordered kabsa (lamb and rice). Christer has ordered Indian kebab with rice. I wonder what might be in the Indian kebab?

20.57 Home after payment and tip at a total of 800 pounds. I got tasty spiced rice and boiled lamb meat. Christer got a ”standard” kebab (rolls of minced meat). Whatever it was, it was delicious. We were guarded during the meal by a hungry cat. Before we paid we saw some nice things. A taxi stopped, out got a ”classic” Arab with a garment that reached to his feet and a cloth on his head. Just as he was about to grab his bag from the trunk the taxi left and the Arab nicely followed. Suddenly the taxi came back and soon a man followed with the Arabs bag and after that the Arab as well. Another scene were the gentlemen from the two Saudi families that came in a NICE car. One carried an infant while the other prepared food in a nursing bottle. Before our return to the room we bought some soda in a small store. We seem to have gotten some discount. Our sodas got cheaper.

22.33 Time for a classic thing. Tonight outdoor temperature is 30°.

Saturday 23rd of July

09.20 Have woken up, showered and packed. What remains is to eat breakfast and check out. After that comes the next challenge, to get to Lebanon.

10.32 Back in the room again after a breakfast similar to one yesterday. We are making the last plan for the journey to the west.

12.14 We took a taxi from the hotel. The taxi driver wondered if we planned to go by bus or car to Beirut. The bus leaves at 14.00 and car would be faster. He pointed at a taxi with plates from Lebanon, got out and soon the deal was closed. We went with him for a little while and then changed vehicles. Now we are rolling first of all towards the border.

12.46 We stopped to fill up with petrol. Today we go with Mouhammad Najid Younes in a Mercedes with number 377827 M.

LEBANON

13.30 We are now in Lebanon. To arrange with the visa worked like a charm all thanks to Mouhammad, our taxi driver aged around 65. They wanted us to pay in Lebanese livres (lire) so we went to exchange. It went well for Christer to exchange and as it was my turn the exchanger looked at me and asked ”French?” No I said, I am from Sweden. The man smiled and explained that he had wondered if I wanted French currency. I told him that I would prefer Lebanese. This was arranged and we could pay for our visas. Now we roll on towards Beirut.

13.58 We keep climbing. It is getting cloudier and cooler on our westernbound trip. Suddenly we have entered a cloudbank and it got cold in here. I might add that air condition today is then the driver opens the windows and let the air pass in through the open windows. This leading to a feeling that the head is about to come off the body. It is great as long as it is warm but the face feels strange afterwards.

15.01 Our jolly driver wanted to stop at the first hotel that appeared in the central parts of Beirut. We mentioned that we wanted to go to Charles Helou´s bus station. The journey carried on with a less joyful driver.

Beirut. Avenue Charles Helou, view from our hotel window.

15.20 The taxi stopped, we paid, got out, took or belongings, said bye and walked towards the Charles Helou avenue. At first we went to the hostel Al Nazih. The only room that they had to offer was a room that we would have to share with others. We walked to the nearby Talal’s New Hotel instead. I went up to the reception and checked if there were rooms, and so they did. Down the stairs to get Christer and my backpack.... up the stairs and into room number 3. Here we stay for $9 per night and Swede. The place can be reached at [email protected]

A picture that shows the new part of the city that is growing up from the ruins of Beirut’s bombed centre.

18.02 On our way to take out money and bring in food, that is to eat dinner. We´ve just taken aim at Rue Gouraud, a street just nearby. It has got an ATM and restaurants. It also would be great if it had a grocery store.

18.31 To find an ATM went smooth and then we ran out of luck. We are heading for other areas of the town to find food.

A recently built mosque in Beirut

19.13 We went to the central parts of Beirut, passed a mosque and St Georges cathedral, turned right down Rue de Parliament and found "Siesta Inn, the European food place". We have decided for Spaghetti Bolognese. Not so much Lebanese but still food. The waitress was curious about our origin. As we told her that we were from Sweden she answered that her boss was Sweden and left. We guess that she meant that her boss was from Sweden.

The journal writer in progress at "Siesta Inn" in Beirut. Little did he know what was about to happen.

19.22 We just met the boss, a man from Tranås in Sweden. He had left Lebanon at the age of thirteen and returned 18 years later. He started this restaurant upon his return. But he missed the law and order from Sweden. He spoke with one of the waiters and told him treat us in a special way. Our cheerful waitress returned and said ever so merry that she had some typical Swedish and Danish dishes. I looked at the menu and it was true. She smiled at us and ended up with saying ”I got chicken breasts”. We looked at her and both thought that her breasts looked quit normal. I guess that she once again with I referred to the restaurant and its menu.

Place d´Etoile, central part in newly built block with many restaurants.

19.52 Our plates were brought out after the meal and new ones has arrived. To the spaghetti we got mineral water, Pepsi Cola, vegetables and bread with melted cheese.

20.15 That special thing just arrived, a huge plate with fruit. There are cherries, apples, orange slices, grapes, peaches, pineapple slices, honey melon and some others. What will happen next? Before the fruit we also had a couple of free first dishes. Our table neighbours smoke water pipe and looks jealously at all our fruit and us.

21.16 What remained was to ask for the bill. We paid for the water, the Pepsi Cola and the spaghetti. The rest was on the house. Around us as we dined were a man with moustaches at a length between 0.5 – 1 meter. The winner was a man that wasn’t able to sit in a chair with armrests. He was too wide around the hips. My guess is that his weight is around 150 kilo or more. On our way home we saw some newly weds coming out of St George´s cathedral.

Peter sneaking home in the Lebanese dusk.

Sunday 24th of July

08.23 A new day has dawned. We just got out of our beds and yawned. Today we will see more of the city, get a bus ticket back to Damascus, take some pictures, rest on benches, write postcards and probably something else.

Mixed kind of buildings on Rue Gouraud in Beirut.

11.30 We walked around in our neighbourhood. There we found lots of closed stores. We met a lady who pointed up a long stair and said something in French that sounded like "St. Nicholas church". After her came a guy that murmured something in French. I told him, in French, that I spoke English and not French. Postcards have been bought and our walk ended up with finding a small grocery shop and in that shop we bought our brunch.

13.48 We gathered strength and I have quenched my coffee thirst. Soon we will return out in the city life. We hope for a little more life out there but who knows.

Peace and quiet on a Beirut Sunday.

On our way to the beach walk we saw this balloon and in the picture
you can also see the remains of the Holiday Inn-hotel, damaged in the civil war.

14.51 We are back by the blue Mediterranean. Just began to walk along the corniche, Beirut’s famous long beach walk. It is hot today but a nice wind comes in from the sea. A little earlier we visited a souvenir shop and there we met the owner. A cheerful man that told us that he met Swedish UN-soldiers in his shop. We also saw a sealed off street with what seemed to be cars that have been blown up. The police blockings seemed new. We know that car bomb recently exploded here in town but we don’t know if this is the remains from that explosion or not. That street was situated between some nice hotels and the sea.

15.31 We just walked back and we´ve seen people swimming, fished, got a tan, jogged and sold different things. As of now we are outside the Bayview hotel and Hard Rock café.

The famous corniche, the beach walks in Beirut.

Several Lebanese flags can be seen in this sea view.

16.32 We went back to the hotel, returned to our little shop to buy us some beer to enjoy as evening falls.

17.46 We are not alone in the room. There are ants around Christer’s bed. Under the bed is a coin that used to be on the washing powder jar.

19.52 The coin was found and returned to its place. That was great because we are about to get out and eat. We will not return to that “Swedish” place but most likely to one near it. In the new area of the town is the competition rough and prices OK; otherwise is it quite expensive to dine in Beirut.

20.37 We just seated ourselves at Coyote’s. A newly opened Mexican-Lebanese restaurant at Rue de Parliament. This area is rebuilt after the civil war in the 1970:s. In the heart of it is Place d’Etoile with its bell tower. We have ordered Lebanese shish kebab with extras.

21.25 Tea and coffee just arrived. Around us we hear call for prayer, see people smoking water pipes and see a new kind of occupation walk around, ”Glow man”. It is he who takes care of the glow in the water pipe. He puts a piece of glowing coal in the pipe and changes it as it fades. A crashing sound of broken china could just be heard. This led to spontaneous/sarcastic applauds from the people around here.

Christer seems ever so happy as he finally got his dinner.

22.18 Back in our room and soon we will go out on the balcony for a classic evening beer. Before we left the restaurant more things were dropped in other places causing more applauds. As it was time to pay it took time for them to get there and to bring the change. This led to them not receiving any tip. The heat wares the body out and the worst thing is to cross the streets. If you stays at the side of the road a taxi soon pulls up and offers you a ride, to start walking out in the street is like playing the lottery with life at the stake. The traffic is not so hectic now as it is evening. Our sink produces a frightening sound. As the water pours out it sounds like someone is burping loudly. Earlier today as Christer was doing his laundry he jumped up because of the sound. He knew that I couldn’t have made it because I was on my hunt for coffee in other parts of the hotel.